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DATE  RET 
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°ATE  RET 
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[OCT  1  5  201 

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Form  No,  513. 
Rev.  1/84 

^NSEVOORT  -  LANSING 
COLLECTION 


D 

igitized  by 

the  Internet 

Archive 

in  2014 

https://archive.org/details/inbamboolandsOObaxt 


A  GROVE  OF  BAMBOO. 


I  $4  5" 

IN  BAH  BOO  LANDS 


BY 

KATHARINE  SCHUYLER  BAXTER 


New  York 
THE  MERRIAM  COMPANY 
67  EirTH  Avenue 


Copyright  1895 

BY 

KATHARINE  SCHUYLER  BAXTER 


XLo  the  public, 
If  OeDicate  tbe  simple  trutb. 


PREEACE. 

The  Empire  of  Japan  has  long  been  an  object  of  interest  to 
he  Western  world.  A  generous  destiny  enabled  me  to  visitt 
those  attractive  islands  and  to  gain  an  insight  not  only  into  the 
delightful  customs  of  the  great  common  people,  but  into  the 
arts  and  the  industries,  and  into  the  beautiful  and  touching 
worship  of  ancestors  as  well.  In  the  following  simple  and  im- 
partial recital  of  what  I  saw  and  did  in  the  course  of  a  pleasur- 
able tour,  I  have  endeavored  not  to  increase  the  bulk  of  the 
volume  by  extraneous  digression  or  by  my  own  reflections. 
Those  who  are  interested  in  Japanese  art  will  find  brief  de- 
scriptions of  the  manufacture  of  pottery,  damascene,  cloisonne, 
and  lacquer.  The  illustrations  are  reproductions  of  pictures 
gathered  during  my  travels.  I  desire  to  acknowledge  my  in- 
debtedness to  Dr.  J.  J.  Rein,  to  the  columns  of  The  Japan 
Mail,  and  for  invaluable  assistance  derived  from  the  works  of 
the  distinguished  author,  Mr.  B.  H.  Chamberlain,  of  Tokyo. 
That  this  unpretentious  chronicle  may  prove  as  enjoyable  to 
the  reader  as  did  the  journey  through  Dai  Nippon  to  the  tourist 
is  the  earnest  wish  of  the 

Author. 


5 


CONTENTS. 

PAGE 

CHAPTER  I. 

The  Queen's  Highway,        .       .       .  13 

CHAPTER  II. 

Around  Tokyo  Bay  36 

CHAPTER  III. 

NlKKO  AND  THE  NORTH,  .84 

CHAPTER  IV. 

T6ky5,  .       .       .  ■  .       .       .       .       .  .       .  139 

CHAPTER  V. 

The  T5kaid5,  205 

CHAPTER  VI. 

Kyoto  238 

CHAPTER  VII. 

Mutsuhito  and  Haruko,  345 

CHAPTER  VIII. 

The  Inland  Sea,  360 

Glossary  of  Japanese  Words,      ........  379 


7 


LIST  OP  ILLUSTRATIONS. 


Page 

A  Grove  of  Bamboo,  Frontispiece 

The  Valley  of  the  Bow,   17 

Lake  Agnes,  8,000  feet  above  sea-level,         ......  20 

"Sir  Donald"  and  the  Great  Glacier  of  the  Selkirks,     .  .  .23 

The  Loops,      .  24 

Illicilliwaet  River  and  Hermit  Range,  Selkirk  Mountains,  .  .  .25 
Fraser  River  at  Yale,      ..........  28 

Yokohama  Bay  from  "The  Bluff,"   .37 

A  Kuruma  41 

Blind  Shampooer,   43 

The  One  Hundred  Steps,       .........  44 

Tea-House,  47 

Pilgrims  to  Fujiyama  51 

A  Dashi  or  Religious  Car,  -53 

Mississippi  Bay,  =57 

Daibutsu   .  61 

Enoshima,        .   65 

Shrine  of  Yoritomo,  67 

A  Fan,  68 

Motomachi   .  .  .69 

The  Grand  Avenue,  73 

The  Bronze  Bell,      .   77 

A  Daikon  Vender,   .       .  79 

The  Torii  and  Pagoda,  Si 

Bronze  Lanterns,   .  -85 

Holy  Water  Cistern  89 

Gifts  to  " Old  Japan,"  93 

Yomeimon  Gate,       ,   97 

Gate  of  the  Chapel  of  Ieyasu,  101 

Moss-grown  Steps  to  the  Tomb  of  Ieyasu  105 

9 


Xist  of  Illustration*. 

Page 

Tomb  of  Ieyasu  109 

Yashamon  Gate,  Iemitsu,        .       .       .       .       .       .       .       .       .  113 

Sacred  Images  of  Amida,  117 

Lake  Chuzenji,         .       ,       .       .       .  -    .       .       .       .       .  .119 

A  Kago,  121 

A  Cascade,  125 

Salutation,        ............  127 

Yumoto  Lake,   129 

Ainos  of  Yezo  131 

Japanese  Junk,  132 

Yumoto  Springs,      .       .       .       .       .       .     -  .       .       .       .       .  133 

A  Japanese  House  Boat,  137 

The  Fire  Department  141 

Shiba.    Gateway  No.  1,  145 

Shiba,    .  147 

Koto,  ■   150 

Koto,  150 

Gekkin,     .............  152 

Samisen,  153 

Interior  of  Japanese  House  154 

Dwarf  Trees  155 

Japanese  Musicians,  .       .       .       .       .       .       .       .  .160 

Dancing  Girls,  162 

Official  Harakiri,  165 

Temple  of  Kameido,       ..........  168 

Wistaria,  .   .  .170 

The  Lotus  Pond,  Ueno  Park,  172 

Daibutsu,  Ueno,  175 

Residence  of  Count  Ookuma   179 

Street  Decorations,   183 

Game  of  Sai   184 

The  Sumida  River,  near  Tokyo  185 

Wrestling,       .       .       .       .   .  190 

Botanic  Gardens,  191 

A  Warrior  in  Full  Uniform,  193 

Daibutsu,  Asakasa,  199 

The  Bell  Temple  at  Asakasa,  202 

On  the  Road  to  Miyanoshita,         .........  207 

10 


%ist  of  Illustrations, 


Page 

Dogashima,  near  Miyanoshita,       ........  209 

Fujiyama,  211 

The  Fishing  Industry  215 

Rice  Fields,     .  219 

Sifting  Rice,  223 

Golden  Dolphin   227 

Gifu  in  Ruins,   231 

Temple  of  Chion-in,   241 

Waking  up  the  Gods,   243 

The  Great  Bell,       .       .   .  .247 

Ancient  Coin,         .       .  249 

San-ju-san-gen-do,  .       .       .  '     .  ,  .251 

Nishi  Otani,  256 

Megane-bashi,  257 

Kurodani,        ............  259 

A  Wedding  Ceremony   263 

Kiyomizu-dera,   267 

Wash-Day,   270 

Buddhist  Priests,   273 

Shinto  Priest  275 

Tea-House,   279 

Tea  Harvest,    .  .281 

The  Palace  of  the  Mikado,  285 

Street  in  Kyoto,   .  289 

Bamboo  Ware  for  Sale,  .       .       .       .       .       .       .       .      .  .       .  291 

Pine  Tree  at  Karasaki,  295 

A  Shop,   303 

A  Family  Dinner-Party,         .........  307 

Golden  Pavilion,  Kinkakuji   309 

A  Pine-Tree  Trained  in  the  Form  of  a  Junk,  313 

A  Farmer,   .       .       .       .  .  317 

A  Geisha,  322 

A  Hand-Loom,   326 

Inari,   ....  329 

A  Theatre,      ............  331 

The  Old  Castle  and  Moat  at  Osaka  335 

Tennoji,  Osaka,  337 

A  Samurai,      .       .  .       .  345 

1 1 


%ist  of  miustrations* 


Page 


A  View  of  Castle,  and  Nijiubashi,  347 

The  Palace,   .       .  349 

The  Emperor,         .  .  .       .       .  352 

A  Flower-Vender,   353 

The  Empress,  .       .       .  .       .       .       .       .       .       .       .  355 

A  Shinto  Shrine,  Kobe,   357 

The  Inland  Sea,  361 

Miyajima,  the  Great  Torii   .  365 

Nagasaki,        ............  369 

A  Buddhist  Temple  372 

On  the  Road  to  Moji   373 

Wrestlers,        .       .       .       .       .       .       .       .       .       .       .       .  376 

12 


IN   BAMBOO  LANDS. 


CHAPTER  I. 

THE  QUEEN'S  HIGHWAY. 

To  travel  widely  abroad  is  an  education  in  itself — it  teaches 
a  cosmopolitanism  that  one  can  never  learn  from  books.  To 
see  ancient  civilizations,  other  types  of  humanity,  and  other 
variations  of  scenery,  is  a  source  of  such  endless  delight  that 
when  an  urgent  request  came  from  friends  to  join  them  in 
Yokohama  I  made  hurried  preparations  and  started  at  once. 

The  train  that  bore  me  westward  left  the  station  at  Montreal 
one  sultry  evening  in  August.  I  was  fortunate  at  the  outset 
in  making  the  acquaintance  of  a  gentleman  and  his  wife  who 
had  started  on  their  fourth  tour  of  the  world.  They  proved  to 
be  most  agreeable  fellow-travellers.  As  they  had  been  careful 
not  to  have  the  stamps  removed,  their  baggage  was  a  curiosity, 
and  nearly  every  place  of  importance  on  the  globe  was  repre- 
sented. The  following  day  we  travelled  through  a  grim, 
dreary  region.  At  one  time  in  the  geological  history  of  Amer- 
ica the  land  was  covered  with  ice,  and  marks  of  the  glacial 
period  can  still  be  observed  on  the  rock-strewn  soil.  Pine  trees 
sharply  outlined  against  the  sky  towered  above  us,  their  naked 

13 


1Tn  JSamboo  Xanbs, 


trunks  scarred  by  forest  fires.  The  scant  undergrowth  added 
to  the  general  desolation.  The  second  morning  the  scenery- 
had  entirely  changed.  As  our  train  approached  Lake  Supe- 
rior, the  dense  forest  was  broken  here  and  there,  affording  us 
glimpses  of  its  rocky  headlands  and  deep-blue  waters. 

We  made  a  short  stop  at  Port  William,  an  old  trading-post 
of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  now  a  depot  of  supplies  and  a 
shipping-point  of  the  Canadian  Pacific  Railway.  The  aban- 
doned boats  used  by  Sir  Garnet  Wolseley,  in  his  expedition 
against  the  Riel  Rebellion  in  1870,  could  still  be  seen  while 
crossing  Eagle  River.  They  were  fast  falling  to  decay,  and 
looked  strangely  out  of  place  in  that  wild  and  rugged  country. 
All  through  this  region  the  streams  abound  in  fish,  and  ber- 
ries grew  in  abundance  beside  the  way.  It  made  our  hearts 
ache  with  envy  to  view  the  rivers  with  no  time  to  fish  them, 
but  at  every  little  stopping-place  the  passengers  rushed  forth 
en  masse  to  gather  the  luscious  blackberries — merry  scenes  in 
which  tourists,  emigrants,  and  backwoodsmen  mingled  in  pic- 
turesque groups. 

We  came  upon  the  Lake  of  the  Woods,  a  fine  sheet  of  water 
of  indescribable  beauty  and  loneliness.  Pine-covered  islands 
dot  the  surface  and  wooded  promontories  jut  far  out  into  the 
dark  water,  and,  except  for  a  few  wild-fowl,  I  did  not  see  a 
sign  of  life. 

Gradually  we  left  the  timber  belt  behind,  as  we  neared  Win- 
nipeg and  the  fertile  region  of  the  Red  River.  Here  a  new 
country  begins,  and  we  were  soon  in  the  great  wheat-fields  of 
the  Northwest.     Winnipeg  is  now  a  thriving  city  of  many 

14 


Ube  Queen's  Ibigbwap, 


handsome  buildings,  and  is  lighted  by  electricity.  We  walked 
up  the  main  street  to  the  site  of  old  Fort  Garry,  of  which  noth- 
ing remained  to  indicate  the  spot  but  the  ruined  gateway. 
The  Hudson's  Bay  Company  have  in  recent  years  removed 
their  interests  from  the  fort  to  a  fine  large  store,  where  they 
conduct  a  flourishing  business  in  every  article  but  pelts. 

Four  hundred  miles  farther  on  begin  the  plains  which,  not 
so  many  years  ago,  were  the  feeding-grounds  of  vast  herds  of 
buffalo,  now  almost  extinct.  From  the  car  windows,  we  ob- 
served the  well-defined  trails  made  in  going  to  and  from  their 
watering-places.  These  prairies,  which  extend  to  the  Rockies, 
are  covered  with  an  abundance  of  yellow-brown  grass,  and 
are  unbroken,  except  by  the  lines  of  trees  that  mark  the  water- 
courses. They  are  strewn  with  buffalo  horns,  which  the  In- 
dians collect,  and  the  squaws  polish,  mount,  and  sell  at  all  the 
prairie  stations.  The  Sioux  display  great  ingenuity  in  making 
up  bright-colored  blankets  into  fantastic  costumes,  in  which 
the  braves  with  natural  vanity  pose  against  a  background  of 
station  buildings. 

The  Canadian  Mounted  Police  in  gay  uniforms  are  notice- 
able figures  all  through  the  Northwest.  Attired  in  red  coats 
with  gold  buttons,  high-topped  boots,  and  absurd  little  caps 
held  in  place  by  straps,  they  are  favorite  subjects  for  the 
camera.  Chasing  Indians  and  bringing  them  to  justice  seem 
an  occupation  unworthy  of  so  much  elegance. 

As  our  train  penetrated  the  Rockies,  that  rise  abruptly  from 
the  plain,  the  scenery  steadily  became  grander  until  we  reached 
Banff  Station,  in  the  Canadian  National  Park — a  tract  to  be 

i5 


Un  JSamboo  Xanfcs* 


kept  in  its  present  wild  and  natural  state  for  all  time.  A  drive 
of  three  miles  brought  us  to  Banff  village,  amid  some  of  the 
grandest  scenery  in  America.  The  hotel,  perched  on  an  eleva- 
tion at  the  junction  of  two  lovely  rivers,  is  surrounded  on  all 
sides  by  mountains  from  8,000  to  11,000  feet  high.  From  the 
veranda  a  magnificent  panorama  is  disclosed  of  Tunnel  Moun- 
tain, a  frowning  precipice  with  wooded  base ;  the  lofty  crags 
that  form  the  Twin  Peaks ;  the  Castle  Mountain  range,  covered 
with  perpetual  snow;  while  below  us,  in  the  ravine  thickly 
grown  with  maples  and  evergreens,  the  Bow  River  plunges 
seventy  feet  from  the  rocks  to  unite  with  the  Spray.  There 
are  fine  drives  through  the  valley  and  around  Tunnel  Mountain 
and  bridle-paths  leading  to  Warm  Sulphur  Springs.  Unfinished 
trails  penetrate  the  wildest  forest  and  to  heights  from  which 
grand  views  may  be  obtained. 

In  pre-railroad  days  the  Park  was  a  mysterious,  unexplored 
country,  in  which  wild  game  roamed  undisturbed.  Its  brooks 
and  rivers  are  supplied  with  water-fowl  and  fish.  Except  at 
the  highest  points,  it  is  nearly  covered  with  a  dense  growth  of 
trees  of  the  evergreen  group.  Many  of  the  trees  are  of  great 
size,  and  stand  so  closely  together  that  it  is  difficult  for  a  man 
to  pass  between  them.  Where  the  trees  are  not  so  thick,  the 
undergrowth  seems  determined  to  conquer  everything. 

I  had  read  too  many  old-time  adventures  with  Bruin  to  think 
of  spending  a  week  in  the  lonely  Rockies  without  seeing  a 
grizzly ;  so  I  consulted  a  guide,  who  assured  me  that  wild  ani- 
mals did  haunt  the  remoter  ranges,  but  were  "  never  seen  in 

these  parts."    My  fears  were  set  at  rest.    For  three  days  we 

16 


2 


Uhc  Queen's  frigbwa^ 


scaled  many  a  steep  hilltop,  rambled  through  the  forest,  or  iol- 
lowed  the  course  of  streams  literally  surrounded  by  nature. 
Many  of  these  trails  wander  for  a  mile  or  more  and  then  "  run 
up  a  tree. "  Sometimes  there  was  not  a  trace  of  a  path.  We  saw 
many  varieties  of  plumage  and  song  birds,  and  occasionally 
an  eagle  would  swoop  down  from  the  top  of  a  pine  and  sail 
away  across  the  valley  out  of  sight.  It  was  the  silence  of  the 
forest,  the  untamed  luxuriance  of  the  out-of-doors,  that  I  love. 

The  sunsets  were  magnificent,  and  one  evening,  while  we 
were  watching  the  stately  ceremony  from  the  piazza,  a  large 
black  bear  was  seen  trotting  along  the  highway.  In  the  excite- 
ment that  ensued  he  escaped  and  with  him  fled  all  zest  for  ex- 
ploration. The  rest  of  the  time  we  devoted  to  other  pursuits. 
Whole  days  were  spent  on  the  Bow  River  and  its  tributaries, 
paddling  in  birch-bark  canoes  and  fishing  with  rod  and  fly  in 
the  clear  water,  fanned  by  the  faint  breeze  of  the  woods.  We 
could  see  the  fish  calmly  lying  in  the  shadows  of  the  rocks ;  and 
occasionally  a  whole  school  of  trout  would  swim  slowly  around 
our  flies,  as  if  debating  which  should  have  the  first  bite.  It 
was  not  exciting  sport,  as  food  is  abundant,  and  the  wary,  well- 
fed  creatures  refused  to  be  caught.  Our  experience  was  not 
unlike  that  of  the  hunter  who,  after  an  unsuccessful  day,  asked 
a  woodman  if  there  was  "any  hunting  around  here,"  and  was 
answered,  "  Yes,  you  can  hunt  around  here  forever  and  get 
nothing." 

Learning,  while  at  Banff,  that  the  steamer  in  which  we 
were  to  sail  for  Japan  would  be  detained  for  a  period  of  two 
days,  we  decided  to  visit  other  points  of  interest. 

19 


1Fn  Bamboo  Xanfcs, 


The  train  took  us  to  Laggan,  a  station  thirty  miles  to  the 
west.  Thence  we  made  an  upward  climb  of  three  miles  by 
stage  to  the  Lakes  of  the  Clouds,  of  matchless  coloring.  They 
lie  one  above  the  other,  high  up,  among  gigantic  peaks  and 
fields  of  snow,  reflecting  in  their  crystal  waters  the  forests, 
cliffs,  and  lofty  summits  of  their  prison  walls.  Birds  had  en- 
tirely disappeared  at  these  altitudes,  but  lovely  wild-flowers 
grew  in  sheltered  spots  along  the  trail.  The  air  was  cool  and 
bracing,  and  the  views  were  unsurpassed  for  beauty  and  gran- 
deur. We  could  see  far  down  the  deep  and  narrow  gorges,  and 
magnificent  mountain  ranges  rearing  their  lofty  summits  far 
above  the  misty  realm  of  cloudland.  It  was  amid  such  sur- 
roundings that  we  spent  the  night  at  a  log  chalet — a  sweet,  quiet 
place,  picturesquely  situated  on  the  shore  of  Lake  Louise,  the 
lowest  of  that"  trio  of  lakelets."  The  evening  was  not  dull 
that  our  tired  party  spent  in  the  comfortable  sitting-room  be- 
fore a  fire  of  unsawed  cordwood,  detailing  our  experiences  in 
that  country  of  crag  and  canyon. 

Early  in  the  morning,  we  rode  down  through  the  forest  to 

the  station  and  resumed  our  journey.    Mount  Stephen,  12,000 

feet  high,  was  seen  from  different  points  as  we  swept  through 

the  canyons  walled  in  by  Cyclopean  peaks  and  dizzy  precipices. 

Suddenly  we  left  the  Rockies  and  plunged  into  the  Selkirks. 

We  crawled  around  wooded  mountain-sides,  we  crossed  bridges 

three  hundred  feet  above  roaring  torrents,  and  reached  the 

Glacier  House,  at  the  foot  of  Mount  Sir  Donald,  that  same 

afternoon.     Sir  Donald  and  the  glacier  looked  very  beautiful 

in  the  bright  sunshine  and  magnificent  in  the  brilliant  sunset. 

20 


XTbe  Queen's  UMgbwap, 

We  walked  up  the  ravine  two  miles  to  the  glacier  and  mounted 
its  grimy  cliffs,  that  lose  much  of  their  whiteness  on  close  ac- 
quaintance. Grand  as  it  is,  it  scarcely  equals  the  Alpine  and 
is  much  less  impressive  than  the  Alaskan.    The  mountains 


"SIR  DONALD  "  AND  THE  GREAT  GLACIER  OF  THE  SELKIRKS. 

that  wall  in  this  valley  and  its  glacier-fed  stream  lift  their 
cloud-capped  heights  to  an  altitude  of  ten  thousand  feet. 

That  evening,  under  the  guidance  of  an  old  miner,  who  had 
remarked,  "I'll  take  ye's  all,"  an  excursion  was  planned  for 
the  following  day.  As  the  outing  promised  to  be  both  instruc- 
tive and  amusing,  the  party  numbered  twenty-eight,  and,  pro- 
vided with  staves,  we  started  down  the  valley  to  inspect  that 

23 


In  Bamboo  Xanfcs. 


THE  LOOPS. 


railway  wonder  known  as  "The  Loops."  The  track  descends 
six  hundred  feet  in  two  miles,  crossing  two  ravines  by  a  series 
of  curves  and  loops  to  reach  the  deep  valley  below — a  marvel- 
lous example  of  engineering-  skill.    The  day  was  delightful  and 

24 


XTbe  (Queen's  Ibigbwas. 


the  mountain  air  delicious.  We  climbed  the  hillsides,  crossed 
mountain  streams,  crawled  over  boulders,  collected  minerals, 
gathered  berries  and  wild  flowers,  spread  our  lunch  on  a  shelv- 
ing- rock,  and  drank  from  the  sweet,  cool  brook  that  flowed  be- 
neath. Our  guide  was  anxious  we  should  see  everything,  and 
we  did ;  and  that  is  the  reason  why  one  over-fatigued  individual 
declared  we  had  tramped  eighty  miles  instead  of  eight.  I  left 
Glacier  with  real  regret. 

On  crossing  the  headwaters  of  the  Columbia,  I  asked  myself 
if  this  narrow  stream  were  the  same  river  I  had  seen  hurling 
itself  over  the  rocks  at  The  Dalles,  sweeping  majestically  past 
old  Vancouver  and  dashing  itself  into  the  Pacific  at  Astoria. 
We  passed  through  the  Gold  Range,  less  lofty  but  more  beau- 
tifully wooded,  down  to  the  shore  of  Shuswap  Lake,  glistening 
in  all  the  glory  of  sunset.  The  scenery  was  as  magnificent  as 
on  the  previous  day. 

The  ride  down  the  Fraser  River  canyon  was  the  most  excit- 
ing feature  of  the  trip.  Far  to  the  west  stretched  the  gorge, 
its  walls,  precipitous  for  the  most  part,  rising  grandly  hun- 
dreds of  feet  high  on  either  side.  The  railroad  is  cut  out  of 
the  cliff,  far  above  the  roaring  waters,  and  the  train  rushes 
down  the  dark  ravine  through  tunnels  and  around  curves  for 
hours,  until  the  mountains  recede  and  the  river  broadens. 
Encampments  of  Indians  engaged  in  catching  and  curing 
salmon,  which  they  enclose  in  boxes  and  place  high  up  in  the 
branches  of  tall  trees,  out  of  reach  of  bears  and  other  climbing 
animals,  were  located  all  through  the  Fraser  valley.  Bruin, 

one  fancies,  might  be  trusted  quite  as  much  as  some  members 

27 


An  JBamboo  Xanfcs, 


of  their  own  fraternity.  The  grandeur  and  variety  of  scenery 
we  had  passed  through  from  the  moment  we  entered  the  Rockies 
is  indescribable ;  and,  seated'  in  an  observation  car,  we  studied 
the  ever-changing  panorama.  Stretched  before  us  were  can- 
yons, wooded  heights,  mighty  rivers,  glaciers,  and  snow-cov- 
ered spires  rising  upward  until  cloud  and  sky  and  peak  com- 


FRASER  RIVER  AT  YALE. 


mingled  in  one  vast  and  bewildering  vision.  We  had  surfeit  of 
the  beautiful.  "  Furs,  fins,  and  feathers"  abound  in  that  para- 
dise of  the  adventurous  sportsman.  The  scenery  of  the  other 
transcontinental  roads  is  inferior  to  this,  since  one  can  look 
upon  a  lofty  mountain  from  summit  to  base  without  a  foothill 
to  intervene. 

28 


Uhc  Queen's  1bk}bwa£, 


Our  land  journey  ended  at  Vancouver — a  young,  ambitious 
city  with  a  fine  harbor,  a  beautiful  park,  and  real  estate  agents 
enough  to  buy  and  sell  every  foot  of  land  on  the  coast.  It  is 
less  than  a  decade  since  the  place  was  laid  out  on  a  magnificent 
scale ;  and  already  it  has  many  fine  commercial  blocks  of  stone, 
and  handsome  residences  with  well-kept  lawns  brilliant  with 
roses,  which  grow  to  perfection  in  that  climate.  Vast  numbers 
of  unbuilt  squares,  covered  with  stumps  of  the  Douglas  pine, 
disfigure  the  town ;  if  these  are  ever  built  upon  they  will  make 
Vancouver  a  mighty  city.  The  shops  are  rather  attractive, 
especially  those  in  which  Alaska  Indian  work  and  Oriental 
products  are  displayed.  The  city  has  wonderful  advantages 
of  splendid  mountain  and  superb  ocean  views,  far  and  near ; 
besides  many  miles  of  drives  through  woods  and  along  the 
seashore  to  Sea  Island  and  Lulu  Island.  The  most  charming 
is  the  nine-mile  drive  through  Stanley  Park — a  natural  forest 
of  giant  Douglas  pine,  with  thick  undergrowth  of  smaller  trees, 
shrubs,  and  ferns  entangled  with  vines  and  creepers.  Among 
the  many  beautiful  parasites  that  run  riot  are  the  birds-nest 
ferns  that  grow  in  great  profusion  on  the  overhanging  branches. 
We  drove  through  the  woods  to  a  cliff  where,  on  the  rocks 
below,  lay  the  wreck  of  the  Beaver,  the  first  steamer  that  ever 
ploughed  the  Pacific.  It  was  sent  around  Cape  Horn  in  1836 
by  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  and  did  duty  on  the  coast  for 
half  a  century,  until  dashed  on  the  rocks  of  Burrard  Inlet. 

An  electric  road  through  the  forest  connects  Vancouver 

with  New  Westminster  on  the  Fraser  River;  a  flourishing 

place  before  the  Canadian  Pacific  Railroad  made  Vancouver 

29 


1fn  JSamboo  SLanfcs. 


its  terminus.  Its  chief  industry  is  the  canning  of  salmon, 
and  shipping  it  to  all  parts  of  the  world.  The  river  swarms 
with  boats,  from  which  the  Indians  scoop  the  fish  out  of  the 
water  with  big  landing-nets,  a  piscatory  device  a  degree  higher 
than  the  wheel  used  on  the  Columbia. 

The  harbor  rilled  with  shipping,  and  its  shores  lined  with 
warehouses,  present  a  lively  scene,  particularly  on  sailing-day, 
when  the  townspeople  throng  the  wharves  to  see  the  steamer 
off.  We  embarked  on  the  Empress  of  India  amid  all  the  bustle 
attending  departure  on  long  voyages.  Loud  cheers  came  from 
a  hundred  throats  as  the  big  steamer  swung  loose  and  dropped 
slowly  down  the  Narrows  into  the  Gulf  of  Georgia,  studded 
with  innumerable  islands.  Snow-capped  Mount  Baker,  tower- 
ing to  a  height  of  14,000  feet,  was  in  sight  for  hours,  and  was 
the  last  we  were  to  see  of  our  native  land  until  twelve  long 
months  had  passed. 

That  evening  we  touched  at  Victoria,  where,  in  addition  to 
other  passengers  and  freight,  we  took  on  board  three  hundred 
Chinamen  (who  go  and  come  by  every  ship  by  the  hundreds) 
and  the  dead  bodies  of  sixty  more.  A  Chinese  loves  the  land 
of  his  birth  with  a  superstitious  reverence,  and  it  is  his  lifelong 
wish  to  be  buried  there.  If  he  is  so  unfortunate  as  to  die  in 
foreign  parts,  no  matter  how  great  the  distance,  he  insures 
that  his  remains  shall  be  taken  to  "  the  Flowery  Kingdom" 
for  final  rest. 

As  land  faded  from  sight  we  settled  down  to  the  enjoyment 
of  the  voyage.  The  ship  was  not  crowded.  We  had  large  airy 
staterooms,  every  arrangement  for  delightful  baths,  luxurious 

3° 


TLhc  Queen's  Ifotobwap. 

chairs  on  the  broad  promenade  decks,  and  the  food  was  excel- 
lent; every  comfort  was  provided  for,  but  we  had  reckoned 
without  the  weather,  and  that  was  execrable.  The  course 
taken  by  this  line  of  steamers  is  a  northerly  one ;  and  after  the 
first  day  fogs,  rains,  and  rousing  winds  had  full  sway,  and  for 
twenty-four  hours  very  few  persons  were  present  at  the  table. 
Two  days  were  spent  in  the  seclusion  of  my  cabin,  for  I  know 
of  no  better  remedy  for  seasickness  than  to  go  to  my  berth  and 
remain  there  until  it  runs  its  horrid  course.  When  partially 
recovered,  I  feebly  sought  the  fresh  air ;  but  an  icy  wind  blew 
across  the  wet  and  slippery  decks,  and  the  warmest  Avraps  gave 
insufficient  protection.  My  last  resort  was  the  library,  where  I 
sat  day  after  day  devouring  all  the  books  I  could  find  on  China 
and  Japan,  and  deriving  both  pleasure  and  profit  while  the  gale 
increased  and  the  staunch  ship  tossed  and  tumbled  in  tempestu- 
ous seas.  Sir  Harry  Parkes  was  England's  most  "  trusty  and 
able"  representative  in  the  "  Far  East  for  a  period  of  forty- 
three  years."  He  held  various  consular  posts  in  China,  and 
was  taken  prisoner  during  the  war  of  i860  and  tortured.  "  In 
1865  he  was  appointed  Minister  Plenipotentiary  and  Envoy 
Extraordinary  to  the  Court  of  Yedo,  which  post  he  continued 
to  hold  until  1883."  During  the  revolution  of  1868,  which 
resulted  in  the  overthrow  of  the  Shogun  and  the  restoration  of 
the  Mikado  to  his  ancient  rights,  Sir  Harry,  with  great  fore- 
sight, "  threw  the  whole  weight  of  British  influence  into  the 
loyal  side  against  the  rebels."  In  1883  he  was  promoted  as 
British  Minister  to  the  Court  of  Peking,  where  he  died  in  1885. 
His  career  both  in  China  and  in  Japan  showed  great  strength 

31 


1Fn  bamboo  Xanfcs, 


of  character,  and  his  sunny  smile  and  genial  manner  attracted 
to  him  all  with  whom  he  came  into  contact.  My  seat  at  table 
was  next  that  of  his  eldest  daughter,  a  charming  lady  and  the 
wife  of  an  English  gentleman  residing  in  Hong-Kong.  Such 
was  my  good  fortune,  we  became  warm  friends ;  but  I  did  not 
learn  of  her  distinguished  parentage  until  I  reached  Yokohama. 
She  remained  with  her  children  and  her  younger  sister  in 
Japan  until  late  in  autumn ;  I  was  her  guest  on  several  occa- 
sions, and  she  could  not  have  been  kinder.  The  letters  of  in- 
troduction I  had  taken  were  unnecessary;  her  influence  gave 
me  the  entree  of  all  I  wished  to  see  and  secured  me  a  gracious 
reception. 

The  monotony  of  life  on  board  was  varied  by  a  distant 
view  of  an  outlying  island  of  the  Aleutian  group,  a  flaring 
display  of  aurora  borealis  with  splendors  of  color  impossible 
to  describe,  and  the  reported  deaths  of  three  Celestials  in  the 
steerage.  There  were  no  burials  at  sea,  however ;  their  com- 
patriots embalmed  the  remains,  and  I  suppose  they  now  rest  in 
ancestral  ground. 

The  Chinese  stewards,  dressed  in  white  cotton  garments, 
were  a  feature  of  the  ship.  Quiet,  faithful,  and  attentive, — 
too  attentive  on  occasion, — they  have  a  habit  of  entering  one's 
cabin  without  ceremony  at  most  unseasonable  times.  One 
afternoon  while  enjoying  a  nap  on  my  lounge,  I  was  suddenly 
aroused  by  my  steward,  who  said :  "  You  wake  up  now.  I  see 
you  sleep,  dinner  he  ready."  This  incident  occurred  the  day 
we  crossed  the  180th  meridian,  and  the  two  combined  made 
a  lasting  impression. 

32 


XTbe  (Queen's  Ibtgbwa^, 


As  we  were  entirely  out  of  the  track  of  commerce,  not  a 
ship  was  sighted  until  we  neared  the  Japan  coast. 

Day  after  day  we  moved  steadily  on  in  the  wintry  air.  The 
storm  ceased  as  we  entered  the  Japan  Stream ;  the  atmosphere 
was  no  longer  cold,  but  full  of  moisture.  Furs  and  heavy 
clothing  were  laid  aside,  and  lighter  garments  were  in  requi- 
sition. 

In  traversing  the  vast  expanse  of  the  Pacific  half  a  score  of 
times,  I  have  always  found  that  misnamed  ocean  in  a  passion- 
ate, hateful  mood,  and  it  kept  up  its  bad  temper  to  the  end. 
The  last  day  we  ran  into  an  outer  circle  (I  have  no  curiosity  to 
make  practical  acquaintance  with  an  inner  section)  of  one  of 
those  revolving  storms  or  typhoons  that  are  so  disastrous  to 
shipping  on  that  coast.  According  to  schedule,  we  should 
have  reached  our  destination,  Yokohama,  on  a  certain  day; 
but  the  wind  lashed  the  sea  into  foam,  and  the  steamer  was 
compelled  to  lie  off  the  harbor  all  night.  The  storm  obscured 
all  objects  of  interest  as  we  steamed  up  Tokyo  Bay,  where  we 
dropped  anchor  about  two  miles  from  land.  To  disembark  was 
well-nigh  impossible ;  the  hurricane  had  left  the  sea  still  agi- 
tated, and  the  captain  wisely  decided  to  wait  until  the  waves 
subsided  before  approaching  the  shore. 

As  there  are  no  wharves  in  Yokohama,  passengers  are 
obliged  to  land  in  small  boats.  We  were  at  once  surrounded 
by  a  swarm  of  sampans — clumsy-looking  native  boats,  heavily 
and  strongly  put  together  with  wooden  bolts.  Flat- bottomed 
and  flat-sided,  the  bow  is  high  and  pointed,  the  stern  nearly 
square ;  they  are  sculled  by  two  or  more  men  standing  up,  and 
3  33 


1Fn  Bamboo  SLanfcs. 


managed  with  great  skill.  I  cannot  in  truth  say  that  the  boat- 
men were  dressed,  as  they  wore  only  a  wide-sleeved  scanty 
garment  open  at  the  neck  and  not  reaching  to  the  knees,  and  a 
strip  of  cloth  knotted  on  the  forehead.  The  material  of  the 
dress  was  cotton,  cheap  and  coarse,  and  blue  in  color.  This 
was  full  dress  for  the  adults.  The  lads  were  nude  except  for 
the  maro,  or  loin  cloth,  which  the  law  compels  them  to  adopt. 
Their  limbs,  bare  and  unshapely,  were  ornately  tattooed.  I 
noticed  one  whose  yellow  skin  was  well  covered  with  some 
hideous  creature;  the  opening  in  his  one  garment  disclosed 
the  head  resting  on  his  chest  and  the  other  extremity  wound 
about  his  leg.  While  the  natives  waited  excitedly  for  passen- 
gers and  freight,  they  kept  up  a  constant  chatter,  and  in  their 
eager  haste  they  bumped  and  jostled  each  other  with  great 
good-nature,  using  the  cry  of  "  Hai !"  "  Hai !"  as  a  precaution- 
ary signal.  The  sampans  were  so  tightly  packed  that  you 
could  ha\^e  walked  over  the  solid,  moving,  changing  floor  of 
boats. 

The  officers  discouraged  all  attempts  at  leaving  the  ship ; 
but  one  passenger,  a  very  stout  lady,  was  determined  to  go  at 
all  hazards.  She  signalled  a  steam-launch  and  was  assisted  on 
board,  while  the  small  craft  rose  and  sank  frightfully  in  the 
rough  sea.  The  boat  rocked  so  terribly,  it  was  impossible  for 
her  to  enter  the  sheltered  cabin,  and  she  lay  on  the  deck,  cling- 
ing frantically  to  the  rail  and  washed  by  the  spray,  as  she  made 
the  long  passage  to  shore,  which  she  reached  at  last  in  safety, 
seasick  and  drenched  with  salt  water.  I  met  her  soon  after 
the  adventure.    She  bewailed  the  utter  ruin  of  her  tailor-made 

34 


XTbe  Queen's  ibigbwap. 

gown,  but  appeared  not  to  be  conscious  of  the  danger  she  had 
courted  and  of  her  ludicrous  position  on  the  cabin  roof. 

The  typhoon  blew  itself  out  at  last  and  the  sea  became 
comparatively  calm;  the  steam  launch  of  the  Grand  Hotel 
landed  our  baggage  and  ourselves  thankful  that  the  journey 
was  ended. 

35 


CHAPTER  II. 


AROUND  TOKYO  BAY. 

Yokohama  is  the  principal  open  port — there  are  six — in 
which  foreigners  are  allowed  to  reside  and  pursue  their  varied 
callings.  The  others  are  Hakodate,  Niigata,  Osaka,  Kobe,  and 
Nagasaki.  At  the  custom-house  wharf  a  polite  official  in  blue 
European  dress  and  gold  buttons  opened  and  examined  our 
baggage  carefully,  and  then  strapped  it  up  again — but  one  in- 
stance of  the  many  civilities  shown  us  in  Japan. 

The  inspection  over,  we  were  besieged  by  crowds  of  jin- 
rickisha runners.  These  men  are  short  and  lean,  but  splendid 
specimens  of  muscular  development.  They  wear  short  tights 
of  blue  cotton  cloth,  overshirts  of  the  same  material  open  at 
the  neck,  with  wide,  hanging  sleeves.  A  strip  of  cotton  is 
knotted  about  the  forehead,  and  when  the  sun  is  hot  they  tie 
on  their  heads  huge  mushroom-shaped  hats  of  straw.  Straw 
sandals  (waraji),  with  a  loop  for  the  great  toe  and  tied  on  by 
twists  of  straw,  complete  the  dress.  The  sandals  are  quickly 
worn  out  and  easily  replaced,  as  they  cost  but  two  sen  a  pair. 
As  the  roads  are  perfectly  hard  and  smooth,  the  coolies  trot 
along  easily  at  the  rate  of  five  miles  an  hour,  making  on  level 
roads  thirty  miles  a  day.  In  going  up  hill  or  on  long  journeys, 
a  second  coolie  (atoshi)  is  required.    At  night  they  carry  small 

36 


paper  lanterns  that  "wink  and  darkle"  like  fire-flies.  The 
"rickshaw"  (an  abbreviated  term  used  by  foreigners)  was  in- 
vented about  1870  by  an  American  missionary,  and  at  once 
became  the  popular  conveyance.  I  shall  use  the  more  eu- 
phonious Japanese  name  of  kuruma  for  the  carriage  and  kuru- 
maya  for  the  runner.  The  kuruma  resembles  a  large-sized 
baby-carriage,  and  has  two  wheels,  a  pair  of  shafts,  an  oiled- 
paper  hood,  and  a  cushioned  seat  with  a  receptacle  underneath 
for  parcels.  The  black-lacquered  body  is  usually  without  orna- 
ment ;  but  occasionally  one  is  seen  richly  decorated  and  uphol- 
stered in  velvet.  In  case  of  rain,  the  hood  is  put  up  and  a  lap- 
covering  of  oiled  paper  is  drawn  over  the  occupant,  who  is  then 
securely  protected.  The  hood  serves  also  as  a  shield  from  the 
fierce  rays  of  the  sun.  I  stepped  into  a  little  carriage,  the 
coolie  raised  the  shafts  and  started  off  on  a  lively  trot  along  the 
water-front,  known  as  "  the  Bund. "  My  first  sensation  was  one 
of  real  delight  to  be  on  land  after  days  of  incessant  tossing  on 
rough  waters ;  and  the  second,  the  novel  experience  of  riding 
behind  a  peculiar  horse  with  a  swift  pair  of  brown  legs.  The 
latter  amused  me  so  greatly,  I  had  scarcely  recovered  my  com- 
posure when  set  down  at  the  Grand  Hotel.  My  friends  met  me 
at  the  entrance,  and  I  was  soon  located  in  cheerful  quarters 
overlooking  the  bay.  The  harbor  viewed  from  the  veranda  pre- 
sented a  busy  appearance,  crowded  with  men-of-war  and  mer- 
chant ships  bearing  flags  of  foreign  powers,  Japanese  steamers, 
and  picturesque  junks  and  sampans,  and  stretching  far  out 
toward  the  horizon  were  countless  fishing-boats  with  white 
sails  made  of  strips  of  cotton  cloth  loosely  laced  together. 

39 


Un  Bamboo  Xan&s. 


The  weather  was  so  warm  it  was  delightful  to  sit  on  the  wide 
balcony  after  dinner  with  groups  of  merry  tourists,  while  the 
band  played  pleasing  airs,  jugglers  performed  clever  feats  on 
the  lawn,  kurumas  with  lanterns  tossing  a  variable  light  glim- 
mered up  and  down  the  avenue,  and  thousands  of  lights  in  the 
harbor  added  brilliancy  to  the  scene.  Every  morning  I  went 
out  on  the  rear  porch,  from  which  on  a  clear  day  Fujiyama,  the 
most  perfect  mountain  in  Japan,  is  clearly  visible,  rising  in 
sublime  grandeur  12,365  feet  from  the  plain.  The  superiority 
of  this  mountain  is  due  to  its  isolation.  Fujiyama  is  held  by 
the  Japanese  in  religious  veneration ;  it  furnishes  an  inspira- 
tion for  artists,  who  never  weary  of  depicting  it,  and  you  see  its 
outline  more  or  less  defined  on  nearly  every  work  of  art. 

Every  evening  I  heard  under  my  window  the  low  plaintive 
sounds  of  the  blind  shampooers,  an  appeal  for  aid  and  protec- 
tion as  they  grope  about  the  streets  with  their  long  oak  sticks. 
They  form  a  guild  by  themselves,  the  number  is  very  great, 
and  they  all  carry  a  whistle.  In  Japan  charity  toward  the  blind 
is  an  institution;  the  government  has  set  aside  this  profitable 
industry  for  the  support  of  these  poor  sightless  creatures,  and  a 
blind  beggar  is  unknown.  Shampooing,  or  massage,  is  a 
luxury  all  classes  indulge  in,  and  this  dexterous  manipulation  of 
the  skin  and  muscles  for  those  suffering  from  nervous  exhaus- 
tion is  said  to  induce  sleep  when  all  other  remedies  have  failed. 

First  of  all  we  rode  through  the  European  town  to  our  con- 
sulate, through  which  we  applied  for  passports  to  travel  in  the 
interior,  and  then  to  the  bank  to  get  our  money  changed, 

where  we  were  agreeably  surprised  to  receive  a  premium  of 

40 


Hrounfc  Uofepo  Bat*. 


thirty-eight  per  cent,  on  our  gold.  The  "yen"  of  Japan  is 
divided  into  one  hundred  "sen,"  and  the  "sen"  into  ten  "rin" 
each ;  at  par  it  corresponds  to  our  dollar,  but  in  recent  years  it 
has  greatly  depreciated  in  value.  They  have  the  free-silver 
system,  and  under  that  stand- 
ard the  wealth  of  the  Jap- 
anese had  already  depreciated 
nearly  forty  per  cent.  The 
rin,  of  which  it  takes  a  thou- 
sand to  make  a  yen,  has  a 
hole  in  the  middle  for  con- 
venience in  stringing.  The 
copper  coins  are  called  by 
foreigners  "  cash."  The  coin- 
age consists  of  gold,  silver, 
and  copper;  but  the  paper 
money,  or  satsu,  is  the  most 
convenient  medium  in  circu- 
lation. The  Mexican  silver 
dollar  is  the  only  foreign 
money  that  is  current  in  Japan;  it  is  the  monetary  unit 
throughout  the  far  East.  With  our  newly  acquired  wealth, 
we  hurried  to  the  native  town  that  adjoins  the  European, 
riding  through  streets  where  everything  was  strange — the 
houses,  the  people,  the  costumes,  even  the  sounds  were  all 
strange. 

As  we  alighted  before  a  small  shop,  the  proprietor  greeted 
us  cordially  with  profound  bows,  accentuated  by  every  member 

43 


BLIND  SHAMPOOER. 


Un  bamboo  Xanfcs. 


of  the  establishment.  Japanese  shops  are  never  large — are 
scarcely  more  than  little  alcoves  open  to  the  street ;  the  floors 
are  raised  two  feet  above  the  ground  and  highly  polished  or 


THE  ONE  HUNDRED  STEPS. 


covered  with  fine  matting.  The  goods,  arranged  on  shelves 
and  in  cabinets,  are  invitingly  exposed  to  view,  and  at  night 
are  stored  away  in  fireproof  warehouses.  Behind  the  shop 
there  is  usually  a  garden  with  trees  and  flowers,  a  landscape  in 
miniature,  for  flower  culture  among  the  Japanese  is  a  labor  of 
love.     Rows  of  wooden  clogs  (geta)  are  seen  in  front  of  all 

44 


Brounfc  Uokyo  Bap. 


doors,  as,  upon  entering,  visitors  are  expected  to  remove  their 
shoes.  If  you  do  not,  you  are  requested  to  do  so.  It  was  so 
very  inconvenient,  with  our  buttoned  boots,  that  we  usually 
sat  on  the  ledge  and  had  the  goods  brought  to  us.  We  had 
been  advised  not  to  patronize  these  quaint  little  shops,  but  to 
wait  until  we  reached  the  older  cities,  as  those  of  Yokohama 
were  poor  as  compared  with  those  of  Tokyo  and  Kyoto.  But 
it  was  all  too  unfamiliar  and  odd ;  like  most  new  arrivals,  we 
fell  victims  to  the  curio-venders  and  returned  to  our  hotel  to 
regret  our  weakness  and  make  new  resolutions,  to  be  kept  until 
tempted  again  to  break  them.  The  large  curio  stores  appear 
to  be  in  the  hands  of  men  with  a  keen  eye  to  profit,  who,  hav- 
ing retired  from  piracy  at  sea,  pursue  a  like  occupation  on 
shore  and  are  usually  very  successful. 

The  most  picturesque  part  of  the  city  is  the  locality  known 
as  "the  Bluff,"  where  the  well-to-do  foreigners  have  their 
residences.  The  ascent  is  by  steep,  winding  roads ;  its  avenues 
are  lined  with  fine  gardens  in  which  handsome  villas  are  half- 
hidden  in  a  luxuriant  growth  of  trees  and  flowering  shrubs. 
From  this  height  the  view  embraces  the  town  and  the  whole 
port.  There  are  also  several  florists'  gardens,  charmingly  laid 
out  and  stocked  with  foreign  and  native  plants,  one  of  which 
is  celebrated  for  peonies  of  a  hundred  varieties,  and  later  in 
the  year  we  saw  there  a  magnificent  display  of  chrysanthe- 
mums. A  short  distance  farther  on  are  three  caves,  said  to 
have  been  the  dwelling-place  of  the  aborigines.  They  re- 
sembled an  ordinary  Indian  dug-out  minus  the  door. 

Fujita,  the  oldest  tea-house  in  Yokohama,  and  much  fre- 

45 


•ffn  Bamboo  Xanfcs, 


quented  by  foreigners,  is  reached  by  a  steep  stairway  of  one 
hundred  steps.  It  stands  on  the  Bluff  and  commands  a  fine 
view  of  Fujiyama,  from  which  it  derives  its  name.  We  climbed 
the  steps  and,  while  resting  near  a  shrine,  listened  to  the  fol- 
lowing tale,  which  proves  that  rash  acts  are  not  confined  to  the  - 
western  world:  In  1881,  a  Japanese  circus  rider  and  his 
daughter  ascended  these  stairs  on  horseback,  and  the  father 
rode  down  again  standing  on  his  head  and  holding  an  open  fan 
by  his  feet.  He  had  made  a  vow  to  ride  up  the  steps  of  every 
shrine  in  each  place  that  he  visited,  as  a  sign  of  earnestness  in 
asking  the  gods  to  insure  him  success  in  business.  Apparently 
the  gods  did  not  approve,  as  a  fall  headlong  eventually  ter- 
minated his  career.  The  interior  of  the  tea-house  was  one 
large  room,  which  could  be  divided  into  smaller  ones  by 
drawing  the  sliding  screens.  The  floor,  like  those  of  the  shops, 
was  raised  two  feet  above  the  ground.  While  we  examined  an 
enormous  book  containing  cards  of  visitors  from  every  country, 
in  various  walks  of  life,  dainty  little  maids  served  tea  in  small 
cups  without  handles.  Among  many  distinguished  names  I 
saw  that  of  Commodore  Perry,  the  first  visitor,  followed  by 
Admiral  Putiatin,  an  ambassador  of  Russia,  the  Prince  of 
Italy,  the  Prince  of  Wales'  two  sons,  the  Grand  Duke  of  Russia, 
the  Duke  of  Edinburgh,  the  Maharajah  of  Jeypor,  and  the  Em- 
peror of  Brazil.  During  General  Grant's  travels  in  Japan  in 
1879,  he  twice  attempted  to  ascend  the  steps,  but  strong  winds 
and  rain  interposed  on  both  occasions. 

My  passport  came  and  proved  to  be  an  important  document. 

Among  other  commands  and  instructions  in  the  long  list  of 

46 


Brounfc  Uofepo  Bay. 


what  to  do  and  what  to  avoid,  the  "  bearer  is  expected  to  be- 
have in  an  orderly  and  conciliatory  manner  toward  the  Japa- 
nese authorities  and  people" ;  "  to  produce  and  exhibit  his  pass- 


TEA-HOUSE. 


port  to  any  Japanese  official  who  may  demand  to  see  it;"  he 
"must  obey  all  the  local  laws;"  when  " travelling  in  the  in- 
terior" he  is  "  not  allowed  to  buy  from,  sell  to,  exchange,  or 
make  contracts  with  Japanese  in  any  province;"  he  is  "not 
allowed  to  permanently  dwell  in  houses  of  the  Japanese  in  the 
interior,"  or  "shoot  or  hunt"  beyond  the  treaty  limits;  "at 

47 


Un  Bamboo  Xanfcs, 


hotels  where  they  seek  lodging  travellers  will  show  their  pass- 
ports to  the  hotel-keepers."    The  local  laws  forbid: 

"  Travelling  at  night  in  a  carriage  without  a  light. 

"  Attending  a  fire  on  horseback. 

"  Disregarding  notices  of  'No  thoroughfare. ' 

"  Rapid  driving  on  narrow  roads. 

"  Neglecting  to  pay  ferry  or  bridge  tolls. 

"  Injuring  notice-boards,  house-signs,  and  mile-posts. 

"  Scribbling  on  temples,  shrines,  or  walls. 

"  Injuring  crops,  shrubs,  trees,  or  plants  on  the  road  or  in 
gardens. 

"  Trespassing  on  fields,  enclosures,  or  game  preserves. 

"  Lighting  fires  in  woods  or  on  hills  or  moors. " 

After  a  careful  perusal  it  would  appear  that  former  visitors 
to  Japan  had  left  a  bad  record,  or  that  the  Japanese  are  a  very 
suspicious  race.  Later,  I  discovered  that  the  authorities  had 
just  cause  for  making  these  rules ;  that  half-civilized  travellers 
had  been  guilty  of  bawling  out  "  Ohyo!"  ("  How  are  you?")  to 
every  one  on  the  road,  had  startled  tea-house  nymphs,  had 
kicked  and  slapped  coolies,  and  stamped  over  white  mats  and 
polished  floors  in  muddy  boots,  and  had  acted  usually  like  mis- 
chievous monsters.  The  priests  of  one  temple  were  forced  to 
post  this  appeal :  "  Stranger,  whosoever  thou  art  and  whatso- 
ever be  thy  creed,  when  thou  enterest  this  sanctuary,  remem- 
ber thou  treadest  upon  ground  hallowed  by  the  worship  of 
ages.  This  is  the  temple  of  Buddha  and  the  gate  of  the  eter- 
nal, and  should  therefore  be  entered  with  reverence." 

It  was  late  in  the  season  to  make  the  ascent  of  Fujiyama, 

48 


HrounD  Uofepo  Bap. 

and  our  party  had  been  cautioned  as  to  the  risk ;  but  the  in- 
dications pointed  to  settled  weather,  and  we  decided  to  attempt 
it.  We  made  hasty  preparation — providing  ourselves  with 
warm  clothing,  heavy  shoes,  and  provisions  necessary  for  the 
journey — and  we  started  for  Gotemba  at  the  base  of  the  moun- 
tains, three  hours  distant  by  rail.  There  we  remained  over 
night,  engaging  guides,  coolies,  and  horses  for  the  ascent  of  the 
morrow.  Fujiyama  with  one  grand  sweep  rises  sublimely 
from  the  plain.  Farm  lands  extend  to  a  height  of  fifteen  hun- 
dred feet ;  above  that  is  a  grassy  moorland,  and  then  begins 
the  forest  belt,  reaching  to  six  thousand  feet.  The  last  erup- 
tion occurred  in  1708;  but  it  still  ranks  as  a  volcano,  as  steam 
can  be  seen  issuing  from  a  crater  near  the  summit.  It  may 
again  prove  mischievous.  From  end  to  end  the  country  has 
no  less  than  fifty-one  active  volcanoes.  On  the  mountain-side, 
built  for  the  accommodation  of  pilgrims,  are  a  number  of  huts, 
in  which  tourists  find  grateful  shelter  when  overtaken  by  the 
fierce  storms  of  snow  and  wind  that  suddenly  sweep  down. 
To  avoid  staying  over-night  in  one  of  these  wretched  places, 
we  started  long  before  daylight,  riding  up  among  pretty  culti- 
vated fields  in  the  cool  morning  air,  and  were  well  on  the 
moorland  when  the  sun  burst  upon  us,  illuminating  the  sky 
and  distant  peaks  with  all  the  wonderful  tints  of  pink  and 
gold.  It  was  a  glorious  sight,  something  to  think  of  for  the 
rest  of  one's  life.  Our  faithful  animals  carefully  picked  their 
way  along  the  rough  trail  as  far  as  Tarobo,  where  we  bought 
staves  and  began  the  climb.  We  soon  passed  beyond  the 
groves  of  hardy  trees,  above  all  vegetation,  to  the  aerial  ash- 
4  49 


ITn  Bamboo  Xanfcs, 

heap,  gradually  ascending  the  ancient  pathway  through  rocky 
ravines  and  over  volcanic  deposits,  of  which  much  of  the  region 
is  composed.  It  was  a  long,  weary  climb  to  the  summit,  which 
we  reached  without  accident,  but  completely  exhausted  by  the 
effort  of  struggling  through  loose  cinders.  The  difficulties  of 
high  mountain  climbing  can  be  estimated  only  by  those  ac- 
quainted with  it.  It  was  much  like  the  ascent  of  Vesuvius  from 
the  Pompeiian  side.  The  first  woman  to  make  this  ascent  was 
a  foreigner,  Lady  Parkes,  in  1867,  for  Sengen,  the  goddess  of 
Fujiyama,  who  "makes  the  blossoms  of  the  trees  to  flower," 
•was  known  to  hate  her  own  sex  and  to  keep  devils  to  fly  away 
-with  such  rash  invaders.  On  the  summit  of  the  volcano,  two 
;and  one-fourth  miles  above  the  sea,  a  stone  hut  has  been 
erected  for  shelter ;  and  there  we  rested  while  the  guides  pre- 
pared dinner.  It  was  a  glorious  day  on  the  peak,  and  we  sat 
in  the  bright  sunshine  and  looked  down  on  a  sea  of  clouds  and 
golden  mist.  Suddenly  the  wind  changed,  the  white  clouds 
drifted  away  swiftly  over  the  valley;  we  saw  the  plain  at  our 
feet  and  the  distant  ranges  that  from  our  aerie  looked  like 
foothills.  Magnificent  as  were  the  cloud  effects,  we  were 
well  pleased  to  have  them  disperse  to  give  us  an  unobstructed 
bird's-eye  view,  and  we  clapped  our  hands  with  joy  at  sight  of 
the  world  at  our  feet.  There  seemed  to  be  no  limit  to  the 
vision.  Stretching  away  in  the  distance  could  be  seen  the 
bays  that  outline  the  coast,  mountain  ranges  rising  one  behind 
the  other,  the  lakes  which  lie  to  the  north,  dark  groves  in  the 
valley  below,  villages  here  and  there,  and  rivers  twining  in 
and  out  like  twisting  cords  of  silver  on  their  course  to  the  sea. 

5° 


Not  far  off  yawned  the  summit  of  the  immense  crater,  from 
which  issued  sulphurous  vapor.  We  did  not  visit  it,  as  the 
walk  would  have  added  greatly  to  our  fatigue,  and  our  curiosity 
in  that  respect  had  long  since  been  gratified  by  the  sublime 
spectacle  of  Kilauea.    We  left  that  hardship  to  bands  of  pil- 


PILGRIMS  TO  FUJIYAMA. 


grims,  dressed  in  white,  with  long  staves  and  big  hats,  that 
we  met  constantly,  plodding  along  with  languid  steps.  Al- 
though sliding  down  the  ashes  to  the  forest  belt  was  more 
exciting  than  agreeable,  it  made  the  descent  comparatively 
easy.  There  was  but  little  snow  on  the  mountain  and  that  lay 
mostly  in  the  deep  gorges,  but  we  found  no  flowers.  We 

51 


1fn  Bamboo  Xanfcs, 


passed  out  of  the  forest  just  as  the  sun  sank  below  the  horizon 
in  an  ocean  of  molten  gold.  Such  a  wealth  of  color  I  have 
seldom  seen— red,  gold,  blue,  green,  and  violet  mingled  in 
lavish  profusion.  We  rode  down  in  the  still  air  of  evening 
to  Gotemba,  reaching  it  long  after  nightfall.  The  goddess 
Sengen  must  have  favored  us,  for  the  weather  was  perfect, 
and  her  satellites,  a  certain  gentleman  and  his  retainers,  pre- 
sumed not  to  disturb  us.  The  next  morning  we  returned  to 
Yokohama  exhausted  with  the  hardships  that  have  to  be 
endured  in  mountain  climbing,  and  delighted  with  the  ad- 
venture in  spite  of  prophetic  predictions.  The  trip  was  made 
against  the  wishes  of  our  best  friends,  who  had  entreated  us 
not  to  attempt  what  few  men  cared  to  undertake. 

What  most  impressed  me  in  my  first  ride  around  the  city- 
was  the  tall  Chinaman — a  striking  figure,  with  that  wonderful 
gravity  that  never  deserts  him ;  and  when  walking,  or  flying 
about  in  a  kuruma  drawn  by  a  Japanese,  he  has  an  air  of  be- 
longing to  a  superior  race.  With  long,  black,  tightly  braided 
queue  reaching  to  the  knees,  rich  overdress  of  brocade,  and 
cap,  trousers,  and  shoes  of  satin,  his  whole  appearance  indi- 
cates prosperity.  He  has  the  skill  to  acquire  wealth  and  the 
ability  to  keep  it.  In  the  Hong-Kong  and  Shanghai  Bank  in 
Yokohama,  with  the  exception  of  a  few  Europeans,  all  the 
clerks  are  Chinese.  He  is  also  the  trusted  clerk  in  mercantile 
houses  and  hotels,  the  money-changer  and  the  compradore, 
or  middleman,  ivho  arranges  all  business  between  the  foreign 
merchant  and  the  Japanese  dealer.  Shrewd,  upright,  practical 
men  of  business,  the  Chinese  traders  have  won  the  respect  of 

52 


A  DASHI  OR  RELIGIOUS  CAR. 


Brounfc  Qokyo  Bap, 


all  who  have  been  brought  into  contact  with  them.  A  great 
deal  has  been  said  at  the  expense  of  "John  Chinaman,"  but  in 
Yokohama  he  is  the  ruling  power  in  financial  circles. 

We  suffered  much  from  heat  and  humidity.  There  is  some- 
thing lacking  in  the  atmosphere ;  and  it  is  a  curious  fact  that 
Americans,  as  a  class,  cannot  reside  for  years  in  that  climate 
without  having  their  health  seriously  impaired.  Although  the 
air  produces  a  lassitude  which  makes  all  exertion  difficult,  I 
enjoyed  walking  about  the  streets,  as  it  was  a  better  way  to 
see  the  sights  and  exercise  was  a  necessity.  But  the  difficulty 
was  to  avoid  the  kurumayas,  who  cannot  comprehend  why 
foreigners  walk  just  for  the  sake  of  walking,  and  despise  them 
accordingly.  They  will  follow  pedestrians  calling  out  "  Rick- 
shaw!" until  the  victim  is  well-nigh  distracted;  and  when  they 
turn  back  new-comers  take  up  the  cry.  For  peace'  sake  I 
yielded,  solving  the  difficulty  by  hiring  one  to  follow  me  in 
my  wanderings,  and  rose  to  high  rank  in  his  estimation  at  a 
cost  of  eight  sen  an  hour.  The  one  I  made  a  bargain  with 
had  been  specially  recommended  for  his  good  qualities  and  his 
knowledge  of  English.  I  opened  negotiations  by  asking,  "  Do 
you  speak  English?"  "Yes,"  he  replied.  "Who  taught  you?" 
"Yes!"  with  the  greatest  assurance. 

A  short  distance  from  the  hotel  is  a  native  street  in  which 
shows  of  all  kinds  flourish.  Acrobats,  athletes,  jugglers,  liv- 
ing statues,  deformed  animals  and  birds,  trained  monkeys, 
shooting-alleys  where  one  can  try  his  skill  with  bows  eight 
feet  long  and  arrows  half  the  length,  are  a  few  of  the  innumer- 
able attractions. 

55 


Art  Bamboo  !JLanbs. 


Religious  festivals  in  honor  of  some  god  are  frequently 
held  there,  and  one  day  we  chanced  upon  a  most  curious 
sight.  The  narrow  thoroughfare  was  gayly  decorated  with 
banners  and  bright-colored  paper  lanterns,  and  was  thronged 
with  pleasure-seekers  of  all  ages.  The  centre  of  the  attraction 
was  the  "  Dashi,"  or  religious  car,  a  lofty  erection  that  towered 
above  the  low  two-story  buildings.  This  structure  was  of 
heavy  beams  resting  on  solid  wooden  wheels ;  a  temple-shaped 
roof  supported  by  a  framework  of  bamboo  completed  the  car. 
Seated  in  it  was  an  effigy  of  the  god  and  a  band  of  musi- 
cians, who  scraped  and  pounded  their  instruments,  which  rent 
the  air  with  infernal  discords  until  the  ear  grew  fatigued  and 
sought  relief.  The  decorations  consisted  of  enormous  lanterns 
of  paper  with  strange  devices,  huge  bunches  of  paper  flowers, 
and  minor  details  connected  with  the  ceremonies.  It  was 
drawn  along  by  people  looking  as  pleased  as  children  with  new 
toys.  These  festivals  seem  doomed  to  disappear,  particularly 
in  cities,  where  the  tall  cars  seriously  interfere  with  the  electric 
wires.  Nothing,  however,  could  afford  more  novelty  than  the 
orderly  crowd,  composed  of  happy  old  people,  invariably  re- 
spected and  honored ;  the  middle-aged  and  the  youth  surrounded 
by  troops  of  children ;  and  the  infants  strapped  to  their  mother's 
backs,  peeping  about  in  a  knowing  way  or  sleeping  in  blissful 
unconsciousness.  How  any  creature  could  sleep  in  that  racket 
was  beyond  comprehension.  The  costumes  Avere  indescrib- 
able. The  long,  loose  kimona,  with  flowing  sleeves,  is  the 
national  garment;  but  in  many  instances  it  had  been  so 
absurdlv  altered  and  abridged  that,  in  the  case  of  verv  voung 

56 


children,  it  had  dwindled  to  an  amulet  suspended  about  the 
waist  by  a  string. 

A  favorite  resort  within  five  miles  of  Yokohama  is  Missis- 
sippi Bay,  which  derives  its  name  from  the  flag-ship  of  Com- 
modore Perry,  who,  with  his  squadron,  anchored  there  in  1853. 
He  arrived  in  Japan  armed  with  credentials  and  a  letter  from 
President  Filmore  to  the  Shogun  "  demanding  the  establish- 
ment of  international  relations."  At  that  time  the  Mikado 
lived  in  retirement  at  Kyoto,  and  the  actual  administration  of 
affairs  was  in  the  hands  of  about  thirty  feudal  lords,  one  of 
whom  exercised  an  authority  under  the  title  of  Shogun  or  Ty- 
coon. He  found  the  nation  opposed  to  foreigners;  indeed 
the  very  sight  of  one  incensed  them.  Perry,  a  born  diplomat, 
believed  that  he  was  treating  with  the  highest  power  in  the 
land;  but  he  gained  his  end,  and  succeeded,  where  so  many 
others  had  failed,  in  opening  two  ports  to  American  trade. 
This  treaty,  which  changed  the  course  of  Japanese  history, 
was  signed  in  March,  1854.  An  American  had  opened  Japan 
to  the  world.  During  the  religious  controversies  of  the  six- 
teenth century,  "the  monks  said  that  Erasmus  laid  the  egg 
and  Luther  hatched  it."  "Yes,"  said  Erasmus,  "but  the  egg 
I  laid  was  a  hen;  and  Luther  hatched  a  game-cock." 

In  the  late  afternoon,  on  fine  days,  we  frequently  made  this 
excursion,  a  lovely  ride  by  kuruma,  with  two  men.  The  roads 
all  through  Japan  are  the  best  I  have  ever  seen — hard  and 
smooth.  The  route  lies  over  the  Bluff  and  through  a  pretty 
valley  of  small  farms  so  highly  cultivated  they  looked  like  well- 
kept  gardens.    Threshing  was  going  on  with  cheerful  clamor, 

59 


Un  JSamboo  Xanfcs. 


and  companies  of  children  lingered  about  watching  the  fun. 
The  grain  had  been  cut  and  laid  on  mats  in  the  open  spaces 
outside  the  barns,  and  men  and  women  were  hard  at  work 
separating  the  kernels  with  flails ;  another  method  is  to  place 
the  stalks  on  bamboo  frames  and  beat  them.  Leaving  the 
valley,  we  crossed  a  high  plateau  and  by  a  steep,  winding  hill 
reached  the  fishing  hamlet  of  Tomioka  on  Mississippi  Bay. 
noted  for  its  good  sea-bathing.  Our  favorite  resting-place 
was  the  broad  balcony  of  a  small  tea-house,  on  which  we  en- 
joyed the  sunset  and  the  inevitable  cup  of  tea.  Looking  north- 
ward and  eastward,  across  the  expanse  of  the  Bay,  the  view 
out  to  sea  was  charming.  The  whole  neighborhood  is  wonder- 
fully picturesque,  a  fair  spot  in  a  favored  land.  Lender  the 
high  cliffs,  whose  steep  sides  are  clothed  with  luxuriant  vege- 
tation, winds  the  narrow  path  by  which  we  returned  to  town. 
The  air  was  delightful,  and  the  ride  in  the  soft  evening  twi- 
light. "  sovereign  of  one  peaceful  hour,"  most  satisfying  to  the 
senses.  The  latter  half  of  the  route  is  much  travelled,  and  we 
met  numbers  of  bullock  carts,  pack-horses,  and  persons  on  foot. 

There  is  something  exceedingly  attractive  in  the  Japanese 
women.  We  secured  one  as  seamstress — a  rather  high-sound- 
ing title  for  a  person  who  knew  less  about  sewing  than  a  Yan- 
kee child  of  five.  All  day  long  she  squatted  on  a  lounge,  a  la 
Oriental,  and  worked  incessantly,  wearing  a  thimble  on  her 
forefinger  for  ornament  and  with  the  others  thrusting  the 
needle  laboriously  through  her  work.  We  managed  to  keep 
her  employed  for  several  days,  just  for  the  novelty  of  having 

such  a  bewitching  little  creature  to  look  at.     Her  head-dress 

60 


Hrounfc  Uokpo  Bay. 


was  remarkable.  The  shiny  hair,  as  black  as  ebony,  was 
drawn  up  and  back  into  a  stiff  design  that  seemed  almost  to 
affect  the  shape  of  the  eye.  The  hair,  which  is  loaded  with 
oil  and  bandolined  to  keep  it  in  place,  is  dressed  but  once  a 
week.  This  necessitates  the  rise  of  the  wooden  pillow  when 
sleeping,  a  block  of  curved  wood  on  which  the  neck  rests.  It 
must  be  decidedly  uncomfortable,  and  it  is  certainly  frightfully 
suggestive  of  the  ancient  execution  blocks  seen  in  the  Tower 
of  London.  Her  expression  was  one  of  peaceful  content,  and 
her  manner  so  shy  and  diffident  as  to  be  almost  embarrassing, 
at  times.  She  said  nothing,  accomplished  nothing,  and  appar- 
ently the  small  brain  that  lived  under  that  enormous  coiffure 
thought  nothing. 

By  invitation  we  visited  the  lacquer  factory  of  Kobayashi, 
where  most  of  the  costly  Yokohama  lacquer-ware  is  produced. 
It  was  a  ride  of  two  miles  across  the  city  to  the  factory,  which 
adjoins  the  proprietor's  house.  We  walked  through  the  fine 
garden,  in  which  various  cultivated  flowers  were  observed — 
among  which  were  some  beautiful  roses  and  many  varieties  of 
geraniums,  and  great  plots  of  chrysanthemums  not  yet  in  blos- 
som— to  the  long,  low,  ill-lighted  building  with  floor  of  earth, 
in  which  a  number  of  men  and  boys  were  at  work  on  articles 
in  all  stages  of  completion.  Mr.  Kobayashi  himself  very 
kindly  explained  the  process  to  us.  The  article  to  be  lac- 
quered is  made  either  of  wood  or  metal.  Then  a  hempen 
cloth  is  drawn  tightly  over  it  and  held  in  place  by  glue;  then 
the  successive  coats  of  lacquer  are  applied,  to  the  number  of 
twelve,  according  to  the  finish  required.    After  each  coat  is 

63 


fln  Bamboo  Xanfcs. 


put  on  the  article  is  placed  in  a  damp,  dark  room,  to  be 
thoroughly  dried  and  then  highly  polished  before  receiving 
another.  The  pattern  in  gold  or  silver  is  put  on  before  the 
last  coat  of  transparent  lacquer.  It  is  a  delicate  and  laborious 
process,  and  it  would  require  months  of  study  to  become  famil- 
iar with  the  art.  The  Oriental  workman  is  usually  engaged  in 
the  same  calling  that  his  ancestors  for  centuries  have  followed ; 
so  his  skill  is  inherited  as  well  as  acquired.  Both  the  art  and 
the  lacquer-tree  from  which  the  sap  is  extracted  were  intro- 
duced from  China  centuries  ago.  When  first  taken  from  the 
tree,  the  sap  is  of  the  color  and  consistency  of  cream  and  be- 
comes dark  by  exposure  to  the  air.  It  is  an  undoubted  fact 
that  lacquer  dries  most  quickly  in  a  damp,  dark  room.  Lac- 
quering upon  wood,  in  which  the  Japanese  excel  all  other 
nations,  is  considered  the  finest  of  all  their  arts.  Lacquer  is 
used  for  as  many  purposes  as  bamboo.  It  enriches  the  golden 
shrines  of  temples,  the  beautiful  articles  sold  in  the  shops,  and 
the  small  rice-bowl  of  the  humblest  coolie.  It  is  largely  ex- 
ported as  well.  After  we  had  carefully  inspected  the  factory 
and  its  treasures,  the  owner,  with  great  courtesy,  invited  us  to 
enter  his  house.  There  we  met  his  wife  and  daughters ;  tea 
and  sweetmeats  were  brought  in,  ancient  specimens  of  lacquer 
and  bronze  were  exhibited,  and  altogether  it  was  a  visit  long 
to  be  remembered  with  pleasure. 

The  vicinity  of  Yokohama  is  of  singular  beauty,  and  one 
very  pleasant  day  we  devoted  to  an  excursion  to  Kamakura 
and  Enoshima.    We  rode  twenty  miles  by  train  to  the  station 

and  there  took  kurumas  for  the  sight-seeing.    Kamakura  was 

64 


5 


Hrounfc  XTofepo  Bay. 


the  capital  of  the  Shoguns  from  1192  to  the  middle  of  the  fif- 
teenth century.  During  that  period  the  city,  with  its  popu- 
lation of  one  million,  occupied  the  plain  now  covered  with 
woods  and  rice-fields.    It  was  captured  and  partially  destroyed 


SHRINE  OF  YORITOMO. 


in  1333  by  two  Japanese  warriors,  Yoshisada  and  Ashikaga, 
the  latter  of  whom  founded  a  new  Shogunate  dynasty  (1338- 
1565).  The  great  military  generals  of  Japan  called  Shoguns 
virtually  ruled  the  country  for  a  period  of  seven  hundred  years, 
and  the    Mikados,  mere  figureheads,  lived  in  seclusion  at 

67 


In  bamboo  Xan&s. 

Kyoto.  This  state  of  affairs  lasted  until  the  revolution  of 
1868.  The  Mikado's  army  was  brilliantly  successful,  and  the 
furious  struggle  resulted  in  the  overthrow  of  the  Shogunate, 
the  restoration  of  the  Mikado  to  his  ancestral  rights,  and  the 

establishment  of  a  constitu- 
tional form  of  government 
modelled  upon  the  European. 
A  short  distance  from  the  sta- 
tion is  the  temple  of  Hachi- 
man,  a  deified  hero  worshipped 
as  the  god  of  war.  It  stands 
on  a  high  plateau  and  is 
reached  by  flights  of  fifty-eight 
stone  steps.  Many  of  the  trees 
that  cluster  about  it  are  cen- 
turies old;  one  in  particular, 
a  noble  icho,  twenty  feet  in 
circumference,  growing  to  the 
left  of  the  ascent,  is  said  to  be 
more  than  a  thousand  years 
old.  The  temple,  simple  in  architecture,  is  enclosed  by  a 
square  colonnade,  in  which  are  kept  the  sacred  cars  used  on 
festival  occasions.  We  were  also  shown  a  famous  collection 
of  religious  and  historical  relics,  among  which  were  a  num- 
ber of  ancient  and  curious  fans.  Fans  have  been  universally 
used  from  prehistoric  times ;  by  warriors,  priests  in  religious 
processions,  courtiers,  firemen,  and  every  man,  woman,  and 

child  in  the  kingdom.     One  of  our  party  was   engaged  in 

68 


Hrounfc  Uofepo  Bay. 


collecting  material  for  a  book  on  fans,  lanterns,  and  kindred 
subjects.  A  volume  could  be  written  on  fans  exclusively; 
their  history,  their  uses,  and  the  numberless  legends  and  tales 
connected  with  them.  I  leave  the  long  and  interesting  narra- 
tive to  her  facile  pen. 

For  the  military  of  Japan  this  temple  will  always  be  a 
sacred  place.  Its  treasury  looks  like  an  armory,  so  many  are 
the  weapons  that  have  been  placed  here  as  thank-offerings. 
Some  are  very  ancient  and  have  been  on  the  shelves  of  the 
temple  for  centuries.  There  is  nowhere  a  finer  collection  of 
arms,  and  an  inventory  of  the  valuables  that  are  stored  in  that 
shrine  is  a  roll  of  the  bravest  soldiers  of  the  realm. 

Less  than  two  miles  farther  on,  the  image  of  the  Great 
Buddha  stands  in  a  grove.  The  first  view  from  the  approach 
is  startling.  At  one  period  it  was  covered  by  a  temple,  long 
since  destroyed  by  a  tidal  wave.  This  colossal  image  is  com- 
posed of  gold,  silver,  and  copper  bronze,  forming  a  figure 
nearly  fifty  feet  in  height.  The  mouth  is  three  feet  two 
inches  in  width,  and  all  the  other  parts  are  in  corresponding 
proportion.  The  eyes  are  of  pure  gold.  The  figure,  formed 
of  bronze  plates  six  feet  in  height,  was  cast  on  the  spot.  The 
head-dress,  of  snail-shells  of  bronze,  is  there  to  protect  the 
holy  head  from  the  sun's  rays — an  offering  of  gratitude  to 
Buddha  for  his  love  and  care  for  animals  of  all  kinds.  The 
greatest  Buddhas  of  the  world  are  said  to  be  in  Japan.  The 
one  in  the  park  at  Nara  is  the  largest,  but  this  immense 
image  is  considered  the  best  work  of  art.  Buddha  is  repre- 
sented in  a  sitting  posture  gazing  over  the  plain — silent,  calm, 

7i 


1hi  Bamboo  Xanfcs, 


impenetrably  mysterious.  The  sacred  figure  is  hollow  and 
contains  a  small  shrine.  As  the  door  was  opened  for  us  to 
enter  we  passed  in,  examined  the  altar,  and  ascended  by  the 
stairs  into  the  head,  which  is  dark  and  the  home  of  myriads  of 
spiders ;  not  a  sound  was  to  be  heard  in  the  dimly  lighted  in- 
terior, and  we  left  it  duly  impressed  by  the  unique  equipment 
of  the  cranium.  As  it  was  customary  to  be  photographed  by 
the  priests  while  sitting  in  the  lap  of  Buddha,  we  were  "  honor- 
ably" pleased  to  climb  up  and  sit  on  his  "  august"  thumb 
during  the  process. 

On  an  eminence  commanding  a  fine  view  of  the  sea  and  in 
close  proximity  to  the  Daibutsu  (Great  Buddha)  is  the  temple 
of  Kwannon,  the  goddess  of  mercy.  The  dark  interior, 
lighted  by  a  few  candles,  gave  us  but  an  unsatisfactory  idea  of 
the  wooden  image  of  the  goddess,  thirty  feet  in  height  and 
lacquered  and  gilded.  These  temples  and  the  shaded  paths 
through  the  groves  were  in  perfect  order,  clean  and  tidy, 
showing  that  the  large  number  of  priests  who  reside  there  do 
not  neglect  their  duties.  It  was  both  novel  and  pleasant  to 
wander  about  among  the  shrines,  up  and  down  the  moss-grown 
steps  of  these  temples  of  wood,  as  well  preserved  as  if  but  a 
hundred  years  instead  of  a  thousand  had  passed  since  their 
completion.  We  slipped  into  our  little  carriages  and  were 
soon  on  our  way  to  Enoshima,  five  miles  distant,  riding  along 
the  seashore,  ascending  the  headlands,  where  the  maples 
already  tinged  with  yellow  heralded  the  approach  of  autumn, 
and  descending  again  to  the  water's  edge,  where  in  recesses, 

sheltered  within  a  shelter,  hamlets  clustered  under  the  cliffs. 

72 


At  a  tea-house  tinder  most  trying  circumstances  we  ate  the 
lunch  provided  by  our  hotel.  We  sat  on  the  floor-ledge,  stifled 
by  odors  of  frying  grease,  and  gazed  at  by  a  swarm  of  dirty 
children ;  while  the  coolies  a  few  feet  distant  bolted  with  mar- 
vellous rapidity  huge  quantities  of  boiled  rice,  dried  fish,  and 
pickled  daikon,  a  huge  radish  and  a  favorite  vegetable  with 
the  Japanese.  Leaving  the  kurumas,  we  with  our  guides 
crossed  the  rudely  constructed  bridge  that  connects  the  island 
of  Enoshima  with  the  mainland,  and  walked  up  a  steep,  narrow 
street  lined  with  shops,  in  which  shells,  corals,  and  other  marine 
wonders  are  sold,  the  most  attractive  of  which  is  the  lovely 
glass  rope  sponge,  whose  shiny,  silken  coils  are  found  on  reefs 
at  great  depth.  Our  expectations  were  fully  realized:  the 
island  is  very  beautiful.  Its  steep  precipices,  thickly  grown 
with  shrubs  and  ferns,  rise  abruptly  from  the  rocky  shore,  and 
the  high  ground  is  covered  with  forests.  The  moss-grown 
steps  and  winding  paths  that  lead  up  to  every  temple  and  little 
shrine  among  the  groves  were  most  alluring.  While  walking 
through  the  woods,  we  noticed  many  curious  land-crabs  with 
bright  red  bodies  that  made  great  haste  to  escape.  Traditions 
and  superstitions  without  end  are  connected  with  this  island, 
which  for  ages  has  been  sacred  to  Benten,  the  Buddhist  goddess 
of  luck.  In  1 182,  her  image  was  placed  in  a  cave  on  the  far 
side  of  the  island,  and  there  it  is  still  worshipped.  It  was  a 
wearisome  walk  of  two  miles,  up  and  down  long  flights  of  steps, 
through  streets  lined  with  shops  of  harassing  curio  dealers, 
down  to  the  shore,  where  we  clambered  along  a  rocky  path  some 
distance  to  the  cave.    The  cavity  is  thirty  feet  high  at  the 

75 


II ix  bamboo  Xanfcs. 


opening;,  three  hundred  and  seventy-two  feet  in  depth,  and  can 
be  entered  only  at  low  tide.  Attended  by  a  priest  with  lighted 
candle,  we  walked  along  the  narrow  scaffolding  to  the  extreme 
end,  where,  on  a  small  altar  in  total  darkness,  stands  the  sacred 
imag-e.  As  we  emerged  into  daylight,  the  view  from  the  in- 
terior across  to  the  opposite  shore  was  enchanting.  Both  go- 
ing and  returning,  we  were  beset  by  divers  of  both  sexes,  who 
for  a  small  coin  will  bring  up  shells  from  the  deep  sea;  the 
rogues  with  high  art  secrete  these  about  their  persons  before 
taking  the  leap. 

The  day  was  drawing  to  a  close  when  we  left  the  island, 
and  recrossed  the  bridge  wet  with  the  rising  tide.  A  ride  of 
two  miles  brought  us  to  the  station  of  Fujisawa,  where  we  took 
the  train  and  reached  Yokohama  just  as  the  sun,  like  a  ball  of 
polished  gold,  sank  below  the  sea. 

Yokohama  is  intersected  by  a  system  of  canals  on  which  a 
large  part  of  the  carrying-trade  is  done  with  sampans.  We 
hired  a  native  craft  one  day  and  were  sculled  for  some  dis- 
tance ;  but  the  evil  smells  from  open  drains  suggested  fevers, 
and  we  left  the  boat  in  disgust.  In  landing,  we  found  our- 
selves at  the  entrance  of  Motomachi,  the  most  interesting 
street  of  the  city.  The  small,  low  houses  extended  the  entire 
length ;  the  fronts  were  open,  and  in  each  some  little  patient 
industry  was  going  on  in  full  view.  We  found  much  pleasure 
in  wandering  among  the  shops  and  watching  the  tawny,  slant- 
eyed,  pleasant-faced  people  at  work  at  their  odd  trades  and 
handicrafts.    Coopers,  makers  of  idols,  baskets,  dolls,  wooden 

pillows  and  clogs,  straw  hats,  rain-coats  and  sandals,  trifles  of 

76 


THE  BRONZE  BELL. 


Hrounfc  TTofepo  Bay. 


bamboo  and  paper,  and  weavers  of  towels  were  all  industri- 
ously at  work.  Besides  these  articles,  books,  paper,  smoking 
and  writing  apparatus,  cheap  jewelry,  ornamental  hairpins, 


A  DAIKON  VENDER. 

switches  of  coarse  black  hair,  and  other  articles  of  personal 
adornment  were  for  sale.  Confectionery  and  food  had  place 
too;  and  from  the  restaurants  proceeded  the  most  horrible 
smell  imaginable,  that  of  pickled  daikon.  This  vegetable, 
which  so  strongly  resembles  our  radish,  is  about  two  feet  long 
and  in  its  natural  state  is  not  offensive ;  but  after  it  lies  in  brine 

79 


In  Bamboo  Xanfcs. 


for  three  months  the  odor  becomes  so  awful  that  no  foreigner 
can  endure  it.  It  is  grown  and  used  everywhere  by  the  peas- 
ants and  coolies,  and  serves  to  give  piquancy  to  their  other- 
wise tasteless  food.    You  cannot  mistake  it. 

A  charming  water  excursion  within  easy  reach  of  Yoko- 
hama is  that  to  Yokusuka,  where  are  located  the  government 
arsenal,  drydocks,  and  shipyards.  A  ride  of  fifteen  miles  by 
steamer  down  the  bay  brought  us  to  the  busy  spot.  We 
spent  a  short  hour  looking  about,  but  the  place  recalled  a  sec- 
tion of  the  Clyde,  and  we  had  not  travelled  all  the  way  to 
Japan  to  look  at  old  friends.  The  real  attraction  at  Yokusuka 
is  the  grave  of  Will  Adams,  the  first  Englishman  to  visit  the 
country.  Arriving  in  1600  as  pilot  of  a  Dutch  trading-vessel, 
he  was  detained  on  account  of  his  knowledge  of  ship-building 
and  mathematics,  and  became  a  great  favorite  with  the  Shogun ; 
but  he  was  never  permitted  to  return  to  his  wife  and  children 
in  Kent.  To  alleviate  his  grief,  he,  like  others  of  his  guild, 
accumulated  a  second  spouse,  a  Japanese,  with  whom  he  lived 
until  his  death,  twenty  years  later.  From  the  hilltop  on 
which  his  grave  stands  the  views  over  the  land  and  the  land- 
locked harbor  are  superb.  The  whole  environment  is  most 
picturesque.  The  weather  was  lovely.  September  smiled,  a 
smile  that  warmed  the  country-side  with  a  touch  of  the  dying 
summer.  We  returned  by  kuruma,  riding  leisurely  along  the 
network  of  farms  and  rice-fields,  stopping  frequently  to  visit 
shrines  hidden  among  the  trees,  or  at  tea-houses  to  allow  the 
coolies  to  rest.     The  charm  of  Japanese  scenery  is  irresistible. 

We  reached  our  hotel  in  the  cool  of  the  evening,  and  found  a 

80 


6 


note  from  our  consul  kindly  apprising-  us  that  the  fete  of 
Ieyasu  was  at  hand,  which  occurs  at  Nikko  but  once  a  year  and 
should  be  seen  at  any  sacrifice.  The  same  evening  we  visited 
a  Japanese  theatre,  where  the  play  begins  at  ten  in  the  morn- 
ing and  lasts  till  ten  at  night.  It  was  too  Europeanized  to  be 
interesting. 

83 


CHAPTER  III. 

NIKKO  AND  THE  NORTH. 

We  travelled  by  rail  to  Nikko,  one  hundred  and  eight  miles 
to  the  north.  Part  of  this  line,  the  section  of  eighteen  miles 
between  Yokohama  and  Tokyo,  was  the  first  bit  of  railroad  con- 
structed in  Japan.  It  was  built  by  foreign  experts,  who 
charged  an  exorbitant  sum.  As  the  track  runs  over  a  level 
country  and  labor  is  absurdly  cheap,  the  government  was  not 
long  in  discovering  the  gigantic  fraud,  and  since  then  it  has 
built  its  own  roads.  Both  for  military  and  commercial  purposes, 
Japan  has  constructed  fifteen  hundred  miles  of  railroad  and  is 
constantly  extending  the  lines.  These  roads  are  all  narrow- 
gauge,  about  three  feet  wide,  and  organized  on  the  English  plan 
with  first,  second,  and  third  class  compartments.  The  stations 
are  roomy  and  neat  and  provided  with  separate  waiting-rooms 
for  each  class.  All  baggage  except  that  carried  by  hand  is 
weighed  and  sealed  in  Japanese  hieroglyphics  with  the  name 
of  its  destination.  The  officials  are  natives  in  European  dress. 
The  stations  are  thronged  with  passengers,  who  clatter  along 
on  wooden  sandals  and  make  a  most  deafening  noise.  Japa- 
nese shoes  vary  for  the  use.  Wooden  clogs  are  ordinarily  worn, 
but  straw  sandals,  costing  a  sen  a  pair,  are  used  in  walking  or 

mountain  climbing.    A  few  men  were  dressed  in  ill-fitting 

84 


CO 
2 

cr 

UJ 

h 

z: 
< 


LU 

N 


IRikfeo  anfc>  tbe  IKortb. 


coats  and  trousers,  but  generally  they  wore  the  kimona,  topped' 
by  the  utterly  abominable  derby,  the  only  part  of  European 
dress  that  has  become  popular.  The  women  without  excep- 
tion wore  the  native  dress  and  protected  their  bare  heads  from 
the  glare  of  the  sunshine  by  holding  a  fan  between  them  and 
the  sun.  In  absence  of  a  derby,  the  men  used  fans  also.  The 
natives  are  now  becoming  accustomed  to  glass,  but  at  first 
the  panes  in  railway-car  windows  had  to  be  smeared  with  paint, 
to  prevent  the  passengers  from  poking  their  heads  through. 
There  is  a  general  system  of  telegraph  lines,  and  the  wires 
extend  twenty-five  thousand  miles. 

The  journey  to  Nikko,  the  City  of  Temples,  was  full  of 
interest,  as  the  railway  passes  through  the  finest  farming  dis- 
trict in  Japan.  The  country  is  beautifully  broken,  highly  fer- 
tile, and  cultivated  like  a  garden.  Not  an  inch  of  ground  runs 
to  waste ;  not  a  weed  is  to  be  seen.  Superb  groves  of  maples, 
elms,  and  beeches  adorn  the  uplands,  and  tiny  farms  dotted 
with  thatched  roofs  cover  the  continuous  green  plain.  The 
fields  are  of  all  sizes,  from  a  plot  twenty  feet  square  to  an  acre 
or  more,  and  outlined  by  ditches  in  which  the  lotus  is  grown 
for  food.  It  is  a  land  of  small  things.  The  people,  the 
country,  the  farms,  the  animals,  the  houses,  the  gardens,  the 
carriages,  and  all  the  articles  used  in  daily  life  are  small.  As 
one  goes  along  one  sees  rice-fields,  tea-plantations,  orchards  of 
fine  fruit,  excellent  vineyards,  and  every  kind  of  vegetable. 
The  grape-vines  rest  on  horizontal  bamboo  frames,  and  pear- 
trees  even  are  trained  on  trellises. 

It  was  harvest  time,  and  great  bunches  of  rice-straw  hung 

87 


In  JBamboo  Slan&s* 


on  the  trees  and  tences  to  dry,  and  hayricks  crowded  the  tiny 
dooryards.  The  lovely  green  bamboo  fringed  the  banks  of 
streams  or  waved  in  great  clumps  on  the  hillsides,  and  flowers 
grew  on  the  ridges  between  the  rice-fields  and  in  every  available 
spot,  even  on  the  thatched  roof-crests.  The  dwellings  of  the 
rich  farmers  were  not  unfrequently  surrounded  by  tall  hedges 
or  high  palisades,  and  only  the  deep-sloping  roofs  were  visible, 
half-hidden  among  the  trees.  The  train  glided  along  until  we 
reached  Utsonomiya,  where  we  engaged  kurumas  and  two  men 
from  the  clamoring  crowd  and  started  on  the  last  stage  of  our 
journey,  a  long  up-hill  ride  of  twenty-five  miles.  The  road  we 
travelled  is  an  ancient  highway,  bordered  along  its  whole 
length  by  rows  of  magnificent  cryptomerias  (a  variety  of  pine), 
which  form  a  pleasant  shade.  These  trees  grow  to  a  height 
of  one  hundred  feet,  reaching  sixty  feet  before  they  begin  to 
branch.  They  were  planted  by  a  nobleman  as  an  offering  to 
the  great  Shoguns  who  rest  in  bronze  tombs  on  the  sacred  hills. 
It  is  estimated  that  one  hundred  thousand  pilgrims  travel  this 
road  each  year  to  the  shrines,  and  a  grander  approach  could 
not  have  been  devised.  We  encountered  a  few  pack-horses 
and  man-carts,  and  troops  of  people  on  foot  on  their  way  to 
take  part  in  the  coming  festivities.  Few  houses  were  to  be 
seen  as  we  toiled  slowly  upward,  and  little  by  little  I  fell  into 
a  state  of  drowsiness,  almost  forgetting  where  I  was  or  whither 
I  was  going.  We  mounted  the  steep  street  of  Nikk5  at  the 
foot  of  the  Nikko-zan  range  of  mountains,  the  site  of  the  most 
gorgeous  temples  in  the  land.  Nikko,  which  lies  in  a  lovely 
valley  at  an  elevation  of  two  thousand  feet  above  the  sea,  is  a 


IFitfefeo  anfc  tbe  IRortb. 

favorite  summer  residence  of  foreigners  on  account  of  its  cool 
mountain  air,  and  we  noticed  many  fine  villas  embowered  in 
shrubbery.  It  was  here  that  I  had  an  unpleasant  experience 
with  my  kurumayas,  who  proved  to  be  runners  for  one  hotel, 
while  I  had  secured  rooms  at  another.  The  rain  was  falling, 
my  party  in  advance  had  turned  off  the  road  and  disappeared 
around  the  corner,  and  the  coolies  sped  straight  ahead  as  fast 
as  their  legs  could  carry  them,  in  spite  of  entreaties  and  cries  of 
"Mate!"  ("Stop).  They  were  speedily  brought  to  reason  by 
vigorous  strokes  of  my  umbrella  on  their  lightly  clad  shoulders. 
It  was  almost  as  exciting  as  an  encounter  with  donkey-boys  in 
Cairo.  We  alighted  at  the  semi-European  hotel  and  were  re- 
ceived by  little  waiting-maids,  wTho  met  us  with  a  "  smile  well- 
bred,  "  bowed  any  number  of  times  to  us,  escorted  us  to  seats, 
relieved  us  of  wet  wraps  and  umbrellas ;  and  vanished.  The 
climate  is  very  rainy,  and  next  day  we  needed  the  articles  bad- 
ly ;  failing  to  make  our  wants  understood,  we  raided  the  back 
regions  and  found  the  lost  garments  hung  up  to  dry  among  a 
medley  of  native  bric-a-brac.  One  meets  with  more  adventures, 
and  sees  more  that  is  laugh- worthy  in  Japan  than  in  any  coun- 
try of  which  I  have  a  knowledge.  After  the  landlord  had  ex- 
amined the  passports  and  decided  it  was  safe  to  receive  us — 
we  were  gratified  to  find  him  so  kindly  disposed  toward  us — he 
ushered  us  into  pleasant  rooms  opening  on  a  veranda  that 
commanded  a  fine  view  over  the  valley  through  which  the 
river  rushes.  Grand  old  mountains,  densely  covered  with 
wood,  surrounded  us,  and  the  unique  little  village  of  Irimachi 
lay  at  our  feet.     Everything  was  lovely — the  birds  and  grass. 

91 


1fn  JSamboo  Xanfcs, 


and  delicious  temperature ;  and  each  day,  returned  from  sight- 
seeing, we  gathered  there  to  see  the  mountains  illuminated  by 
the  last  glow  of  sunset  and  to  enjoy  the  freshly  made  tea  and 
a  brief  siesta. 

The  morning  after  our  arrival  we  made  our  first  visit  to  the 
hillslope  where  the  Shoguns  Ieyasu  and  his  grandson  Iemitsu 
sleep  in  glory.  A  Shinto  shrine  of  the  ancient  religion  has  ex- 
isted here  from  the  earliest  ages,  and  a  Buddhist  since  716 
a.d.,  at  which  time  a  temple  was  erected  by  the  saint  Shodo 
Shonin.  Buddhism,  which  was  introduced  into  the  empire 
from  China,  wisely  absorbed  the  primitive  Shinto,  but  did  not 
supplant  it.  This  spot  attained  its  greatest  sanctity  in  161 7, 
when  it  became  the  resting-place  of  Ieyasu,  who  was  deified  by 
the  Mikado  as  "  Light  of  the  East,  great  incarnation  of  Bud- 
dha."  Ieyasu  was  first  buried  at  Kunozan  in  the  south,  and 
the  shrines  there  erected  in  his  honor  furnished  models  for 
those  at  Nikko.  In  161 7,  his  remains  were  interred  in  this 
beautiful  spot.  It  must  have  been  a  magnificent  burial.  A 
vast  number  of  priests  in  gorgeous  robes,  the  imperial  envoy, 
the  living  Shogun,  and  a  long  train  of  noblemen  with  two- 
sworded  retainers,  followed  the  remains  of  the  dead  warrior  up 
the  grand  avenue  of  cryptomerias  to  the  mausoleum  on  the 
lonely  hillside,  where  they  were  deposited  with  all  the  impress- 
iveness  of  the  gorgeous  Buddhist  ritual.  There  are  several  ap- 
proaches to  the  temples,  but  the  grand  avenue  begins  at  the 
sacred  "Red  Bridge,"  a  wooden  structure  resting  on  stone 
piers  and  lacquered  a  deep  red,  making  a  strong  contrast  to 

the  rich  green  of  the  pines.     It  is  closed  at  both  ends  by  gates, 

92 


IKtfefeo  ant>  tbe  IRortb. 

which  are  opened  but  once  a  year  to  allow  the  great  annual 
procession  to  pass  over  it.  The  main  avenue  is  terraced  with 
stone  and  shaded  by  groves  of  cryptomerias  that  overhang  the 
moss-grown  embankments.  Half-way  up  is  a  small  belfry 
with  an  enormous  sloping  roof  richly  ornamented  with  bronze 
plates  bearing  the  crest  of  Ieyasu,  in  which  hangs  a  fine  bronze 
bell.  The  method  of  ringing  it  is  unique :  a  huge  log  of  wood 
is  suspended  outside  the  bell  at  such  an  angle  that  when  pulled 
out  it  will  on  the  rebound  strike  the  bell  on  a  certain  spot, 
making  a  fine,  clear  tone  that  can  be  heard  at  a  great  distance. 
At  the  summit,  where  the  avenue  divides,  is  a  massive  granite 
torii,  a  symbol  of  Shintoism,  twenty-seven  and  one-half  feet  in 
height ;  and  to  the  left  is  a  graceful  five-storied  pagoda  rising, 
tier  on  tier  of  lessening  stories,  to  a  height  of  one  hundred  and 
four  feet.  The  eaves  of  the  lower  story  are  decorated  with 
painted  carvings  of  the  twelve  signs  of  the  zodiac :  the  rat,  ox, 
tiger,  hare,  dragon,  serpent,  horse,  goat,  ape,  cock,  dog,  and 
pig.  We  walked  on  between  rows  of  stone  lanterns  to  the 
entrance  of  the  grounds,  where  the  priests  sell  tickets  of  ad- 
mission. Provided  with  the  quaint  scraps  of  paper,  we 
mounted  the  handsome  stone  steps  and  passed  through  the 
"  Gate  of  the  Two  Kings,"  which  still  retains  the  name,  although 
the  original  figures  have  been  replaced  by  hideous  images — 
monsters  with  huge  ugly  mouths,  supposed  to  have  power  to 
frighten  away  demons.  It  might  improve  the  landscape  if  they 
would  perpetrate  their  special  gift  on  each  other.  In  the  large 
paved  courtyard  stand  three  handsome  buildings  with  sloping 
tiled  roofs.    Under  the  eaves  of  the  largest  are  painted  carv- 

95 


1Tn  Bamboo  Xanfcs, 

ings  of  elephants,  represented  with  the  hind  legs  turned  the 
wrong  way.  The  work  is  attributed  to  the  famous  left- 
handed  artist  Hidari  Jingoro,  and  is  considered  very  artistic. 
Two  of  the  buildings  are  treasure  houses,  in  which  are  stored 
relics  of  Ieyasu  and  the  numberless  properties  belonging  to  the 
temple.  Arranged  in  rows  about  the  court  are  one  hundred 
and  eighteen  magnificent  bronze  lanterns  with  massive  stone 
bases,  placed  there  by  noblemen  in  honor  of  Ieyasu  and  lighted 
on  festive  occasions.  The  stable,  in  which  the  sacred  white 
pony  is  kept  for  the  use  of  the  god,  is  decorated  with  life-like 
carvings  of  monkeys,  represented  as  covering  their  eyes,  ears, 
and  mouths  with  their  hands.  Stone  slabs  with  the  "blind 
monkey,"  the  "deaf  monkey, "  and  the  "dumb  monkey"  are 
noticed  by  the  roadside  in  rural  districts  throughout  Japan, 
the  idea  being  that  this  unique  trinity  neither  see,  hear,  nor 
speak  any  evil.  They  are  known  by  the  name  of  San-goku  no 
saru.  Near  by  is  the  famous  holy-water  cistern  fashioned  out 
of  solid  granite  and  supplied  by  the  Shiraito,  or  "  White  Thread 
Cascade,"  on  the  mountain.  The  water  overflows  its  sides  so 
evenly,  it  seems  to  be  almost  a  part  of  the  stone  itself.  We 
passed  under  a  fine  bronze  torii  to  the  Kyozo,  a  handsome 
building  containing  a  complete  collection  of  Buddhist  scrip- 
tures. The  combination  of  art,  architecture,  and  rich  coloring 
in  this  courtyard  is  a  revelation  of  beauty.  A  pretty  feature 
of  the  place  is  the  soft  tinkle  of  golden  wind-bells  that  hang 
along  the  eaves.  Still  farther  on,  up  another  flight  of  steps,  is 
a  smaller  court,  partly  enclosed  by  a  stone  balustrade.  In  this 
court,  crowded  with  beautiful  objects  of  marvellous  workman- 

96 


7 


IFUfefeo  anfc  tbe  Worth* 

ship,  we  noticed  particularly  a  bronze  candelabrum,  a  gift  of  the 
King  of  Loochoo,  a  bell  from  the  King  of  Korea,  and  a  huge 
candlestick  from  Holland.  "  Old  Japan"  considered  these 
three  kingdoms  her  vassals.  Dazzled  with  luxury,  we  ascended 
still  another  flight  of  steps  to  the  wondrously  beautiful  two- 
storied  Yomeimon  gate,  ornate  with  lines  of  beauty,  intricate 
traceries,  graceful  arabesques,  and  marvellous  carvings  of 
Chinese  sages,  groups  of  children,  dragons'  heads,  and  mythi- 
cal beasts.  The  cloisters  on  either  side  are  elaborately  orna- 
mented with  showy  carvings  of  flowers  and  birds  painted  in 
natural  colors  and  harmonized  with  unsurpassed  art.  Passing 
through  the  gate,  we  entered  a  courtyard  containing  several 
buildings,  one  of  which  is  reserved  for  the  kagura,  or  sacred 
dance,  of  ancient  date.  The  dancer  was  a  priestess,  also  of 
ancient  date.  She  wore  wide  trousers  of  silk,  overdress  of 
some  light  material,  a  wreath  of  artificial  flowers,  and  alter- 
nately held  in  her  hands  fans  or  strings  of  bells.  She  postured 
and  waved  her  gauzy  mantle,  made  strange  passes  with  fans 
and  bells,  while  priests,  squatted  in  a  semicircle,  beat  drums 
and  groaned  hymns  in  unison.  The  music  was  melancholy 
and  weird,  the  performance  tedious  and  absurd.  In  another 
building  we  were  shown  the  sacred  cars  used  in  religious  pro- 
cessions and  supposed  to  be  occupied  by  the  deities  who  are 
expected  annually  to  grace  the  occasion. 

In  the  centre  of  the  court  is  the  sacred  enclosure,  or  holy 
of  holies,  containing  the  chapel,  which  we  entered  by  the 
splendid  Karamon  gate,  constructed  of  precious  woods  from 
China,  beautifully  inlaid  with  flowers  and  birds  in  relief,  each 

99 


In  bamboo  Xanfcs. 


finished  with  the  same  patient,  loving  care  of  decoration.  We 
removed  our  foot-gear  before  treading  on  the  moss-like  mats 
of  the  antechamber,  that  have  never  been  desecrated  by  bar- 
barian boots.  The  walls  and  ceilings  are  lavishly  ornamented 
with  bronzes,  carvings,  frescoes,  and  gold  and  black  lacquer. 
We  gazed  and  wondered  at  the  skill  that  arranged  this  har- 
monious coloring  and  luxuriance  of  decoration.  Within  the 
oratory  there  is  neither  furniture  nor  ornament,  except  the 
universal  emblem  of  Shintoism,  the  gohei,  solidly  gilt  and  at- 
tached to  a  long  wand  (the  ordinary  one  to  be  seen  in  every 
Shinto  shrine  is  composed  of  twisted  strips  of  gilt  paper),  and 
a  black-lacquered  table,  on  which  stands  a  lonely  Shinto  mirror. 
The  cool  dimness  of  the  interior  and  the  atmosphere  of  an- 
tiquity remain  indelibly  impressed  on  my  mind.  We  had  ex- 
hausted our  vocabulary  and  ourselves  in  admiration  of  these 
matchless  shrines ;  yet  all  this  splendor  is  but  a  prelude  to  the 
tomb  itself,  on  the  summit  of  the  sacred  hill.  It  is  reached  by 
returning  to  the  courtyard,  passing  through  an  old  doorway, 
over  which  is  a  famous  carving  of  a  sleeping  cat,  the  chef 
d ' cenvre  of  the  left-handed  artist  Hidari  Jingoro,  and  ascend- 
ing two  hundred  and  twenty  moss-grown  steps  to  the  mauso- 
leum, where  rest  the  ashes  of  the  greatest  ruler  Japan  ever 
produced. 

The  tomb  is  of  massive  stone  surmounted  by  a  pagoda- 
shaped  urn  of  the  finest  gold,  silver  and  copper  bronze.  In 
front,  on  a  low  stone  table,  are  a  bronze  incense-burner,  a  vase 
of  bronze  with  lotus  flowers  and  leaves  in  brass,  and  a  bronze 
tortoise  supporting  a  stork.    This  last-mentioned  ornament  is 

IOO 


IRtfeko  anfc  tbe  IRortb, 


seen  frequently  in  temples,  and  typifies  "  length  of  days. "  The 
enclosure  is  surmounted  by  a  lofty  stone  wall  with  balustrade, 
and  shaded  by  grand  old  cryptomerias  and  a  luxuriant  growth 
of  azaleas  and  bamboo  grass.  This  unadorned  tomb  of  the 
mighty  Shogun  standing  in  silence  and  in  shade  above  and  be- 
hind the  splendid  red-lacquered  temples  raised  in  his  honor  is 
a  stately  finish  to  this  exquisite  creation.  We  retraced  our 
steps  by  the  massive  stairways  gray  with  lichen,  each  stone 
fitted  with  such  exactness,  and  without  mortar,  as  to  stand  the 
wear  and  tear  of  nearly  three  centuries  without  displacement, 
down  through  the  temple  courts  to  the  main  avenue. 

The  temples  of  Iemitsu,  in  close  proximity  to  those  of 
Ieyasu,  are  reached  by  an  avenue  that  branches  from  the  grand 
approach.  On  the  right  are  two  temples  of  the  Shinto  faith, 
plain  but  of  much  interest.  On  the  left  is  a  red-lacquered 
building  dedicated  to  Amida  in  which  are  preserved  the  bones 
of  Yoritomo,  the  founder  of  the  Shogunate,  a  shrewd,  un- 
scrupulous, ambitious  personage.  A  flight  of  steps  leads  to 
the  entrance  guarded  on  either  side  by  two  gigantic  wooden 
figures  painted  a  bright  red  and  standing  in  niches.  In  the 
inner  court  we  noticed  a  massive  stone  water-basin. 

Another  flight  of  steps  brought  us  to  the  gate  called  Niten- 
mon,  whose  four  handsomely  finished  niches  are  occupied  by 
mythological  figures  of  gods.  Those  of  wind  and  thunder,  mak- 
ing a  great  display  of  teeth,  are  the  most  absurd  of  the  quar- 
tette.   The  coloring  is  intense. 

Passing  through  the  courtyard,  we  ascended  successive 

flights  of  steps  to  the  splendid  Yashamon  gate,  the  most  beau- 

103 


1fn  Bamboo  SLanfcs. 


tiful  of  the  series.  The  oratory  and  chapel  are  as  magnifi- 
cently decorated  as  those  of  Ieyasu,  and  brilliant  with  all  the 
gorgeous  paraphernalia  of  Buddhist  worship.  The  temples  of 
Ieyasu,  dedicated  in  later  years  to  Shintoism,  have  been  shorn 
•of  ornaments,  but  those  of  Iemitsu  still  remain  in  Buddhist 
hands. 

The  bronze  tomb,  reached  by  ascending  more  nights  of 
■steps,  is  enclosed  by  high  stone  walls  and  shaded  by  a  wealth 
of  cryptomerias. 

After  seeing  the  tomb,  we  went  by  special  permission  to  in- 
spect the  treasures  in  the  Tamayu  of  Iemitsu.  The  iron  store- 
room contains  a  second  smaller  room,  on  "  whose  walls  are 
hung  about  twenty  of  the  finest  examples  of  decorative  painting 
that  could  be  achieved  by  the  Japanese  artists  of  the  seven- 
teenth century,  working  without  the  smallest  concern  for  time 
or  expense.  The  subjects  depicted  are  all  Buddhistic.  Gold  is 
profusely  used,  and  used  with  a  firmness,  directness,  and  fine- 
ness of  stroke  that  are  absolutely  marvellous.  The  colors  are 
wonderfully  rich  and  mellow ;  indeed,  the  best  of  the  pictures 
seem  to  radiate  a  perfect  glow  of  brilliancy,  without,  however, 
the  slightest  approach  to  garishness  or  obtrusiveness.  The 
original  silk  on  which  the  picture  is  painted  is  not  suffered  to 
appear  at  all,  being  completely  covered  with  microscopic  illu- 
mination or  beautifully  designed  brocades  in  glorious  colors. 
The  borders,  which  in  ordinary  pictures  consist  of  rich  fabrics, 
are  here  replaced  by  hand-painting  inconceivably  accurate  and 
minute.    The  artist,  in  fact,  took  a  single  piece  of  seamless 

.silk,  specially  woven  for  the  purpose,  perhaps  eight  feet  long 

104 


MOSS-GROWN  STEPS  TO  THE  TOMB.  IEYASU. 


nmo  ant)  tbe  novth. 


and  four  wide,  and  covered  the  entire  surface  with  illuminated 
painting,  from  the  elaborate  borders  of  scrolls  and  diapers  to 
the  central  deity  clothed  in  raiment  of  gold  cloth,  every  line  of 
which  is  faithfully  produced.  In  the  same  storeroom  are  many 
other  objects  of  beauty  and  interest ;  for  example,  a  number  of 
illuminated  scrolls  enclosed  in  a  lacquer  case  that  is  of  itself  a 
marvel ;  some  boxes  of  the  most  exquisite  filigree  metal-work ; 
and  the  norimono,  in  which  the  mortuary  tablet  of  Iemitsu  Avas 
carried  to  the  shrine." 

All  this  gives  but  a  faint  idea  of  the  magnificent  care  lav- 
ished by  the  men  of  old  on  the  mausolea  of  their  ancestors. 

This  aggregation  of  gates,  bronze  lanterns,  superb  temples 
and  their  rich  contents,  are  fully  equal  to  those  of  Ieyasu.  No 
pen  can  adequately  describe  these  glorious  shrines  in  their  deep 
green  setting  of  cryptomerias,  this  expression  of  a  racial  genius, 
and  all  attempts  must  begin  in  utter  despair  and  end  in  abso- 
lute failure.  Nor  can  one  compare  them  with  that  world-re- 
nowned temple-tomb  of  India,  the  Taj  Mahal,  for  they  have 
not  a  single  detail  in  common.  We  remained  a  week  at  Nikko 
and  visited  the  temples  each  day,  and  each  day  became  more 
enchanted. 

The  festival  of  Ieyasu  took  place  as  advertised.  A  slight 
shower  had  passed  and  the  day  was  faultless.  Midway  up  the 
grand  avenue  the  hotel  had  provided  benches  and  refresh- 
ments, and  there,  toward  noon,  Ave  assembled  and  AA^aited. 
Soon  AA'ith  hea\ren-piercing  shouts,  a  croAA'd  of  men  and  boys 
appeared,  dragging  a  large  pine-tree  up  the  aA'enue  and  fol- 

loAAred  by  a  multitude  of  people  eager  to  secure  branchlets  as 

107 


Hn  bamboo  Xanfcs, 

charms  against  evil  spirits.  So  great  was  their  success  that, 
upon  reaching  the  summit,  the  stalk  was  bare.  The  echo  of 
the  shouts  had  scarcely  died  away  when  the  grand  entrance- 
gate  was  thrown  open,  and  the  religious  procession  was  seen 
to  leave  the  grounds  and  move  down  the  avenue.  If  you  wish 
to  see  something  that  will  divert  you,  you  should  witness  a 
festival  of  this  nature.  It  was  one  of  those  pageants  peculiar 
to  Japan,  a  sort  of  religious  masquerade,  "  like  a  reflection  of 
the  magnificence  of  the  past ;  serving  to  remind  the  people  of 
the  traditions,  the  personages,  and  the  illustrious  events  of 
early  times."  I  expect  never  to  see  the  like  again.  The  pro- 
cession approached  with  music  and  waving  banners.  At  the 
head  were  priests,  mounted  on  the  sacred  ponies  and  clothed 
in  gold-brocaded  robes,  or  in  crimson  silk  chasubles  and  white 
cassocks,  and  followed  by  a  retinue  in  bright-yellow  gowns  and 
black-lacquered  caps,  holding  aloft  huge  temple  fans  on  long 
-poles  that  were  curious  and  characteristic.  Warriors,  dressed 
and  armed  in  the  ancient  style,  played  their  part,  too,  in  this 
fantastic  show.  Then  came  men  and  boys  wearing  masques 
and  quaint  costumes  of  three  hundred  years  ago,  belonging  to 
the  temple  and  worn  only  on  festival  days.  They  waved  ban- 
ners and  curious  flag-shaped  ornaments  used  in  temples; 
others  carried  live  birds  and  monkeys,  or  walked  in  pairs, 
partly  hidden  under  the  skins  of  ferocious  beasts.  Scattered 
at  intervals  were  the  sacred  cars,  huge  structures  built  on 
wooden  wheels,  with  temple-like  roofs,  black-lacquered  bodies, 
valances  of  rich  needlework,  gorgeous  old  draperies  of  red  and 

yellow  silk,  and  drawn  along  by  strings  of  devotees.    Bands  of 

1 08 


TOMB  OF  IEYASU. 


IRifefeo  ant)  tbe  IRortb. 


music  in  the  procession  made  a  most  horrible  din  with  gongs 
and  others  with  drums  slung  on  a  pole  on  which  others  banged; 
and  scores  of  primitive  flutes  and  fifes  squeaked  to  bring  out 
the  noise  with  livelier  intensity.  There  is  no  difficulty  which 
may  not  be  overcome  by  determination!  The  train  was  at 
least  a  mile  in  length,  and  along  the  avenue  flowed  an  im- 
mense crowd,  which  had  come  from  every  part  of  the  country 
to  enjoy  this  celebrated  festival.  The  procession  marched 
slowly  over  the  sacred  "  Red  Bridge"  and  through  the  town, 
holding  high  carnival  until  evening.  The  fete  lasted  but  one 
day,  and  closed  that  night  with  a  grand  illumination  of  the 
temples  and  grounds.  Innumerable  huge,  gay-colored  paper 
lanterns  flashed  light  from  every  building  and  gateway,  the 
pagoda,  the  trees  that  line  the  stairways  to  the  tomb,  and  the 
tomb  itself.  Hundreds  of  bronze  and  stone  lanterns  added 
their  quota  of  light ;  and  the  vast  crowd  carried  small  lighted 
lanterns  of  paper.  The  soft  breeze  swayed  the  golden  wind- 
bells,  and  from  the  main  avenue  floated  upward  the  deep  tones 
of  the  great  bronze  bell.  We  walked  up  through  this  materi- 
alized fairyland  to  the  summit  of  the  hill  and  looked  down 
the  long  green  vista  of  the  pines  over  the  brilliantly  lighted 
grounds.  It  was  a  sight  rare  and  impressive — a  beautiful 
spectacle,  such  as  the  Champs  Elysees  all  en  fete,  one  blaze  of 
.light,  could  not  rival. 

Nikko  and  its  environs  have  endless  attractions.  It  has 
lofty  mountains,  deep  valleys,  cascades  gliding  down  the  hill- 
sides and  foaming  over  rocks ;  frolicsome  little  rivulets  scatter 

through  the  beautiful  groves,  and  the  paths  and  dells  are  endless. 

in 


Ifn  Bamboo  Xanfcs, 


Our  favorite  walk  was  along  the  sacred  river,  a  clear  moun- 
tain stream  that  rushes  noisily  between  banks  of  mighty  rocks. 
Arranged  in  a  long  row  are  hundreds  of  sacred  images  of 
Amida,  a  powerful  deity  who  dwells  in  a  lovely  paradise  to  the 
west.  These  worn  and  moss-grown  figures,  roughly  hewn 
from  stone,  have  for  ages  contemplated  the  "  sunny  splendor" 
of  that  marvellous  valley.  It  is  difficult  to  describe  the  effect 
produced  by  them.  It  is  said  to  be  impossible  to  count  these 
images,  never  twice  alike,  but  we  had  reason  to  believe  that 
this  legend  applies  only  to  devout  Buddhists.  We  don't  know 
exactly  how  it  was,  but  one  day,  while  examining  them  close- 
ly, a  head  fell  off  and  we  sprang  aside  just  in  time  to  save  our 
toes.  After  recovering  sufficiently  from  the  excitement,  we 
reverently  replaced  it,  that  future  visitors  might  miss  none  of 
the  diversions. 

Another  pleasant  walk  was  through  the  village  street, 
where  we  spent  hours  in  the  shops,  particularly  those  in  which 
photographic  views  were  sold.  Every  evening  the  hotel  corri- 
dors were  thronged  with  dealers  in  pretty  curios  and  in  articles 
made  from  skins  and  a  black  fossil  wood  from  Sendai.  We 
selected  a  few,  which  we  purchased  for  much  less  than  the  price 
demanded.  A  Japanese  can  always  buy  of  his  countrymen  for 
half  the  price  which  a  foreigner  is  asked  to  pay,  and  even 
then,  so  cheap  is  skilled  labor,  the  dealer  makes  a  very  satis-  . 
factory  profit. 

We  made  a  day's  excursion  to  lovely  waterfalls  in  the  vicin- 
ity. The  abundant  moisture  of  this  locality  covers  the  hills  to 
their  summits  with  pines,  maples,  bamboo,  and  wild  azaleas  in 

I  T  2 


8 


Itttkko  anfc  tbe  IttortFx 


great  profusion.  It  was  a  charming  ride  by  kuruma  around 
the  base  of  Toyama  to  a  tea-house  that  commands  a  fine  view 
of  Kirifuri-no-taki,  or  "The  Mist-Falling  Cascade. "  As  soon 
as  we  alighted,  attendants  brought  on  lacquered  trays  tea 
(without  sugar  or  milk),  which  we  had  learned  to  like,  and 
sweetmeats  that  we  thought  insipid.  We  soon  became  accus- 
tomed to  the  bitter  flavor  of  green  tea,  and  it  was  well  we  did, 
as  there  are  few  countries  where  water  is  so  dangerous  to 
drink,  without  boiling.  From  the  balcony  we  enjoyed  watch- 
ing the  waterfall  as  it  made  its  trial  plunge  and  piled  itself  on 
the  rocks  below.  On  taking  our  departure  we  placed  on  the 
tray  the  expected  small  coin.  For  a  nearer  view,  we  walked 
along  a  steep,  rough  path  to  the  foot  of  the  cascade,  which  falls 
over  a  cliff  carpeted  with  rare  ferns  and  every  species  of  moss, 
kept  ever  green  by  the  spray,  that  can  find  foothold  in  the 
crevices  of  the  rocks.  Birds  chirped  overhead,  and  we  lingered 
long  in  that  secluded  retreat  of  marvellous  beauty. 

A  tramp  of  two  miles  through  woods  and  densely  shaded 
ravines,  crossing  and  recrossing  an  erratic  little  stream  of 
many  bendings  and  aspects,  brought  us  to  Makura-no-taki,  or 
the  "Pillow  Cascade,"  sixty  feet  in  height.  Picturesque  as  it 
is,  it  is  not  a  paradise.  Serpents  lurk  among  the  wild  flowers 
and  lie  on  the  rocks,  and  one  of  a  poisonous  species  that 
crawled  leisurely  across  the  path  threw  a  barefooted  coolie  into 
paroxysms  of  fear. 

From  Nikko  it  is  usual  to  make  an  excursion  to  Lakes  Chu- 
zenji  and  Yumoto,  higher  up  in  the  mountains.  Our  choice  of 
conveyance  lay  between  saddle-horses  with  bad  reputations  for 

115 


Ifn  JBamboo  Xanfcs* 

biting  and  kicking,  and  so  small  I  should  be  averse  to  mount- 
ing one,  and  kagos,  a  kind  of  basket-chair,  suspended  on  a 
strong  bamboo  pole  and  carried  on  the  shoulders  of  two  men. 
We  chose  the  kago.  The  seat  is  very  low  and  the  position  tire- 
some ;  but  it  is  very  much  better  suited  to  rough  mountain 
trips  than  the  more  comfortable  kuruma.  Thus  fitted  out,  we 
started.  All  the  first  part  of  the  journey  was  a  gradual  ascent 
by  a  rough  road  with  an  abundance  of  shrubs  and  wild  flowers 
growing  by  the  wayside.  There  was  plenty  of  dust  and  plenty 
of  sun,  until  we  entered  a  mountain  gorge.  Walls  of  basalt,  a 
rock  comparatively  rare  in  Japan,  loomed  up  on  either  side  and 
a  mountain  torrent  rushed  down  the  valley.  Leaving  the  kuru- 
mayas  at  a  tea-house  for  rest  and  refreshment,  we  walked  along 
the  winding  road  which  skirts  the  stream  for  a  considerable 
distance,  under  cliffs  from  which  water  trickled  on  our  heads, 
and  crossed  to  the  opposite  shore  by  a  frail  bridge  of  bamboo. 
A  little  farther  on  we  came  unexpectedly  to  a  stream  that 
blocked  the  path,  and  were  obliged  to  wait  until  the  coolies  ar- 
rived to  carry  us  over.  As  we  proceeded,  the  flowers  that 
come  in  the  autumn  blazed  in  scarlet  glory  along  the  path ; 
birds  sat  on  the  bushes  and  examined  us,  in  no  wise  disturbed 
by  our  coming;  an  indescribable  sweetness  breathed  around 
us.  The  zig-zag  paths  up  the  mountain  were  steep  and  slip- 
pery, but  the  views  through  the  trees  were  sublime.  As  we 
crept  higher  and  higher,  to  the  left  towered  cloud-capped 
mountains  rising  height  beyond  height,  broken  at  intervals  by 
valleys  densely  wooded  and  tinted  with  the  reds  and  yellows  of 

early  autumn.    We  could  look  down  hundreds  of  feet  and  see 

116 


1 

IMfefeo  ant)  tbe  IRortb- 


tall  trees  that  from  that  elevation  resembled  small  shrubs. 
With  hearts  bursting-  with  gladness,  we  fairly  caught  our  breath 
at  the  beauty  of  the  scene,  and  one  of  the  party,  a  stolid  Ger- 
man scientist,  was  roused  to  remark  that  the  scenery  equalled 
that  of  the  Hartz  mountains.    A  grove  of  pines,  fringed  with 


LAKE  CHUZENJI. 


trailing-  mosses,  covered  the  highland,  and  there  we  diverged 
a  little  to  visit  Kegon-no-taki,  a  magnificent  waterfall  that 
leaps  three  hundred  and  fifty  feet  to  a  rocky  pool  below.  The 
volume  of  water  was  great  after  the  summer  rains,  and  we  de- 
scended the  steep  precipice  of  two^  hundred  feet  bespattered 
with  foam,  regardless  of  the  notice  that  the  old,  the  young,  or 

those  who  had  had  too  much  "  sake"  were  not  to  go  down. 

119 


1ht  bamboo  XanDs. 


The  owner  of  the  "notice"  showed  us  some  very  curious  speci- 
mens of  fossil  and  ossified  woods.  Chuzenji,  so  delightfully 
located  on  the  lake,  is  very  popular  as  a  summer  home  among 
the  wealthy  Japanese,  but  its  pretty  tea-houses  were  nearly 
deserted  at.  this  season.  Selecting  one  with  a  fine  outlook  over 
the  lake,  we  ate  our  luncheon  on  the  balcony  and  enjoyed  the 
extended  views.  The  sacred  mountain  of  Xantaisan  rises 
abruptly  ten  thousand  feet  from  the  east  shore  and  low  hills 
covered  with  trees  enclose  the  other  side,  all  charmingly  re- 
flected on  the  unruffled  water.  There  are  many  celebrated 
mountains  in  this  district,  each  with  its  own  shrine  dedicated 
to  some  special  god.  The  wind  god  is  supposed  to  dwell  on 
Xantaisan,  and  thousands  of  pilgrims  ascend  it  in  the  spring 
to  a  shrine  on  the  summit.  These  pilgrimages  have  no  flavor 
of  penitence ;  they  are  made  to  conciliate  his  godship  and  keep 
him  in  good  humor  until  harvest  is  passed.  After  a  short  rest, 
while  waiting  for  boats  to  cross  the  lake,  we  visited  a  large  red- 
lacquered  temple,  with  black  torii,  a  very  sacred  place.  As 
Ave  glided  over  the  waters,  which  teemed  with  fish,  we  saw 
numbers  of  boats  with  fine  catches.  Our  coolies  and  kagos 
met  us  at  the  landing-place  and  we  were  soon  on  our  way,  rid- 
ing through  groves  of  pine,  elm,  oak,  beach,  chestnut,  maple, 
and  a  luxuriant  growth  of  grapevines,  azaleas,  syringa,  bam- 
boo grass,  and  flowering  shrubs  whose  names  we  had  not  time 
to  learn.  We  made  a  steep  ascent,  and  crossed  several 
streams,  visiting  on  the  way  the  Ryuzu-ga  taki,  or  "Dragon's 
Head  Cascade,"  a  series  of  small  falls  "dancing  high  and  dan- 
cing low"  that  form  two  streams.     We  passed  over  a  famous 

I20 


IRtfcfeo  anfc  tbe  IRortb, 


battle-field  of  early  times,  and  then,  rising-  gradually  toward 
the  hills,  we  entered  the  woods.  The  foot-path  grew  less 
and  less  distinct;  the  trees  were  changing  in  character  and 
appearance;  oaks  began  to  straggle  along  the  highway,  and 
pines  became  more  abundant.  By  a  steep  mountain  road  we 
reached  Yumoto  Lake,  entirely  surrounded  by  heavily  tim- 
bered mountains  that  throw  their  dark  shadows  over  its  deep 
green  waters.  The  village,  a  favorite  watering-place,  five 
thousand  feet  above  sea-level,  clings  to  the  base  of  the  moun- 
tain as  if  fearful  of  being  crowded  into  the  lake.  Here  are 
numerous  warm  sulphur  springs,  that  attract  victims  of  rheum- 
atism and  skin  diseases.  Until  recently  the  public  bath- 
house was  a  feature  of  Japan,  and  these  bathing  places,  open 
to  the  street,  are  frequented  by  both  sexes  promiscuously. 
This  custom  of  bathing  has  been  abolished  in  cities,  but  here 
it  is  still  continued.  The  climate  is  hot  in  summer  and  cold  in 
winter,  and  snow  lies  to  a  depth  of  ten  feet,  making  the  place 
inaccessible.  The  town  is  composed  of  inns  and  tea-houses; 
the  owners  cover  these  with  coarse  matting  in  the  fall,  and  es- 
cape the  frost  by  going  to  the  low  country  to  remain  until  spring. 

We  had  intended  to  return  to  Chuzenji  that  night,  but  a 
typhoon  rain  came  on  that  turned  the  streams  into  torrents 
and  the  roads  into  mud-holes,  making  it  unsafe  to  travel.  One 
who  has  experienced  sub-tropical  storms  will  understand  how 
masterful  they  are.  The  semi-foreign  hotels  were  crowded, 
and  we  were  obliged  to  seek  rooms  at  a  native  inn.  As  we 
alighted,  the  servants  fell  on  their  faces  at  our  feet,  all  the 

while,  drawing  in  their  breath  in  a  curious  faint  whistle,  a 

123 


1Fn  bamboo  Xanfcs, 


polite  way  of  expressing  absolute  submission  to  our  wishes. 
The  highly  polished  floors  were  immaculately  neat,  so  neat 
that  a  lady  dressed  for  a  ball  could  have  wandered  about  that 
house  without  getting  an  atom  of  dust  on  her  spotless  attire. 
The  dinner,  served  on  small  lacquer  trays,  consisted  of  soups, 
raw  and  dried  fish,  tasteless  vegetables,  boiled  rice  and  tea. 
Hungry  as  we  were,  we  could  not  eat  the  strange  food.  After 
some  delay  the  obliging  landlord  managed  to  provide  us  with 
fresh  eggs,  and  with  the  addition  of  the  rice  and  tea  we  made 
an  abundant  meal.  The  inn  was  lighted  by  the  flame  of  a  wick 
floating  in  a  cup  of  cocoanut  oil,  placed  in  a  paper  lantern. 
My  bedroom  light,  although  more  pretentious,  only  served  to 
make  the  evening  more  dismal.  It  was  a  smoking  candle  of 
vegetable  wax,  stuck  on  an  antique  candlestick  of  bronze. 
The  room  had  absolutely  no  furniture — nothing  but  the  three 
futons  (cotton  quilts),  on  the  floor,  on  which  I  slept  with  my 
down  pillow  for  a  head-rest.  The  wooden  execution  block  used 
by  the  natives  did  not  suggest  comfort,  and  my  dishevelled 
condition  rendered  one  unnecessary.  That  night  I  realized, 
more  than  ever,  how  far  away  I  was  from  home.  I  have  no 
idea  how  long  I  lay  awake,  but  it  must  have  been  near  day- 
light when  some  small  unknown  object  ran  staggering  across 
my  face.  I  felt  suspicious,  but  did  not  disturb  it,  and  upon  in- 
quiry learned  "it  was  only  a  centipede"  with  its  numerous  feet 
and  length  of  four  inches.  Imagine  my  feelings !  The  bare 
remembrance  of  the  incident  tortures  me,  and  no  amount  of 
travel  can  accustom  me  to  these  venomous  creatures.  The 

Japanese  mode  of  sleeping  has  some  serious  drawbacks. 

124 


A  CASCADE. 


IKUfefeo  anfc  tbe  IRortb* 

In  the  morning,  a  fat  little  waitress  brought  water  in  lac 
qnered  bowls  and  pretty  blue  cotton  towels  for  our  ablutions, 
and  we  completed  our  toilet  under  the  embarrassing  stare  of 
half  the  household  peeping  through  holes  in  the  paper  screens. 
After  an  early  breakfast,  a  second  edition  of  our  dinner,  we 
made  a  tour  of  the  town  and  enjoyed  a  row  on  the  lake  as  the 
beautiful  sun  rose  above  the  eastern  mountain-top. 


SALUTATION. 

As  we  returned  to  Nikko,  stopping  for  lunch  at  Chuzenji, 

the  country  looked  lovely ;  the  air  was  cool  and  sweet,  but  the 

heavy  fall  of  rain  that  had  laid  the  dust  had  also  furrowed  the 

roads,  making  them   in  places  well-nigh  impassable.  The 

waterfalls  were  lovelier  than  ever,  and  we  could  not  resist  a 

second  visit.    Arrived  at  our  hotel,  the  same  little  maids  took 

charge  of  our  mud-splashed  garments ;  but  we  had  no  difficulty 

in  recovering  them,  we  knew  their  hiding-place. 

127 


In  Bamboo  Xanfcs. 


The  charms  of  Nikko  were  so  great  we  spent  one  more  clay 
among  its  beautiful  shrines,  so  full  of  historic  interest.  That 
sky,  those  temples,  those  groves  and  walks,  that  charming 
combination  of  Nature  and  Art — it  is  not,  I  think,  until  you 
have  paid  them  several  visits  and  have  gazed  at  them  from 
within  and  from  without  that  you  become  in  sympathy  with 
the  very  Soul  of  the  place. 

From  Nikko  we  went  to  the  north.  The  following  morn- 
ing we  rode  down  the  ancient  avenue  to  Utsonomiya,  where 
we  took  the  train  and  made  a  hurried  trip  to  Hakodate,  on  the 
island  of  Yezo.  Our  route  lay  among  rice-fields  and  tea-plan- 
tations, where  we  saw  young  girls  gathering  the  leaves  to  be 
placed  on  mats  to  dry.  Signs  of  silk  culture  began  to  appear, 
and  soon  we  reached  Fukushima,  a  very  busy  place,  the  centre 
of  the  trade  in  raw  silk  and  silkworms'  eggs.  Silk  culture  is 
an  occupation  peculiarly  suited  to  women,  as  it  requires  great 
care  and  delicacy  of  touch.  It  is  carried  on  wherever  the  mul- 
berry-tree will  grow.  We  noticed  groves  of  these  trees  and 
women  in  the  house-fronts  stripping  leaves  and  reeling  silk, 
and  white  and  yellow  cocoons  lying  on  mats  in  the  sun  to  kill 
the  chrysalides.  The  hatching  of  the  eggs  is  a  delicate  and 
laborious  process,  requiring  constant  attention  day  and  night 
for  three  weeks. 

The  lacquer-tree,  resembling  the  ash,  from  which  the  var- 
nish is  made,  and  producing  oil  and  vegetable  wax,  grows 
abundantly  throughout  this  region. 

The  camphor-tree  also  abounds.     It  is  an  evergreen,  of  the 

laurel  family,  having  glossy  leaves  and  bearing  clusters  of  yel- 

128 


9 


IRtfefeo  ant)  tbe  IRortb. 


lowish  flowers  which  are  succeeded  by  bunches  of  small  fruit. 
The  camphor  is  obtained  by  cutting  the  wood  into  chips,  which 
are  steeped  in  water  or  exposed  to  steam  in  a  rude  wooden  still 
protected  from  the  fire  by  a  coating  of  clay,  until  the  camphor 
is  extracted  and  the  gum  is  formed. 


AINOS  OF  YEZO. 

From  Sendai,  where  we  spent  a  day  in  visiting  its  famous 
castle  and  the  temples,  we  journeyed  among  some  of  the  finest 
scenery  on  the  island,  not  unlike  that  of  Switzerland.  Few 
places  in  the  world,  for  ruggedness  of  beauty  and  picturesque- 
ness  of  scenery,  can  compare  with  these  provinces.  It  makes 
an  indelible  impression  on  the  ardent  lover  of  nature.  The 

131 


1Fn  Bamboo  3Lanfcs. 


mountains  rise  into  grand  peaks ;  the  rich,  warm  valleys  are 
highly  cultivated ;  and  the  beautiful,  clear  blue  sky  is  suited  to 
the  appearance  of  the  country.  There  were  few  signs  of  life 
in  the  remote  places,  with  the  exception  of  the  lonely  charcoal- 
burners  and  wood-cutters,  whose  scattered  huts  and  smoulder- 


JAPANESE  JUNK. 

ing  fires  dot  the  forest.  Just  before  reaching  Aomori,  the 
mountains  gradually  lessened  in  height,  and  we  caught  pic- 
turesque views  of  the  coast  as  we  speeded  along  the  hillsides, 
sparsely  wooded  with  pines  and  dwarf  bamboo. 

By  a  small  steamer,  we  made  the  rough  passage  of  seventy 

miles  across  Tsugaru  Strait  to  Hakodate,  one  of  the  first  two- 

132 


IFUfefeo  ant)  the  IRortb. 

ports  opened  to  American  trade.  The  chief  port  of  Yezo,  it 
has  a  magnificent  harbor  protected  on  the  south  by  a  rocky 
cliff  eleven  hundred  and  fifty-seven  feet  in  height,  at  the  base 
of  which  the  town  clusters.  It  is  a  great  resort  of  invalids,  on 
account  of  the  invigorating  climate.  Our  two  days  were  de- 
voted to  walks  about  the  place  and  a  visit  to  the  museum,  in 
which  are  relics  of  the  stone  age  and  a  large  collection  of  birds 
and  shells.  We  saw  there  also  several  Ainos,  who  are  prob- 
ably the  aborigines,  if  any  still  exist,  and  some  interesting 
specimens  of  their  work.  They  inhabit  a  province  around 
Volcano  Bay,  a  little  farther  to  the  north.  The  Ainos  differ  in 
character  from  the  Japanese,  quite  as  much  as  in  form  and  in 
color.  As  a  whole  they  are  broader ;  they  are  darker  in  com- 
plexion, have  heavy  growths  of  hair  and  beard,  and  entirely 
distinct  customs,  religion,  and  habits.  That  evening  we  had  a 
sail  around  the  bay  on  a  junk,  in  general  appearance  much  like 
the  Spanish  caravel  that  Columbus  commanded  on  his  adven- 
turous voyage  in  1492.  With  the  exception  of  the  two  great 
goggle-eyes  on  either  side  of  the  bow,  the  wood  is  never 
painted,  but  is  kept  clean  by  constant  scraping.  The  large 
square  sail  looks  awkward  and  is  difficult  to  control.  In  the 
light  breeze  we  wobbled  about  the  harbor,  much  interested  in 
the  antique  carvings  and  fastenings  of  bronze  or  of  copper 
that  adorned  the  stern,  and  in  watching  the  sailors  manage  the 
ship.  The  native  craft  can  be  recommended  neither  to  per- 
sons inclined  to  seasickness  nor  to  those  in  haste  to  reach  their 
destination.  Myriads  of  strange  looking  sea-fowl  clouded  the 
sky  and  flew  screaming  overhead.    Hakodate  and  the  coast  in 

*35 


1Tn  Bamboo  %anfc>5* 


general  abound  in  a  species  of  fish-hawk  that  utters  a  wild, 
shrill  cry  as  it  swoops  down  on  its  prey. 

The  next  day  we  started  down  the  coast  by  steamer,  and 
for  once  the  Pacific  behaved  well  and  the  trip  was  delightful. 
We  had  fine  views  of  the  shore  and  the  sacred  island  of  Kink- 
wazen,  near  Sendai,  and  sailing  up  the  bay  to  Yokohama,  the 
glorious  cone  of  Fujiyama  suddenly  shone  forth  to  greet  us, 
then  as  suddenly  vanished. 

136 


CHAPTER  IV. 

TOKYO. 

In  1590  Tokyo,  then  called  Yedo,  became  the  military  capi- 
tal of  Japan,  the  seat  of  the  Shogunate,  and  the  Mikado  lived 
in  retirement  in  his  capital  at  Kyoto.  Successive  dynasties  of 
Shoguiis  occupied  "  The  Castle,"  which  is  strongly  fortified  by 
ramparts  and  moats.  The  Daimyos,  feudal  nobles,  lived  in 
yashikis,  walled  enclosures  also  surrounded  by  moats,  in  which 
they  were  compelled  to  reside  with  their  two-sworded  retain- 
ers during  half  the  year.  The  remaining  months  were  spent 
on  their  country  estates,  where  they  lived  in  almost  regal 
splendor.  After  the  fall  of  the  Shogunate,  in  1868,  the  Mika- 
do moved  his  residence  to  Tokyo  and  it  became  the  capital  of 
the  realm.  These  sashed  and  girded  peers  were  deprived  of 
power ;  their  estates  were  confiscated ;  their  pampered  retain- 
ers scattered  throughout  the  land,  and  their  yashikis,  which 
occupy  the  northern  and  southern  quarters  of  the  city,  are  fast 
falling  to  decay. 

T5kyo,  well  situated  on  the  shores  of  a  fine  bay,  has  no- 
walls  and  no  apparent  boundary.  Freight  brought  to  the  city 
is  distributed  by  means  of  the  artificial  waterways ;  the  main 
canals  have  a  width  of  three  hundred  feet ;  the  smallest  are  not 
more  than  thirty  feet  in  breadth.     The  pleasure  barges  or 

139 


1Tn  bamboo  Xanfcs. 


house -boats  of  the  wealthy  Japanese  are  furnished  in  a  simple, 
refined  manner.  As  they  glide  along  the  canals  in  summer's 
time,  a  glimpse  may  be  had  of  the  sweet,  cool  interiors,  from 
which  issue  sounds  of  the  samisen  as  a  woman  touches  the 
strings. 

Architecturally  the  town  is  typical.  Earthquakes  are  fre- 
quent in  Japan,  and  that  fact  must  be  taken  into  account  in  all 
building  operations.  Miles  of  one-story  houses  with  gray 
roofs  stretch  in  every  direction,  and  structures  with  two  full 
stories  are  few. 

During  our  stay  in  the  city  we  lodged  with  a  kind  English 
lady,  who  occupied  a  small  house  of  Japanese  architecture  close 
to  one  of  these  feudal  mansions  of  old  walls  and  crumbling 
towers.  Japanese  houses  have  a  grace  peculiar  to  themselves. 
Our  pretty  retreat  stood  in  a  garden,  separated  from  the  street 
by  a  lattice  of  bamboo  and  shaded  by  graceful  trees  and  vine- 
covered  arbors.  The  flowers  were  lovely.  The  trim  little 
borders,  the  roses  and  other  varieties  that  bloomed  in  profu- 
sion, all  breathed  forth  a  welcome.  The  house,  very  simple  in 
construction,  consisted  of  a  light  framework  of  bamboo  cover- 
ing about  thirty  square  feet  of  ground.  There  is  no  founda- 
tion or  cellar  to  the  Japanese  building.  A  veranda,  shaded 
by  wistaria,  extended  across  the  rear,  and  a  great  cherry-tree 
that  grew  near  the  entrance  hung  over  the  house  like  a  shield. 
In  warm  weather  the  front  was  left  open  during  the  day,  at 
night  it  was  closed  by  semi-transparent  screens  of  rice  paper. 
In  cold  or  inclement  weather  a  second  screen  of  wood  is  used. 

The  interior  was  not  divided  by  walls,  but  each  floor  could  be 

1 40 


THE  FIRE  DEPARTMENT. 


made  into  one  or  many  rooms  by  drawing  the  fusuma  (sliding 
screens)  that  run  in  grooves  at  the  top  and  bottom.  There  is 
one  advantage  in  these  movable  walls :  by  drawing  the  frames 
you  can  enter  or  leave  a  room  at  any  point  you  choose.  I 
never  knew  how  uncomfortable  stairs  could  be  made  until  I 
went  to  Japan.  They  were  so  steep  and  so  highly  polished,  a 
toboggan  would  have  simplified  the  descent.  My  own  apart- 
ment was  so  small,  I  could  scarcely  move  about  in  it  without 
injuring  the  decorated  panels;  once  I  thoughtlessly  leaned 
against  one  and  made  an  unceremonious  passage  into  the  room 
next  mine,  much  to  my  chagrin  and  to  the  amusement  of  my 
neighbor.  The  furniture  of  the  house  and  the  cuisine  were 
English ;  the  cook  and  waitress  were  natives  with  the  eupho- 
nious names  of  Blossom  and  Spring.  It  is  no  compliment  in 
Japan  to  name  a  child  after  an  elder.  Girls  are  commonly 
called  Star,  Cherry,  Sunshine,  or  some  such  name,  while  a  boy 
is  Stone,  Tiger,  Bear,  or  the  like.  More  ceremonious  names 
are  used  among  the  nobility. 

There  amid  charming  surroundings  we  lived  in  comfort, 
without  a  care  or  worry  except  for  danger  from  fire ;  the  city 
has  many  times  suffered  from  this  terrible  enemy,  and  in  1601 
was  laid  in  ashes.  No  people  are  more  afraid  of  fire  than  the 
Japanese ;  for  if  a  house  happens  to  ignite,  a  whole  street  of 
these  structures  of  wood  and  paper  burns  down  with  incred- 
ible rapidity.  There  is  generally  not  much  loss,  however ;  for, 
as  soon  as  a  fire  starts  in  a  neighborhood,  the  residents  quickly 
remove  the  screens,  mats,  and  the  few  articles  of  furniture  to 
a  safe  place,  and  only  the  roof  and  wooden  frame  are  left  for 

i43 


flu  bamboo  Xanfcs, 


the  fire  fiend  to  destroy.  So  great  is  the  danger  that  adjoin- 
ing nearly  every  private  house  is  found  a  "godown,"  a  small 
fire-proof  building  with  walls  of  mud  or  clay,  in  which  are 
stored  the  family  treasures. 

Happening  one  evening  to  be  in  a  distant  part  of  the  city, 
we  witnessed  a  small  fire  and  enjoyed  a  little  sport  watching 
the  antics  of  the  firemen,  in  full  costume,  with  their  antiquated 
hand-engines.  Imagine  firemen  carrying  a  fan !  but  they  do 
it,  for  I  saw  them,  and  huge  ones,  too. 

Tokyo  has  a  population  of  one  million  five  hundred  thou- 
sand. Its  "  Castle"  grounds,  parks,  palaces,  temples,  and 
dwellings  cover  an  area  of  one  hundred  square  miles,  and  the 
distances  are  immense.  There  are  fifteen  ku,  or  wards,  thir- 
teen hundred  streets,  and  three  hundred  and  twenty  thousand 
houses.  When  a  street  passes  through  more  than  one  ward, 
a  second  sequence  of  numbers  is  required ;  so  there  may  be 
several  buildings  numbered  three,  ten,  or  forty,  as  the  case  may 
be,  miles  apart.  A  stranger  in  this  labyrinth  becomes  hope- 
lessly bewildered  unless  he  has  a  trusty  kurumaya,  who  the 
moment  the  address  is  given  whirls  his  passenger  up  and 
down  streets  and  short-cut  lanes,  and  lands  him  at  his  desti- 
nation without  apparent  effort.  Owing  to  the  vast  extent  of 
the  city,  we  engaged  kurumas  for  our  stay,  and  every  morn- 
ing at  the  stated  hour  the  faithful  men  were  at  the  gate,  with 
promptness  highly  commendable.  We  rode  through  the 
streets,  determined  on  reaching  the  guide-book  sights ;  but  the 
shops  proved  so  attractive  we  idled  away  many  an  hour,  deriv- 
ing much  pleasure  and  some  profit. 

144 


All  tourists  in  Japan  contract  the  shopping  fever,  and  a  few 
suffer  from  it  as  long  as  they  remain  in  the  country.  We  con- 
valesced slowly,  and  sustained  a  relapse  in  every  new  town 
which  we  visited. 

The  most  interesting1  of  all  the  religious  structures  in  Tokyo 


SHIBA.    GATEWAY  NO.  1. 

are  the  Shiba  temples,  in  which  lie  in  state  five  Shoguns  of  the 
Tokugawa  (Ieyasu)  dynasty.  In  a  grove  of  majestic  trees, 
which  serves  as  a  public  park,  stand  these  temples,  quite  as  rich 
in  decoration  as  those  at  Nikko  but  lacking  their  beauty  of 
natural  surroundings.  The  temples  of  the  seventh  and  ninth 
10  145 


1fn  Bamboo  Xanfcs* 


Shoguns  are  the  most  splendid.  We  passed  through  the  ex- 
quisitely ornamented  entrance  gate  to  a  second,  distinguished 
by  immense  dragons  twisted  about  the  pillars,  and  by  the  "  Im- 
perial Tablet"  that  hangs  above  the  portal.  In  the  court-yard 
stand  two  hundred  and  twelve  magnificent  bronze  lanterns  dat- 
ing from  1 716  a.d.,  gifts  of  noblemen  to  the  Shogun.  By  a 
third  gateway  we  entered  a  gallery  whose  panels  are  gor- 
geously decorated  with  painted  carvings  of  birds  and  flowers. 

We  took  off  our  shoes,  paid  the  admission  fee,  and,  in  charge 
of  a  priest  with  an  intelligent,  kindly  face,  entered  the  sanc- 
tum. It  is  a  place  of  wondrous  splendor.  The  interior  deco- 
rations are  magnificent.  The  three-leaved  crest  of  the  Shogun 
adorns  innumerable  places,  paintings  of  lions  ornament  the 
walls,  blinds  of  bamboo  and  silk  and  hangings  of  fine  needle- 
work conceal  the  altar.  Small  lacquered  tables  of  rich  design 
support  lacquered  boxes  containing  scrolls  of  Buddhist  scrip- 
ture. The  three  gorgeous  shrines  of  gold-lacquer  are  said  to 
enclose  images  presented  by  the  Mikado  and  too  sacred  to  be 
shown.  The  clergy  eke  out  their  insufficient  salaries  by  the 
sale  of  a  curio  now  and  then.  While  in  the  oratory,  the  monk 
produced  from  his  ample  sleeve  a  piece  of  brocade  cut  from  an 
ancient  altar  banner.  I  ventured  to  touch  with  profane  hand 
the  sacred  fragment,  and  bought  it  for  a  silver  piece — his  soul 
and  his  silk  for  a  yen !  Of  my  part  in  the  transaction  I  have 
yet  to  repent. 

The  tombs  are  of  plain  stone,  resembling  pagodas,  and, 

like  those  at  Nikko,  present  a  strong  contrast  to  the  grandeur 

of  the  temples.    The  shrine  in  the  temple  of  the  second  Shogun 

146 


is  of  fine  gold-lacquer,  two  hundred  and  fifty  years  old;  the 
beautiful  bronze  incense-burner  is  of  the  same  age.  A  short 
walk  and  we  reached  the  Octagonal  Hall  that  contains  his 
tomb,  the  largest  and  finest  specimen  of  gold-lacquer  in  the 
world.  Hours  were  spent  in  examining  these  beautiful  shrines, 
and  at  each  subsequent  visit  we  were  more  and  more  impressed 
by  their  magnificence. 

Although  the  day  was  waning  when  our  survey  of  Shiba 
had  ended,  we  toiled  wearily  up  one  hundred  stone  steps  to  the 
summit  of  Atago  for  a  fine  view  of  the  Bay.  The  scene  was 
most  pleasing;  the  sunset  colors  tinted  the  distant  mountains 
and  the  white  sails  of  junks  that  glided  over  its  blue  expanse. 
As  we  were  returning,  deep  tones  of  temple  bells  came  floating 
out  of  the  narrow  streets. 

We  spent  a  morning  in  the  Kwan-Koba,  the  finest  bazaar 
in  Tokyo,  a  large  low  building  in  Shiba  Park.  The  interior  is 
divided  by  high  partitions,  and  a  continuous  aisle  runs  back 
and  forth  across  its  entire  length.  All  kinds  of  articles  used 
by  the  Japanese  in  daily  life  are  attractively  arranged  on  its 
shelves;  it  was  the  best  collection  of  its  kind  that  we  saw. 
The  attendants  were  sweet  little  women  in  native  dress — the 
kimona,  a  scanty,  loose  gown  reaching  to  the  feet  and  hollowed 
out  at  the  neck,  the  large  sleeves  hanging  to  the  knee,  a  broad 
obi  (sash),  and  hair  most  elaborately  arranged. 

We  noticed  in  the  bazaar  a  Japanese  lady  robed  in  the 

latest  Parisian  fashion,  showing  the  effects  of  foreign  influence. 

In  place  of  wooden  clogs,  a  loose  gown,  and  uncovered  head, 

she  wore  high-heeled  boots,  a  tight-fitting  dress,  and  a  much- 

149 


flu  bamboo  Xanfcs, 


bedecked  hat.  I  shall  never  forget  her  indescribably  grotesque 
figure  as  she  posed  with  a  self-conscious  air,  exactly  like  a 
dummy  in  a  shop  window.    The  sight  was  ugly  and  painful. 


KOTO.  KOTO. 


She  must  have  been  cruelly  tortured  by  the  restraint  of  her 
new  costume,  and  I  pitied  her.  No  wise  Japanese  will  lightly 
change  the  old  for  the  new. 

!50 


Among  my  purchases  was  a  small  box  containing-  four 
models  of  native  musical  instruments.  One,  the  koto,  has 
seven  waxed-silk  strings  stretched  over  a  sounding-board  of 
hard  wood  and  is  played  with  ivory  finger-tips.  It  is  the  most 
esteemed  of  modern  instruments. 

Another,  a  one-stringed  koto,  is  very  ancient,  dating  back 
fifteen  hundred  years. 

The  gekkin  has  four  strings  and  resembles  a  guitar. 

The  samisen,  the  national  instrument  of  the  women,  is  not 
unlike  a  banjo. 

The  sounds  produced  by  these  instruments  are  agonizing  to 
sensitive  ears.  An  authority  on  Japan  affirms  that  at  certain 
Shinto  festivals  of  great  sanctity  both  stringed  and  wind  in- 
struments are  played  in  silence.  I  did  not  attend  a  concert  of 
that  nature,  but  I  could  attest  to  its  popularity  with  Euro- 
peans. 

The  K5yo-Kwan  (Tinted-Maple  House)  on  the  heights  be- 
yond Shiba  is  the  most  noted  restaurant  in  Tokyo,  a  resort  of 
princes  and  nobles  when  they  wish  to  give  banquets.  By  invi- 
tation of  a  Japanese  lawyer,  we  had  dinner  there — a  dinner,  a 
complete  example  of  a  native  feast.  The  party,  in  addition  to 
this  gentleman,  consisted  of  his  wife  and  mother  and  three 
Americans.  The  Japanese  were  descendants  of  samurai,  two- 
sworded  retainers  of  feudal  lords,  and  wore  their  mon,  or  crest, 
embroidered  in  silver  on  their  garments.  They  were  the  first 
high-caste  Japanese  I  had  the  honor  of  meeting,  and  I  studied 
them.  Our  host,  a  lawyer  and  Harvard  graduate,  was  well- 
looking  in  face,  intelligent,  and  learned.    No  opinion  is  sought 

151 


1fn  Bamboo  Xanfcs. 


more  eagerly  than  his,  or  more  highly  paid  for.  He  wore  a 
dark  gray  silk  kimona,  and  attached  to  his  belt  was  his  pipe 
and  tobacco-pouch. 

The  ladies  also  wore  silk  kimonas  of  sober  tone;  their 
sashes  were  rich  and  elegant,  and  in  their  head-dress  of  puffs 
and  bow-knots  were  stuck  costly  ornaments  of  coral  and  gold. 


GEKKIN. 


The  wife,  so  tiny  she  looked  like  a  child,  was  very  young, 
pretty,  well  educated,  unassuming,  unaspiring,  with  the  most 
beautiful  hands  imaginable.  Her  face  and  neck  were  covered 
with  powder  and  her  glossy  black  chevelure  was  smoothed 
with  great  care.  A  Japanese  lady  never  uses  curling-tongs  or 
crimping-pins,  as  it  is  considered  a  great  misfortune  to  possess 

i52 


wavy  hair;  but  if  nature  lavishes  a  large  nose  upon  her  she  is 
always  a  reigning  beauty. 

Until  the  present  Empress  introduced  a  reform,  married 
women  were  required  to  shave  their  eyebrows  and  blacken 
their  teeth,  as  a  wife  is  supposed  to  have  attractions  for  her 


SAMISEN. 


husband  only.  This  hideous  practice  amounts  to  positive  in- 
humanity. The  custom  is  dying  out  among  the  upper  classes, 
and  our  friends  were  not  thus  disfigured.  It  is  to  be  hoped 
that  this,  the  first  move  in  the  right  direction,  will  result  event- 
ually .  in  the  Asiatic  wife  attaining  her  rightful  position  in  the 
household,  as  companion  and  counsellor  of  her  husband. 

Both  ladies  had  that  indescribable    charm  of  person  and 

153 


1Fn  Bamboo  Xan&s, 


grace  of  manner  that  seem  to  be  the  birthright  of  every  Japa- 
nese woman. 

The  family  all  wore  quaint  little  cotton  socks  with  an  ar- 
rangement like  a  glove-finger  for  the  great  toe ;  placed  in  a 
row  at  the  entrance,  to  be  put  on  when  the  party  went  out,  were 


INTERIOR  OF  JAPANESE  HOUSE. 


three  sets  of  patrician  lacquered  clogs  and  three  pairs  of 
plebeian  leather  boots. 

The  architecture  of  the  house  was  pure  Japanese ;  the  floors 
were  highly  polished  and  covered  with  soft  white  matting, 
which  one  would  have  been  quite  unwilling-  to  walk  on  with 
coarse  shoes,  even  if  allowed  to  do  so.  The  entire  absence  of 
furniture  was  not  in  accordance  with  our  ideas  of  comfort. 

!t54 


DWARF  TREES. 


The  Japanese  believe  thoroughly  in  the  "sublimity  of  space." 
The  rooms  were  large  ;  some  were  fourteen-mat  rooms  and  one 
was  a  twenty-eight-mat  room.  These  beautiful  floor-coverings 
are  made  of  rushes  closely  woven  together,  and  are  always  of 
one  size — three  feet  by  six  feet  and  two  and  one-half  inches 
thick.  It  is  usual  to  compute  the  area  of  a  room  by  the  num- 
ber of  its  mats. 

We  first  walked  through  the  house,  admiring  its  neatly  fin- 
ished interior.  In  the  tokonomas,  alcoves  with  highly  polished 
floors  slightly  elevated,  old  distorted  pine-trees  were  growing 
in  ornamental  pots ;  and  kakemonos,  painted  or  written  scrolls 
of  birds  or  landscapes,  were  hung  on  the  toko  walls.  A  Japa- 
nese interior  is  very  effective  because  it  always  gives  a  work  of 
art  the  advantage  of  ample  room.  The  beautiful  screens,  the 
open-work  friezes,  the  tobacco  boxes,  the  sake  bottles  and  cups, 
the  soup  and  rice  bowls  were  all  decorated  with  maple-leaves 
either  painted,  carved,  or  of  pierced  woodwork.  A  veranda 
extended  across  the  rear ;  from  this  we  enjoyed  a  wide  vista, 
embracing  the  curiously  fanciful  garden,  the  gray  roofs,  and 
stretching  far  out  to  sea.  The  garden  was  a  miniature  land- 
scape; a  pretty  combination  of  mountain,  lake,  waterfall, 
dwarf  shrubs,  and  carefully  trained  pines  two  hundred  years 
old  and  only  a  foot  high.  A  hedge  was  trimmed  to  simu- 
late a  huge  rock  very  irregular  in  shape,  and  the  effect  was 
peculiar. 

When  dinner  was  anounced,  we  were  ushered  into  a  room 
whose  only  ornament  was  a  large  blue  vase  filled  with  chrys- 
anthemums.    On  the  floor  were  arranged  six  flat  velvet  cush- 

r57 


Un  Bamboo  SLanfcs, 


ions,  and  we  took  our  places  on  them  with  more  regard  for 
comfort  than  for  elegance  of  position. 

The  attendants  were  six  young  women  in  native  dress. 

The  first  course  was  served  on  trays ;  a  small  teapot,  a  tiny 
handleless  cup,  and  a  bowl  of  water  were  furnished  to  each 
member  of  the  company,  and  the  tea  ceremony  began.  We 
drank  to  our  host,  then  rinsed  and  refilled  the  cups,  exchang- 
ing- compliments  in  this  way  until  all  the  guests  had  been  thus 
nonored.  There  are  no  large  dishes ;  the  plates  are  about  the 
size  of  small  tea  saucers,  the  bowls  of  the  smallest  teacups; 
the  teacups  hold  about  as  much  as  a  wine-glass. 

For  the  second  course,  before  each  person  was  placed  a 
small  wooden  tray  covered  with  paper ;  and,  lying  on  it  dain- 
tily, were  a  large  round  cake  made  of  a  red  sweet  bean  covered 
with  a  kind  of  rice-flour  paste  and  four  sugar  maple-leaves 
colored  red  and  green  to  represent  the  natural  leaves  with 
botanical  accuracy.  The  cake  was  nauseously  sweet  and  the 
leaves  were  too  pretty  to  destroy,  but  our  Japanese  friends  ate 
theirs  to  the  last  crumb. 

Sake,  the  only  intoxicating  liquor  used  by  the  Japanese, 
formed  the  third  course.  It  is  prepared  from  rice,  contains 
eleven  to  seventeen  per  cent,  of  alcohol,  has  a  faint  taste  of 
both  beer  and  sherry,  and  is  always  taken  before  the  real  re- 
past begins.  The  sake  brewers,  common  to  their  class  in  other 
lands,  are  said  to  be  very  prosperous.  It  was  served  hot  in 
long-nosed  sake  bottles  and  was  drunk  from  china  cups,  which 
we  rinsed  in  bowls  called  robiton,  refilled,  and  exchanged  with 
the  other  guests  while  drinking  to  our  hosts  and  each  other. 

*$* 


If  the  visitors  had  imbibed  the  seductive  beverage  instead  of 
merely  sipping-  it,  I  fear  one  of  the  party  wotild  have  suc- 
cumbed to  circumstances  long  before  the  ceremony  was  over. 
Japanese  hospitality  required  too  much  of  us. 

The  fourth  course  was  a  soup  called  shiru,  made  of  salted 
beans,  and  served  in  small  lacquer-bowls  resting  on  tiny 
lacquered  tables  six  inches  high,  called  zen. 

The  fifth  course  was  brought  in  on  a  plate  covered  with  a 
second  plate  made  of  sticks  of  glass  wired  together.  It  con- 
sisted of  oblong  pieces  of  raw  tai  (the  best  fish  of  Japan),  ma- 
guro  (another  species  of  fish),  akajai  (a  red  shell-fish),  small 
slices  of  kyuri  (cucumber),  and  our  old  enemy,  the  strong- 
smelling  daikon.  Instead  of  knife,  fork,  and  spoon,  two  pretty 
chop-sticks  of  lacquered  bamboo,  scarcely  thicker  than  a  good- 
sized  knitting-needle,  from  eight  to  ten  inches  long,  were  fur- 
nished. The  natives  use  them  with  great  skill,  but  practice 
is  absolutely  necessary.  I  could  make  but  little  progress  with 
mine,  and  it  was  embarrassing,  at  a  fashionable  dinner,  to 
struggle  long  with  a  dainty  morsel  and  have  the  sticks  slip 
apart  at  the  critical  moment. 

While  thus  engaged,  the  wall  in  front  of  us  suddenly  van- 
ished, disclosing  another  room,  and  the  first  dance  began, 
called  koyos-odori,  dance  of  the  maple-leaves,  a  specialty  of 
this  restaurant.  These  geishas  or  professional  dancers  were 
of  the  highest  class.  They  entered  from  an  inner  room,  hold- 
ing before  their  faces  fans  decorated  with  tinted  maple  leaves. 
They  postured,  twirled  their  fans,  whirled  on  their  toes,  with 
many  gestures,  much  pantomime,  and  an  expression  like  that 

!59 


ITn  Bamboo  Xanfcs, 


of  the  exquisite  little  Spangled  Coquette  that  hovers  over  the 
flowers ;  keeping*  time  to  the  music  of  the  koto,  samisen,  and 
kokyu,  an  instrument  played  like  a  violin  with  a  bow,  while 
the  musicians  sang  a  low  accompaniment.  The  music,  which 
was  considered  very  fine  by  the  Japanese,  was  distressing  to  us. 


JAPANESE  MUSICIANS. 

Their  kimonas  and  obis  were  of  silk  crepe  beautifully  embroi- 
dered, and  one  of  the  girls  was  extremely  pretty.  As  they 
danced  and  postured,  they  looked  as  if  they  had  just  stepped 
off  a  fan  or  piece  of  pottery. 

Then  came  the  sixth  course,  of  chestnuts,  boiled  and  very 

sweet,  fried  anago  (eel),  snipe,  a  cake  made  of  egg  and  sea- 

160 


weed,  stewed  plums,  and  boiled  fish  with  raw  carp  shredded 
very  fine  on  top.  A  sauce  called  shogu,  made  of  fermented 
wheat,  beans,  salt,  vinegar  and  a  dash  of  sake,  was  very  good. 
It  did  not  tend  to  make  the  raw  fish  more  palatable  to  know 
that  while  one-half  was  being  served  to  us,  the  dismembered 
carp  was  undoubtedly  swimming  about  in  a  tub  of  water,  as 
the  Japanese  always  cut  them  up  alive,  and  they  will  survive 
for  hours  if  head  and  backbone  are  left  intact. 

The  seventh  course  consisted  of  cooked  fish,  a  kind  of  pota- 
to, preserved  grapes,  and  a  small  piece  of  ginger. 

The  second  dance  was  performed  by  one  girl,  alone.  The 
dance  was  called  dojooji,  and  represented  congratulations  and 
rejoicings  after  a  military  victory.  She  wore  first  a  handsome 
red  silk  crepe  kimona  richly  embroidered  in  gold,  with  a  train 
that  she  managed  beautifully.  She  represented  children  play- 
ing games,  and  at  one  time  bent  backward  until  her  head 
reached  half-way  to  the  floor.  The  music  was  made  by  three 
samisens,  the  players  singing  an  accompaniment  in  high  fal- 
setto tones.  After  posturing  for  a  time  in  the  red  kimona,  the 
dancer  retired  to  the  back  part  of  the  room,  and  with  the  as- 
sistance of  another  girl  removed  the  gown  and  appeared  in  a 
lovely  light-green  robe  exquisitely  embroidered,  with  a  girdle 
of  rich  silver  brocade.  During  the  dance  this  kimona  was 
slipped  off  and  a  still  handsomer  one  was  seen,  a  gown  that 
would  make  the  Queen  of  Sheba  envious.  Her  movements  ap- 
peared graceful  in  these  flowing  garments,  and  she  made  good 
use  of  her  long  sleeves,  which  hung  nearly  to  the  floor ;  but 

without  this  drapery  her  dancing  would  have  been  stiff  and 
ii  161 


1Tn  Bamboo  Xanfcs. 


unnatural.  She  moved  not  a  muscle  of  her  face,  which  might 
have  been  a  mask,  so  perfect  was  the  training. 

For  the  eighth  and  last  course  we  were  served  with  gozen 
(rice),  aemono  (a  kind  of  salad),  brinjal  (egg-plant),  soup  and 
tea. 

The  last  dance  came  on  during  this  course  and  was  called 


DANCING  GIRLS. 

gonim  bayashi,  and  like  the  first  was  performed  by  three  girls. 
It  represented  a  daimyos'  (noble)  procession.  Two  of  the 
girls  bore  lacquered  toy  norimons  (palanquins)  on  their 
shoulders.  In  one  corner  of  the  room  was  a  small  tent  made 
of  red  and  white  cloth  (the  national  colors),  which  constituted 
the  daimyos'  resting-place,  and  was  decorated  with  cherry- 
blossoms.    One  girl  carried  a  pole,  from  the  ends  of  which 

162 


hung  little  house-like  objects  representing  baskets,  in  which 
the  provisions  for  the  noblemen  were  carried ;  a  short  sword 
was  worn  in  her  belt,  but  she  did  not  draw  it.  The  other  two 
held  battledores  and  shuttlecocks,  and  played  an  imaginary 
game  which  was  very  pretty  and  graceful.  The  names  of  the 
dancing  girls  were  Moto  (origin),  Tome  (prosperity),  See 
(clear),  Ai  (love),  and  Masu  (increase).  The  sliding  screens 
that  separated  the  rooms  were  readjusted  at  the  conclusion  of 
each  dance — dances  that  our  entertainers  watched  with  every 
evidence  of  unqualified  approval.  Tobacco  smoking,  so  uni- 
versally indulged  in  by  both  sexes,  was  an  important  feature 
of  the  feast ;  from  which,  thanks  to  the  courtesy  of  our  host, 
we  were  excused.  A  tabako-bon,  a  wooden  tray  with  fire-pot 
and  ash-pot,  stood  at  the  side  of  each  person.  Their  pipes, 
works  of  art,  engraved  and  inlaid  with  silver  and  ivory,  and 
enclosed  in  silken  pouches,  were  carried  in  the  breast  pocket  or 
belt.  These  straight  silver  tubes  with  a  small  bowl  hold  but  a 
pinch  of  tobacco,  which  three  whirls  exhaust.  The  tobacco  is 
said  to  be  almost  tasteless. 

The  feast  was  over  and  we  all  arose,  three  of  the  party  with 
pain  and  difficulty.  This  formal  and  prolonged  dinner  had 
lasted  for  three  hours,  and  as  conversation  with  the  ladies  was 
impossible,  and  we  could  not  appreciate  the  strange  food,  the 
feast  would  have  been  wearisome  in  the  extreme  had  there  not 
been  so  large  a  share  of  comicality  to  enliven  it. 

The  moment  of  departure  came,  congratulations  were  ex- 
changed, we  went  down-stairs,  and  were  rolled  away  in  our 

little  carriages  which  dashed  swiftly  homeward. 

163 


1Tn  Bamboo  Xanfcs, 


Harakiri,  thrusting-  a  knife  into  one's  abdomen,  is  an  ancient 
and  honorable  mode  of  suicide,  and  sporadic  cases  occur  to  this 
day.  For  this  they  employ  the  time-honored  instrument,  the 
short  sword.  At  Shinagawa,  a  suburb  of  Tokyo,  is  a  cele- 
brated cemetery  that  contains  the  graves  of  "  the  Forty- 
Seven  Ronin,"  who  dispatched  themselves  in  this  heroic  man- 
ner. We  visited  the  historic  spot  and  paid  our  respects  by 
purchasing  incense  from  the  priests  and  burning  it  on  the 
tombs,  where  hundreds  of  former  sticks  had  smouldered. 

The  following  account  of  their  exploits  and  death  was  writ- 
ten by  the  brilliant  scholar,  Mr.  B.  H.  Chamberlain;  it  is  better 
worth  reading  than  any  description  of  mine : 

"  Asano,  Lord  of  Ako,  while  at  Yedo  in  attendance  on  the 
Shogun,  was  entrusted  with  the  carrying  out  of  one  of  the 
greatest  state  ceremonies  of  those  times,  nothing  less  than  the 
reception  and  entertainment  of  an  envoy  from  the  Mikado. 
Now  Asano  was  not  so  well  versed  in  such  matters  as  in  the 
duties  of  a  warrior.  Accordingly  he  took  counsel  with  another 
nobleman,  named  Kira,  whose  vast  knowledge  of  ceremonies 
and  court  etiquette  was  equalled  only  by  the  meanness  of  his 
disposition.  Resenting  honest  Asano 's  neglect  to  fee  him  for 
the  information  which  he  had  grudgingly  imparted,  he  twitted 
and  jeered  at  him  for  a  country  lout  unworthy  the  name  of 
daimyo.  At  last,  he  actually  went  so  far  as  to  order  Asano  to 
bend  down  and  fasten  up  his  foot-gear  for  him.  Asano,  long- 
suffering  though  he  was,  could  not  brook  such  an  insult. 
Drawing  his  sword,  he  slashed  the  insolent  wretch  in  the  face 

and  would  have  made  an  end  of  him,  had  he  not  sought  safety 

164 


TTofeso. 


in  flight.  The  palace — for  this  scene  took  place  within  the 
precincts  of  the  palace — was  of  course  soon  in  an  uproar. 
Thus  to  degrade  its  majesty  by  a  private  brawl  was  a  crime 
punishable  with  death  and  confiscation.    Asano  was  condemned 


OFFICIAL  HARAKiRi. 

to  perform  harakiri  that  very  evening,  his  castle  was  forfeited, 
his  family  declared  extinct,  and  all  the  members  of  his  clan 
disbanded.  In  Japanese  parlance  they  became  ronins,  literally 
"wave-men,"  that  is,  wanderers,  fellows  without  a  lord  and 
without  a  home.    This  was  in  the  month  of  April,  1701. 

"  So  far  the  first  act.    Act  two  is  the  vengeance.    Oishi  Ku- 

165 


1hx  Bamboo  Xanfcs. 


ranosuke,  the  senior  retainer  of  the  dead  daimyo,  determines 
to  revenge  him,  and  consults  with  forty-six  others  of  his  most 
trusty  fellow-lieges  as  to  the  ways  and  means.  All  are  willing 
to  lay  down  their  lives  in  the  attempt.  The  difficulty  is  to 
elude  the  vigilance  of  the  government.  For  mark  one  curious 
point :  the  vendetta,  though  imperatively  prescribed  by  cus- 
tom, was  forbidden  by  law,  somewhat  as  duelling  is  in  certain 
western  countries.  Not  to  take  A^engeance  on  an  enemy 
involved  social  ostracism.  On  the  other  hand,  to  take 
it  involved  capital  punishment.  But  not  to  take  it  was 
an  idea  which  never  entered  the  head  of  any  chivalrous 
Japanese. 

"  After  many  secret  consultations,  it  was  determined  among 
the  ronins  that  they  should  separate  and  dissemble.  Several 
of  them  took  to  plying  trades.  They  became  carpenters, 
smiths,  and  merchants  in  various  cities,  by  which  means  some 
of  their  number  gained  access  to  Kira's  mansion  and  learned 
many  of  the  intricacies  of  its  corridors  and  gardens.  Oishi 
himself,  the  head  of  the  faithful  band,  went  to  Kyoto,  where 
he  plunged  into  a  course  of  drunkenness  and  debauchery.  He 
even  discarded  his  wife  and  children.  Thus  was  their  enemy, 
to  whom  full  reports  of  all  these  doings  were  brought  by  spies, 
lulled  at  last  into  complete  security.  Then  suddenly,  on  the 
night  of  January  30,  1703,  during  a  violent  snow-storm,  the 
attack  was  made.  The  forty-seven  ronins  forced  the  gate  of 
Kira's  mansion,  slew  his  retainers,  and  dragged  forth  the  high- 
born but  chicken-hearted  wretch  from  an  outhouse  in  which  he 

had  sought  to  hide  himself  behind  a  lot  of  firewood  and  char- 

166 


coal.  Respectfully,  as  befits  a  mere  gentleman  when  address- 
ing a  great  noble,  the  leader  of  the  band  requested  Kira  to 
perform  harakiri,  thus  giving  him  the  chance  of  dying  by  his 
own  hand  and  so  saving  his  honor.  But  Kira  was  afraid,  and 
there  was  nothing  for  it  but  to  kill  him  like  the  scoundrel  that 
he  was. 

"  That  done,  the  little  band  formed  in  order  and  marched 
(day  having  now  dawned)  to  the  temple  of  Sengakuji,  at  the 
other  end  of  the  city.  On  their  way  thither,  the  people  all 
flocked  out  to  praise  their  doughty  deed,  a  great  daimyo  whose 
palace  they  passed  sent  out  refreshments  to  them  with  mes- 
sages of  sympathy,  and  at  the  temple  they  were  received  by 
the  abbot  in  person.  There  they  laid  on  their  lord's  grave, 
which  stood  in  the  temple  grounds,  the  head  of  the  enemy  by 
whom  he  had  been  so  grievously  wronged.  Then  came  the 
official  sentence,  condemning  them  all  to  commit  harakiri. 
This  they  did  separately,  in  the  mansions  of  the  various 
daimyos  to  whose  care  they  had  been  entrusted  for  the  last 
few  days  of  their  lives,  and  then  they  also  were  buried  in  the 
same  temple  grounds,  where  their  tombs  can  be  seen  to  this 
day.  The  enthusiastic  admiration  of  a  whole  people  during 
two  centuries  has  been  the  reward  of  their  obedience  to  the 
ethical  code  of  their  time  and  country." 

The  Japanese  love  nature ;  they  find  in  all  her  favors  per- 
fect pleasure  and  complete  recreation.  They  show  an  appre- 
ciation, a  love  of  flowers  that  no  other  nation  displays ;  they 
cultivate  the  most  beautiful,  and  bouquet  making  is  a  fine  art. 

It  is  difficult  to  understand  just  how  the  Japanese  see  nature ; 

167 


1fn  bamboo  Xanfcs. 


for  fond  as  they  are  of  many  varieties,  they  care  little  for  the 
wild  flowers  that  grow  in  profusion  everywhere. 

To  see  the  floral  beauties  most  esteemed  and  their  festivals, 
one  should  remain  in  the  country  during  an  entire  year. 


TEMPLE  OF  KAMEIDO. 


The  plum  begins  blossoming  in  January  and  lasts  until 
March,  and  is  followed  by  the  peach,  cherry,  primrose,  pear, 
peony,  wistaria,  azalea,  iris,  convolvulus,  lotus,  chrysanthe- 
mum, and  the  tinted  maple-leaves  of  autumn. 

1 68 


ZTofepo, 


The  natives  are  ill-prepared  for  winter.  Their  houses, 
thinly  built  and  insufficiently  heated  by  charcoal  braziers,  are 
most  uncomfortable  during  the  short  severe  frost.  When 
more  warmth  is  required,  they  put  on  extra  garments  until 
they  look  like  animated  bundles.  They  retire  early,  as  the 
evenings  are  dreary ;  a  wick,  floating  in  a  cup  of  oil,  furnishes 
but  a  faint  light.  The  people  hail  the  return  of  spring,  and 
the  whole  population  turns  out  many  times  in  the  year  for  no 
other  purpose  than  to  visit  places  which  are  noted  for  certain 
kinds  of  blossoms.  We  saw  in  the  gardens  of  Kameido  groves 
of  plum-trees  gnarled  and  drooping  with  the  weight  of  three 
hundred  winters.  Crowds  of  people  gather  there  in  the  spring 
to  drink  sake  under  the  fragrant  boughs,  and  to  compose 
verses,  which,  written  on  paper,  are  hung  on  the  branches  as 
mementos  of  the  visit. 

The  cherry-blossom  has  been  called  "  the  King  of  Flowers," 
and  the  "  cherry- viewing, "  which  takes  place  in  April  after  the 
much-dreaded  winter  is  passed,  is  one  of  the  great  flower  festi- 
vals of  the  year.  Then  Ueno  Park  and  its  avenues,  lined  with 
cherry-trees  in  full  blossom,  is  thronged  with  admiring  crowds. 
Tea-houses,  shops,  and  booths  spring  into  being,  to  disappear 
when  the  holiday  ends.  They  never  weary  of  walking  under 
the  clouds  of  pink  blossoms  or  of  sipping  cherry-flower  water. 
The  festivities  last  for  two  weeks.  The  tree-peony  grows  to 
immense  size  and  its  flowers  reach  perfection  in  April.  In 
the  garden  of  Yeiju-in  is  a  peony  one  hundred  years  old  and 
eight  feet  high  that  is  considered  a  wonder,  as  much  of  the 

stalk  withers  in  winter,  leaving  only  an  inch  of  new  stem. 

169 


1ht  bamboo  SLanfcs, 

The  wistaria  is  seen  best  at  Kameido,  in  June,  where  the 
ancient  trellised  vines  bear  clusters  three  feet  in  length  and  a 
single  plant  affords  shade  to  a  hundred  people.  The  azaleas 
in  the  florists'  gardens  at  Okabo  are  glorious  in  early  May. 


WISTARIA. 

The  "  Iris-viewing"  is  a  time  of  general  rejoicing,  and  thou- 
sands resort  to  Hirikiri  to  gaze  at  the  great  ponds  filled  with 
iris  of  the  loveliest  colors.    The  river-boats,  gay  with  flags 

and  brilliant  with  lanterns  at  night,  are  covered  with  rush 

170 


mats,  and  pleasure-loving  Tokyo,  bound  to  the  iris  gardens, 
picnics  on  the  broad  stream.  The  scenery  is  of  surpassing 
beauty,  and  as  the  boat  glides  over  the  clear,  unruffled  water, 
the  experience  is  one  of  quiet,  elegant  pleasure.  This  festival 
lasts  but  one  week.  At  Shinobazu  is -a  small  lake  noted  for 
its  lotus  flowers,  which  in  August  scent  the  air.  The  castle 
moat  is  filled  with  them,  and  in  Ueno  Park  there  are  acres  of 
blooming  plants. 

In  October,  the  chrysanthemum,  the  national  flower, 
blooms ;  and  then  begins  the  greatest  festival  of  the  year.  It 
is  the  finest  display  of  its  kind  in  the  world,  and  is  seen  at  its 
best  in  Tokyo.  The  chrysanthemum  receives  undivided  atten- 
tion throughout  the  kingdom;  the  rich  employ  special  gar- 
deners to  cultivate  the  plants  in  their  parks,  and  the  poor  de- 
light in  purchasing  them  in  pots  for  a  few  sen. 

The  most  beautiful  display  is  at  Aoyama,  the  residence  of 

the  Empress- Dowager,  and  it  was  there  by  special  favor  we 

saw  them  in  perfection.    The  flowers  of  every  shade  and  color 

were  enormous — triumphs  of  horticultural  art.     Some  were 

grafted  with  half  a  dozen  varieties,  and  others  reduced  to  a 

single  stem  on  which  only  one  immense  blossom  was  allowed 

to  develop.    The  plants  are  cultivated  very  much  as  they  are 

with  us.    In  the  florists'  gardens  at  Dangozaka,  which  we 

visited  in  November,  the  flowers  are  arranged  to  represent 

human   beings,  mythological   figures,   trees,   shops,  castles, 

bridges,  and  peacocks  with  outspread  tails.    Flags  of  various 

colors  adorned  the  enclosure,  and  as  we  entered  an  attendant 

came  forward  to  explain  the  scenes  on  exhibition.    The  frames 

171 


1Tn  JSamboo  Xanfcs, 


are  made  of  bamboo,  the  chrysanthemums  in  pots  are  concealed 
behind  them,  and  the  flowers  drawn  through  the  openings  and 
trained  in  shape.  A  few  represented  celebrated  actors;  the 
costumes  were  formed  of  chrysanthemums,  and  the  faces  and 
hands  carved  in  wood  and  plastered. 

Japan,  always  lovely,  is  very  beautiful  in  the  autumn. 


tumn  leaves  are  named  by  poets  "the  brocades  of  Nature." 

The  most  interesting  month  of  winter  is  January.  The 
New  Year  festival  is  officially  observed,  and  every  house  has 
the  pine  and  bamboo  for  exterior  decorations,  while  flowering 
plum-trees,  single  or  double  blossomed,  white  or  pink,  trained 
into  all  sorts  of  odd  shapes  in  blue  porcelain  pots  or  wooden 
boxes,  make  pretty  the  interior  of  each  little  home.  The  pine, 
being  an  evergreen,  is  a  symbol  of  longevity.  The  bamboo 
is  also  an  evergreen  and  represents  length  of  life ;  the  stalk 
has  many  joints,  and  the  spaces  between  them  are  called  yo, 


THE  LOTUS  FOND.    UENO  PARK, 


The  natives  love  to  view 
not  only  the  flowers,  but 
they  delight  in  autumnal 
tints  and  flock  to  certain 
places  to  gaze  at  the  ma- 
ple and  other  leaves  red- 
dened by  early  frost. 
"Yamashime,  the 
nymph  of  the  moun- 
tains, is  said  to  weave  a 
variegated  brocade"  to 
cover  her  abode.  Au- 


172 


signifying  age.  It  therefore  "  joins  many  ages  in  itself. "  The 
plum  is  a  symbol  of  courage,  strength,  and  virtue.  Before  the 
entrance  gate  of  temples,  on  the  last  day  of  the  year,  the 
priests  light  great  fires  at  sunset  that  are  kept  burning  through- 
out the  night,  and  children,  each  with  a  few  feet  of  rope,  push 
through  the  crowd  to  ignite  one  end  at  the  sacred  fire.  If  they 
can  reach  home  with  the  light  and  keep  it  alive  until  morning, 
good  fortune  is  assured  for  the  coming  year.  This  is  not  play, 
but  a  religious  observance  sanctioned  by  ages. 

Ueno  Park,  lying  on  the  northern  boundary  of  Tokyo,  has 
other  attractions  besides  its  lovely  flowers.  We  rode  four 
miles  across  the  town  in  a  kuruma  with  two  men — one  to  pull, 
the  other  to  push — passing  on  the  way  a  rickety  tramroad 
with  diminutive  cars  crowded  with  natives,  and  wretched-look- 
ing stages  drawn  by  still  more  wretched-looking  ponies.  We 
ascended  the  cherry-lined  avenue — unfortunately  the  trees 
were  not  in  flower — to  a  point  that  overlooks  the  great  city. 
To  the  west,  we  saw  the  cone  of  Fujiyama  sharply  outlined 
against  the  sky.  Conspicuous  among  the  miles  of  low  houses 
were  the  castle,  Shiba,  and  the  long  sloping  roofs  of  temples 
standing  in  groves  of  pine,  cedar,  and  bamboo,  which  alone 
saves  the  city  from  one  monotonous  variation  of  gloomy  color. 

The  government  buildings,  of  western  architecture,  dis- 
please the  eye,  and  had  absolutely  no  interest  for  us. 

We  continued  the  walk  up  the  cherry-tree  avenue,  realizing 
how  lovely  it  must  be  when  the  air  is  full  of  "pink  clouds," 
hastily  examined  the  minor  attractions,  and  pushed  on  between 
rows  of  stone  lanterns  to  the  splendid  gold  gate  presented  by 

i73 


1Tn  Bamboo  Xanfcs, 


various  nobles  in  165 1,  as  a  memorial  to  Ieyasu.  The  carvings 
of  dragons,  birds,  foliage,  and  the  Tokugawa  crest  of  three 
asarum  leaves  are  fine  specimens  of  the  art.  An  ancient 
pagoda  and  a  ruined  temple  are  attractive  features  of  the 
grounds.  In  1867,  Ueno  was  the  scene  of  a  battle  between 
the  Imperialists  and  the  Shogunalists,  and  many  of  its  fine 
temples  and  libraries  were  destroyed  by  fire. 

A  little  farther  on  is  the  Museum,  a  handsome  building 
containing  industrial,  historical,  and  archeological  depart- 
ments and  a  valuable  collection  of  national  antiquities.  One 
can  there  follow  the  life  of  a  Japanese  family  through  the 
whole  course  of  a  day.  In  one  of  the  rooms  are  preserved 
specimens  of  the  crosses  used  in  the  seventeenth  century  for 
the  purpose  of  stamping  out  Christianity,  introduced  by  St. 
Francis  Xavier.  In  order  to  discover  the  converts,  they  re- 
sorted "to  the  infamous  obligation  of  trampling  on  the  cross." 
They  are  little  plates  of  yellow  copper,  on  which  are  repre- 
sented in  relief  the  instrument  of  punishment  on  which  Christ 
died,  and  other  sacreds  cenes. 

Among  the  objects  that  most  impressed  me  were  some 
ancient  images  of  clay.  In  connection  with  these  antiquities  it 
is  related  that  in  b.c.  2  the  brother  of  the  Mikado  died;  and 
"  his  attendants  were  buried  alive  round  the  tumulus  in  a  stand- 
ing position ;  for  many  days  they  died  not ;  but  day  and  night 
wept  and  cried.  The  Mikado,  hearing  the  sound  of  their  weep- 
ing, was  sad  and  sorry  in  his  heart  and  commanded  all  his  min- 
isters to  devise  some  plan  by  which  this  custom,  ancient  though 

it  was,  should  be  discontinued  for  the  future.  Accordingly, 

174 


DAIBUTSU.  UENO. 


when  the  Mikado  died  in  a.d.  3,  workers  in  clay  were  sent 
for  to  Izumo ;  who  made  images  of  men,  horses,  and  various 
other  things,  which  were  set  up  round  the  grave  instead  of  liv- 
ing beings. " 

On  leaving  that  room  and  its  uncanny  contents  I  seemed  to 
he  awakening  from  some  hideous  dream. 

Six  Shoguns  of  the  Tokugawa  dynasty  are  buried  here, 
and  the  temples  and  tombs,  very  like  those  at  Shiba,  are  monu- 
ments of  old  Japanese  art.  Two  hundred  and  sixty  daimyos 
dedicated  to  each  tomb  a  pair  of  stone  lanterns,  and  the  court- 
yards are  crowded  with  them. 

When  General  and  Mrs.  Grant  visited  Japan,  in  1879,  they 
planted  in  Ueno  Park  two  American  cypresses  as  a  lasting  re- 
membrance of  their  kindly  reception  and  the  friendship  estab- 
lished between  the  two  countries.  They  have  grown  large, 
and  under  their  pendulous  branches  stands  a  handsome  monu- 
ment erected  by  the  Japanese  as  a  token  of  special  regard  for 
this  distinguished  American. 

General  Grant  was  welcomed  royally.  Tokyo  spent  $50,- 
000  in  entertaining  him,  and  the  fete  given  in  his  honor  in  the 
grounds  of  the  Engineering  College  was  one  of  the  most  suc- 
cessful ever  held  in  the  capital — a  veritable  "  Feast  of  Lan- 
terns."  General  Grant  expressed  great  admiration  for  the 
Japanese,  and  dwelt  particularly  upon  the  politeness  and  atten- 
tion shown  to  old  people. 

"The  treaty"  made  with  the  United  States  in  1854,  fol- 
lowed by  a  revised  one  with  all  the  foreign  powers  in  1869,  has 

been  a  thorn  in  the  side  of  Japan  for  twenty-five  years.  It 
12  177 


1Tn  Bamboo  Xanfcs, 


opened  "  six  ports  to  foreign  trade,"  exempted  "  foreigners  from 
the  jurisdiction  of  Japanese  law  courts,"  provided  for  a  "scale 
of  import  duties  not  to  exceed  five  per  cent,"  "the  free  exer- 
cise of  the  Christian  religion,"  and  assistance  to  "shipwrecked 
sailors."  During  the  next  decade  Japanese  students  sent 
abroad  to  be  educated  returned  with  European  ideas,  result- 
ing in  a  strong  effort  being  made  by  the  government  to  set 
aside  this  treaty  so  favorable  to  foreigners  and  frame  a  new 
one  that  would  place  the  country  on  an  equality  with  western 
powers.  "Reform  was  in  the  air  —  reform,  a  dangerous 
change."  The  movement  was  most  active  with  the  young ;  the 
old  conservative  element  objected  strongly.  The  Japanese 
feared  foreign  emigration — the  destruction  of  their  national 
customs;  her  mines,  her  industries,  her  soil  even  might  pass 
under  foreign  control,  and  excitement  ran  high.  They  clam- 
ored for  everything  foreign,  and  then  clamored  for  the  extinc- 
tion of  foreigners.  The  people  broke  loose  and  mischief  was 
in  the  air.  In  the  riots  of  1889,  Count  Ookuma,  Minister  for 
Foreign  Affairs,  was  brutally  assaulted  and  lost  a  leg  by  the  ex- 
plosion of  a  dynamite  bomb  —  showing  unusual  leniency  in 
Japan,  where  complete  annihilation  is  the  rule.  Now  it  seems 
probable  that  the  new  treaty  concluded  with  the  United  States 
has  settled  the  vexed  question  of  "treaty  revision"  forever. 

Our  good  fortune  gained  us  admission  to  the  residence  of 
Count  Ookuma,  a  large  rambling  house  of  pure  Japanese  archi- 
tecture. No  European  furniture  was  allowed  to  disfigure  the 
interior,  and  the  gorgeous  kakemonos  that  hung  on  the  toko 
walls,  where  the  art  treasures  of  the  family  are  exhibited,  and 

178 


the  elaborate  arrangements  of  flowers  revealed  infinite  taste. 
With  charming  courtesy  room  after  room  was  shown,  all 
equally  artistic.  The  Japanese  are  certainly  the  most  courtly 
nation  in  the  world.  The  house  stood  far  back  in  grounds  that 
covered  several  acres,  laid  out  with  the  highest  art;  the  whole 
formed  a  perfect  exposition  of  Japanese  landscape  gardening. 
Grand  old  shade-trees,  hillocks  to  simulate  mountains,  rocks 
with  eccentric  names,  bridges  placed  for  ornament  over 
streams,  dwarf  pines  and  shrubs,  garden  seats  and  temple 
lanterns — every  detail  was  pleasantly  suggestive  of  art  and 
perfectly  adjusted  to  the  plan  of  the  garden.  To  make  the 
spot  really  delightful,  storks  animated  the  miniature  lakes, 
peacocks  with  outspread  tails  strutted  the  lawn,  and  flowers  of 
brilliant  colors  bloomed  in  sweet  confusion. 

On  our  return  we  heard  a  great  clatter  of  hoofs,  and  saw 
the  Emperor  and  Empress  coming.  They  were  in  plain  Eu- 
ropean dress,  and  drove  through  the  streets  in  a  semi-open 
carriage,  bowing  to  the  right  and  left,  and  were  followed  by 
guards  of  honor  splendidly  mounted.  The  coachmen  and 
footmen  were  dressed  exactly  like  those  of  the  German  Em- 
peror. Powdered  hair  and  tall  hats,  dead-gold  velvet  waist- 
coats, gorgeous  plush  breeches,  and  flesh-colored  stockings 
completed  the  livery.  The  Emperor  and  Empress  are  im- 
mensely popular  at  all  times,  and  whenever  they  appear  in 
public  receive  the  most  friendly  greetings.  The  sight  has  its 
own  fascination  for  those  who  do  not  mind  a  little  dust — and 
none  did.  The  Emperor  boasts  an  unbroken  descent  of  twenty- 
five  centuries,  and  it  is  only  a  few  years  since  his  person  was 

181 


/ 

1fn  JSamboo  Xanfcs* 

so  sacred  that  few  of  his  subjects  ever  saw  him.  Time  has 
changed  all  that — and  much  for  the  better.  Almost  daily  we 
rode  along  the  avenues  that  skirt  the  castellated  walls  of  the 
royal  palace — closed  to  the  public — and  gazed  longingly  at  the 
tall  trees  and  tiled  roofs  of  which  we  were  to  have  a  nearer 
view  on  the  Mikado's  birthday,  November  3d. 

Rain  never  prevented  our  going  out.  From  my  little  car- 
riage with  hood  drawn  up  and  nearly  concealed  by  an  oiled- 
paper  lap-robe,  I  could  peep  out  at  the  coolies — clad  in  straw 
rain-coats  and  mushroom-shaped  hats — and  all  the  world,  pro- 
tected by  cloaks  of  yellow  oiled  paper  and  oiled-paper  umbrellas 
and  perched  on  wooden  clogs  that  add  from  two  to  four  inches 
to  their  height.  They  appear  to  dislike  damp  feet  and  to  en- 
joy wet  legs.  The  streets  have  no  curbs  or  sidewalks,  and 
walking  and  riding  are  done  on  the  same  thoroughfare. 

On  bright  days  they  were  thronged  with  good-natured  peo- 
ple, strolling  bands  of  musicians,  venders  of  toys  and  food; 
and  occasionally  we  saw  a  festival  car  drawn  along  by  strings 
of  coolies,  or  a  funeral  procession  with  its  cheerful-looking  fol- 
lowers. Pedlers  go  about  with  long  bamboo  poles  over  the 
right  shoulder,  from  which  are  suspended  a  set  of  shelves  hold- 
ing all  manner  of  food  and  knick-knacks  for  sale.  Frequently 
the  way  was  blocked  by  bullock  carts  loaded  with  merchandise, 
or  by  coolies  with  pails  or  baskets  carried  on  their  shoulders. 
Children  of  all  ages  in  abundance  play  on  the  roadways,  with 
younger  ones  tied  to  their  backs,  and  how  they  escape  des- 
truction only  their  guardian  divinity  knows.    The  streets  that 

remain  exclusively  Japanese  are  lined  with  shops  of  small 

182 


tradesmen,  for  here  there  is  no  leisure  class — every  one  has 
something  to  sell.  The  shops  stocked  with  European  goods, 
shawls,  handkerchiefs,  stockings,  stuffs  for  dresses,  canned 
goods,  derby  hats,  knitted  garments,  and  worsted  yarns,  we 


STREET  DECORATIONS. 

avoided.  Before  the  entrance  were  women  crocheting  "  Tarn 
O'Shanters"  and  garments  of  startling  shades.  They  were  very 
much  in  earnest  and  worked  hard  to  achieve  a  monstrosity. 
Toddlers  with  black  beady  eyes,  bare  legs,  and  with  but  a  tuft 
of  hair  on  top  of  the  head,  looked  very  comical  in  skin-tight 

183 


In  Bamboo  Xante. 


jackets  of  brilliant  colors,  and  precious  cherubs  waddled  about 
perfectly  nude,  except  for  the  amulet  tied  about  the  waist  and 
a  gorgeous  "  Tarn"  on  the  head. 

"We  rarely  saw  a  person  in  Western  dress ;  except  of  course, 
the  uniformed  soldiers,  students,  or  the  police,  young-  men 
wearing  blue  coats  and  caps  with  three  bands  of  gold,  who  oc- 


GAME  OF  SAI. 

cupied  the  small  kiosks  at  the  street  corners.    The  salary  of  a 

policeman  is  only  about  six  yen  a  month.    His  duties  are  as 

light  as  his  pay.    I  never  saw  a  case  of  intoxication  and  never 

heard  a  profane  word — for  there  are  practically  no  oaths  in  the 

Japanese  language. 

There  are  more  than  eight  hundred  public  bath-houses  in 

184 


Tokyo  where  for  two  sen  a  person  can  take  a  bath  either  hot 
or  cold. 

In  the  evening  we  frequently  amused  ourselves  out  of  doors. 
Then  thousands  of  lanterns  are  lighted.  They  dangle  from 
kurumas,  swing  from  the  low  roofs,  glow  in  the  open  shop 
fronts,  and  flare  in  the  flag-decked  restaurants  and  tea-houses, 
from  which  issue  the  tinkling  of  samisen,  the  harsh  notes  of 
singing  girls,  and  revelry  of  sake-drinking  patrons. 

It  was  also  pleasant  to  wander  among  the  torch-lit  booths 
with  the  aimlessly  happy  multitude,  or  to  follow  a  stream  of 
pleasure-seekers  to  a  theatre  or  gathering-place  in  the  Ginza, 
where  magic  lanterns,  singing,  dancing,  playing  on  the  sami- 
sen were  a  few  of  the  many  attractions.  The  Japanese  are  a 
light-hearted,  pleasure-loving  people,  and  Tokyo  is  the  centre 
of  amusement. 

The  first  theatre  in  Japan  was  opened  early  in  the  seven- 
teenth century,  and  for  more  than  two  years  was  attended 
only  by  the  middle  and  lower  classes.  Recently  one  of  a 
higher  order  has  been  inaugurated,  that  is  patronized  by  the 
Mikado  and  the  court. 

One  of  the  peculiarities  of  a  Japanese  theatre  is  the  shape 
of  the  stage,  which  projects  on  one  or  both  sides  into  the  au- 
ditorium. This  projection,  called  the  "  flower  path,"  is  used  by 
the  actors  when  representing  some  one  starting  on  or  return- 
ing from  a  journey.  The  main  stage  resting  on  rollers  can  be 
turned  around,  actors  and  all,  when  a  change  of  scene  is  de- 
sired. The  actors  make  the  gestures  and  carry  on  the  conver- 
sation, while  persons  concealed  above  the  stage  sing  the  chorus, 

187 


In  Bamboo  SLanfcs. 

accompanied  by  the  samisen.  This  combination  of  discords 
and  ear-piercing  tones  that  issue  from  these  sources  is  enough 
to  drive  a  foreigner  out  of  the  place ;  and  usually  does.  AVo- 
men  do  not  appear  on  the  stage — their  parts  are  taken  by  men 
trained  for  that  purpose.  AVhen  the  play  is  about  to  begin,  it 
is  announced  by  rapping  with  a  wooden  hammer.  The  dramas 
usually  presented  are  based  upon  some  legendary  romance  or 
historical  fact,  like  the  story  of  the  Forty- Seven  Ronin,  and 
represent  the  manners,  customs,  and  dress  of  "Old  Japan." 
The  comedies  have  a  tendency  to  immorality  and  to  corrupt 
the  youth  of  the  country.  The  plays  usually  last  from  morn- 
ing until  midnight,  and  the  audience  make  preparations  to 
attend  the  theatre  as  if  they  were  going  on  a  picnic,  by  taking 
baskets  of  food;  there  they  partake  of  their  meals  with  the 
same  regularity  as  at  home.  The  women  are  always  seated  by 
themselves.  The  most  noted  actor  in  Japan  is  Ichikawa  Dan- 
juro,  celebrated  for  his  rare  histrionic  powers  and  his  agility  as 
a  dancer.  His  ancestors  for  nine  generations  have  pursued 
the  same  calling.  We  went  to  the  Shintomi-za  theatre  one 
evening  to  see  him  in  his  best  character.  We  employed  an 
interpreter,  secured  a  box  overlooking  the  stage,  and  prepared 
to  enjoy  the  performance.  Alas !  our  guide  was  a  failure  as  an 
expositor ;  but  he  scored  amazing  success  in  disposing  of  the 
lunch  provided  at  his  suggestion.  Danjuro  appeared  and,  I 
suppose,  played  his  part  well,  according  to  the  Japanese  stan- 
dard ;  but  the  people  furnished  most  of  the  entertainment  for 
us.    The  pit  was  crowded  by  a  more  or  less  tearful  audience, 

everv  member  of  which  smoked  a  pipe.    Between  the  acts 

188 


servants  from  tea-houses  appeared,  bearing  lacquered  trays 
with  tea,  rice,  hard-boiled  eggs,  sweetmeats,  and  fruit,  that  dis- 
appeared like  magic.  We  remained  several  hours,  notwith- 
standing the  stifling  fumes  and  the  persecution  of  the  music. 

Some  years  ago  an  Italian  opera  troupe  visited  the  country, 
and  the  manager  of  a  Japanese  theatre  hired  the  company  to  sing 
before  a  native  audience,  who  listened  attentively  and  behaved 
with  propriety,  until  "  they  had  recovered  from  the  first  shock 
of  surprise;"  then  they  were  seized  with  paroxysms  of  laugh- 
ter at  the  high  tones  of  the  soprano.  They  "  laughed  at  the 
absurdities  of  European  singing  until  the  tears  rolled  down 
their  cheeks,  and  then  they  stuffed  their  sleeves  into  their 
mouths"  in  a  vain  effort  to  control  themselves.  The  experi- 
ment was  not  repeated. 

Public  exhibitions  of  wrestling  are  given  in  structures  of 
bamboo  decorated  with  many-colored  flags.  We  liked  to  watch 
the  fat  little  fellows  in  their  contests.  We  could  have  seats  be- 
low on  the  ground,  or  could  climb  the  steep  ladder  to  benches 
reserved  in  the  gallery ;  we  took  the  latter,  and  looked  down 
upon  the  performance.  The  wrestlers  are  called  into  the  arena 
by  a  herald  and  enter  from  opposite  sides.  They  wear  nothing 
but  an  apron  of  satin  or  velvet,  richly  embroidered  in  gold 
with  all  manner  of  objects  and  bordered  with  a  fringe  reaching 
to  the  feet.  Their  hair,  plaited  in  a  knot,  forms  a  tuft  on  their 
heads.  The  umpire,  who  bears  in  his  hands  a  fan,  stands  at 
one  end,  and  at  the  foot  of  each  pillar  sits  a  veteran  wrestler 
as  a  judge  of  appeals.    When  a  round  is  finished,  the  umpire 

lifts  his  fan  on  the  winner's  side,  and  if  a  discussion  arises,  the 

189 


IFn  bamboo  Xanfcs. 


judges  settle  it.  There  are  forty-eight  prescribed  devices  in  the 
art,  each  of  which  has  eight  minor  divisions.  These  are  not  in 
accordance  with  Western  scientific  rules.  The  Kimura  family 
monopolize  the  business,  and  a  man  who  desires  to  become  a 
wrestler  must  be  a  pupil  of  a  Kimura  and  adopt  the  name. 


WRESTLING. 

The  Buddhist  temple  of  Ekoin  is  a  noted  place  for  wrestling 
matches  in  the  spring  and  fall,  when  the  combatants  do  their 
best  to  obtain  promotion,  and  derives  its  only  means  of  sup- 
port from  the  crowds  that  flock  there  to  witness  these  feats  of 
skill. 

190 


One  morning  was  agreeably  spent  in  the  Arsenal  and  its  ex- 
tensive garden,  larger  and  more  beautiful  even  than  that  of 
Count  Ookuma,  and  another  in  the  Yushu-kwan,  a  museum 
of  arms  containing  an  interesting  collection  of  old  Japanese 
armor,  swords  and  scabbards,  and  a  few  Korean  relics.  The 


BOTANIC  GARDENS. 

following  account  of  a  street  fight  which  occurred  in  1864  was 

written  by  a  native : 

"  The  Choshiu  troops  were  defended  by  armor,  their  leader 

clad  in  a  suit  of  armor  tied  with  grass-green  silken  strings,  and 

covered  with  a  garment  of  Yamato  brocade.     Over  this  he 

wore  a  surcoat  of  white  gauze  with  figures  drawn  on  it  in 

191 


Un  JBamboo  Xanfcs. 


black.  He  bestrode  a  charger,  a  baton  of  gold  paper  in  his 
hand.  Before  him  went  flags  and  banners  and  two  field-pieces, 
with  a  company  of  thirty  spearmen.  The  spears,  crossing 
each  other,  looked  like  a  hedge  of  bamboo  grass ;  bullets  flew 
over  his  head  like  axle-trees.  Helmets  and  cuirasses  that  had 
been  cast  away  by  their  owners,  spears,  pikes,  bows,  and  mus- 
kets, were  lying  about  in  quantities.  A  second  leader  was 
mounted  on  horseback,  and  held  a  baton  of  white  paper  in  his 
hand.  He  wore  a  mantle  of  scarlet  embroidered  with  his  crest, 
the  trefoil,  and  under  it  a  suit  of  armor  adorned  with  purple 
fastenings.  His  head-covering  was  a  warrior's  cap  of  bronze 
leather. " 

The  hours  flew  in  visits  to  markets  for  the  sale  of  fruits, 
vegetables,  and  fish.  A  large  portion  of  the  population  of 
Japan  are  engaged  in  the  fishing  industry;  the  waters  are  alive 
with  schools  of  fish  of  all  kinds,  besides  many  other  forms  of 
marine  life.  The  whole  fishery  represents  a  value  of  $20,000,- 
000;  the  fresh-water  catch  alone  amounts  to  $1,000,000.  We 
liked  to  examine  the  pyramids  of  curious  vegetables  and  the 
great  variety  of  grotesque-looking  monsters  of  the  deep,  and 
watch  the  traffic ;  and  one  day  we  made  an  interesting  discov- 
ery in  connection  with  it.  After  a  selection  is  made  the  buyer 
resorts  to  a  neighboring  tea-house  for  refreshment,  and  there 
his  purchases  are  brought  for  his  inspection,  and,  if  satisfac- 
tory, the  goods  are  paid  for  and  the  bargain  is  concluded. 
With  the  exception  of  the  mandarin  orange,  the  fruits  are  al- 
most tasteless.  Not  a  few  American  varieties  are  being  culti- 
vated in  the  Land  of  the  Rising  Sun — especially  apples,  which 

192 


A  WARRIOR  IN  FULL  UNIFORM. 


are  grown  in  large  quantities  in  the  island  of  Yezo  for  expor- 
tation. 

There  are  no  happier  children  in  the  world  than  the  Japa- 
nese. Parents  love  their  offspring  tenderly,  as  one  would  con- 
clude from  the  poetry  they  write  on  the  appearance  of  each 
new  tooth,  and  two  days  are  set  apart  in  the  spring  as  festivals 
for  them.  The  fete  for  girls  occurs  on  the  3d  of  March,  and 
every  doll-shop  in  Tokyo  and  other  cities  is  gayly  decorated 
and  stocked  with  tiny  models.  Dolls  are  purchased  and  dis- 
played in  every  little  home ;  those  stored  away  from  previous 
anniversaries  are  brought  out,  and  the  morning  is  occupied  in 
decorating  the  doll-stand,  placed  in  the  best  room  in  the  house. 
The  miniature  emperors  and  empresses  are  first  put  in  places 
of  highest  honor  on  the  top  row,  and  court  ladies  in  full  dress, 
the  bands  of  musicians,  the  prime  ministers  on  the  right  and 
left ;  dolls  representing  mythical  or  historical  personages,  such 
as  "the  old  couple  of  Takasago"  or  some  great  poetess,  with  a 
sprinkling  of  ordinary  dolls.  Musical  instruments,  flowers  ar- 
ranged in  vases,  paper  lanterns,  and  other  pretty  articles  are 
tastefully  laid  out  at  respectful  distances  from  the  august  occu- 
pants of  the  throne  above.  This  done,  the  girls  are  left  to  en- 
joy themselves,  which  they  often  do  by  having  mock  dinner- 
parties and  other  ceremonials.  If  there  is  a  new-born  daugh- 
ter in  the  family,  models  of  the  Japanese  court  in  ancient  cos- 
tumes— now  never  seen — are  given  to  her  on  her  first  festival ; 
if  the  family  are  in  prosperous  circumstances,  tiny  dinner  ser- 
vices in  porcelain  and  lacquer,  work-boxes,  and  household 
utensils  are  brought,  to  be  kept  until  her  marriage,  when  they 

i95 


1Fn  JSamboo  Xanfcs* 


are  sent  to  the  house  of  the  bridegroom.  As  there  are  no 
spinsters  in  Japan,  the  husband  invariably  gets  the  entire  col- 
lection. 

The  festival  for  boys  is  celebrated  on  the  5th  of  May,  and 
models  of  miniature  warriors  in  full  armor  are  purchased  for 
the  new-born  son.  A  long  bamboo  pole,  with  a  huge  fish  float- 
ing from  the  top,  is  set  up  before  each  little  house,  and  is  a 
most  effective  sign.  It  represents  the  carp  swimming  up  a 
stream  against  the  current,  and  is  a  symbol  of  the  success  a 
boy  is  expected  to  achieve  in  his  struggles  with  the  world. 

Feasts  are  given  on  both  occasions,  much  rejoicing  is  heard, 
and  friends  send  presents  and  congratulations. 

In  riding  through  the  streets  one  day  I  dropped  my  fan — a 
cheap  little  thing  I  had  purchased  at  Vancouver — and  not 
worth  stopping  to  recover.  A  week  later  I  entered  a  small 
shop,  and  there  sat  the  proprietor,  fanning  himself  with  the 
lost  article.  My  initials  were  on  it,  and  purely  for  mischief  I 
pointed  to  it  and  said,  "  Ikura?"  ("  How  much?")  As  he  shook 
his  head  and  clutched  his  treasure,  a  faint,  inscrutable  smile 
passed  over  his  countenance.  It  was  the  ugliest  and  least  de- 
sirable fan  in  his  shop,  and  I  left  him  in  undisturbed  possession 
of  his  souvenir.  Later,  I  learned  that  the  Japanese  have  a 
superstition  that  if  a  man  find  a  fan  lying  in  the  road,  he  is 
likely  in  the  future  to  become  a  member  of  some  noble  family. 
I  rejoice  to  have  so  materially  assisted  in  another's  advance- 
ment. 

One  evidence  of  the  piety  and  energy  of  old  times  is  seen  in 

the  number  and  beauty  of  the  temples  built  and  kept  in  repair 

196 


all  over  the  kingdom,  but  we  were  greatly  impressed  by  the  ap- 
parent decay  of  religion.  Their  church  festivals  are  holiday 
gatherings,  their  pilgrimages  social  outings.  The  Shinto  is 
the  true  religion  of  Japan,  and  the  rites  prescribed  by  it  are 
ancestor  worship  and  filial  piety.  The  worship  is  as  ancient  as 
the  race.  Their  private  devotions  are  limited  to  a  "  God-shelf" 
in  every  house,  on  which  is  a  Shinto  shrine,  enclosing  the 
memorial  tablets  of  deceased  relatives,  and  a  Shinto  mirror  of 
steel,  in  which  they  are  supposed  to  see  their  sins,  as  they  do 
their  distorted  features.  The  great  Buddhist  temple  of  Asa- 
kusa  is  the  most  popular  in  Tokyo,  and  there  religion  and 
pleasure  mingle  in  delightful  disorder.  Several  hundred  years 
ago,  a  small  figure  of  Kwannon,  the  goddess  of  mercy,  was 
found  in  the  river  near  by.  It  was  declared  to  have  dropped 
from  the  skies ;  it  has  since  been  preserved  as  a  sacred  relic, 
and  can  be  seen  to  this  day  in  the  temple.  No  goddess  has 
so  many  worshippers  as  she,  or  was  ever  adored  with  more 
ardent  devotion.  The  temple  and  grounds  are  the  great  holi- 
day resort  of  the  middle  and  lower  classes ;  the  neighborhood 
is  well  supplied  with  theatres  and  tea-houses ;  and  the  broad 
paved  avenue  that  leads  to  the  entrance  is  lined  with  booths, 
where  photographic  views,  all  manner  of  ingenious  toys,  gew- 
gaws, sweetmeats,  and  food  are  sold.  I  was  urged  to  try  a 
small  brown  rice-cake,  an  innocent-looking  affair,  and  shall 
never  forget  how  horrible  it  was;  I  had  tasted  some  awful 
mixtures  in  the  past  month,  but  nothing  that  could  compare 
with  that  morsel  fried  in  fish-oil. 

As  we  walked  along,  throngs  of  children  with  queer  eyes 

197 


1Tn  Bamboo  Xanfcs, 


and  untidy  noses  clustered  around  us  and  pulled  our  skirts. 
This  we  endured  with  a  good  grace  for  a  while,  until,  weary, 
we  brought  it  to  an  end.  A  Japanese  friend  had  kindly  pro- 
vided us  with  a  phrase  to  use  when  annoyed  in  this  way,  and 
we  tried  it  with  telling  effect.  They  shrank  away  with  horror 
depicted  on  their  faces,  but,  as  I  know  neither  the  meaning  of 
it  nor  how  to  spell  it,  I  will  not  attempt  to  write  it.  We  had 
a  second  experience  at  Kyoto  with  the  same  satisfactory  result. 

The  natives  of  the  Orient  are  well  known  for  their  super- 
stition, and  the  shops  in  which  charm-bags  are  sold  are  num- 
berless. A  charm  usually  has  the  name  of  some  god  upon  it, 
or  a  quotation  from  Buddhist  scripture.  The  custom  of  wear- 
ing an  amulet  is  universal;  young  children  wear  them  tied 
about  the  waist,  adults  conceal  them  in  the  girdle,  and  the 
aged,  anxious  to  stand  well  with  the  gods,  wear  any  number  of 
them.  There  is  a  superstitious  impression  that  they  have  oc- 
cult power  to  ward  off  evil,  and  to  drop  one  is  accounted  un- 
lucky and  foretells  speedy  death.  While  in  the  towns  super- 
stition is  to  some  extent  dying  out,  it  still  holds  undivided  sway 
in  isolated  provinces,  where  the  natives  have  not  been  brought 
into  contact  with  Europeans.  Farther  on  are  booths  filled 
with  idols  of  brass  and  wood,  incense-burners,  and  other  devo- 
tional articles. 

We  came  upon  a  small  shrine  of  Jizo  and  a  prayer  wheel — 

the  symbol  of  faith.    The  prayers  are  not  written  as  in  India ; 

the  suppliant  merely  turns  the  wheel,  with  the  simple  request 

that  Jizo  will  let  his  sins  pass  by  unnoticed,  that  he  may  not 

be  punished  for  them  in  a  future  state.    The  idea  is  essentially 

198 


this :  that  our  misfortunes  are  the  result  of  sins  committed  in  a 
past  existence;  that  acts  and  thoughts  outlive  a  man's  life  and 
are  projected  beyond  to  shape  other  lives  yet  unborn ;  that 
which  we  are  is  the  consequence  of  that  which  we  have  been. 
The  entrance  gate  is  a  high  wooden  structure  painted  red,  with 


DAIBUTSU,  ASAKASA. 


hideous  figures  of  the  Ni-o  (Two  Kings)  on  either  side,  pro- 
tected by  wire  netting.  The  network  was  spotted  with  bits  of 
chewed  paper,  thrown  by  persons  who  believe  that  if  they 
stick  the  prayers  written  on  them  will  be  granted.    The  gate 

was  hung  with  exaggerated  straw  sandals,  placed  there  by 

199 


1fn  bamboo  Xanfcs* 

coolies  anxious  to  excel  in  walking.  The  main  temple,  of 
wood  painted  a  dark  red,  is  covered  by  an  enormous  sweeping 
roof,  inseparable  from  structures  of  this  class.  Between  the 
huge  circular  columns  of  the  portico,  paper  lanterns,  ten  feet 
long,  dangled  from  the  eaves.  The  custom  of  not  wearing 
shoes  in  the  temple  is  not  observed  here ;  and  as  the  floor  was 
exceedingly  dirty,  we  were  correspondingly  thankful.  The 
decorations  of  the  interior  are  unique.  Among  a  confused 
mass  of  lanterns  covered  with  yellow  dragons  and  banners 
with  strange  devices,  that  hung  from  the  cross-beams,  we  saw 
gaudily  framed  prints  of  steamship  companies  and  flocks  of 
pigeons  that  find  unmolested  homes  among  the  handsome 
wood-carvings  of  the  ceiling.  Clouds  of  incense  rise  continu- 
ally from  a  massive  bronze  burner  near  the  entrance.  A 
seated  image  of  Bin-zuru,  a  Buddhist  saint  who  has  a  special 
reputation  as  a  healer,  is  worn  smooth  and  glossy  by  constant 
friction.  Believers  rub  the  affected  part  against  a  like  portion 
of  the  god,  seemingly  with  more  danger  of  contracting  than  of 
curing  disease.  Priests  with  heads  completely  shaved,  and 
wearing  very  loose  garments  with  wide  sleeves,  sit  on  the  floor 
in  front  of  the  shrines  and  relics.  The  chancel  is  separated 
from  the  nave  by  a  coarse  wire  frame ;  but  an  offering  to  the 
priest  admitted  us.  The  high  altar,  draped  with  fine  old  em- 
broidery, supported  the  beautiful  gilded  shrine  that  contains 
the  historic  image  of  Kwannon.  Around  it  are  smaller  fig- 
ures, gilded  and  painted,  candlesticks,  bells,  idols,  incense 
vases  of  bronze,  and  other  trappings  of  Buddhist  worship. 

The  greatest  noise  and  confusion  prevailed,  and  we  hastened 

200 


out  after  casting  a  few  sen  into  the  big  wooden  treasury  box 
and  purchasing  little  packets  of  sweet-smelling  sticks  to  burn 
in  honor  of  the  goddess.  An  image  of  Jizo,  the  especial 
patron  of  children  and  all  who  are  in  trouble,  occupies 
a  building  in  the  rear.  Ranged  in  line  about  him  were 
countless  small  stone  figures  of  dead  little  ones  placed 
there  by  afflicted  parents.  It  was  really  a  very  pathetic 
sight.  An  innumerable  number  of  stone  images  of  this 
popular  deity  are  to  be  met  on  the  highways  throughout 
the  land. 

The  building  that  contains  the  "  Revolving  Library"  also 
deserves  notice.  On  the  eaves  are  rich  carvings  of  lions,  and 
the  interior  is  still  mere  beautifully  decorated.  The  shrine  of 
gorgeous  red  lacquer  contains  a  complete  collection  of  Bud- 
dhist scriptures.  As  an  ordinary  lifetime  is  too  short  to  enable 
an  individual  to  read  all  these  books,  it  is  arranged  that  the 
same  degree  of  merit  may  be  obtained,  and  the  reward  will  be 
long  life  and  prosperity,  if  he  "  will  cause  the  library  to  revolve 
three  times  on  its  axis."  It  was  an  opportunity  not  to  be  neg- 
lected— we  paid  the  fee,  and,  assisted  by  willing  hands,  accom- 
plished the  feat. 

The  temple  grounds  are  now  a  public  park,  where  amuse- 
ments of  all  kinds  flourish.  One  sees  on  every  side  shooting- 
alleys,  acrobats,  wrestlers,  jugglers,  theatres,  and  sellers  of 
toys  and  sweets — all  doing  a  thriving  business.  In  the  midst 
of  this  medley  was  a  troop  of  monkeys  that  snatched  raven- 
ously at  the  food  tendered  them,  and  then  expressed  their 
gratitude  by  bowing  to  the  ground  in  true  Japanese  fashion. 

20I 


Hn  Bamboo  Xanbs. 


We  saw  a  collection  of  strange  plants  and  curious  birds  on 
exhibition  in  a  native  house ;  also  a  crude  panorama  of  our 
Civil  War.  The  most  extraordinary  sight  of  all  was  the  or- 
derly, good-natured  crowd  hobbling  along  with  great  clatter 
of  wooden  sandals,  bent  on  having  a  good  time.  They  still 
eye  foreigners  with  some  curiosity,  but  not  unpleasantly ;  and 


THE  BELL  TEMPLE  AT  ASAKASA. 


courtesy  and  good  order  reigned  where  individuals  brushed 

against  each  other  at  every  turn.    The  Japanese  are  the  most 

interesting  people  it  has  been  my  good  fortune  to  be  among. 

This  gathering-place  has  frequently  been  compared  to  an 

202 


TTofe£0. 


English  county  fair ;  but  it  seems  to  me  its  counterpart  cannot 
be  found  on  this  planet. 

Our  remaining  weeks  in  Japan  were  getting  few,  and  we 
had  still  much  to  see.  Our  stay  in  Tokyo  had  been  entirely 
satisfactory,  our  relations  with  our  landlady  had  been  emi- 
nently pleasant,  but  we  felt  impelled  to  leave  for  Kyoto, ' 
whither  an  irresistible  curiosity  was  drawing  us.  We  sorrow- 
fully packed  our  traps  and  said,  not  good-by,  but  an  rcvoir, 
and  departed,  after  a  droll  and  exciting  adventure.  I  cannot 
resist  the  temptation  of  putting  it  down.  The  Japanese  offi- 
cials reserve  to  themselves  the  right  of  regulating  the  affairs 
of  tourists,  and  sometimes  avail  themselves  of  it.  Our  party 
of  three  arrived  at  the  station  on  our  way  to  Yokohama,  one 
lady  remaining  without  while  we  two  went  in  to  purchase  the 
tickets.  My  companion  laid  down  the  money  for  two  and  I 
the  price  of  one.  The  clerk  handed  us  two  tickets,  took  pay 
for  two,  and  refused  to  sell  a  third.  He  had  his  own  system 
of  logic ;  he  saw  but  two  persons  and  declined  to  be  a  party  to 
such  extravagance.  Entreaty  did  not  melt  his  heart ;  he  was 
inexorable.  We  used  all  the  Japanese  words  we  knew  and 
some  that  were  not  Japanese,  but  all  in  vain — he  merely  shook 
his  head  with  an  Oriental  composure  that  nearly  drove  us 
frantic.  As  the  train  was  about  to  start  I  prevailed  upon  my 
friend  to  take  the  tickets  and  go  on  board,  while  I  persisted  in 
my  task.  As  he  could  neither  understand  nor  I  explain,  the 
case  was  serious.  Fortunately,  at  the  very  last  moment  an 
official  less  capricious  appeared,  who  was  willing  to  do  me 

the  favor  of  allowing  me  to  squander  my  own  if  I  wished  to. 

203 


in  Bamboo  %anfcs, 

I  expressed  my  boundless  gratitude  in  one  word,  "Arigato," 
("Thank  you"),  grasped  my  ticket,  rushed  through  the  turn- 
stile, dashed  down  the  platform  as  the  whistle  for  departure 
sounded,  leaped  into  a  carriage,  and  the  guard  banged  the 
door. 

204 


CHAPTER  V. 


THE  TOKAIDO. 

The  most  celebrated  highway  in  Japan  is  the  old  Tokaido, 
bordered  on  either  side  with  ancient  cryptomerias,  and  along 
which  the  daimyos  with  princely  magnificence  used  to  travel 
on  their  way  to  the  Shogun's  court  at  Tokyo. 

In  its  palmy  days  what  scenes  it  must  have  presented? 
Norim'ons  (palanquins  of  the  nobles),  kagos  (basket  convey- 
ances for  the  middle  class),  packhorses  carrying  merchandise, 
and  crowds  of  men,  women,  and  children  on  foot  travelling 
slowly  and  stopping  frequently  at  tea-houses  for  rest  and  re- 
freshment. When  the  trains  of  two  princes — either  on  horse- 
back or  carried  in  chairs — met,  it  was  etiquette  for  the  one  of 
lower  degree  to  alight  and  withdraw  with  his  train  to  the  side 
of  the  road  until  the  other  had  passed,  and  woe  betide  him  if 
he  failed  to  submit  to  his  superior.  Even  down  to  the  present 
time  foreigners  ignorant  of  the  practice  of  the  country  occa- 
sionally have  unpleasant  encounters  with  conservative  mem- 
bers of  this  haughty  class,  who  cling  rigidly  to  the  customs  of 
"Old  Japan,"  and  are  compelled  by  them  to  dismount  and 
give  the  road.  One  day,  in  riding  along  the  highway  near 
Numazu,  we  espied  one  of  the  old  regime  approaching;  and, 

rather  than  subject  American  citizens  to  a  humiliating  or- 

205 


1Fn  Bamboo  Xanfcs, 


deal,  we  fled  up  the  steps  to  a  shrine  and  waited  for  his  ex- 
cellency to  pass  by. 

Numerous  trains  of  two-sworded  men  in  feudal  war-costume 
were  a  striking  feature  of  this  road  in  the  good  old  times. 
They  crowded  the  towns,  too — for  a  nobleman  never  appeared 
in  public  without  armed  defenders;  and  two-sworded  men 
were  legion.  They  passed  out  of  existence  with  feudalism  in 
1868,  and  their  beautiful  swords  have  degenerated  into  curios. 
The  Japanese  swords,  which  rival  the  famous  products  of 
Damascus  and  Toledo,  that  could  "be  bent  into  a  circle,"  are 
wrought  by  armorers  quite  as  famous.  They  are  "made  of 
soft,  elastic,  magnetic  iron,  combined  with  hard  steel,"  and  so 
well  tempered  as  to  cut  through  a  copper  coin  without  turning 
the  edge.  The  ancient  sword  for  dispatching  one's  enemies 
is  three  feet  long,  has  two  edges,  and  is  wielded  with  both 
hands.  The  short  sword,  for  dispatching  one's  self,  is  less 
than  ten  inches  in  length.  The  sword-sellers  are  numerous, 
and  in  their  shops  one  may  see  many  an  ancient  blade,  ex- 
quisitely finished,  that  has  been  tried  and  tested  in  the  wars  of 
feudal  times.  The  scabbards,  too,  richly  inlaid  with  silver  on 
the  bronze,  bear  testimony  to  the  cunning  of  the  workmen 
who  wrought  the  weapon. 

The  Tokaidd  skirts  the  coast  along  a  strip  of  flat  country 
lying  between  the  hills  and  the  sea.  From  Yokohama  we 
travelled  to  Kyoto  in  the  west  by  the  Tokaido  railway,  break- 
ing the  journey  at  several  points  of  interest.  At  the  small 
station  of  Kozu,  Ave  left  the  train,  devoting  a  half-hour  to  the 

heach  and  its  fine  sea-views  before  taking  the  tram-car  to 

206 


Yumoto,  where  we  hired  kurumas  and  two  men  each  to  carry 
ns  to  Miyanoshita,  a  resort  in  the  mountains  well  known  by 
reputation  for  its  scenery  of  peculiar  richness  and  variety,  its 
natural  warm  baths,  and  the  charming  excursions  in  the  vi- 


DOGASHIMA,  NEAR  MIYANOSHITA. 


cinity.    We  passed  through  picturesque  hamlets  embedded  in 

foliage,  and  wound  up  among  the  gently  swelling  hills  with 

their  tiny  waterfalls  and  crystal  rivulets  trickling  down  the 

sides.    Nature  has  been  very  lavish  in  these  wilds,  and  it  was 

the  loveliest  short  ride  I  enjoyed  in  Japan. 
14  209 


1Tn  Bamboo  Xan&s, 


We  took  up  our  quarters  at  the  Fujita  Hotel — an  excellent 
one  in  foreign  style.  The  walks  were  exhilarating-,  and  though 
Ave  had  kagos  with  us — as  the  paths  in  many  places  are  rough 
and  precipitous — we  seldom  rode,  and  the  coolies  had  a  sine- 
cure. Day  after  day  of  glorious  sunshine  we  spent  in  that 
dreamy,  delicious  air,  wandering  through  valleys  watered  by 
mountain  streams,  forcing  our  way  through  tangled  thickets 
and  beds  of  matted  fern,  visiting  temples  and  shrines  without 
number,  stopping  in  quaint  little  villages  to  rest  and  to  sip 
tea,  and  climbing  heights  for  views  of  Fujiyama  and  other 
lofty  peaks.  The  sweet  air  was  fragrant  with  the  spicy  odors 
of  the  pine-trees;  azaleas,  scrub-bamboo,  dense  clumps  of  ferns 
and  flowers  in  profusion  surrounded  us,  and  vines  tangled  the 
branches  overhead.  The  evenings  on  the  veranda  were  not 
less  delightful.  We  left  there  reluctantly,  sending  our  bag- 
gage on  by  packhorse,  while  we  rambled  over  the  hills  to 
Hakone,  five  miles  distant.  The  weather  was  lovely;  the 
varied  vegetation  was  glorious  in  autumn  gold  and  copper ; 
and  although  we  lingered  to  gather  fronds  of  fern,  scarlet 
lilies,  and  relics  of  departing  summer,  our  destination  was 
reached  in  less  than  three  hours. 

Hakone,  at  the  head  of  a  lake  of  the  same  name,  is  one 
thousand  feet  higher  than  Miyanoshita,  its  rival,  as  a  summer 
resort.  The  hotel  overlooks  this  pretty  sheet  of  water  five 
miles  long-,  and  so  attractive  that  we  handed  the  landlord  our 
passports  to  be  inspected  at  leisure,  hastened  to  the  shore,  en- 
gaged a  boat,  and  soon  were  floating  along  its  rippling  surface. 
The  lake  is  encircled  by  mountains  that  slope  to  the  water's 

2IO 


XTbe  Uofeatfco. 


edge,  and  small  farms  and  hamlets  fringe  the  shore;  but 
everything  is  totally  eclipsed  by  the  sublime  view  of  Fujiyama 
peering  down  from  the  clouds — a  picture  that  would  make  the 
reputation  of  any  artist  that  could  transfer  it  to  canvas.  Re- 
cent snows  had  covered  the  mountain  with  a  pure  white  mantle 
dazzling  to  the  eyes  in  the  autumn  sunshine,  and  no  descrip- 
tion which  I  could  give  would  approach  the  reality.  Fujiyama 
is  singularly  impressive,  and  like  Mauna  Loa,  Kinchinjanga, 
and  Shasta,  commands  a  half  unwilling  reverence. 

The  minor  attractions  of  Hakone  are  the  temple  of  Gongen 
shaded  by  old  pines,  the  Emperor's  summer  palace,  two  iron 
rice  boilers — relics  of  the  twelfth  century — and  excursions  in 
every  direction,  the  most  beautiful  of  which  is  that  across  the 
Ten  Province  Pass  to  Atami  on  Odawara  Bay.  The  autumn 
was  fine,  and  the  day  spent  there  brought  instinctively  to 
mind  the  remembrance  of  lovely  Alp-sheltered  Nice,  its 
orange  groves,  and  the  blue  Mediterranean  flare. 

Shimoda,  a  little  to  the  south,  was  first  visited  by  Commo- 
dore Perry  in  1854,  and  there  four  United  States  marines  are 
buried.  Our  first  envoy,  Townsend  Harris,  was  formally  in- 
stalled in  the  little  town  in  1856  and  resided  there  for  years 
until  Yokohama  was  substituted  as  an  open  port. 

We  rode  fifteen  miles  by  kuruma  along  the  Tokaido  to  the 

station  of  Numazu.    It  was  on  that  day  we  happened  upon 

the  nobleman  and  gave  him  the  road,  and  met  two- wheeled 

carts  made  of  rough  timber  and  drawn  by  bullocks  that  gave 

us  the  road.     These  wagons,  when  loaded  with  newly  cut 

bamboo,  were  picturesque  in  the  extreme.     They  have  no 

213 


1hx  Bamboo  Xanfcs, 


springs;  I  tried  one  for  a  short  distance,  and  it  nearly  jolted 
the  life  out  of  me. 

A  feature  of  Japanese  journeys  by  rail  is  the  ever-present 
teapot.  At  every  important  station,  pots  of  freshly  made  tea 
are  brought  into  the  car,  whose  contents  you  are  expected  to 
buy  and  consume,  to  be  ready  for  the  next  instalment.  We 
had  no  desire  to  emulate  the  Japanese  in  tea-drinking;  but  on 
that  intolerably  hot  and  dusty  ride  it  was  strangely  refreshing. 

The  views  from  the  carriage  windows  were  magnificent; 
the  mountains  rose  in  majesty  to  the  right — the  sea  spread  out 
for  miles  to  the  left.  At  Mio-no-Matsubara  is  laid  the  scene 
of  the  "  Robe  of  Feathers,"  a  charming  tale  from  Japanese 
folklore.  Many  years  ago  a  fisherman,  landing  on  the  beach, 
found  hanging  to  a  tree  a  robe  of  feathers.  He  was  about  to 
carry  it  away,  when  a  beautiful  fairy  with  golden  tresses  and 
eyes  like  the  sky  appeared  and  claimed  it  as  her  own.  The 
fisherman  at  first  declined  to  give  up  his  costly  treasure ;  but 
without  it  she  could  not  return  to  the  moon,  where  she  was  an 
attendant  of  the  "thirty  monarchs"  who  rule  that  orb.  After 
tears  and  entreaty  on  her  part,  he  finally  consented — on  condi- 
tion that  she  should  dance  for  him  one  of  the  dances  of  the  im- 
mortals. Decked  in  her  light,  airy  garment,  she  danced  on 
the  sunlit  beach,  while  ethereal  notes  and  elysian  sweets  per- 
fumed the  air.  Then  the  breezes  caught  her  wings  and  she 
mounted  upward,  like  a  spirit  "who  from  heaven  hath  flown," 
and  was  lost  to  sight. 

We  passed  through  Shizuoka,  where  the  ex-Shogun  Reiki, 

the  last  representative  of  that  "  peculiar  system"  of  govern- 

214 


ment  founded  by  Yoritomo  in  1192,  lives  in  retirement  as  a 
private  gentleman.  It  would  have  been  a  satisfaction  to  have 
met  him,  but  his  seclusion  is  inviolable. 

The  great  bridge  that  spans  the  Kanaya  River  is  an  iron 
structure  fully  a  mile  in  length.  As  our  train  passed  over  we 
saw  nothing  but  sky  and  a  waste  of  sand  and  boulders,  and 
wondered  what  all  the  fuss  was  about.  When  half-way  across 
we  discovered  a  narrow,  neglected-looking  stream  flowing 
quietly  between  desert  banks.  But  this  river  has  a  habit  of 
getting  out  of  its  little  bed.  The  greater  portion  of  the  island 
is  covered  by  mountains ;  and,  owing  to  the  narrowness  of  the 
land,  most  Japanese  streams  are  torrents  rather  than  rivers. 
When  the  snow  melts  in  the  mountains  or  after  thunder- 
storms, by  which  the  country  is  often  visited,  these  streams 
bring  down  enormous  volumes  of  water,  and  become  raging 
floods  that  crowd  their  way  to  the  sea,  sweeping  away  bridges 
and  dikes  and  overflowing  the  plains. 

I  once  knew  a  fisherman  on  the  River  St.  Lawrence  who 
would  lie  idry  in  his  boat,  with  a  bell  attached  to  his  rod,  and 
wait  for  the  fish  to  notify  him  when  caught.  He  told  me  that 
the  device  was  original — and  undoubtedly  it  was ;  but  on  the 
lagoon  at  Hamamatsu  the  fishermen  have  for  ages  fastened 
bells  on  their  nets  to  indicate  the  presence  of  fish,  showing 
that  in  widely  distant  lands  similar  conditions  lead  to  similar 
inventions  and  habits. 

We  became  so  interested  in  watching  our  favorite  pastime 

that  we  missed  our  train  and  were  forced  to  spend  the  night 

at  a  native  hotel.    No  one  who  has  ever  stayed  at  a  Japanese 

217 


1fn  Bamboo  Xanfcs. 


inn  is  likely  to  forget  the  experience — they  are  all  alike  and 
all  equally  uncomfortable ;  but  a  lovely  sail  on  the  lagoon 
that  evening  was  compensation  for  all  hardship. 

A  rice-producing  province  extends  for  a  hundred  miles 
along  the  coast.  The  fields  cover  the  lowlands  and  run  up  the 
terraced  hillsides  among  clumps  of  bamboo  and  dark  masses 
of  forest.  The  whole  country  was  yellow  with  ripening  grain 
about  to  be  harvested,  and  myriads  of  birds  or  "  white 
waders"  flew  from  field  to  field  or  stalked  about  in  the  mire. 
The  infinite  network  of  rice -field  paths — low  grass-tufted 
ridges — divides  the  spaces  into  all  sizes  and  shapes,  a  quarter 
of  an  acre  being  the  ordinary  size.  The  water  for  irrigating 
the  "paddy  fields,"  as  they  are  called,  is  raised  into  ditches  by 
means  of  a  roughly  constructed  portable  paddle-wheel  turned 
by  treading,  and  is  then  skilfully  led  on  from  field  to  field. 
The  plough,  a  long-toothed  instrument  that  turns  up  a  three- 
foot  furrow,  is  drawn  by  a  horse  that  is  guided  by  a  rod  of 
bamboo  attached  to  his  nose.  The  seed  is  soaked  until  nearly 
ready  to  sprout,  and  then  sown  thickly  in  small  fields  or  nur- 
series that  are  flooded  each  night  and  drawn  off  during  the 
day.  When  the  plants  are  three  inches  high  they  are  taken 
up  in  tufts  of  four,  and  transplanted  at  distances  of  a  foot 
apart,  where  they  grow  in  water  until  ready  to  harvest,  when 
the  fields  are  drained  off. 

Rice  culture  must  be  a  very  disagreeable  occupation,  as  the 

weeding  is  done  by  people  wading  knee-deep  in  mud  and 

water.    Women  perform  much  of  the  outdoor  work,  and  we 

noticed  them  toiling  in  the  rice-swamps  with  infants  strapped 

218 


to  their  backs,  who  were  being  shaken  about  unmercifully  and 
who  slept  through  it  all. 

It  is  a  mistaken  idea  that  rice  is  the  staple  article  of  food 
in  Japan.  It  is  cultivated  very  generally  by  the  peasants  and 
sold  to  the  townspeople ;  for,  with  the  former,  rice  is  a  luxury 
to  be  used  only  on  holidays  or  in  case  of  sickness.  Millet,  a . 
little  barley  or  wheat,  dried  fish,  and  seaweed  constitute  the 
principal  articles  of  diet,  supplemented  by  the  pestilential 
daikon.  How  they  can  eat  the  latter  is  a  mystery  still  un- 
solved. An  acre  of  land  yields  about  forty  bushels  of  rice, 
and  a  nobleman's  wealth  is  estimated  by  the  number  of  kokus 
(five  bushels)  his  estates  produce.  Prosperity  is  reckoned  by 
the  rice  crop,  and  there  are  frequently  serious  failures. 

We  reached  Nagoya  that  evening  and  found  a  public  house 
recommended  as  "  foreign" — a  building  of  Japanese  architec- 
ture enclosed  by  a  wooden  fence  that  reached  to  the  second 
story.  The  exterior  was  unattractive ;  but,  admitted  past  the 
gate,  we  rode  into  a  neat  courtyard  with  a  garden  in  the  rear. 
The  hotel  was  not  barbarian  enough  to  tolerate  boots ;  and,  at 
the  top  of  the  steep  staircase,  we  stood  in  stocking  feet  while 
the  landlord  examined  the  passports — the  natives  show  so 
little  regard  for  the  hosiery  and  health  of  tourists.  As  the 
dividing  walls  did  not  reach  the  ceiling,  the  whole  house  inter- 
communicated ;  the  slightest  noise  could  be  heard  to  the  re- 
motest corner,  and  attendants  must  be  summoned  not  by  ring- 
ing a  bell — there  were  none — but  by  clapping  the  hands.  The 
dining-room  overlooked  the  garden,  and  was  supplied  with  a 
row  of  tables,  each  of  which  could  be  enclosed  in  a  separate 

221 


1Tn  bamboo  Xanfcs, 


room  by  drawing  the  sliding  screens.  This  was  done  with  a 
great  rattle  the  instant  a  second  party  entered.  No  table  d'hote 
or  bill  of  fare  greeted  us — guests  were  expected  to  order  their 
own  meals,  after  untold  trials  in  finding  out  the  contents  of 
the  larder.  The  limited  variety  of  food,  however,  was  well 
cooked,  and  we  rang  the  changes  on  chickens,  ham,  eggs,  toast, 
and  the  indispensable  tea. 

Before  retiring  we  strolled  through  the  principal  thorough- 
fare thronged  with  people  enjoying  the  moonlight.  It  was  a 
warm  evening ;  the  moon  was  full,  and  not  a  cloud  obscured 
her  light  or  that  of  the  countless  stars  which  bore  her  com- 
pany. The  shops  were  opened  wide  for  business  and  the 
sidewalks  lined  with  booths  for  refreshments,  where  the  cook- 
ing was  going  on  in  full  sight  and  greasy  odors  filled  the  air. 
The  paper  lantern  shops  were  conspicuous.  The  usual  shape 
of  the  article  is  oblong ;  they  are  of  all  sizes,  frequently  twelve 
feet  in  length,  and  ornamented  with  every  color  and  design 
that  fancy  can  suggest.  No  festival  is  complete  without  them. 
We  visited  a  bazaar  where  everything  engaged  the  attention, 
but  the  heat  and  the  crowd  drove  us  out,  and  we  returned  to 
the  hotel  to  make  plans  for  the  morrow  and  to  dispatch  our 
passports  and  "  letters"  to  the  prefectural  office  for  a  permit 
to  visit  the  "Castle."  European  beds  and  bedclothes  were  a 
luxury  after  a  night  among  the  coverlets  and  centipedes ;  but 
mosquitoes  were  too  numerous  for  our  entire  comfort.  Those 
little  pests  here  have  the  same  accomplishments  as  musicians 
and  leeches  that  they  possess  in  other  climes.    They  sang 

sprightly  war-songs  during  their  nimble  repast,  and  the  next 

222 


SIFTING  RICE. 


morning  I  discovered  that  the  tastefully  arranged  drapery  of 
my  couch  was  a  netting. 

There  was  some  delay  in  getting  our  permit,  as  the  prem- 
ises were  closed  for  repairs,  made  necessary  by  the  terrible 
earthquake  of  1891. 

The  historic  castle  of  Nagoya  was  an  important  stronghold 
during  the  time  Japan  was  a  feudal  empire.  Erected  in  16 10 
as  a  residence  for  the  son  of  Ieyasu,  it  has  in  later  years  been 
turned  over  to  the  military  department,  and  the  great  space 
between  the  inner  and  outer  moat  is  used  for  barracks  and 
parade-grounds.  We  rode  across  the  enclosure,  where  ten 
thousand  troops  were  encamped.  Could  anything  be  more  in- 
consistent than  a  regiment  in  European  uniform  executing 
European  manoeuvres  before  a  shrine?  The  talisman  was  the 
Car  of  Hachiman,  worshipped  as  the  god  of  war.  This  was  a 
platform  covered  by  a  canopy  that  held  numbers  of  colossal 
swords  and  a  great  mirror — an  emblem  of  Shintoism.  (It  is 
an  important  fact  that  modern  German  tactics  and  an  educa- 
tion in  the  exact  sciences  do  not  remove  the  belief  in  omens, 
charms,  and  signs  from  the  minds  of  these  people.  The  proof 
can  be  found  in  this  great  castle  of  Nagoya,  where  the  upper 
story  is  filled  with  small  wooden  slabs  that  are  furnished  by  the 
priests  to  protect  it  against  fire  and  other  perils. )  The  place  pre- 
sented a  most  warlike  appearance,  and  we  asked  in  vain  what 
meant  all  this  preparation — what  campaign  they  were  meditat- 
ing— with  whom  they  were  going  to  war — questions  which 
have  since  been  answered.  The  little  country  which  has  sud- 
denly become  so  formidable  felt  that  it  must  tell  its  greatness. 
J5  225 


In  Bamboo  Xanfcs, 


It  is  not  surprising  the  Japanese  make  efficient  soldiers 
when  it  is  remembered  that  they  are  a  race  of  warriors  bred  to 
arms;  their  religion  teaches  them  to  place  no  value  on  life, 
and  their  emperor  commands  them  to  die  by  their  own  swords 
rather  than  fall  into  the  enemy's  hands.  The  soldier's  duty  is 
to  fight,  and  to  fight  to  the  death,  giving  and  taking  no  quar- 
ter. It  is  the  old  Samurai  spirit  which  still  lives  on.  Japan 
has  a  standing  army  of  three  hundred  thousand  men.  The 
policy  of  the  government  is  to  learn  of  Europeans  and  then 
dispense  with  their  services,  and  there  is  now  not  a  single 
foreigner  connected  with  the  army  or  navy  in  any  capacity 
whatever.  The  Japanese  have  a  special  talent  for  learning 
Western  methods  and  incredible  courage  in  using  their  knowl- 
edge, and  the  wisest  cannot  foresee  to  what  degree  it  will 
develop. 

We  left  the  great  Hachiman  and  his  still  greater  retinue  at 
their  exercises  and  crossed  the  bridge  over  the  inner  moat, 
dry  and  the  home  of  tame  deer,  to  the  "apartments,"  which, 
with  the  castle,  are  preserved  as  show-places.  The  rooms  are 
denuded  of  mats,  but  the  alcoves  and  panels  are  richly  deco- 
rated with  paintings  of  flowers  and  birds  by  artists  of  the  fa- 
mous Kano  school.  In  one  of  the  first  rooms  are  some  sketches 
of  cherry-blossoms  and  pheasants;  in  another  scenes  from 
daily  life  are  depicted ;  and  the  finest  of  all — that  reserved  for 
the  Shogun — has  gorgeous  paintings  of  ideal  Chinese  scenery. 

The  castle,  or  "keep,"  is  a  stone  pagoda  of  five  stories; 

from  the  upper  platform,  reached  by  wooden  stairs,  the  view  is 

far-reaching.     The  roof  is  surmounted  by  two  golden  dol- 

226 


GOLDEN  DOLPHIN. 


phins,  eight  feet  high  and  valued  at  one  hundred  and  eighty 
thousand  dollars.  They  can  be  seen  as  glittering  points  from 
every  part  of  the  city.  The  one  sent  to  the  Vienna  expo- 
sition of  1873  was  shipwrecked,  but  finally  recovered  and 
placed  in  its  former  position.  The  exterior  of  the  castle  was 
marred  by  scaffolding  and  the  interior  blocked  by  workmen 
engaged  in  its  restoration,  but,  notwithstanding,  our  visit  was 
most  satisfactory. 

By  a  magnificent  two-storied  gateway  we  entered  the  great 
courtyard,  in  the  centre  of  which  rises  the  temple  of  Higashi 
Hongwanji.  A  fine  colonnade  surrounds  the  exterior.  The 
spacious  interior  is  divided  into  compartments — the  outer  for 
observers,  the  centre  for  the  congregation,  and  the  inner  for 
the  altar,  on  which  stands  the  handsome  gilt  shrine,  containing 
an  image  of  Amida,  a  powerful  deity  who  dwells  in  the  West. 
The  walls  and  ceiling  are  very  rich  in  ornamentation  and  each 
detail  is  a  work  of  art.  A  stone  with  the  imprint  of  Buddha's 
huge  feet  was  noticed ;  but,  as  his  height  is  said  to  have  been 
sixteen  feet,  they  are  not  out  of  proportion,  as  is  not  that 
tooth  of  his  in  the  temple  in  Kandy. 

In  a  certain  gallery  we  saw  the  Go  Hyaku  Rakan,  five  hun- 
dred images  of  Buddha's  chief  followers.  They  are  two  feet 
in  height,  painted  in  bright  colors,  and  no  two  are  alike.  On 
their  faces  are  depicted  every  emotion,  from  grave  to  gay; 
and  their  shapes  and  attitudes  express  every  gradation,  from 
the  sublime  to  the  ridiculous.  The  place  gives  you  the  im- 
pression of  a  wilderness  of  diminutive   howling  dervishes. 

Tradition  states  that  by  careful  search  you  can  find  among 

229 


1Tn  JSamboo  Xanfcs* 


them  the  image  of  your  own  father ;  but  even  with  the  new 
philosophy  of  evolution  in  mind,  it  would  shock  one  to  recog- 
nize an  ancestor  in  that  hideous  group.  On  entering  one  finds 
himself  under  a  singular  illusion:  the  apostles'  faces  are 
turned  toward  the  observer  and  the  eyes  seem  to  say :  "  Do 
you  recognize  me?"  We  tarried  not  to  discover,  but  hastened 
away  from  the  rare  good  things  so  lavishly  provided  for  our 
entertainment. 

The  potteries  and  the  shops  in  which  rare  cloisonne  enam- 
els are  made  are  numerous  and  attractive,  and  in  them  we  saw 
specimens  that  were  as  fine  as  Japan  produced  in  the  seven- 
teenth and  eighteenth  centuries — its  golden  age  of  art. 

At  noon  the  next  day  we  were  in  Gifu,  which  suffered  so 
terribly  by  the  memorable  earthquake  of  1891,  as  did  the  en- 
tire coast  as  far  as  Nagoya.  It  was  estimated  that  in  Gifu 
alone  ten  thousand  people  lost  their  lives  and  that  twenty 
thousand  more  were  rendered  homeless  and  destitute.  Our 
English-speaking  guide  gave  us  a  vivid  description  of  the 
scenes  of  horror  during  the  cataclysm :  the  earth  burst  open  in 
great  fissures,  and  the  frail  houses  of  bamboo  were  crushed  by 
the  heavy  tiled  roofs  before  the  inhabitants  had  time  to  es- 
cape. When  we  reached  the  scene  the  ruined  homes  still  lay 
in  hopeless  confusion,  sad  witnesses  of  its  violence;  and  the 
unfortunate  citizens  were  as  actively  engaged  in  rebuilding  as 
if  they  never  expected  a  recurrence  of  the  disaster.  The  earth- 
quake is  no  stranger  to  the  dwellers  in  that  part  of  the  world. 
Unfortunately  Japan  is  specially  subject  to  convulsions  of  na- 
ture, and  it  is  the  one  thing  that  mars  the  enjoyment  of  a  stay 

230 


there.  The  suffocating-  stillness  of  the  atmosphere — the  dull, 
rumbling-  roar — the  very  ground  undulating  beneath  one's  feet 
— are  enough  to  disturb  the  mental  equilibrium  of  a  stoic. 
One  can  endure  the  slight  shocks  with  tolerable  composure, 
but  I  have  passed  through  several  in  different  parts  of  the 
world  that  have  made  me  think  the  end  of  all  things  had  come. 
A  traveller  in  Japan  who  has  any  curiosity  to  feel  an  earth- 
quake can  be  sure  of  having  it  gratified  at  any  moment,  and 
may  be  thankful  if  he  escapes  without  an  accident.  The  na- 
tives have  a  superstition  that  they  are  caused  by  the  throes  of 
a  great  subterranean  fish ;  but,  whatever  be  the  cause,  they  are 
not  companionable.  Geologists  believe  that  much  of  Japan 
has  been  elevated  above  the  ocean  by  seismic  disturbances, 
and  the  country  has  paid  dearly  for  additional  territory  by  the 
sacrifice  of  hundreds  of  thousands  of  lives.  We  went  to  Gifu 
to  view  the  ruins  and  remained  to  see  the  strange  method  of 
fishing  with  cormorants  on  the  River  Nagara.  We  secured 
boats  and  followed  the  procession. 

"  First  catch  your  cormorant.  .  .  .  This  the  people  do  by 
placing  wooden  images  of  the  birds  in  spots  frequented  by 
them,  and  covering  the  surrounding  branches  and  twigs  with 
birdlime,  on  settling  upon  which  they  stick  fast.  After  having 
in  this  manner  caught  one  cormorant,  they  place  it  among  the 
bushes  instead  of  the  image,  and  thus  catch  more.  .  .  .  The 
fishermen  take  such  care  of  the  birds  that  they  provide  them 
with  mosquito  nets  during  the  summer  in  order  to  minister  to 
their  comfort.  Cormorant-fishing  always  takes  place  at  night 
and  by  torchlight."    A  letter  written  by  Major-General  Pal- 

233 


1fn  Bamboo  Xanfcs. 


mer  and  published  in  the  London  Times  thus  describes  the 
method  pursued : 

"  There  are,  to  begin  with,  four  men  in  each  of  the  seven 
boats,  one  of  whom,  at  the  stern,  has  no  duty  but  that  of 
managing  his  craft.  In  the  bow  stands  the  master,  distin- 
guished by  the  peculiar  hat  of  his  rank,  and  handling  no 
fewer  than  twelve  trained  birds  with  the  surpassing  skill  and 
coolness  that  have  earned  for  the  sportsmen  of  Gifu  their  un- 
rivalled pre-eminence.  Amidships  is  another  fisher,  of  the  sec- 
ond grade,  who  handles  four  birds  only.  Between  them  is 
the  fourth  man,  called  kako,  from  the  bamboo  striking-instru- 
ment of  that  name,  with  which  he  makes  the  clatter  necessary 
for  keeping  the  birds  up  to  their  work ;  he  also  encourages 
them  by  shouts  and  cries,  looks  after  spare  apparatus,  etc., 
and  is  ready  to  give  aid  if  required.  Each  cormorant  wears  at 
the  base  of  its  neck  a  metal  ring,  drawn  tight  enough  to  pre- 
vent marketable  fish  from  passing  below  it,  but  at  the  same 
time  loose  enough — for  it  is  never  removed — to  admit  the 
smaller  prey,  which  serves  as  food.  Round  the  body  is  a  cord, 
having  attached  to  it  at  the  middle  of  the  back  a  short  strip  of 
stiffish  whalebone,  by  which  the  great  awkward  bird  may  be 
conveniently  lowered  into  the  water  or  lifted  out  when  at 
work ;  and  to  this  whalebone  is  looped  a  thin  rein  of  spruce 
fibre  twelve  feet  long,  and  so  far  wanting  in  pliancy  as  to  min- 
imize the  chance  of  entanglement.  When  the  fishing-ground 
is  reached,  the  master  lowers  the  twelve  birds  one  by  one  into 
the  stream  and  gathers  their  reins  into  his  left  hand,  manipu- 
lating the  latter  thereafter  with  his  right  as  occasion  requires. 

234 


No.  2  does  the  same  with  his  four  birds ;  the  kako  starts  in 
with  his  volleys  of  noise ;  and  forthwith  the  cormorants  set  to 
at  their  work  in  the  heartiest  and  jolliest  way,  diving  and 
ducking-  with  wonderful  swiftness  as  the  astonished  fish  come 
flocking  toward  the  blaze  of  light.  The  master  is  now  the 
busiest  of  men.  He  must  handle  his  twelve  strings  so  deftly 
that,  let  the  birds  dash  hither  and  thither  as  they  will,  there 
shall  be  no  impediment  or  fouling.  He  must  have  his  eyes 
everywhere  and  his  hands  following  his  eyes.  Specially  must 
he  watch  for  the  moment  when  any  of  his  flock  is  gorged,  a 
fact  generally  made  known  by  the  bird  itself,  which  then 
swims  about  in  a  foolish,  helpless  way,  with  its  head  and 
swollen  neck  erect.  Thereupon  the  master,  shortening  in  on 
that  bird,  lifts  it  aboard,  forces  its  bill  open  with  his  left  hand, 
which  still  holds  the  rest  of  the  lines,  squeezes  out  the  fish 
with  his  right  and  starts  the  creature  off  on  a  fresh  foray — all 
this  with  such  admirable  dexterity  and  quickness  that  the 
eleven  birds  still  bustling  about  have  scarce  time  to  get  things 
into  a  tangle,  and  in  another  moment  the  whole  team  is  again 
perfectly  in  hand. 

"As  for  the  cormorants,  they  are  trained  when  quite 
young,  being  caught  in  winter  with  birdlime  on  the  coasts  of 
the  neighboring  Owari  Gulf  at  their  first  emigration  southward 
from  the  summer  haunts  of  the  species  on  the  northern  sea- 
board of  Japan.  Once  trained,  they  work  well  up  to  fifteen, 
often  up  to  nineteen  or  twenty  years  of  age ;  and,  though  their 
keep  in  winter  bears  hardly  on  the  masters,  they  are  very 
precious  and  profitable  hunters  during  the  five  months'  season 

235 


1Fn  Bamboo  3Lant>s» 


and  well  deserve  the  great  care  that  is  lavished  upon  them. 
From  four  to  eight  good-sized  fish,  for  example,  is  the  fair  re- 
sult of  a  single  excursion  for  one  bird,  which  corresponds  to 
an  average  of  about  one  hundred  and  fifty  fish  per  cormorant 
per  hour,  or  about  four  hundred  and  fifty  for  the  three  hours 
occupied  in  drifting  down  the  whole  course.  Every  bird  in  a 
flock  has  and  knows  its  number ;  and  one  of  the  funniest  things 
about  them  is  the  quick-witted  jealousy  with  which  they  in- 
variably insist,  by  all  that  cormorant  language  and  panto- 
mimic protest  can  do,  on  due  observance  of  the  recognized 
rights  belonging  to  their  individual  numbers.  No.  i,  or 
"Ichi,"  is  the  doyen  of  the  corps,  the  senior  in  years  as  well 
as  rank.  His  colleagues,  according  to  their  ages,  come  after 
him  in  numerical  order.  Ichi  is  the  last  to  be  put  into  the 
water  and  the  first  to  be  taken  out,  the  first  to  be  fed,  and  the 
last  to  enter  the  baskets  in  which,  when  work  is  over,  the 
birds  are  carried  from  the  boats  to  their  domicile.  Ichi,  when 
aboard,  has  the  post  of  honor  at  the  eyes  of  the  boat.  He  is  a 
solemn,  grizzled  old  fellow,  with  a  pompous,  noli-me-tangere 
air,  that  is  almost  worthy  of  a  lord  mayor.  The  rest  have 
place  after  him,  in  succession  of  rank,  alternately  on  either 
side  of  the  gunwale.  If,  haply,  the  lawful  order  of  prece- 
dence be  at ,  any  time  violated — if,  for  instance,  No.  5  be  put 
into  the  water  before  No.  6,  or  No.  4  be  placed  above  No.  2, 
the  rumpus  that  forthwith  arises  in  that  family  is  a  sight  to 
see  and  a  sound  to  hear. 

"  But  all  this  while  we  have  been  drifting  down  with  the 

boats  about  us,  to  the  lower  end  of  the  course,  and  are  again 

236 


XTbe  XTofeatoo. 

abreast  of  Gifu,  where  the  whole  squadron  is  beached.  As 
each  cormorant  is  taken  out  of  the  water  the  master  can  tell 
by  its  weight  whether  it  has  secured  enough  supper  while  en- 
gaged in  the  hunt ;  failing  which,  he  makes  the  deficiency  good 
by  feeding  it  with  the  inferior  fish  of  the  catch.  At  length  all 
are  ranged  in  their  due  order,  facing  outward,  on  the  gunwale 
of  each  boat.  And  the  sight  of  that  array  of  great  ungainly 
seabirds — shaking  themselves,  flapping  their  wings,  gawing, 
making  their  toilets,  clearing  their  throats,  looking  about  them 
with  a  stare  of  stupid  solemnity,  and  now  and  then  indulging 
in  old-maidish  tiffs  with  their  neighbors — is  quite  the  strangest 
of  its  little  class  I  have  ever  seen,  except  perhaps  the  wonder- 
ful penguinry  of  the  Falkland  Islands,  whereat  a  certain 
French  philosopher  is  said  to  have  even  wept.  Finally,  the 
cormorants  are  sent  off  to  bed" — we  followed  suit. 

237 


CHAPTER  VI. 


KYOTO. 

Kyoto  is  one  of  the  most  ancient  cities  in  the  kingdom  and 
has  been  the  capital  of  the  Mikado  for  a  period  of  one  thou- 
sand years,  ending  in  1868. 

Saikyo,  its  new  name,  little  known  to  foreigners,  has  a  vast 
collection  of  groves,  gardens,  temples,  palaces,  pagodas, 
shrines,  and  works  of  art,  such  as  cannot  be  seen  elsewhere  in 
Japan.  The  city,  which  has  greatly  shrunken  in  modern 
times,  lies  on  a  plain  encircled  by  broken  ranges  of  mountains, 
densely  wooded,  and  the  whole  country  is  clothed  in  luxuriant 
vegetation. 

In  order  to  fully  appreciate  and  enjoy  the  show  places  of 
Kyoto  and  all  that  in  it  is  spread  out  for  one's  pleasure,  one 
must  be  familiar  with  the  history,  the  religion,  and  the  art  of 
Japan.  The  city  is  famed  for  its  brocades  and  embroidery, 
its  lacquered  ware,  cloisonne,  porcelain,  and  weapons;  it 
contains  twenty-five  hundred  Shinto  shrines  and  thirty-five 
hundred  Buddhist  temples ;  and  every  man  who  was  great  in 
the  annals  of  his  country  has  left  his  mark  there. 

Our  train  reached  the  railway  station  at  night.  The  pro- 
cession of  twenty  kurumas  with  passengers  and  baggage  made 

a  great  clatter  as  we  rode  through  the  dark  streets,  two  miles, 

238 


to  the  hotel.  No  light  appeared  through  chinks  of  sliding 
screens ;  not  a  voice,  not  a  footstep  was  heard ;  not  a  living 
soul  was  to  be  seen,  and  up  above — far  above — shone  the  si- 
lent, eternal  stars.  We  wondered  what  the  awakened  sleepers 
thought  about  us  and  how  they  expressed  their  displeasure 
under  the  circumstances. 

The  Yaami  hotel — in  foreign  style  but  managed  by  Japa- 
nese— is  situated  on  the  hillside  of  Maruyama  and  overlooks  the 
city  and  its  environs.  The  house  is  peculiarly  constructed,  in 
three  distinct  parts,  joined  by  open  galleries,  and  the  effect  is 
pleasing.  It  has  broad  piazzas  and  comfortable  steamer-chairs, 
and  the  views  are  well  worth  travelling  to  Japan  for.  The 
garden  is  charming ;  a  brook  tumbles  over  rockeries  in  tiny 
cascades,  the  pools  are  filled  with  goldfish,  hedges  outline  the 
paths,  and  a  soft  carpet  of  grass  covers  the  lawn.  In  the 
midst  of  all  stand  cherry  and  plum  trees,  dwarf  pines,  a  gray 
and  mossy  stone  shrine,  and  a  temple  lantern.  Snails  make 
their  homes  on  the  smooth  rocks  wet  with  constant  spray,  and 
we  disposed  of  many  a  leisure  moment  in  searching  for  left- 
handed  specimens. 

In  this  delightful  abode  we  established  ourselves  for  a  stay 
of  some  weeks.  Our  large,  well-furnished  rooms  opened  on  a 
veranda — all  our  own — that  commanded  a  magnificent  view 
toward  the  west ;  and  there,  in  the  late  afternoon,  we  reclined 
in  comfort  to  observe  the  sunset  and  watch  the  evening  shad- 
ows wrap  the  mountains  in  their  soft  embrace.  The  displays 
were  magnificent.  Violet,  green,  orange,  and  gold  streaked 
the  sky  into  a  perfect  kaleidoscope  of  ever-changing  colors 

239 


ITn  JSamboo  Xante* 


fading  slowly  into  the  quiet  grays  of  twilight;  and  far  off, 
toward  the  horizon,  distant  ranges  showed  faintly  in  the  glow- 
ing blue.  We  would  indulge  in  fanciful  reveries  or  talk  on  in 
the  sweet  autumn  darkness  until  the  stars  twinkled  out  over- 
head and  the  soft  tinkle  of  the  samisen  floated  upward  from 
the  tea-houses  on  the  avenue — hours  that  dwell  in  my  mind 
as  a  blissful  memory,  and  I  look  wistfully  toward  Maruyama, 
with  a  thousand  tender  associations. 

There  were  so  many  good  things  to  see  in  Kyoto,  we  felt 
we  should  be  up  and  about  our  sight-seeing.  The  guide-book 
suggested  the  Mikado's  palace;  but  we  must  show  proper  re- 
spect to  our  hillside  neighbor,  and  selected  the  temple  of 
Chion-in  for  our  first  day's  pleasure.  This  temple  of  the  J  odd 
sect  of  Buddhists  is  approached  by  a  broad  avenue  lined  with 
enormous  old  cherry-trees,  whose  blossoms  have  drawn  wor- 
shipping crowds  for  three  centuries.  At  the  summit  stands  the 
great  gateway,  a  large,  two-storied  structure  eighty  feet  in 
height,  which  we  entered  Again  we  removed  our  shoes. 
Leaving  them  in  charge  of  women  who  pick  up  a  little  "  cash" 
by  this  means,  we  climbed  a  ladder  to  the  upper  room  occu- 
pied by  images  of  the  gods.  Buddha  in  meditation,  with  half- 
closed  eyelids,  is  seated  between  two  other  deities  and  attended 
by  sixteen  life-sized  figures  of  his  disciples  in  fanciful  cos- 
tumes. 

The  glorious  views  from  the  outer  gallery  were  worth  the 

climb,  but  the  descent  was   both   perilous   and  ludicrous. 

Dangling  between  earth  and  heaven  we  laughed  immoderately, 

while  the  Buddhas  who  sat  in  state  above,  and  the  women  who 

240 


held  our  boots  below,  looked  on  in  evident  disapproval  of  for- 
eign levity.  By  two  long  nights  of  steps  we  reached  the  paved 
courtyard,  in  the  centre  of  which  stands  the  great  temple,  sur- 
mounted by  an  enormous  roof.  Legend  states  that  ages  ago 
an  umbrella  flew  from  the  hands  of  a  small  boy  and  lodged 
under  the  eaves,  and  that  Inari,  the  patron  deity  of  this  mon- 
astery, promptly  declared  both  the  boy  and  the  article  sacred. 
The  former  has  disappeared,  but  the  latter,  tattered  and  faded, 
we  discovered  after  per- 
sistent search.  The  shrine 
of  Enko  Daishi,  to  whom 
the  temple  is  dedicated, 
rests  on  a  platform  sur- 
mounted by  four  gilt  pil- 
lars, before  which  stand 
great  bunches  of  lotus- 
flowers  and  leaves  of  brass 
in   bronze  vases.    A   fea-  waking  up  the  gods. 

ture  of  the  temple  is  the  oval-shaped,  scarlet-lacquered 
mokugyo  (bells)  disposed  on  the  matting  before  the  altar. 
The  priests  with  shaven  heads  chant  without  ceasing,  "  Namu 
myohorengekyo,"  squatted  before  these  bells,  on  which  they 
pound  to  wake  up  the  gods.  The  interior  was  very  effective, 
and  entirely  unlike  any  other  we  had  seen. 

We  were  shown  through  the  palace  of  the  Shogun  Iemitsu 
in  the  same  grounds;  the  doors,  sliding  screens,  and  panels 
are  exquisite.  In  this  building  are  the  famous  whistling 
boards,  which,  as  we  stepped  upon  them,  emitted  low,  un- 

243 


1ht  bamboo  Xanfcs, 


earthly  sounds.  In  the  high  woods  near  the  palace  is  the  bel- 
fry that  contains  the  great  bronze  bell  cast  in  1633;  it  weighs 
seventy-four  tons  and  is  rung  like  the  one  at  Nikko.  The 
grand  old  temple  had  laid  its  charm  upon  us,  and  we  returned 
again  and  again  to  wander  in  and  out  among  its  shrines  and 
groves  and  derive  new  pleasure  from  each  visit. 

By  a  lovely  path  through  the  woods  we  returned  to  our 
hotel  and  entered  by  a  rear  door.  We  found  ourselves  in  the 
cooking-department,  a  large  low  room  with  floor  of  earth,  and 
furnished  with  rows  of  small  fireplaces  and  charcoal  braziers, 
utensils  of  primitive  make  in  fine  bronze  and  iron,  and  an 
array  of  lacquered  plates  and  trays.  The  room  was  neatness 
itself.  As  it  was  the  hour  for  afternoon  tea,  a  score  of  "boys" 
were  busy  in  its  preparation,  and  we  hastened  to  our  charming 
piazza  and  restful  chairs  to  enjoy  it.  The  suburb  in  which  the 
hotel  is  situated  is  occupied  by  tea-houses,  where  seekers  of 
pleasure  resort  for  dining,  drinking,  music,  and  dancing. 
Primitive  customs  still  prevail,  but  slightly  altered  by  Euro- 
pean innovations.  At  night  lights  twinkle  from  every  little 
inn,  and  we  could  watch  the  guests  and  the  geishas  who  are 
let  out  in  groups  to  entertain  natives  at  their  feasts,  and  are 
considered  such  an  important  item  that  a  dinner  would  be  a 
complete  failure  without  their  services.  It  was  a  rare  oppor- 
tunity to  see  the  people  unseen  by  them.  The  first  night  I 
scarcely  closed  my  eyes,  the  beating  of  Buddhist  drums  at 
Chion-in  outrivalling  the  noise  and  discords  of  the  tea-houses ; 
it  was  too  much,  but  we  soon  became  accustomed  to  both  and 

rather  enjoyed  the  absurd  combination. 

244 


1k£OtO, 


A  large  amount  of  the  porcelain  produced  in  Japan  is  made 
in  the  suburb  of  Awata,  which  gives  its  name  to  this  well- 
known  ware.  We  visited  a  number  of  these  potteries.  Alight- 
ing before  a  dingy  wooden  building,  the  door  was  quickly 
opened  by  a  servitor  who  ushered  us  into  a  showroom  whose 
cabinets  were  filled  with  beautiful  porcelain,  cloisonne,  dama- 
scene, and  lacquer.  Each  piece  was  a  work  of  art  in  fineness 
of  finish,  subdued  coloring,  and  delicate  ornamentation.  The 
Japanese  are  born  with  a  love  of  beauty  and  instinctive  good 
taste,  as  is  evinced  by  all  wares  manufactured  for  their  own 
use ;  but,  as  they  have  quickly  discovered  what  sells  best  in 
Europe  and  America,  they  now  produce  great  quantities  of 
cheap  articles  loaded  with  coarse  decoration  for  foreign  trade. 
We  were  taken  into  the  packing-room,  which  was  crowded  with 
specimens  of  the  gaudy  red  and  gold  vases  that  one  sees  in 
every  china  store  from  London  to  San  Francisco.  The  pro- 
prietor took  occasion  to  remark,  as  he  pointed  to  his  wares, 
"Japanese  no  like."    It  was  cruel. 

We  walked  through  the  garden  to  the  factory.  The  article 
is  first  moulded  and  dried  by  fire,  then  glazed  and  fired,  then 
decorated  and  fired  again.  The  whole  process  is  to  be  seen, 
from  the  kneading  of  the  clay  to  the  painting  and  firing,  all 
done  by  hand-labor  and  with  the  crudest  of  tools.  The  finest 
pieces,  not  intended  for  "savages,"  are  often  fired  many  times 
according  to  the  perfection  of  finish  desired.  The  best  deco- 
rators inherit  much  of  their  skill  from  generations  of  artists. 
Ceramic  art  in  Japan  dates  from  the  year  1600  a.d.,  and  the 
celebrated  artist  Ninsei  originated  Awata  faience  in  1650. 

245 


•ffn  Bamboo  Xanfca 


The  first  half  of  the  present  century  was  the  golden  age  of 
Satsuma,  and  that  which  ranks  as  "  old  Satsuma"  is  not  so 
very  ancient  after  all. 

Kyoto  is  well  named  the  "  City  of  Temples,"  and  it  was  well 
for  us  that  it  was  also  a  city  of  shops,  or  but  a  confused  mem- 
ory of  them  would  have  remained ;  and  after  a  morning  spent 
in  the  former  we  usually  finished  the  day  in  the  latter.  Our 
old  infirmity  had  returned  in  full  force  and  never  abated  while 
we  were  in  the  fascinating  old  town. 

On  our  way  to  the  Yasaka  pagoda  we  walked  up  a  stair-like 
street  lined  with  shops  stuffed  to  their  utmost  capacity  with 
trifles  in  bronze,  porcelain,  and  bamboo,  both  pretty  and  inex- 
pensive, for  whatever  the  Japanese  fashion  it  is  always  ar- 
tistic. In  one  of  the  houses  that  cluster  about  the  pagoda 
there  was  a  lot  of  little  monkeys,  that  for  a  few  sen  we  were 
allowed  to  feed.  When  gratified  they  salaamed  with  great 
ceremony,  but  if  neglected  they  would  scold  until  the  offender 
was  out  of  sight. 

The  five-storied  pagoda  was  raised  about  the  year  1600  on 
the  site  of  a  former  one.  Except  for  a  few  paintings  of  Bud- 
dhist deities  that  adorn  its  panels,  the  interior  is  plain  and 
disappointing,  but  from  the  top  one  gets  a  bird's-eye  view  of 
the  whole  city  of  Kyoto,  with  its  mass  of  one-story  houses 
shabby  with  time,  and  all  around  a  plain  of  vivid  green  en- 
circled by  mountains.  The  steep  temple  roofs  scattered  about 
the  town  serve  as  landmarks. 

The  temple  of  the  great  Buddha  has  had  an  eventful  his- 
tory, having  been  repeatedly  destroyed  by  fire  and  earthquake. 

246 


In  1662  a  violent  shock  levelled  both  the  building-  and  its 
bronze  image  to  the  ground.  The  Shogun  Iemitsu,  being  in 
need  of  funds,  caused  the  bronze  to  be  fused  into  coins,  some 
of  which  are  in  circulation  at  this  day.  They  are  distinguished 
by  the  character  and  by  good  chance  I  secured  two.  The 
present  image  of  wood  consists  of  head  and  shoulders  only, 
but  is  so  huge  it  reaches  from  floor  to  ceiling  of  the  lofty 
temple.  The  great  gilded  head  is  hollow  and  supported  by  a 
network  of  beams;  the  temple  walls  are  hung  with  cheap 
paintings,  and  the  whole  effect  is  tawdry. 
The  interest  of  the  place  centres  in  the 
enormous  bronze  bell,  weighing  sixty- 
three  tons,  that  hangs  in  the  courtyard — 
second  in  size  only  to  that  of  Chion-in,  the 
two  being  the  largest  bells  in  Japan.  Our 
guide  was  eager  to  exhibit  the  divertisse- 
ment of  the  grounds — a  venerable  mound,  beneath  which  are 
buried  the  noses  and  ears  of  Koreans  slain  in  the  wars  of  the 
sixteenth  century  and  brought  home  by  the  soldiers  as 
trophies,  they  being  more  easily  transported  than  heads.  He 
fairly  danced  with  glee  as  he  made  an  elaborate  explanation. 

The  heights  of  Maruyama,  covered  with  thick  green  tinted 
with  orange  shades,  were  so  alluring  we  determined  to  make 
the  ascent.  It  was  a  beautiful  day,  warm  and  bright ;  and  our 
landlord  offered  for  use  as  guide  and  interpreter  a  lad  who 
proved  to  be  a  care  rather  than  a  comfort.  We  sauntered  up 
among  the  tea-houses  by  shady  paths  that  serve  as  public 

walks,  scrambled  up  the  dry  bed  of  a  torrent,  and  entered  the 

249 


1fn  Bamboo  Xanfcs. 

forest.  Suddenly  we  were  confronted  by  a  sign-board  covered 
with  Japanese  characters  and  sketches  of  a  terrifying  nature, 
evidently  a  warning  not  to  proceed.  Amazed  and  perplexed, 
we  appealed  to  our  small  guide.  He  was  speechless.  Here 
was  a  pretty  business.  In  dense  shade,  with  rocks  and  decay- 
ing logs  about  us,  we  searched  carefully,  and,  finding  nothing 
of  a  harmful  nature,  we  decided  it  must  be  a  caution  against 
snakes.  The  motive  was  not  sufficient,  however.  We  had 
seen  too  many  reptiles  of  that  genus  in  Japan  to  be  driven 
back,  and,  arming  ourselves  with  staves,  we  proceeded  on  our 
way,  stumbling  bravely  along  and  reaching  the  summit  in  a 
rather  shaky  condition.  On  the  hilltop,  shaded  by  clumps  of 
oak,  we  sat  on  a  grassy  knoll  to  rest  and  enjoy  the  magnificent 
prospect,  with  eyes  and  ears  on  the  alert  for  impending  danger. 
The  autumn  day  was  drowsy,  the  wind  was  soft  and  balmy, 
the  sun  shone  through  the  masses  of  foliage  above,  and  our 
nook  and  how  we  had  wandered  there  became  almost  lost  to 
remembrance.  Encountering  nothing  alarming  and  utterly 
mystified  as  to  the  meaning  of  that  sign,  we  reached  the  hotel 
to  exhaust  ourselves  in  query  as  to  what  the  terrors  of  the 
hill  might  be,  and  all  to  no  avail.  You  may  imagine  the  curi- 
osity which  tormented  us.  At  the  end  of  a  week  our  peace  of 
mind  was  restored  by  the  timely  call  of  an  English  gentleman 
connected  with  the  college.  We  told  him  of  our  experience, 
at  which  he  laughed  heartily,  and  revealed  to  us  the  astonish- 
ing fact  that  it  was  a  warning  to  the  public  "  not  to  gather 
mushrooms"  and  the  penalty.    We  had  looked  for  a  mountain 

and  discovered  a  mouse !    What  living  being  would  expect  to 

250 


Ikpoto. 


find  plants  of  that  species  at  that  elevation  and  under  such 
conditions?  But  the  spirit  of  topsy-turvydom,  directly  opposed 
to  onr  ideas,  has  affected  even  this  lowly  fungus. 

Here  are  a  few  Japanese  contrarieties.  They  practically 
begin  building  their  houses  at  the  top.  The  roof  is  first  con- 
structed and  set  on  four  poles ;  the  carpenter  cuts  and  planes 
toward,  instead  of  from,  himself;  the  best  rooms  are  at  the 
back  of  the  house,  and  rooms  are  made  to  fit  the  mats  instead 
of  mats  to  fit  the  rooms.  They  have  no  chimneys  to  their 
houses,  the  smoke  finding  its  way  out  at  the  doors  and  win- 
dows. They  wear  white  instead  of  black  for  mourning.  They 
carry  their  babes  on  their  backs,  not  in  their  arms.  Boats  are 
drawn  on  the  shore  stern  first,  and  horses  are  tied  in  the  stall 
with  their  heads  where  we  place  their  tails.  A  Japanese  book 
ends  where  ours  begins.  Wine  is  used  before  dinner,  not 
after,  and  sweets  are  served  as  a  first  course.  They  politely 
remove  their  shoes  as  we  do  our  hats,  and  when  a  man  is  in- 
sulted, instead  of  killing  his  enemy,  he  kills  himself. 

We  took  kurumas  to  San-ju-san-gen-do,  a  temple  that  ranks 
next  after  Nikko  and  Shiba  in  interest.  Founded  in  1132,  it 
was  rebuilt  in  1266  by  the  Emperor  Kameyama,  who  placed  in 
it  one  thousand  images  of  the  thousand-handed  Kwannon,  the 
goddess  of  mercy.  The  exterior  is  unattractive,  but  upon  en- 
tering there  are  few  sights  more  imposing  as  the  eye  glances 
over  the  confused  mass  of  glittering  deities.  In  the  centre  of 
the  great  hall,  three  hundred  and  eighty-nine  feet  in  length, 
the  huge  figure  of  Kwannon  is  seen,  seated  on  an  enormous 
lotus-flower  of  bronze,  and  ranged  about  her  are  twenty-eight 

253 


Un  JBamboo  Xante. 


of  her  followers.  The  altar  is  draped  with  damask  and  littered 
with  many  idols  and  shining  objects  that  suggest  Buddhism. 
On  either  side  of  the  throne  are  rows  of  images  of  Kwannon, 
five  feet  in  height,  cut  from  solid  blocks  of  wood  and  heavily 
gilded,  rising  tier  behind  tier;  and  on  the  halo,  hands,  and 
forehead  of  each  figure  are  thirty-three  smaller  ones.  Al- 
though these  images  represent  the  same  deity,  and  the  simi- 
larity is  great,  no  two  are  exactly  alike.  "We  noticed  a  few 
natives  prostrating  themselves  before  these  objects  of  worship, 
apparently  engaged  in  prayer,  with  one  eye  directed  toward 
the  gods  and  the  other  toward  us.  The  gallery  in  the  rear  was 
formerly  used  by  archers,  and  it  was  a  test  of  skill  to  shoot  the 
arrows  from  one  end  and  to  fix  them  firmly  in  the  opposite 
wall.  "We  saw  myriads  of  these  little  weapons  sticking  in  the 
woodwork.  The  following  description  we  obtained  from  a 
priest.     I  copy  it  verbatim: 

The  Abridgement  of  Saxjiu-Saxgexdo  ix  Kv5to.  Tap  ax. 

This  famous  temple  was  built  730  years  ago,  in  1160  a.d. 
(1820  in  the  Japanese  era,  i.e.  first  years  of  Yeireki  epoch). 
In  that  time  our  77th  emperor,  Goshirakawa  had  been  often 
afflicted  by  heavy  headache.  After  every  medical  ait  was 
tried  in  vain.  His  majesty  being  pious  in  Buddha  ordered  to 
build  this  temple,  with  thousand  statues  of  Senju- Kwannon 
(the  Buddha  of  Charity  having  thousandhands)  in  it,  to  pray 
for  the  restoration  of  sickness.  The  height  of  these  idols  is 
just  equal  to  that  of  the  Emperor  himself,  and  other  twenty- 

254 


IRpoto, 


eight  idols  which  are  placed  upon  the  steps  of  both  sides  in 
the  front  of  temple  are  the  guards  for  Kwannon  with  the 
sames,  Kongo-Mishana-buddha,  Kendatsu-ba-buddha,  etc. 
The  length  of  this  temple  is  sixty-seven  ken  (one  ken  being 
about  six  feet)  and  the  depth  is  nine  ken.  The  name  of 
Sanjiu-Sangendo,  which  implies  'the  temple  of  thirty-three 
ken,'  comes  from  that  Kwannon  vowed  himself  to  solve  us 
from  the  human  misery  by  manifesting  himself  as  thirty- 
three  different  bodies.  It  was  about  300  years  ago,  in  the 
time  of  our  great  Shogun  Toyotomi,  that  the  famous  matter 
of  archery,  which  is  to  shoot  bow  through  the  verandah  in 
the  back  of  temple,  took  place.  Hinceforce  many  warriors 
visited  here  to  pray  for  their  military  fortunes,  and  especially 
these  were  nourishing  about  180  years  ago,  during  Kyoho 
epoch.  Sanjiu-Sangendo  in  Kyoto,  Japan." 

A  characteristic  cemetery  is  that  of  Nishi  Otani,  the  burial 
place  of  members  of  the  Shinran  Shonin  sect.  The  small 
temple  is  a  handsome  structure,  and  in  the  rear  is  an  office 
containing  the  ashes  of  members  from  all  parts  of  the  country. 
The  Kyoto  members  are  buried  in  the  grounds,  which  are 
extensive,  neatly  kept,  and  crowded  with  square  upright 
stones  with  inscriptions.  Some  of  the  monuments  are  very 
expensive  and  hung  with  chimes  of  bells  that  tinkle  in  the 
wind.  The  overcrowded  effect  is  due  to  the  custom  of  inter- 
ring in  a  sitting  posture  in  coffins  but  four  feet  high.  Vines, 
rose-bushes,  and  bamboo  grow  wherever  there  is  a  spot  of 
ground  to  cling  to,  and  tall  cryptomerias  give  character  to  the 

255 


•ffn  Bamboo  SLanfcs* 


whole.  A  stone  bridge,  Megane-bashi  (so  named  from  its 
resemblance  to  a  pair  of  spectacles)  spans  the  lotus  pond, 
which  in  summer  is  full  of  blossoms. 

Cremation  was  introduced  from  China  by  the  Buddhists, 


NISHI  OTANI. 


and  is  extensively  practised  in  Japan.  The  process  of  reduc- 
ing to  ashes  is  similar  to  ours.  On  one  occasion  we  saw  a  na- 
tive funeral  procession  on  its  way  to  the  temple  headed  by  a 
number  of  priests  with  shaven  heads  and  cassocks  of  bright- 
colored  damask,  one  of  whom  bore  an  oblong  tablet  inscribed 

with  the  "  dead  name"  of  the  deceased,  for  good  Buddhists  re- 

256 


ceive  a  new  name  after  death,  to  be  known  by  in  the  next 
world ;  then  came  attendants  carrying-  twenty-four  huge  bou- 
quets, six  feet  high,  of  chrysanthemums,  and  after  them  the 
hearse  (a  basket  chair  similar  to  those  used  at  seaside  resorts) 


MEGANE-BASHI. 


containing  the  covered  remains,  and  borne  by  four  men 
There  were  no  hired  mourners,  but  a  long  train  of  relatives 
and  friends  followed.  It  was  an  honorable  and  dignified  fu- 
neral, quite  unlike  the  unpleasing  melancholy  institution  en- 
dured in  America.  In  the  temple,  the  burning  of  incense,  the 
ringing  of  bells,  and  prayers  intoned  by  the  priests  in  a  solenm, 
17  257 


Un  Bamboo  Xanfcs, 


reverential  manner  formed  the  simple  service.  The  death  of 
a  parent  is  the  greatest  misfortune  that  can  befall  a  son,  and 
the  burial  is  a  most  important  ceremony.  For  this  duty  he 
resigns  all  employment,  attends  to  the  many  funeral  rites 
ordained  by  custom,  and  mourns  for  thirteen  months,  wearing 
white  garments  during  that  period,  and  abstaining  from  ani- 
mal food  and  sake  for  fifty  days.  When  the  prescribed  details 
are  respected  the  ceremonies  before  and  after  burial  are  very 
elaborate.  Filial  honor  and  obedience  are  leading  virtues 
among  the  Japanese. 

Marriage  is  a  contract  legalized  by  registration  in  the 
office  of  the  head  man  of  the  town,  termed  kocho.  The  usual 
age  for  a  man  is  twenty  years ;  for  a  woman  sixteen.  A  lover 
fixes  a  sprig  of  lespedeza  to  the  house  of  the  lady's  parents, 
and  if  that  be  neglected  so  is  he ;  but  if  the  maiden  blackens 
her  teeth  he  is  accepted,  subject  to  the  approval  of  her  parents. 
Marriages,  however,  are  usually  arranged  by  the  families  of 
the  bride  and  bridegroom  without  reference  to  their  feelings. 
And  then  begins  a  general  interchange  of  presents,  often  so 
lavishly  given  as  to  cripple  for  a  time  the  resources  of  the 
donors.  This  corresponds  to  betrothal.  An  engagement  ring 
is  unknown.  A  piece  of  rich  silk  for  a  sash  takes  its  place. 
The  furniture  and  trousseau  of  the  bride  are  dispatched  to  the 
house  of  her  husband's  parents;  and,  after  her  arrival,  the 
characteristic  marriage  feast  is  celebrated — there  is  no  relig- 
ious element  in  it — and  is  of  the  nature  of  a  dinner  party.  The 
essential  features  are  the  changing  of  garments  and  the  elab- 
orate ceremony  of  sake-drinking.    The  registration  is  then 

25s 


1k£OtO, 


made  and  the  bride  is  formally  adopted  into  her  husband's 
family.  A  newly  married  pair  invariably  reside  with  the 
parents  of  the  groom. 

The  life  of  a  young  girl,  or  mousme  as  she  is  called,  is  as 
careless  and  happy  as  the  life  of  a  European,  but  marriage  is 
a  stern  reality.  She  then  becomes  subject  to  the  tyranny  of 
her  mother-in-law  and  the  caprice  of  her  husband,  and  accepts 
her  fate  as  a  matter  of  course.  The  charge  that  "  a  man  shall 
leave  father  and  mother  and  cleave  unto  his  wife"  is  reversed 
in  Japan.  Another  case  of  topsy-turvydom.  They  insist  that 
the  wife  shall  leave  father  and  mother  and  cleave  to  her  hus- 
band and  to  all  his  relatives.  There  are  seven  reasons  for  di- 
vorce, which  is  easy  and  not  rare,  but  the  pith  of  the  matter  is 
that  a  man  may  send  away  his  wife  whenever  he  gets  tired  of 
her.  "But  her  rights  as  against  him  are  less  extensive." 
This  digression  disposes  of  two  important  ceremonies. 

The  moral  character  of  the  Japanese — beg  pardon,  Dai 
Nippon ;  I  was  about  to  say  something  unpleasant  of  you. 

A  bridle-path  runs  from  Nishi  Otani  through  a  grove  of 
bamboo  to  the  grounds  of  Kiyomizu-dera.  A  feeling  of  sur- 
prise and  wonder  attends  the  first  view  of  this  lovely  foliage. 
Except  in  the  Northern  Island,  it  grows  everywhere  in  Japan, 
softening  and  beautifying  its  fair  landscape.  Of  its  many 
species  one  variety  in  particular,  whose  lovely  tips  resemble 
magnificent  ostrich-plumes,  I  grew  to  love  and  look  for. 
Bamboo  is  the  favorite  hedge  and  wind-break  along  the  high- 
ways.   At  one  season  the  young  and  tender  shoots  are  sought 

after  as  a  great  delicacy,  and  the  wood,  which  is  strong  and 

261 


1fn  JSamboo  Xanfcs, 


pliable,  enters  into  the  construction  of  temples,  houses, 
bridges,  carriages,  furniture,  musical  instruments,  cooking- 
utensils,  fans,  hats,  umbrellas,  shoes,  and  almost  every  orna- 
mental and  useful  article  imaginable.  The  people  are  indebted 
to  bamboo  for  a  formidable  list  of  gifts,  so  formidable  it  would 
be  simpler  to  enumerate  the  exceptions. 

The  plants,  fifty  feet  in  height,  then  had  attained  their 
growth.  The  graceful  feathery  tips  of  light  green  drooped 
high  overhead,  and  a  wild  tangle  of  ferns,  mosses,  bamboo- 
grass,  and  little  stunted  shrubs  covered  the  embankments.  It 
was  a  spot  of  rare  beauty.  The  day  was  perfect.  We  could 
have  lingered  there  the  entire  afternoon,  and  we  made  a  point 
of  including  it  thereafter  in  many  of  our  daily  walks. 

Kiyomizu-dera,  a  temple  so  ancient  its  origin  is  lost  in 
fable,  was  reached  only  too  soon.  The  great  two-story  gate- 
way was  infested  with  fakirs  and  menders  of  old  clothes,  and 
we  turned  aside  to  a  smaller  gate  that  opened  into  the  gre#t 
courtyard,  containing  a  pagoda  and  a  number  of  shrines.  An 
effective  stone  colonnade  leads  to  the  main  temple,  dedicated 
to  the  eleven-faced,  thousand-handed  Kwannon,  who  holds  in 
her  hands  a  number  of  Buddhist  emblems,  "  such  as  the  lotus- 
flower,  the  wheel  of  the  law,  the  sun  and  moon,  a  skull,  a 
pagoda,  and  an  axe,  this  last  serving  to  typify  the  cutting  off 
of  all  worldly  cares."  Her  image  is  contained  in  a  shrine  to 
be  opened  but  once  in  thirty-three  years.  We  were  a  decade 
or  two  behind  time,  but  the  powerful  yen,  like  "the  mighty 
dollar,"  opened  it  just  the  same.    The  building  is  large  and 

erected  on  piles  over  a  deep  gorge.    The  gallery  in  front  has 

262 


IRpoto. 


a  flooring  of  rough  timber  and  is  used  as  a  dancing-stage.  It 
was  formerly  a  favorite  resort  of  suicides,  who  threw  them- 
selves over  to  certain  destruction  on  the  rocks  below.  Re- 
cently a  high  railing  has  been  built  that  has  put  a  stop  to  the 
practice.  These  victims,  inextricably  entangled  in  love's  net, 
usually  die  in  pairs  after  solemnly  pledging  themselves  to  each 
other  before  a  shrine. 

The  superstitions  connected  with  love  are  endless,  and  oc- 
casionally a  disappointment  will  drive  a  hopeless  maiden  to 
revenge.  Having  made  a  figure  of  straw  which  represents 
the  disloyal  lover,  she  repairs  "  at  the  hour  of  the  ox,"  two  in 
the  morning,  to  a  shrine  in  the  wood  and  fastens  the  effigy  to 
the  sacred  tree,  asking  the  gods  as  she  does  so  to  impute  the 
desecration  to  her  lover  and  to  avenge  his  perfidy.  Several 
visits  of  this  kind  are  supposed  to  have  the  desired  effect.  The 
lover  gradually  droops  and  dies — a  sacrifice  to  love  and  grief, 
unique  result  of  the  exploits  of  that  eccentric  divinity  whose 
antics  are  "as  cruel  as  the  grave."  We  left  the  grounds  by 
the  grand  entrance  and  descended  the  long  flights  of  steps,  at 
the  foot  of  which  our  kurumas  awaited  us. 

This  locality  has  been  dubbed  "teapot  hill,"  from  the  nu- 
merous shops  for  the  sale  of  these  articles  in  every  shape  and 
pattern.  The  true  Japanese  teapot  has  a  hollow  handle  placed 
at  right  angles,  with  a  short,  straight  spout.  An  endless  vari- 
ety of  sake  bottles  and  cups,  with  the  seven  gods  of  luck  with- 
in, were  not  less  interesting.  The  steep,  winding  street  lead- 
ing to  town  is  bordered  its  entire  length  with  houses  where 

little  earthenware  dolls  are  made  and  sold — a  collection  so  cu- 

265 


1Fn  Bamboo  Xanfcs, 


rious  in  a  land  of  curiosities  that,  enticed  from  shop  to  shop, 
we  forgot  the  lapse  of  time,  until  reminded  by  a  coolie,  who 
remarked  "me  eatee" — a  vacuity  of  phrase  which  we  did  not 
wait  to  investigate. 

Just  below  the  entrance  to  the  hotel  grounds  are  the  quar- 
ters of  the  kurumayas,  and  the  faithful  men  were  always  on 
duty  at  whatever  hour  required.  They  have  a  look  of  comfort 
and  good-humor  which  is  a  Japanese  trait.  I  had  hired  one 
for  my  sojourn  and  soon  grew  to  like  his  pleasant,  homely 
face,  and  felt  so  secure  in  his  kindly  care  that  I  frequently 
rode  for  miles  at  night  behind  his  fleet  feet.  A  cab-horse 
might  run  away  or  go  lame,  but  with  a  sure-footed  man  it  is 
different.  Just  before  I  left  Kyoto  he  introduced  me  to  his 
pretty  young  wife  and  children,  who  lived  cosily  and  happily 
on  his  father's  farm  near  Otsu.  One  ought  to  see  something 
of  this  old  civilization  to  understand  what  peace  of  mind 
means. 

"The  wisest,  happiest,  of  our  kind  are  they 
That  ever  walk  content  with  nature's  way." 

Tea-houses  and  photograph  galleries  edge  the  lane  that  con- 
nects with  the  main  Kyoto  thoroughfare,  and  at  the  foot  are 
numerous  show-tents  and  an  irrepressible  troop  of  monkeys, 
that,  in  spite  of  our  liberal  efforts  supplemented  by  those  of 
the  general  public,  continued  ever  in  a  state  of  imminent  star- 
vation. A  famous  cherry-tree,  planted  three  hundred  years 
ago,  stands  in  the  open  space,  that  swarmed  with  children  at 

play.    Kite-flying  (bamboo  frames  covered  with  tough  paper), 

266 


/ 


1fc£OtO* 


top-spinning,  battledore  and  shuttlecock,  and  other  familiar 
games  were  the  favorites.  Little  girls  of  seven  or  eight  years, 
dressed  like  their  elders  and  powdered  and  rouged,  played  at 
games  with  babies  on  their  backs ;  and  smaller  ones  staggered 
tinder  their  loads,  or  carried  a  big  doll  strapped  on  in  a  similar 
fashion. 

When  a  baby  is  seven  days  old  its  name  is  officially  regis- 
tered, and  on  that  day  the  family  eats  festival  rice  cooked 
with  red  beans,  to  bring  good  luck.  The  boys'  heads  are  all 
shaved,  except  funny  little  tufts  on  the  top  or  back  of  the  ears. 
No  matter  where  one  goes,  the  extraordinary  number  of  chil- 
dren one  sees  is  remarkable ;  and  I  rather  liked  them,  as  they 
are  usually  fat  and  well-nourished,  quiet  and  well-behaved, 
and  a  never-failing  source  of  amusement. 

The  nation  has  a  fondness  for  birds  and  insects  as  well  as  for 
flowers.  Buddha  forbade  their  destruction,  and  no  Japanese 
child  would  kill  or  torment  the  smallest  created  thing. 

An  open  space,  still  farther  down  the  avenue,  was  the  stand 
of  a  noisy  crowd  of  kurumayas,  who  were  determined  we 
should  not  walk.  They  were  even  more  importunate  in  their 
demands  than  their  kindred  in  Yokohama.  We  tolerated  them 
for  some  days,  and  each  day  the  clamor  grew  louder,  until  at 
last  they  surrounded  us  and  interrupted  our  exercise.  Things 
had  gone  too  far — we  hesitated,  summoned  an  official,  and  left 
them  to  snarl. 

At  the  foot  of  the  hill  the  Kamo-gawa  River,  crossed  by  nu- 
merous bridges,  intersects  the  city.    It  has  the  same  habit  of 

shrinking  common  to  all  on  the  island,  and  at  that  season  was 

269 


1Fn  bamboo  Xante* 


but  a  narrow  stream  with  much  of  its  pebbly  bed  free  from 
water.  On  these  long  stretches  of  sand  tons  of  edible  sea- 
weed were  hung  on  lines  to  dry,  and  quantities  of  cotton  cloth 
were  spread  out  to  bleach.  These  two  are  important  indus- 
tries.   Seaweed  is  a  favorite  article  of  diet,  and  after  being 


WASH-DAY. 


dried  is  carried  into  the  interior,  where  it  forms  part  of  every 

meal  among  the  peasantry.    The  kimona  of  the  poorer  class  is 

made  entirely  of  cotton  tacked  or  basted  together,  and  when 

washed  is  taken  to  pieces,  and  each  piece,  after  being  slightly 

stiffened,  is  stretched  on  a  board  to  dry. 

In  close  proximity  to  the  modern  English  railway  station  is 

the  ancient  twin  temple  of  Nishi  Hongwanji.      Our  guide 

270 


1k£OtO> 


pointed  to  a  large  icho  tree  in  the  courtyard,  and  told  us  with 
a  solemn  air  of  belief  that  in  case  of  fire  in  the  neighborhood 
the  temple  would  not  require  the  services  of  the  "  department" 
— the  tree  would  protect  it  by  the  discharge  of  volumes  of  wa- 
ter. We  were  allowed  to  enter  after  the  coolies  had  tied  over 
our  shoes  blue  cotton  socks — ill-fitting  things  that  would  not 
stay  on ;  and  we  had  constantly  to  retrace  our  steps  to  recover 
a  missing  gaiter.  A  priest  appeared  to  show  us  around,  and 
at  his  request  we  placed  our  names  upon  the  temple  register. 
The  central  hall  is  very  plain,  but  the  walls  and  columns  of 
the  large  rooms  at  either  end  are  heavy  with  gilt  and  orna- 
mented with  lotus-flowers  and  leaves.  The  kakemonos  there 
displayed  are  its  chief  glory.  On  the  dark-blue  ground  of 
these  mural  hangings — nearly  two  centuries  old — prayers  to 
Amida  are  inscribed.  These,  with  the  portraits  of  successive 
high  priests,  are  magnificent  specimens  from  the  brush  of  that 
celebrated  school  of  painters  which  originated  early  in  1400. 
Gold  plays  an  important  role  in  Japanese  art,  and  is  lavishly 
used  in  the  nave ;  the  folding  doors,  the  sliding  screens,  the 
panels,  and  frieze  are  richly  gilded  and  decorated  with  winter 
scenes  and  pierced  woodwork.  The  chancel  glistened  faintly 
in  the  half-light,  and  the  priest  held  tapers  that  we  might  see 
to  better  effect  the  elaborately  carved  black-lacquered  altar, 
the  handsome  gold  shrine,  and  wonderful  carvings  of  the  ceil- 
ing. The  ornaments  of  the  high  altar  are  two  candlesticks, 
two  vases  filled  with  natural  flowers,  and  an  ancient  bronze 
incense  burner. 

The  smaller  temple  is  connected  with  the  larger  by  a  cov- 

271 


Ifn  Bamboo  Xanfcs. 


ered  passage,  and  its  decorations,  much  faded  and  discolored, 
are  also  the  work  of  famous  artists.  The  painting  on  one 
panel  is  very  cleverly  executed;  there  is  also  a  fine  sliding 
screen,  on  whose  gold  ground  a  Kano  had  painted  a  peach-tree 
in  full  blossom,  and  perched  among  its  sprays  are  a  peacock 
and  peahen  of  jewelled  plumage.  The  golden  shrine  contains 
an  image  of  Ami  da  surrounded  by  a  halo. 

Our  permit  gave  admission  to  the  State  apartments  of  a 
hundred  rooms,  whose  walls  are  overspread  with  gold-leaf. 
The  effect  was  beautiful  and  bewildering.  We  were  taken 
into  room  after  room,  where  the  talent  of  the  Japanese  artist 
is  shown  in  rich  designs  of  bamboo  on  gold  ground,  fans,  pea- 
cocks, the  lovely  blossoms  of  cherry  and  plum  trees,  the  royal 
flower  of  Japan,  the  snow-white  camellia,  the  graceful  wista- 
ria, and  Chinese  landscapes  treated  with  infinite  grace  and 
skill.  We  gazed  at  these  superb  decorations  until  weary,  and 
were  relieved  when  shown  into  the  garden,  exquisitely  laid 
out  with  small  lakes  that  seemed  made  to  float  paper  boats, 
little  ponds  of  gold  and  silver  fish,  tiny  stone  bridges,  and 
moss-grown  lanterns,  paths  that  end  in  dense  shrubbery,  trees 
grown  to  great  height  as  nature  intended,  and  pines  dwarfed 
by  art.  The  garden,  enclosed  by  high  walls,  is  solitary  and 
silent  in  the  midst  of  a  crowded  city.  The  summer  palace  of 
Hideyoshi,  a  small  pavilion  in  a  remote  corner  of  the  grounds, 
is  its  chief  charm.  We  ascended  to  the  upper  gallery  and 
looked  down  upon  that  retreat  of  perfect  sweetness  far  from 
the  noise  of  busy  streets. 

In  the  temple  enclosure  stands  the  theological  seminary 

272 


ikpoto. 


for  the  education  of  Buddhist  priests,  some  of  whom  are  to  be 
sent  as  missionaries  to  Christian  countries ;  for,  as  the  monk 
remarked  in  perfect  English :  "  If  you  send  men  to  convert  us, 
why  should  we  not  pay  you  the  same  attention,  as  we  know 


BUDDHIST  PRIESTS. 

our  religion  to  be  more  ancient  and  more  logical  than  yours?" 

Not  wishing  to  be  entangled  in  erudite  discussions,  we  did  not 

attempt  to  deny  the  statement,  and  began  to  muse  upon  the 

new  order  of  things  when  our  religious  training  should  be  in 

the  hands  of  a  teacher  of  Buddhism. 

Japan  is  now  without  a  State  religion,  although  a  recent 
18  273 


1fn  JBamboo  Xanfcs. 


attempt  was  made  in  parliament  to  make  the  Christian  the  re- 
ligion of  the  State,  and  failed  because  it  was  declared  illogical. 
There  are  as  many  Buddhist  sects  as  Christian,  and  missiona- 
ries have  gained  a  certain  advantage  from  that  fact,  in  explain- 
ing the  differences  in  forms  and  ceremonies  of  denominations 
represented  there,  as  all  foreign  churches  are  erected  side  by 
side  on  land  conceded  by  the  government.  Resident  Euro- 
peans, by  their  irreligion,  and  the  number  of  Eurasians  or 
half-castes — unfortunate  children  of  Christian  fathers — at  the 
open  ports  do  much  to  retard  the  spread  of  Christianity,  and 
travellers,  in  the  rush  of  sight-seeing,  neglect  their  own  places 
of  worship  to  visit  heathen  shrines.  It  is  a  trying  condition  of 
affairs. 

Buddhist  temples  are  always  open,  night  and  day,  through- 
out the  year ;  and  some  of  the  most  wonderful  temples  in  the 
world  are  those  in  which  Buddha  is  worshipped.  In  Japan 
alone  there  are  about  seventy  thousand;  the  old  faith  has 
been  sleeping  but  is  by  no  means  dead,  and  it  is  not  surprising 
that  a  new  can  gain  but  little  headway.  To  study  Buddhism 
is  to  be  entangled  in  a  network  of  metaphysics ;  to  solve  its 
tangled  "mysteries"  is  to  find  that  its  highest  end  is  to  enter 
finally  and  forever  into  the  "  state  of  Nirvana,  the  essence  of 
Buddha" — cessation  of  sorrow,  utter  annihilation,  complete 
extinction,  perpetual  rest.  Shinto  (a  Chinese  word  meaning 
the  "Way  of  the  Gods"),  the  ancient  religion  of  the  empire, 
prescribes  the  reverence  of  the  Mikado  as  supreme  sovereign, 
and  of  his  maternal  ancestress,  the  sun  goddess,  as  the  chief  of 

its  deities.     It  is  merely  ancestor  worship,  and  its  outgrowth 

274 


Ikpoto, 


is  the  veneration  of  parents.  The  priests  are  allowed  to  mar- 
ry. Religion  in  Japan  is  a  study  by  itself,  a  subject  to  which 
the  natives  seem  to  be  rather  indifferent;  and  one  religion 
more  or  less  is  of  little  account 


with  a  nation  so  intensely  ma- 
terialistic. 

We  re-entered  the  temple 
in  time  to  be  present  at  a  Bud- 
dhist service — a  gorgeous  and 
impressive  ceremonial.  It  was 
difficult  to  realize  we  were  not 
in  a  Christian  church.  The 
magnificent  high  altar  with  its 
candlesticks  and  lighted  candles, 
the  draped  figures  of  Buddha 
with  halos  on  their  heads,  vases 
with  freshly  gathered  flowers, 
the  burning  incense  that  per- 
vaded the  sanctuary,  the  ringing 


of   sweet-toned   bells,  the  em- 
broidered  vestments,    and    the  SH1Nj5  pR|EST- 
richness   and  splendor   of  the 

ritual  formed  a  combination  curiously  similar.  Did  the  Euro- 
pean borrow  from  the  Asiatic?  "  Too  much  has  been  made  of 
rituals  and  vestments,"  "  empty  forms  and  ceremonies,"  and 
religion  is  confounded  with  creed.  Erasmus  says :  "  The 
world  is  choked  with  opinions  which  are  but  human  after  all. 
.  .  .  Money  must  be  spent  to  buy  organs,  and  teach  boys  to 

275 


1Tn  Bamboo  Xanfcs, 


squeal.  ...  If  they  want  music,  let  them  sing  psalms  like  ra- 
tional beings,  and  not  too  many  of  those.  .  .  .  Theologians  are 
never  tired  of  discussing  the  modes  of  sin,  whether  it  be  a 
privation  in  the  soul  or  a  spot  on  the  soul.  .  .  .  We  dispute 
how  the  Father  differs  from  the  Son,  and  both  from  the  Holy 
Ghost,  whether  it  be  a  difference  of  fact  or  a  difference  of  re- 
lation, and  how  three  can  be  one  when  neither  of  the  three  is 
the  other." 

It  was  an  hour  past  noon  when  we  left  the  temple  and 
made  our  way  to  Higashi  Hongwanji,  through  streets  of  shops 
where  ecclesiastical  goods  are  made  and  sold.  The  fronts 
were  crowded  with  shrines,  idols,  household  gods,  religious 
knickknacks,  and  all  the  gorgeous  paraphernalia  of  Buddhist 
worship.  The  devout  Japanese  have  plenty  of  things  to  adore. 
It  was  interesting  to  watch  the  manufacture  of  deities,  gro- 
tesquely represented  in  wood  or  bronze,  and  the  shrines  in 
brass  and  gold-leaf  for  use  in  private  houses.  It  seemed 
strange  to  us  that  these  deluded  souls  could  address  prayers  to 
an  idol  made  to  order  under  their  own  eyes.  Incense,  too,  is 
used  in  large  quantities,  and  shops  for  the  sale  of  it  are  sepa- 
rate and  numerous. 

Higashi  Hongwanji,  founded  on  the  site  of  a  former  tem- 
ple, was  destroyed  by  fire  in  1867,  and  is  now  being  rebuilt. 
Begun  in  1868,  this  remarkable  structure  has  taken  all  these 
years  to  construct,  and  thus  far  eight  millions  of  dollars  have 
been  expended  upon  it.  Buddhism  has  had  a  wonderful  re- 
vival, as  is  evidenced  by  the  popular  enterprise  that  built  the 

huge  edifice.    Subscriptions  were  sent  from  all  parts  of  the 

276 


Ikpoto. 


country,  timber  and  other  materials  were  furnished  by  the 
neighboring  provinces,  and  the  poor  have  given  their  labor. 
Women  of  all  ages  cut  off  their  hair  and  sent  it  to  be  woven 
into  ropes  of  every  size,  from  a  small  cord  to  a  big  cable. 
They  were  used  to  hoist  stone  and  timber,  and  now  lie  in 
great  coils  on  the  portico,  to  be  preserved  as  relics.  The 
structure  was  greatly  encumbered  by  an  enormous  scaffolding, 
formed  of  poles  tied  together  by  ropes  that  appeared  insecure 
enough  to  alarm  us  as  we  stood  under  it  to  watch  the  carpen- 
ters and  the  wood-carvers  at  work.  This  noble  edifice  has 
been  built  entirely  by  hand-labor,  without  machinery  of  any 
kind ;  and  scores  of  men  and  women  stood  ready  to  assist  in 
placing  huge  logs  in  position.  Who  can  dare  to  assert,  in 
presence  of  this  work,  that  Buddhism  is  dying  out?  The 
building  is  of  wood  and  the  interior  is  finished  with  keaki,  the 
Japanese  elm,  much  prized  and  used  generally  for  the  nave  of 
temples.  It  is  one  of  the  finest  of  the  native  trees,  and  grows 
to  an  enormous  size.  The  only  ornaments  we  saw  were  the 
four  magnificent  bronze  lanterns  that  stand  in  the  courtyard. 

The  fatiguing  day  was  at  an  end,  and  our  veranda 
was  never  more  restful  than  when  we  reclined  in  luxury 
at  cup-of-tea  time  to  watch  the  sunset  on  the  mountains, 
and,  enveloped  in  rugs,  to  enjoy  a  half-hour  nap  before 
dinner. 

The  weather  continued  fine,  to  our  great  delight,  and  my 

comrade  suggested  that  we  spend  the  following  day  in  the 

country.     She  chose  the  excursion  to  Uji,  the  most  famous  of 

the  Japanese  tea  districts,  a  ride  of  eleven  miles  by  kuruma 

277 


ITn  Bamboo  Xante. 


over  good  roads.  It  was  a  beautiful  day;  the  air  was  warm 
with  not  a  breath  of  wind  stirring,  the  sun  shone  brightly, 
overhead  was  the  blue  sky,  and  we  were  soon  beyond  the  lim- 
its of  the  old  town  and  riding  among  fields  that  stretch  over 
the  plain  without  a  fence  to  mar  the  landscape.  We  stopped 
twice  at  tea-houses  to  give  the  coolies  a  short  rest,  and  gath- 
ered great  armfuls  of  scarlet  lilies  and  bought  shoots  of  bam- 
boo to  decorate  the  carriages,  not  foreseeing  in  what  a  plight 
we  should  find  ourselves.  In  possession  of  the  long-coveted 
foliage,  our  happiness  was  complete  as  we  rode  into  Uji  with 
the  feathery  tips  waving  about  us.  Then,  as  a  bolt  out  of  the 
blue,  and  without  knowing  the  cause,  we  were  stopped  by  an 
official,  who  demanded  our  passports,  opened  them,  and 
pointed  angrily  to  a  certain  line.  We  glanced  at  the  transla- 
tion and  learned  that  we  were  accused  of  "injuring  plants," 
and  were  answerable  for  a  breach  of  the  law.  I  can  imagine 
what  a  forlorn  appearance  we  must  have  presented  at  that  mo- 
ment, as,  surrounded  by  an  excited  crowd,  we  waited  for  our 
stupid  guide  to  explain  to  the  not  less  stupid  official  that  the 
bamboo  had  been  paid  for  with  good,  honest  silver.  Another 
five  minutes  was  consumed  in  appeasing  the  villagers,  who 
could  not  comprehend  why  foreigners  should  be  allowed  to  de- 
stroy shrubs  to  adorn  kurumas.  Peace  was  restored  at  last, 
and  we  were  allowed  to  proceed  after  the  offending  branches 
had  been  torn  away  and  hidden  under  the  seats.  A  great  stir 
had  been  raised  and  all  for  nothing.  We  pushed  forward  with 
lighter  hearts. 

The  village  of  Uji  lies  on  the  banks  of  the  broad  Yodagwaa 

278 


Ikpoto. 


River,  environed  by  plantations  famous  for  producing  the  finest 
tea  in  Japan.  Tea-raising  in  this  district  dates  from  1291, 
and  must  be  added  to  the  list  of  good  things  brought  from 
China  by  Buddhist  priests  in  a.d.  805.     There  were  no  facto- 


TEA  HOUSE. 


ries  for  drying  and  selling  the  tea ;  each  family  worked  by  it- 
self in  a  small  way.  We  went  to  several  tiny  homes,  and  saw 
the  leaves  spread  out  on  mats,  drying  in  the  sun.  Some 
grades  of  tea  bring  high  prices — notably  the  Gyokuro,  which 
sells  for  six  dollars  a  pound.    Our  inefficient  guide,  anxious 

to  redeem  his  reputation,  induced  us  to  visit  an  old  Buddhist 

279 


ITn  Bamboo  Xanfcs, 


temple  founded  in  1052,  and  noted  for  its  kakemonos,  scrolls, 
and  relics  of  Yorimasa — a  warrior  of  the  twelfth  century,  who, 
after  "prodigies  of  valor,"  hard  pressed  by  his  enemies,  com- 
mitted harakiri  at  the  age  of  seventy-five.  Phoenix  Hall,  in 
the  same  grounds,  is  an  ancient  building,  reproduced  at  the 
World's  Fair  in  1893. 

The  day  was  too  lovely  to  waste  in  dingy  interiors,  and  we 
hastened  on  to  spend  the  noontide  hour  at  one  of  the  many 
tea-houses  that  overlook  the  river.  The  tea-houses  of  Uji  are 
ideal  and  are  ceaselessly  represented  by  Japanese  art.  The 
architecture  is  unique,  the  finish  artistic,  the  broad  balconies 
afford  fine  views  up  and  down  the  river,  and  their  gardens  are 
as  pretty  as  native  taste  can  make  them.  Clumps  of  bamboo 
and  maples  with  sprays  of  scarlet  and  gold  brightened  the  hill- 
slopes,  and  up  the  deep  gorge  ferns  and  mosses  overgrew  the 
cliffs.  We  chose  one  of  these  inviting  inns  and  removed  our 
shoes  before  ascending  to  an  upper  room,  whose  polished  floor 
was  so  exquisite  we  feared  to  mar  its  shining  surface,  being 
quite  as  unwilling  to  walk  over  it  as  to  step  on  a  silken  train 
in  boots  besmeared  with  mud.  We  had  provided  ourselves 
with  a  lunch,  as  the  traveller  soon  learns,  through  experi- 
ence, not  to  trust  to  ordinary  Japanese  food.  The  little  wait- 
resses— I  cannot  state  how  many,  as  they  all  looked  alike — 
arranged  the  repast  on  a  table  that  looked  coarse  and  out  of 
place  in  that  gem-like  room.  The  tea  was  delicious  and  brewed 
to  perfection,  as  the  Japanese  are  tea  epicures.  The  water 
for  making  the  beverage  is  heated  but  never  allowed  to  boil, 

and  after  remaining  on  the  leaves  for  a  moment,  until  it  be- 

280 


comes  a  greenish  straw  color,  the  infusion  is  poured  off,  or  the 
result  would  be  bitter. 

The  balcony  afforded  fine  views  up  the  gorge  where  the 
river  breaks  through  the  hills,  and  over  the  acres  of  tea-plants 
just  coming  into  bloom.  The  myriads  of  white  blossoms 
twinkled  over  the  fields  like  snowflakes  thereon  sprinkled. 
The  plant  is  a  camellia,  and  lovely  when  covered  with  flowers, 
but  provokingly  devoid  of  fragrance,  especially  in  that  small 
empire ;  for,  as  a  witty  writer  on  Japan  has  said :  "  There  is  a 
mistake  somewhere,  and  the  result  is  that  in  one  of  the  most 
beautiful  and  fertile  countries  in  the  world  the  flowers  have 
no  scent,  the  birds  no  song,  and  the  fruit  and  vegetables  no 
flavor." 

Our  curiosity  had  been  aroused  to  see  a  Japanese  ferry, 
and  a  short  walk  up  the  stream  gave  us  the  desired  opportu- 
nity. It  was  operated  in  a  primitive  way.  On  each  bank  of 
the  river  a  pole  was  securely  fixed  in  the  ground,  and  stretched 
between  them  was  a  stout  rope.  A  man  at  the  stern  steered 
the  boat,  while  a  second  ferried  it  along  by  hand-over-hand 
motions  on  the  cord.  As  business  was  dull  that  afternoon,  we 
were  ferried  over  and  back  for  several  trips ;  and  if  the  men 
in  charge  enjoyed  their  earnings  half  as  much  as  we  did  the 
rides,  we  parted  mutually  satisfied.  Then  we  started  back  to 
Kyoto.  We  took  boat  down  the  river  to  Fushima,  celebrated 
as  the  residence  of  St.  Francis  Xavier,  who  landed  at  Kago- 
shima,  on  the  island  of  Kyushu,  on  the  15th  of  August,  1549,  and 
began  his  missionary  activity  among  the  Japanese.     Here  our 

kurumas  awaited  us,  and  we  were  soon  dashing  over  the  road 

283 


1Fn  Bamboo  SLanfcs* 


on  our  return.  After  the  unpleasant  incident  of  the  morning, 
the  feathery  beauties  caused  no  further  disturbance,  and  they 
festooned  the  balcony  outside  for  many  a  day. 

The  palace  of  the  Mikado  and  the  castle  of  the  Shogim  are 
considered  the  most  attractive  sights  in  Ky5to.  We  had  re- 
served the  visit  for  a  rainy  day  which  came  not ;  so,  armed  cap- 
a-pie  with  permit,  passports,  guide-book,  and  small  change,  we 
were  set  down  before  one  of  the  six  gates  in  the  wall  of  mud 
and  plaster  that  encloses  the  palace  grounds.  The  sentry  ex- 
amined the  papers  before  allowing  us  to  cross  the  spacious 
courtyard  to  an  irregular  group  of  dark  buildings  that  cover 
twenty-six  acres.  Externally  the  palace  is  unattractive  and 
without  pretensions  to  architectural  beauty,  entirely  opposed 
to  foreign  ideas  of  a  royal  residence ;  but  its  internal  decora- 
tions enjoy  great  repute.  Visitors,  on  arrival,  enter  by  the 
gate  of  the  "  August  Kitchen,"  and  are  shown  into  a  room 
furnished  with  bright-colored  European  carpets  of  startling 
pattern  and  chairs  upholstered  with  magenta,  that  most  detest- 
able of  all  colors.  Names  were  registered,  cotton  socks  ad- 
justed, and,  escorted  by  two  court  officials,  we  began  the  in- 
spection of  a  series  of  cold  rooms  without  furniture  or  any 
means  of  heating  them.  The  first  suite  of  apartments — used 
only  on  state  occasions  or  for  festivals  of  the  ancient  religion — 
were  covered  with  exquisite  matting.  In  one  room  a  portion 
of  the  floor  is  made  of  cement ;  each  morning  this  was  sprinkled 
with  sand,  that  the  Mikado,  according  to  prescribed  form, 
might  worship  his  ancestors  without  descending  to  the  ground. 

The  throne  was  draped  with  rich  white,  black,  and  red  silks. 

284 


Ikpoto* 


We  were  next  shown  into  a  great  hall  used  for  coronation  cere- 
monies, the  New  Year's  audience,  and  on  other  state  occasions. 
The  panels  were  originally  decorated  with  paintings  of  Chinese 
sages,  the  work  of  a  noted  artist  of  the  ninth  century ;  unfor- 


THE  PALACE  OF  THE  MIKADO. 


tunately  many  of  the  originals  destroyed  by  fire  had  been  re- 
placed by  copies.  In  the  centre  of  the  room  is  the  raised  dais, 
with  canopy  of  beautiful  white  silk  decorated  with  a  pattern 
representing  "the  bark  of  an  aged  pine-tree."  The  stools  at 
either  side  are  rests  for  the  imperial  insignia,  the  Mirror,  the 
Sword,  and  the  Crystal,  that  have  been  handed  down  by  genera- 
tions of  successive  Emperors.    The  mirror  is  the  emblem  of 

2»s 


Un  iBamlvo  Xanfcr. 


justice,  the  sword  of  power,  and  the  crystal  of  virtue.  In 
ancient  times  the  mirror  was  kept  in  the  imperial  palace,  but 
later  was  removed  to  the  temples  of  Ise,  where  a  shrine  was 
erected  for  it.  When  the  Emperor  sees  in  this  mirror  his  im- 
perial person,  descended  in  an  unbroken  line  from  his  ancestress 
Ama-terasu,  the  Sun  goddess,  he  is  supposed  to  be  reminded 
of  the  ancestral  commandment  to  love  the  people  as  his  own 
family. 

The  descent  to  the  court  is  by  eighteen  steps,  each  of  which 
corresponds  to  a  grade  of  rank  into  which  the  nobility  were 
divided,  ranging  from  those  who  must  remain  on  the  ground 
to  the  highest,  who  could  ascend  and  enter  the  royal  presence. 
Passing  through  a  corridor,  we  were  shown  the  Emperor's 
study  with  shelves  and  recesses  of  lacquer- work  for  books  and 
writing-materials.  Xear  by  is  a  theatre  to  which  the  imperial 
household  resorted  to  witness  the  Xo  performances — a  kind  of 
lyric  drama  recited  by  two  persons  in  a  dramatic  manner  and 
attended  only  by  the  aristocracy. 

We  were  next  shown  into  a  charming  suite  of  eleven  rooms 

where  the  Mikados  for  six  centuries  had  lived  and  died  secluded 

from  their  families  and  the  world,  seeing  nothing  but  minute 

representations  of  the  empire  over  which  they  ruled.  The 

royal  bed-chamber  was  so  surrounded  by  apartments  that  it 

was  impossible  for  one  to  approach  His  Majesty  without  the 

knowledge  of  his  guards.    All  these  rooms  are  ornamented 

with  paintings  by  competent  Japanese  artists.    Lacquer  and 

choice  woods  are  lavishly  used :  on  dead-gold  ground,  scenes 

from  nature  are  depicted;  a  wall-design  represents  lakes  and 

2S6 


Ikpoto. 


rivers  overgrown  with  rushes,  among-  which  song-birds  flut- 
ter; another,  forest  scenes  with  groups  of  animals;  and  the 
panels  of  a  third  display  flowers,  fruits,  birds,  and  insects  worthy 
the  brush  of  a  Landseer.  We  had  passed  through  all  these 
courts,  corridors,  and  halls  without  seeing  a  human  being  and 
without  hearing  a  sound — all  was  dreary  and  deserted.  The 
present  Emperor  lived  but  for  a  short  period  in  the  old  palace, 
as  he  was  but  sixteen  years  of  age  when  his  rights  were  re- 
stored and  his  residence  changed  to  Tokyo. 

We  next  visited  the  Castle  or  Nijo  Palace,  externally  much 
like  that  at  Nagoya,  protected  by  broad  moats  and  massive 
walls  with  turrets  at  the  angles.  This  mighty  fortress  was 
built  by  the  Shogun  Ieyasu  in  1601  as  a  residence  when  he 
visited  Kyoto.  It  was  here  the  Mikado,  in  1868,  "met  the 
Council  of  State,  and  in  their  presence  swore  to  grant  a  delib- 
erate assembly  and  to  decide  all  measures  by  public  opinion." 
In  later  years,  while  occupied  by  the  prefecture  of  Kyoto,  many 
of  its  antique  works  of  art  were  defaced  or  destroyed.  Since 
it  has  been  reserved  for  a  royal  palace,  to  which  the  Emperor 
occasionally  comes  for  a  change  of  air,  much  has  been  effected 
in  restoring  it  to  its  former  splendor,  and  the  imperial  crest 
— the  sixteen-petalled  chrysanthemum — has  in  many  instances 
replaced  the  three  asarum  leaves  of  the  Shogun. 

We  entered  the  enclosure  that  surrounds  it  by  the  great 

gate,  heavy  with  carvings  and  clamped  with  bronze-work  that 

deserves  close  attention.    Ancient  pines,  interesting  relics  of  a 

past  age,  flourish  in  the  courtyard.    The  inner  gate  is  still 

more  gorgeous  in  its  wealth  of  gold  and  colors,  and  curious 

287 


In  bamboo  Xante. 


carvings  by  a  renowned  engraver  of  Japan,  the  son  of  a  peasant, 
who  became  a  wood-carver  by  chance  and  raised  the  trade 
from  simple  carpenter-work  to  a  place  among  the  fine  arts. 
The  castle  is  a  rambling  one-story  building  with  immense 
rooms  without  either  furniture  or  mats — furniture  they  never 
had,  and  vandalism  destroyed  the  mats.  The  walls  are  in- 
crusted  with  gold  and  silver  leaf.  Enormous  paintings  on  gold 
ground  by  artists  of  skill  represent  baskets  of  flowers,  fans, 
trees  of  various  kinds,  animals  feeding,  and  birds  in  flight. 
The  wide  friezes  of  pierced  woodwork  for  ventilation  are  ex- 
quisitely fine.  In  one  set,  the  effect  is  striking  and  beautiful: 
minutely  carved  peacocks  are  displayed  on  one  side  and  per- 
fectly outlined  peonies  on  the  other. 

The  Hall  of  Audience  is  provided  with  two  levels.  On  the 
higher  one  the  Shogun  sat  in  gorgeous  state  surrounded  by 
his  court  to  receive  the  daimyos  with  their  glittering  trains, 
who  prostrated  themselves  on  the  floor  below.  This  apartment 
is  decorated  with  enormous  plum-trees  and  a  wealth  of  gold- 
leaf  and  the  many  fine-metal  crests  of  the  Shogun  that  have 
been  suffered  to  remain.  The  panels  of  the  reception-room 
are  charmingly  ornamented  with  paintings  of  cherry-trees  in 
full  blossom,  and  many  other  details  were  noticed,  among 
which  was  a  bit  of  antique  cloisonne.  We  were  shown  through 
endless  suites  of  rooms,  rich  in  decorative  screens  that  we  ex- 
amined and  admired  until  exhausted  with  so  much  of  history 
and  of  art.  Not  once  in  our  tour  of  the  Castle  did  either  officer 
or  guide  mention  the  Emperor.     Everything  of  interest  is 

connected  with  the  Shoguns,  those  great  Tvcoons  who  spared 

288 


1k£OtO. 


no  expense  in  rearing-  palaces  and  tombs  the  finest  in  the 
empire,  as  monuments  for  all  time  of  their  superior  abilities. 

The  longer  one  remains  in  Kyoto  the  more  satisfying-  it  be- 
comes :  one  finds  how  uninterruptedly  the  old  life  of  the  people 


STREET  IN  KYOTO. 


is  going  on,  notwithstanding  the  influx  of  European  ideas. 
Besides  the  many  fine  establishments  of  costly  goods,  there  are 
streets  without  number  of  curio-shops  crowded  with  relics  of 
ancient  times.  It  requires  hours  of  patient  search  to  select 
from  a  mass  of  articles  without  name  or  price  those  that  are 
really  valuable  as  acquisitions.     In  our  endless  wanderings 

iq  289 


Ifn  Bamboo  XanDs, 


through  narrow  streets,  escorted  by  a  crowd  of  all  ages,  we 
saw  at  every  step  curious  scenes  and  interesting  little  customs 
we  should  never  have  heard  of  had  we  been  in  charge  of  a 
guide.  Guides  are  an  indispensable  luxury  at  times,  but  they 
chill  one's  enthusiasm. 

The  houses  are  narrow,  the  shops  occupy  the  whole  front, 
and  they  are  generally  so  close  together  they  touch  each  other. 
The  salesman,  who  sits  in  his  shop  warming  his  hands  over  a 
hibachi  (charcoal-brazier)  and  smoking  his  everlasting-  pipe, 
shows  his  good-will  by  making  the  usual  salutation ;  and  it 
matters  not  whether  the  customer  be  a  large  investor  or  a  tire- 
some creature  who  inquires  the  price  of  every  article  and  buys 
nothing — he  is  equally  courteous  to  all.  The  moment  we  were 
seated  the  crowd  gazed  curiously,  intent  on  finding  out  all  about 
us  and  our  business.  Our  conversation  could  not  have  been 
edifying,  as  it  was  confined  mostly  to  "  Ikura?"  ("  How  much?") 
— a  word  impossible  to  dispense  with  in  the  country,  or  to  dispel 
when  one  leaves  it.  Time  is  of  no  importance  in  Japan  and 
bargaining  at  a  curio-shop  is  no  light  matter,  since  the  shop- 
keepers ask  foreigners  a  price  much  larger  than  the  sum  they 
mean  to  take  or  than  you  mean  to  pay — if  you  understand 
their  methods — for  life  has  taught  them  "  to  truckle  and  trick 
like  the  rest  of  us."  They  appear  to  believe  that  travellers  are 
easily  imposed  upon ;  but  if  the  customer  be  wise  and  feign  in- 
difference, in  nine  cases  out  of  ten  he  will  get  the  article,  re- 
gardless of  the  original  price  demanded.  He  makes  great  use 
of  the  soraban,  an  instrument  enclosing  rows  of  beads  sliding 

on  thick  wires — a  trap  to  catch  the  unwary;  at  the  same  time 

290 


while  preparing-  to  exploit  you,  he  draws  in  his  breath  in  that 
curious  faint  whistle,  to  indicate  that  he  is  a  slave  to  your 
wishes.  My  English  friend  had  given  me  a  list  of  real  an- 
tiques— a  medicine  box,  an  incense  burner,  a  folding  candle- 
stick, an  embroidered  scroll,  several  small  ornaments,  and  a 


BAMBOO  WARE  FOR  SALE. 


Japanese  clock  of  the  kind  in  use  before  they  came  into  contact 
with  time-keepers  of  European  make.  There  are  many 
varieties,  but  all  record  the  moments  without  a  pointer,  rotat- 
ing on  an  axis ;  the  scale  and  figures  are  arranged  in  a  fashion 
resembling  a  Fahrenheit  thermometer  more  than  anything  else, 

the  pointer  or  hand  being  attached  to  a  rod  which  continu- 

291 


IFn  Bamboo  Xanfcs. 


ally  slides  down  the  "time-tube,"  thus  marking  the  hour  and 
the  minutes  as  it  slowly  but  imperceptibly  falls  toward  the 
"weight-house."  We  found  a  bronze  candlestick  so  curiously 
constructed  it  took  months  to  discover  what  it  was  made  for. 
I  was  disappointed  in  not  securing  an  ancient  map  of  Japan, 
like  one  I  had  seen  representing  that  little  empire  as  occupy- 
ing the  centre  and  greater  part  of  the  universe,  with  other 
countries  ranged  about  it  as  vassals.  Japan  is  almost  denuded 
of  real  curios,  and,  though  our  collection  is  still  incomplete, 
the  search  afforded  an  endless,  agreeable,  and  profitable  occu- 
pation. 

The  cars  took  us  to  Otsu  at  the  foot  of  Lake  Biwa,  a  fine 
sheet  of  water  forty-five  miles  long — the  largest  and  prettiest 
of  the  Japanese  lakes.  On  the  north  and  west  sides  it  is 
walled  in  by  mountains  covered  with  forests ;  small  farms  and 
villages  line  the  opposite  shores.  The  lake,  which  is  very  deep 
at  some  points  and  abounds  in  fish,  was  made  still  more  pictu- 
resque by  small  trading-steamers  and  fishing-boats  that  ply  its 
waters.  There  is  a  tradition  that  the  sacred  mountain  of 
Fujiyama  was  formed  in  a  single  night  by  an  earthquake ;  the 
depression  of  Lake  Biwa  was  produced  simultaneously,  and 
the  natives  believe  there  is  still  a  connection  between  the  two. 

Otsu  is  a  flourishing  town,  with  an  unenviable  reputation  as 
the  spot  where  the  attempt  was  made  to  assassinate  the  Czare- 
vitch— now  Czar  Nicholas  II. — during  his  journey  around  the 
world.  He  reached  Kyoto  on  May  9th,  and  two  days  later  his 
party  made  an  excursion  to  the  classic  Lake  Biwa.    They  had 

seen  the  lake  and  paid  a  short  visit  to  the  prefectural  office, 

292 


1k£OtO, 


and  were  prepared  to  see  the  outskirts  of  the  town  in  kurumas. 
The  streets  of  Otsu  were  well  lined  with  police,  and  as  the 
party  rode  along  a  Japanese  guard,  Tsuda  Sanzo,  drew  his 
sword  and  directed  a  powerful  blow  at  the  Czarevitch — inflict- 
ing two  cuts  on  his  forehead.  His  sun  helmet  broke  the  force 
of  the  blow,  and  Prince  George  of  Greece,  his  travelling  com- 
panion, with  admirable  presence  of  mind  felled  the  would-be 
assassin  with  a  stout  walking-stick,  and  threw  himself  on  the 
man  before  he  had  time  to  inflict  another  wound.  With  the 
aid  of  the  police,  the  assailant  was  finally  secured  and  after- 
ward sentenced  to  imprisonment  for  life.  The  most  mysteri- 
ous rumors  gained  currency :  it  was  said  that  Sanzo  was  a  half- 
crazy  fanatic  of  the  Samurai  class,  noted  for  their  hatred  of 
Europeans;  also,  that  he  was  a  Nihilist  belonging  to  Russia 
in  the  Japanese  police  service.  In  any  case,  the  Grand  Duke 
very  luckily  escaped  with  only  two  slight  cuts. 

His  Majesty  and  the  court  went  into  mourning ;  the  Emperor 
travelled  over  two  hundred  miles  to  visit  the  wounded  Prince ; 
the  Empress  kept  her  bed  for  weeks  and  spent  the  time  in 
weeping;  and  placards  announced  that  the  reception  and  ban- 
quet to  be  given  for  the  Czarevitch  were  indefinitely  postponed. 
"  Some  grim  old  Samurai  showed  their  feelings  about  the  occur- 
rence in  a  less  gentle  manner.  The  high  official  intrusted  with 
the  safety  of  the  Czarevitch  at  Otsu  received,  by  express,  a 
fine  sword  and  a  stern  letter  bidding  him  prove  his  manhood 
and  his  regret  like  a  Samurai,  by  performing  harakiri  immedi- 
ately."  The  Prince  shortened  his  stay  in  Japan  and  returned 
to  St.  Petersburg  by  way  of  Siberia,  and  this  portion  of  his 

293 


1fn  Bamboo  Xanfcs. 


travels  is  believed  to  have  had  no  small  influence  on  the  con- 
struction of  the  Trans-Siberian  Railway.  The  zeal  for  West- 
ern civilization  grew  colder  after  that  catastrophe. 

A  short  ride  from  the  station  through  queer  little  streets 
brought  us  to  the  foot  of  the  hill  dedicated  to  the  goddess 
Kwannon.  The  view  from  the  summit  is  so  fine  one  feels 
amply  repaid  for  the  ascent.  We  hailed  the  sight  with  pleas- 
ure ;  the  broad  expanse  of  Lake  Biwa  spread  out  at  our  feet ; 
and  Hiei-zan,  the  priests'  mountain,  towering  high  above  the 
sea  and  the  little  ships,  threw  long  shadows  over  its  surface. 
The  Buddhist  temple  of  Miidera  has  few  ornaments ;  but  its 
storehouses  are  rich  in  priceless  antique  art  of  lacquer,  em- 
broidery, and  brocade. 

Among  the  groves  are  numerous  shrines  well  storied  with 
many  a  thrilling  legend.  One,  in  connection  with  an  enor- 
mous iron  bowl  we  saw  by  the  roadside,  relates  that  the  vessel 
was  once  filled  with  soup  that  an  individual  consumed  and 
thereby  gained  strength  to  carry  it  to  the  top  of  the  sacred 
mountain.  There  seemed  to  be  little  foundation  for  the 
legend,  except  the  reality  of  the  bowl;  but  what  his  object  was 
in  taking  it  up  there,  and  how  it  got  back  again,  did  not  ap- 
pear, and  this  story,  like  others  we  listened  to,  was  a  tissue  of 
nonsense. 

After  coming  down  we  took  kurumas  to  the  village  of 

Karasaki,  famous  for  its  pine-tree,  whose  branches,  supported 

by  a  trellis,  number  four  hundred  and  average  two  hundred 

and  fifty  feet  in  length.    The  trunk  is  carefully  sheltered  from 

rain  by  a  roof  over  the  top,  and  the  decayed  spots  are  filled 

294 


Ikpoto. 


with  plaster.  It  has  the  reputation  of  being-  the  oldest  tree  in 
the  country,  and  has  been  worshipped  for  ages.  It  stands  on 
a  sandy  point  protected  by  stone-faced  embankments,  and, 
like  the  immense  banyan  tree  in  the  gardens  at  Calcutta,  is  re- 
markable for  the  great  area  covered  by  one  plant.  This  is  the 
place  for  picnics;  there  were  benches  under  the  tree,  and  a 
party  of  natives  were  having  their  noonday  repast  under  this 
canopy  of  drooping  boughs.  It  was  too  suggestive,  however, 
of  bygone  festivities  to  suit  us,  and  we  returned  to  Otsu,  the 
kurumayas  having  trotted  there  and  back  without  the  smallest 
sense  of  fatigue. 

We  lunched  at  the  tea-house  of  Minaraitei  on  the  lake. 
The  dining-room,  which  occupied  the  whole  upper  floor,  was 
open  front  and  back,  affording  lovely  views  over  the  water 
and  the  town,  and  was  made  still  more  attractive  by  hanging 
scrolls,  pines,  and  potted  shrubs.  We  enjoyed  greatly  the 
freshly  caught  fish,  that  on  this  occasion  were  cooked  and  not 
eaten  with  chop-sticks. 

After  a  pleasant  hour  there,  we  rode  around  the  south 

shore  to  the  long  bridge  of  Seta.    The  scenery  was  extremely 

pretty — the  lake  glistened  to  the  left,  and  to  the  right  the 

hills,  green  with  coniferae,  sloped  to  the  shore.    A  bridge  has 

existed  there  from  prehistoric  times,  and  the  legend  connected 

with  an  earlier  structure  is  very  characteristic  of  Japanese 

fairy  tales.    The   hero  was  "My  Lord  Bag  o'  Rice,"  who 

had  a  very  remarkable  experience  with  a  sea-serpent  twenty 

feet  long  and  an  exciting  battle  beneath  the  waters  of  the 

lake  with  a  centipede  over  a  mile  in  length,  and  enjoyed 

297 


1Tn  Bamboo  Xanfcs, 


happiness  and  great  wealth  ever  after,  as  a  reward  of  his 
prowess. 

A  short  distance  farther  on  is  the  village  of  Ishiyama-dera 
and  its  temple,  located  on  the  mountain-side.  The  beautify- 
ing of  the  grounds — a  fine  example  of  a  temple  garden — has 
been  the  chief  object  of  the  monks,  and  they  are  lovely. 
Limpid  streams  glide  between  grassy  banks,  rustic  bridges 
span  diminutive  lakes,  shrubs  grow  on  rocks  of  fantastic 
shape,  and  pines  grace  the  lawn.  From  sunny  nooks  and 
spaces  with  clusters  of  shrubs  high  up  among  the  maples,  a 
fair  prospect  expands  before  the  eye  over  garden  and  lake. 

We  returned  to  Kyoto  by  kuruma,  along  the  much-travelled 
Tokaido,  that  runs  through  a  pass  among  the  hills.  Before  our 
advent,  the  wild-flowers  grew  by  the  wayside  unmolested ;  we 
piled  our  little  cabs  high  with  blue,  white,  and  yellow  beauties, 
assisted  by  the  coolies  who  vied  with  each  other  in  scaling 
steep  places  to  gather  specimens  above  our  reach.  The 
Japanese  love  of  nature  does  not  extend  to  these  unassuming 
plants,  and  we  were  delighted  that  our  passports  had  also 
neglected  them.  The  road  was  thronged  with  kurumas,  people 
on  foot,  and  man-carts  loaded  with  merchandise.  These  carts 
are  usually  drawn  by  two  men,  aided  by  two  others  who  push 
from  behind,  all  four  keeping  up  a  hoarse  guttural  cry  to  en- 
courage each  other.  We  also  noticed  several  family  affairs; 
the  man  in  the  shafts,  the  wife  pushing  in  the  rear  with  an  in- 
fant lashed  to  her  back,  other  children  trudging  along  at  the 
side,  all  seeming  to  be  enjoying  themselves.    One  sees  much 

of  industrious  poverty  in  Japan,  where  the  poor  form  the  vast 

298 


majority  of  the  population.  On  again,  gradually  descending, 
we  neared  Kyoto  at  sunset,  riding  through  temple  grounds 
just  as  the  bells  of  Nanzenji  and  Chion-in  rang  out  their  sur- 
passingly sweet  tones  on  the  evening  air. 

There  is  nothing  about  the  exterior  of  the  great  silk-shops 
to  distinguish  them  from  the  dwellings  of  the  poor ;  all  are 
alike  of  wood,  and  unpainted.  We  stopped  before  one  of  these 
unpretentious  buildings,  entered  by  a  small  door,  and  were 
conducted  through  passages  and  anterooms  to  an  apartment 
in  the  rear,  containing  great  cabinets  of  antique  lacquer  filled 
with  art-work  and  tables  loaded  with  rich  silks,  brocades,  vel- 
vets, and  silk  crepes;  satin  screens  superbly  embroidered  in 
gold,  with  designs  of  wild  ducks,  winter  scenes,  sprays  of 
cherry  and  plum  blossoms,  iris-flowers,  the  queenly  rose,  the 
sacred  lotus,  storks  in  flight,  deer  feeding  under  forest  shadows, 
and  symbols  of  good  fortune,  were  an  important  part  of  the 
stock.  The  show-room  opened  upon  a  garden  where,  when 
surfeited  with  art,  we  could  enjoy  nature.  This  small  yard  of 
tidy  flower-beds  and  neatly  kept  paths  was  beautified  by 
quaintly  trimmed  pines  three  or  four  feet  high,  blossoming 
trees,  a  vine-covered  trellis,  the  usual  stone  lantern  and  pool 
of  fish,  and  a  retreat  used  for  tea-drinking,  capable  of  holding 
two  persons  only.  We  dawdled  away  whole  afternoons  in  this 
elegant  interior,  this  home  of  art.  The  proprietor,  in  addition 
to  other  courtesies,  invariably  served  tea  and  little  pleasantries 
of  sweets  and  fruit.  A  gentleman  of  our  party  was  an  en- 
thusiastic buyer,  and  in  one  recklessly  extravagant  session  we 

were  regaled  with  hot  sake,  poured  from  a  fine  bronze  pot. 

299 


In  Bamboo  Xante. 


Hot  sake — a  magical  intoxicant,  an  evil  to  be  avoided !  It  was 
well  for  him  lie  was  temperate,  else  he  might  have  fallen  into 
the  bog  and  purchased  the  entire  stock. 

Embroidery,  with  other  arts,  was  imported  from  China  by 
the  priests ;  but  with  the  Japanese  art  is  an  inspiration,  and 
they  have  invested  their  work  with  their  own  exquisite  taste. 
Curiously  enough,  the  first  noted  artist  in  embroider}'  was  a 
Buddhist  nun,  but  now  all  the  finest  specimens  are  the  work 
of  men  and  boys.  We  were  taken  into  the  work-rooms  and 
shown  pieces,  still  far  from  completed,  upon  which  the  em- 
broiderers had  been  at  work  for  months.  They  receive 
ridiculously  small  pay,  and  it  is  not  surprising  they  lose  their 
sight  early  in  life,  for  the  intricate  patterns  and  delicate 
shading  would  try  the  strongest  eyes. 

The  following  morning  was  one  of  anticipation  and  of  dis- 
appointment. One  of  my  fellow-travellers  took  us  far  out  of 
our  way  to  visit  the  monastery  of  Kenninji,  situated  in  a  park 
that  entends  to  the  left  of  the  town.  When  we  arrived,  we 
alighted  and  were  taken  by  a  priest  through  room  after  room 
containing  nothing  whatever.  After  exhausting  that  form  of 
entertainment,  he  volunteered  the  information  that  a  fair  for 
the  sale  of  old  clothes  would  be  held  there  the  following  day. 
These  monks  have  a  reputation  for  profound  Buddhistic  lore, 
but  there  was  no  religious  sentiment  in  that  remark.  We 
thought  him  something  of  a  practical  joker,  and,  as  we  were 
rather  sensitive  about  our  own  travel-stained  garments,  we 
took  kurumas  and  went  on  our  way. 

The  temple  of  Kodaiji  is  dedicated  to  Hideyoshi,  who  be- 

300 


gan  life  as  a  peasant,  rose  by  his  talents  to  a  position  of  influ- 
ence, and  became  practically  ruler  of  Japan  under  the  title  of 
Regent.  His  ambition  was  to  become  Emperor  of  the  whole 
East.  He  sent  armies  to  Korea  in  1 542  and  ruined  that  country ; 
he  also  planned  the  conquest  of  China,  but  death  overtook 
him  in  1598,  and  his  enterprise  came  to  naught.  He  is  known 
as  the  Napoleon  of  Japan.  His  infant  son  Hideyori  succeeded 
him,  but  was  overpowered  by  Ieyasu,  who  founded  the  Toku- 
gawa  dynasty  of  Shoguns,  that  remained  in  power  until  1868. 

The  greater  number  of  the  buildings  have  been  destroyed 
by  fire,  but  the  grounds  that  extend  up  the  terraced  hillside  are 
shaded  by  ancient  oaks  and  elms  and  very  beautiful.  The 
place  is  full  of  absorbing  interest  in  connection  with  Hideyoshi. 
The  apartments  contain  some  famous  gold  screens  and  other 
antiques;  Founder's  Hall  has  panels  painted  by  illustrious 
artists  of  the  Kano  school ;  in  the  mortuary  chapel  is  a  figure 
of  Hideyoshi  seated  in  a  shrine  of  rich  black  lacquer,  and  they 
still  point  out  the  spot  where  he  used  to  sit  and  gaze  at  the 
moon.  There  are  many  beautiful  carved  and  lacquered  relics 
and  old  bronzes  worthy  of  careful  examination,  but  we  had  been 
taken  by  storm.  An  acolyte  of  the  mature  age  of  seven  met 
us  at  the  gate,  and  engrossed  our  whole  attention.  He  at  once 
began  shouting,  in  high,  shrill  tones,  Japanese  words  that  we 
did  not  understand,  but  which  we  supposed  to  be  an  explana- 
tion of  the  place  and  its  contents.  Our  sense  of  the  comic  was 
too  great,  and  at  first  we  felt  inclined  to  laugh  at  the  serious 
expression  on  the  boy's  face;  but  while  we  rambled  about  and 

looked  at  everything,  he  clung  to  us  persistently.    We  cried 

301 


1Fn  Bamboo  Xan&s, 


"Leave  us  in  peace!"  beat  the  floor  with  sticks,  studied  the 
guide-book,  and  essayed  by  every  means  in  our  power  to  rid 
ourselves  of  the  chattering  magpie,  but  made  no  more  impres- 
sion on  that  aspiring  spirit  than  on  the  bronze  images  of  the 
altar.  At  last,  there  came  into  my  head  one  of  those  bright 
ideas  that  occasionally  assail  the  dullest  mind,  and  I  handed 
him  a  fee.  A  fatal  error — it  but  encouraged  him  to  greater 
efforts !  He  had  the  precocious  air  of  an  embryo  actor  recit- 
ing one  of  those  long-drawn-out  dramas  that  begin  in  the 
morning  and  last  until  midnight.  We  had  stirred  up  a  hornet's 
nest — to  silence  him  was  impossible,  and  to  escape  being  talked 
to  death  we  abandoned  the  spot. 

From  the  noisy  experience  at  Kodaiji,  we  found  refuge  in 
the  quiet  elegance  of  Ikedas'  shop,  where  the  finest  specimens 
of  cloisonne,  satsuma,  damascene,  bronze,  and  lacquer  are  dis- 
played. A  cabinet  valued  at  ten  thousand  dollars,  decorated 
with  gold  and  richly  lacquered,  was  but  one  of  the  many  gems 
of  art  in  the  collection.  The  articles  were  arranged  on  tables 
and  shelves,  with  ample  space  for  examination.  We  wondered, 
admired,  and  enjoyed.  Japan,  even  in  her  art,  offers  us  that 
which  we  most  desire  in  travel — novelty ;  and  there  is  nothing 
to  offend  the  eye.  The  race  has  too  much  good  sense  and  in- 
nate refinement  to  daub  their  art-work  and  fill  public  prints 
with  representations  of  the  nude  female  form. 

To  still  further  gratify  our  curiosity,  the  owner  kindly  in- 
vited us  to  visit  the  factory  in  an  adjoining  building.  For 
making  damascene,  the  iron  is  first  cast  in  the  required  shape ; 

the  surface  is  then  roughened  with  hammer  and  chisel ;  then 

302 


Ikpoto. 


bits  of  gold  and  silver  are  hammered  in  in  patterns ;  and,  lastly, 
the  piece  is  lacquered  and  fired.  The  process  of  making- 
cloisonne  is  equally  interesting.  The  article  is  first  ham- 
mered into  symmetry  out  of  copper ;  the  design  is  drawn  on  it 
with  ink ;  then  a  network  of  brass  is  soldered  on  to  the  metal 
foundation  and  the  interstices  filled  with  enamel  paste  in  vari- 
ous colors,  to  be  finally  subjected  to  baking,  rubbing,  and 
polishing  until  the  surface  is  perfectly  hard  and  smooth.  The 
process  is  so  extremely  delicate  that  often  many  specimens  are 
destroyed  before  a  flawless  one  is  produced.  Each  separate 
part  of  the  work  is  done  by  one  artist,  who  knows  nothing  of 
other  parts.  Their  skill  excels  in  the  minuteness  of  detail, 
and  it  is  surprising  what  artistic  effects  they  produce  with  the 
simplest  of  instruments. 

Except  for  the  ascent  of  Fujiyama,  our  next  excursion  to 
the  rapids  of  the  Katsuragawa  was  the  most  adventurous  we 
made  in  Japan.  The  weather  still  favored  us,  and  the  ride  of 
fifteen  miles  by  kurumas  with  two  men  each  across  the  moun- 
tain range  to  Hozu,  where  we  took  boats,  was  delightful. 
The  scenery  in  these  mountains  is  exceedingly  lovely,  and  there 
can  be  few  places  where  nature  has  so  lavishly  scattered  her 
choicest  treasures.  The  beeches  and  maples  were  magnificent ; 
a  stream  wound  tortuously  through  a  rocky  ravine;  the 
breezes  were  spicy  with  delicate  perfume ;  the  faint  blue  of  the 
autumn  sky  shone  through  the  trees.  The  graceful  drooping 
cherry-colored  berries  of  the  nightshade  and  the  delicate 
maidenhair  fern  grew  in  profusion ;  wild  asters  with  lavender- 
purple  rays  and  yellow  centres,  the  crimson-magenta  clusters 
20  305 


of  the  iron-weed,  the  small  blue  flowers  of  the  modest  self- 
heal,  and  wild  chrysanthemums  and  other  late  varieties 
blossomed  there  in  sunny  spots. 

We  stopped  at  a  small  village  to  allow  the  coolies  a  short 
rest  and  breathing-spell  on  their  long  uphill  journey.  Every 
house  was  a  shop,  and  the  mystery  was  where  the  buyers  came 
from,  for,  with  the  exception  of  our  kurumayas,  I  saw  no 
purchasers.  In  some,  all  kinds  of  food  were  displayed — fish, 
rice,  beans,  and  seaweed  predominating;  in  others  hats,  rain- 
coats, and  sandals  of  straw,  and  many  small  articles  of  bamboo 
and  lacquer  were  for  sale.  We  could  see  the  domestic  arrange- 
ments and  everything  else  that  was  going  on  inside ;  and  the 
small  garden  in  the  rear  made  a  pleasing  background  to  the 
quaint  picture.  The  shopkeeper  was  smoking  at  ease  among 
his  wares,  a  young  woman  was  seated  with  her  hair-dresser 
busy  at  work,  others  were  sewing  or  cooking — they  understand 
cooking  rice  to  perfection — and  in  one  little  home  the  family 
were  at  dinner,  each  with  his  separate  table  a  foot  square  and 
a  foot  high.  The  table  and  the  little  bowls  for  rice,  soup,  fish, 
and  other  food  were  all  lacquered.  The  natives  seemed  to 
have  plenty  of  leisure  and  always  suspended  work  the  moment 
we  appeared  at  the  door,  eyeing  us  with  quite  as  much  curiosity 
as  we  did  them.  The  packhorses  we  met  on  the  way  were 
the  most  hopelessly  depressed  looking  creatures  imaginable, 
burdened  with  curiously  shaped  cargoes,  so  huge  that  little  of 
the  unfortunate  animals  was  visible  except  the  head  and  legs. 
Charms  are  tied  about  their  necks,  they  are  shod  with  straw 

sandals  to  protect  the  feet  on  stony  roads,  and  are  charged  with 

306 


Ikpoto. 


having-  some  spirit — but  how  can  they  display  it,  when  loaded 
until  they  look  like  hay  mounds  on  four  legs?  After  a  life  of 
toil  comes  the  reward:  they  are  buried  like  human  beings  in 
cemeteries  devoted  to  them.    The  leader  had  the  same  stolid 


A  FAMILY  DINNER-PARTY. 


resignation  reflected  in  his  face  as  he  trudged  along,  leading  his 
quadruped  by  a  rope. 

Arrived  at  Hozu  we  embarked  in  flat-bottomed  boats  twenty 
feet  long,  kurumas,  coolies,  and  all,  for  the  ride  down-stream 
of  fifteen  miles.  There  are  twenty-two  rapids,  and  the  descent 
usually  takes  about  two  hours.  The  walls  of  the  canyon 
through  which  the  clear  rushing  stream  has  cut  its  way  are  al- 

307 


ITn  bamboo  Xanfcs* 


most  vertical  and  wooded  to  their  summits.  The  river  imme- 
diately enters  this  magnificent  mountain  gorge,  the  excitement 
begins,  and  the  tourist  has  an  opportunity  for  testing  his  nerve. 
In  the  savage  grandeur  of  the  scenery,  the  water  rushing  in 
whitening  foam  over  the  rocky  bed  of  the  torrent,  and  the  fleet 
and  boisterous  frolic  there  was  infinite  exhilaration.  So 
closely  do  the  mountains  hem  in  the  stream  that,  on  looking 
up,  it  seemed  as  if  there  were  no  outlet  to  the  place,  and  at 
several  abrupt  turns  around  jutting  crags  as  if  nothing  could 
prevent  one's  being  dashed  to  pieces  on  huge  boulders.  The 
echoes,  as  if  the  angry  spirits  of  the  mountains  were  let  loose, 
were  sublime.  It  requires  consummate  skill,  practice,  and  cool- 
ness to  manage  a  craft  in  that  raging  torrent,  which  whirled 
the  boat  swiftly  downward  until  we  emerged  from  the  gorge, 
gliding  peacefully  into  still  water,  and  our  landing-place  came 
into  view.  On  the  way  down  we  met  boatmen  towing  their 
skiffs  laboriously  up-stream.  In  the  charming  village  of 
Arashiyama  we  picnicked  on  a  balcony  that  overlooks  the  river, 
and  returned  to  Kyoto,  but  not  until  the  long  shadows  of  the 
trees  warned  us  that  it  was  time  to  leave.  I  should  have 
liked  to  detain  each  hour  as  it  passed. 

The  next  morning  came  sad  news  of  the  death  of  two  Eng- 
lish friends,  who  went  down  in  an  ill-fated  steamer  of  the  Pe- 
ninsular and  Oriental  line,  in  a  typhoon  off  the  Chinese  coast. 

Outside  the  present  city  limits,  toward  the  northwest,  is  a 

collection  of  temples  and  gardens  of  more  or  less  interest. 

The  temple  of  Kitano  Tenjin  is  a  good  specimen  of  the  result 

of  mixing  the  two  religions;  the  devout  may  there  worship 

308 


their  Shinto  deities  in  company  with  the  pompons  ritual  pre- 
scribed by  Buddhism.  The  temple  is  finely  located  on  high 
ground,  the  approach  is  by  a  massive  stone  torii,  but  the  dec- 
orations are  coarse  and  cheap,  the  altar  is  littered  with  idols, 
the  avenue  is  lined  with  restaurants  and  show-places,  and  the 
whole  effect  is  irreligious  and  uninteresting.  It  was  pitiful, 
absolutely  pitiful. 

We  hastened  on  to  Kinkakuji,  so  called  from  the  golden 
pavilion  in  the  grounds.  A  palace  was  erected  there  by  the 
ex-Shogun  Yoshimitsu  as  long  ago  as  1397,  but  nothing  now 
remains  of  it.  He  laid  out  the  ornamental  garden  after  Japa- 
nese style  and  built  the  pavilion  of  three  stories  on  the  lake.  In 
its  prime  there  were  fine  paintings  by  a  Kano  on  the  ceiling ; 
the  upper  story  was  entirely  encrusted  with  gold-leaf  and  the 
roof  crowned  by  a  golden  phoenix  three  feet  high.  The  effect 
must  have  been  gorgeous  in  the  extreme,  and  even  now,  tar- 
nished and  time-beaten,  it  is  a  pretty  and  peaceful  retreat. 
Here  the  ex-Shogun  with  shaved  head  and  priestly  robes  used 
to  sit  and  meditate,  while  enjoying  the  pretty  sheet  of  water 
covered  with  lotus-plants  and  swarming  with  carp.  As  we 
stood  on  the  balcony,  these  silent  inmates  of  the  pool  with  bril- 
liant scales  and  quick  sense  heard  our  voices  and  darted  up  to 
be  fed.  The  intricate  art  of  gardening  is  there  seen  to  perfec- 
tion— forest  trees  and  flowering  shrubs,  streams,  rockeries, 
bridges,  woodland  paths,  summer-houses  perched  on  knolls, 
and  a  "moon-gazing  arbor" — favorite  haunts  of  Yoshimitsu, 
the  very  "serenity  of  solitude."  We  visited  the  apart- 
ments, where  everything  about  us  was  ancient.    The  screens, 

311 


IFn  Bamboo  Xanfcs, 


panels,  and  kakemonos  three  hundred  years  old  were  in  a  fine 
state  of  preservation  and  exquisite  specimens  of  the  art-work 
of  Old  Japan.  In  the  courtyard  was  a  curiosity:  a  large  pine- 
tree  has  been  trained  in  the  form  of  a  junk  and  gives  an  ex 
cellent  representation.  We  failed  to  learn  its  age,  hut  a  priest 
informed  us  that  it  had  been  growing  there  for  centuries.  I 
bought  a  tempo,  a  large  oblong  bronze  coin  with  a  hole  in  the 
centre,  intended  to  be  strung  on  a  string  for  convenience  in 
handling.  They  were  coined  during  the  period  a.d.  1830-1844, 
are  worth  eight  rin,  and  are  not  now  produced.  The  priests 
offered  tea,  which  we  accepted  without  waiting  for  the  elaborate 
ceremony,  as  time  was  limited,  and  we  had  yet,  while  in  the 
vicinity,  to  visit  another  historic  spot. 

We  sped  until  we  came  to  Daitokuji,  once  a  magnificent 
temple  of  the  Zen  sect  of  Buddhists.  It  is  a  stately  old  build- 
ing standing  in  solitary  grandeur,  with  a  distinct  individuality 
in  the  religious  atmosphere  which  surrounds  it.  It  was  quite 
enough  to  sit  in  the  ancient  temple,  to  breathe  the  air  of  the 
venerable  place,  full  of  repose  to  those  who  can  receive  its  in- 
fluences. The  carvings  on  the  gateways  and  the  interior  are 
wonderful,  and  its  treasures  of  damask,  embroidery,  and  lacquer 
are  renowned  for  richness  and  beauty,  and  unsurpassed  by  any 
other  productions  of  human  skill.  In  the  apartments,  painters 
of  the  best  school  spent  years  in  decorating  the  walls,  panels, 
and  screens  according  to  antique  custom.  In  one  instance,  the 
artist  has  chosen  beautiful  Chinese  scenery  and  delineated  it 
with  accuracy.     A  very  spirited  picture  occupies  an  entire 

wall;  the  subject  is  simple  but  broad,  clear,  and  toned  har- 

312 


IRpoto. 


moniously.  It  represents  a  man  teaching  a  monkey  to  dance. 
On  leaving  the  temple  we  climbed  to  the  hilltop,  where  stands 
a  shrine  dedicated  to  Nobtmaga,  a  deified  warrior  of  the  six- 
teenth century,  and  had  views  far  and  wide  of  miles  of  sur- 
rounding country.  We  stood  on  the  heights  that  encircled  the 
rich  and  fertile  plain,  a  beautiful  spot  some  miles  outside  the 
present  city  limits.  The  scene  was  one  of  incomparable  love- 
liness, an  ideal  sunset  picture  of  wooded  hills  and  browning 
meadows. 

Not  content  with  the  long  day  of  sight-seeing,  we  turned 
aside  to  watch  some  peasants  thatching  the  deep  slanting  roof 
of  a  farmhouse.  The  straw  was  laid  on  three  feet  thick,  and 
secured  in  place  by  bamboo  poles  placed  lengthwise  across  the 
beams.  One  often  sees  heavy  stones  placed  on  the  roofs  to 
keep  them  secure  in  high  winds.  Thatched  roofs  have  in  re- 
cent years  given  place  to  tiled  ones  in  cities,  and  fires  are  now 
much  less  destructive. 

Our  permit  to  visit  the  palaces  included  the  Imperial  garden 
of  Shugaku-in,  lying  at  the  base  of  Hiei-zan.  We  flew  through 
miles  of  streets  and  out  among  the  fields  where  the  paths  were 
only  as  wide  as  a  kuruma,  alighted  at  the  gate,  and  were 
escorted  by  a  lay  brother  through  the  spacious  grounds  finely 
situated  on  the  mountain  slope,  and  planted  with  grand  old 
cherry  and  maple  trees.  One  section,  exquisitely  laid  out,  is 
a  faithful  reflection  of  a  landscape  and  a  charming  example  of 
horticultural  art.  We  saw  in  a  small  building  many  valuable 
relics  of  the  founder,  a  Mikado  who  lived  in  the  seventeenth 
century.     It  was  one  of  those  perfect  days  that  we  were  so 

3*5 


1Tn  Bamboo  Xanfcs, 


marvellously  favored  with,  warm  and  bright,  much  like  our 
Indian  summer,  and  the  walk  of  two  miles  around  the  grounds 
would  have  been  one  of  unalloyed  enjoyment,  had  not  the  place 
been  infested  with  evil  things.  Snakes  are  protected  with 
superstitious  reverence,  and  to  kill  one  is  very  wrong.  I  never 
saw  so  many  outside  a  museum ;  they  wriggled  through  the 
grass,  sprawled  on  the  roadway,  and  basked  in  the  sunshine  on 
the  finely  gravelled  walks.  Serpents  four  feet  long,  even 
though  they  be  harmless,  are  not  agreeable  companions  for  an 
afternoon  stroll.  Our  purely  Oriental  escort  ignored  alike  the 
revolting  reptiles  and  our  abhorrence  of  them. 

On  our  way  to  Ginkakuji  we  had  a  fine  opportunity  to  see 
more  of  farm  life  as  we  rode  among  the  grain-fields.  The 
houses  of  the  peasants  are  small  and  include  under  one  broad 
overhanging  roof  both  dwelling  and  barn.  Much  of  the  charm 
of  rural  life  in  our  country  is  absent  in  Japan.  As  the  people 
use  neither  milk  nor  meat,  cattle,  sheep,  and  swine  are  not 
seen,  and  the  farmyards  look  singularly  silent  and  deserted. 
The  only  representations  of  animal  life  are  fowls,  dogs,  and 
cats  with  short  stumpy  tails,  a  freak  of  nature ;  the  bones  are 
all  there,  but  not  normally  developed.  A  strong  prejudice  ex- 
ists against  the  long-tailed  species,  as  they  are  supposed  to 
have  power  to  bewitch  beings,  and  if  one  chances  to  be  born 
the  appendage  is  chopped  off  without  ceremony. 

The  methods  of  agriculture  are  primitive.    The  soil  is 

spaded  by  men  and  women  with  simple  instruments ;  hoes  and 

mattocks  are  used  for  gardening,  and  short,  straight  knives  for 

reaping.    The  fields  are  cultivated  to  the  highest  point,  and, 

316 


A  FARMER. 


1k\?oto. 


with  constant  enriching,  will  produce  as  many  as  three  crops 
annually.  The  town  scavengers  collect  the  sewage  and  refuse 
of  every  house  daily  and  sell  it  to  the  farmers,  who  preserve  it 
in  large  tubs  sunk  into  the  ground  until  needed,  when  it  is 
taken  in  wooden  pails  and  distributed  about  the  fields. 

The  peasants  wear  the  usual  shirt  and  short  breeches  of 
blue  cotton,  a  bowl-shaped  hat  as  large  as  an  umbrella,  and  a 
fan  stuck  in  the  girdle.  In  wet  weather  they  don  a  straw  rain- 
coat in  two  parts, — the  upper  cape  tied  about  the  neck,  and  the 
lower  one  fastened  around  the  waist, — and  wooden  clogs  four 
inches  high  held  in  position  by  a  looped  thong  which  passes 
between  the  first  and  second  toes,  to  keep  them  out  of  the 
mire.  As  the  average  Japanese  man  is  only  five  feet  two 
inches  in  height,  and  the  women  are  but  five  feet  or  less,  these 
stilts  are  rather  becoming.  But  fancy  Europeans  stalking 
about  on  them ;  they  would  look  like  a  race  of  giants !  Along 
the  road,  as  we  progressed,  the  path  became  narrow  and  rough ; 
there  were  many  places  over  which  a  wheeled  vehicle  could 
not  pass,  and  we  had  to  pick  our  way  over  the  uneven  ground 
and  wet  places,  while  the  coolies  carried  the  little  gigs. 

Arrived  at  the  hamlet  of  Jodoji-mura,  we  walked  up  the 
single  street  to  Ginkakuji,  one  of  the  most  noted  places  in  the 
history  of  Kyoto.  Here  the  Shogun  Yoshimasa,  after  his 
abdication  in  1497,  laid  out  a  fine  garden  with  a  charming  back- 
ground of  wooded  hills  and  built  for  himself  a  palace  and  silver 
pavilion.  The  apartments  are  dingy  with  age,  but  some  good 
specimens  of  high  art  remain,  among  which  is  a  painted  figure 
of  Yoshimasa,  clad  in  the  garb  of  a  Buddhist  priest.  The 

319 


1Tn  Bamboo  Xante. 


clean,  well-tended  garden,  full  of  interesting  spots  connected 
with  his  life,  is  a  place  of  melancholy  sweetness  and  repose. 
Trees,  lakes,  bridges  and  rocks — all  are  distinguished  by  names 
that  incited  quite  a  frolic  among  our  party,  as  we  stepped  on 
the  "  Stone  of  Ecstatic  Contemplation,"  or  stood  on  the  "  Bridge 
of  the  Pillar  of  the  Immortals"  and  gazed  into  the  "  Moon- 
Washing  Fountain."  Here  the  ex-Shogun  with  his  favorites 
spent  the  last  years  of  his  life  in  great  luxury,  lavishing  vast 
sums  on  the  refined  pleasures  connected  with  the  cha-no-yu 
(tea  ceremonies). 

These  ceremonies,  peculiar  to  Japan,  which  date  from  the 
thirteenth  century,  had  first  a  religious,  then  a  luxurious,  and 
lastly  an  esthetic  stage.  The  main  feature  of  the  religious 
stage  was  the  Buddhist  service,  in  addition  to  a  simple  dinner 
at  which  tea  was  served  in  place  of  wine.  During  the  next 
century  the  luxurious  stage  was  reached,  although  it  still  re- 
tained some  of  its  religious  character,  from  the  Buddhist  pic- 
tures of  saints  and  scrolls  that  adorned  the  spacious  rooms 
where  the  entertainments  were  given.  The  walls  were  hung 
with  rich  brocades  and  embroidered  silks,  gold  and  silver 
vessels  were  used,  costly  perfumes  were  burned,  and  the  rarest 
and  most  expensive  food  was  consumed.  The  daimyos  re- 
clined on  divans,  covered  by  tiger  and  leopard  skins,  while 
singing  and  dancing  girls  entertained  the  company.  Brands 
of  tea  were  brought  in  to  be  tested,  and  the  point  of  the  feast 
consisted  in  guessing  what  plantation  produced  the  materials 
of  each  cup  of  tea.    The  guest  who  conjectured  rightly  was 

rewarded  by  a  gift  of  one  of  the  many  beautiful  ornaments  of 

320 


the  room.  Tea-drinking-  became  a  high  art,  vast  sums  were 
squandered,  and  it  gained  such  popularity  among  the  higher 
classes  and  was  carried  to  such  an  extent  that  renowned  war- 
riors neglected  their  swords  for  the  teapot  or  died  cup  in  hand 
while  their  castles  were  being  surrendered  to  the  enemy. 
Schools  of  tea-drinking  were  formed,  and  rules  made  that  pre- 
scribed the  size  of  the  room  and  its  decorations,  the  tea  service, 
and  all  the  minor  details.  Time  and  change  have  reduced  it 
to  a  simple  esthetic  service,  and  in  this  stage  we  took  part  in 
the  ceremony  in  a  small  room  of  four  and  one-half  mats  in  the 
old  palace.  The  ornaments  of  the  tea-room  were  a  kakemona, 
an  incense  burner,  and  a  vase  of  flowers  in  the  alcove.  The 
beverage  is  made  of  powdered  leaves,  is  greenish  in  color,  thick 
like  pea-soup,  fragrant,  and  not  very  palatable.  We  much  pre- 
ferred the  ordinary  infusion.  "  It  was  served  on  gold  lacquer 
trays  in  ancient  kaga  cups  without  handles.  The  etiquette 
of  tea-drinking  is  peculiar.  Seated  on  our  heels  in  a  circle, 
with  a  priest  to  conduct  the  ceremony,  we  watched  his  actions 
and  followed  his  example,  holding  the  cup  with  both  hands  as 
we  consumed  the  contents.  I  should  like  a  representation  of 
that  scene.  The  tea  ceremony  is  refined  in  every  detail,  but 
complicated  in  its  forms,  and  repeated  trials  grow  to  be  a  bore 
and  a  nuisance.  The  general  use  of  tea  is  a  great  blessing-  to 
the  country,  as  it  largely  supplants  the  intoxicating  sake,  al- 
though I  strongly  suspect  they  refrain  from  the  latter  not  from 
principle  but  from  poverty. 

There  is  a  school  in  the  city  where  the  geishas  are  taught 

playing,  singing,  dancing,  writing,  and  embroidery.    They  are 
21  321 


Un  ^Bamboo  Xanfcs. 

a  class  by  themselves  and  are  apprenticed  to  their  employer 
at  an  early  age,  frequently  as  young  as  seven  years.  They 
are  supposed  to  have  greater  personal  attractions  than  girls  less 
favored  by  nature,  but  I  saw  very  few  handsome  ones — for  in 

Japan  as  elsewhere  beauty  is 
not  universal — and  they  were  dis- 
figured with  powder  and  rouge, 
exceeding  even  their  country- 
women themselves. 

The  school  occupies  a  build- 
ing that  encloses  a  courtyard 
planted  with  shrubs  and  chrys- 
anthemums. We  were  first 
shown  into  a  room  where  a 
dancing-lesson  was  in  progress. 
The  teacher,  a  retired  geisha, 
was  seated  on  the  floor  playing 
a  samisen  with  a  strip  of  ivory; 
and  in  front,  on  a  raised  plat- 
form, her  pupil,  with  a  trace  of 
coquetry,  postured,  grimaced, 
rolled  her  eyes,  and  twirled  her  fan  in  exact  imitation  of  the 
elder;  neither  of  them  appeared  in  the  least  disturbed  by  the 
presence  of  half  a  score  of  foreigners.  We  were  taken  into 
room  after  room,  where  we  saw  young  girls  receiving  instruc- 
tion in  different  branches  of  education.  The  choicest  bit  was 
reserved  until  the  last ;  we  were  ushered  into  a  hall  where  a 

number  of  pupils,  each  with  a  samisen,  were  singing  and  play- 

322 


ing,  and  the  unearthly  discords  produced  by  their  enthusiastic 
efforts  were  excruciating-.  It  was  a  competition  between  time 
and  tune  of  twelve  kinds,  not  much  to  the  credit  of  Japanese 
musical  taste.  The  race  is  not  physically  incapacitated  for 
singing — it  merely  lacks  knowledge  of  music  as  an  art.  Hav- 
ing no  sweet  song-birds,  they  imitate  the  shrill  screech  of  the 
hawk  or  kite  and  the  melancholy  cries  of  sea-fowl  with  admi- 
rable success.  The  offer  of  a  performance  by  finished  pupils 
was  gratefully  declined;  the  nervous  system  could  endure  no 
more,  and  we  sought  the  street  to  relieve  our  distracted  senses. 

A  long  avenue  of  grain-fields  on  one  side  and  pleasure  re- 
sorts on  the  other  leads  to  the  temple  of  Nanzenji.  While 
walking  up  this  thoroughfare  one  afternoon,  intent  on  our 
guide-book,  we  were  overtaken  and  accosted  by  a  party  of 
Japanese  students  in  European  attire.  One  of  the  lads  pointed 
to  the  open  page,  and  we  handed  him  the  book.  He  read  a 
few  words  with  difficulty,  but  when  questioned  talked  lamely 
and  was  unable  to  understand  us.  Obviously  they  considered 
it  all  a  huge  joke,  and  lingered  near  us,  laughing  and  gesticu- 
lating, until  we  reached  the  temple,  where  they  left  us — to  our 
immense  relief.  They  belonged  to  the  new  generation,  and  we 
were  shocked  at  their  brusqueness  of  manner.  They  had  dis- 
carded their  national  politeness  with  their  national  dress.  The 
Japanese  have  had  one  undeviating  standard  set  before  them 
for  generations,  from  the  Mikado  down  to  the  lowest  coolie, 
until  they  excel  all  nations  in  the  art  of  politeness.  Until  this 
importation  of  explosive  civilization  of  the  West  stirred  them 
up,  one  century  was  made  the  pattern  for  the  next.    For  ages 

323 


An  Bamboo  Xanfcs* 


Japan  has  worn  a  dress  borrowed  from  China,  and  now  she 
casts  that  aside  for  the  stiff  European.  During  the  last  ten 
years,  the  taste  of  the  people  for  foreign  furniture,  furbelows, 
and  food  has  greatly  increased  the  cost  of  living.  Native  do- 
mestic economy  is  reduced  to  a  minimum,  and  a  young  couple 
can  begin  housekeeping  with  a  few  cotton  quilts,  two  kneeling- 
cushions  or  mats,  a  wooden  rice-bucket  and  ladle,  a  wash-bowl, 
a  few  towels,  an  iron  kettle,  a  charcoal-burner,  a  tray  or  two, 
a  teapot,  two  lacquered  rice-bowls,  a  few  china  cups,  and  a 
bamboo  switch  for  sweeping — all  costing  about  seven  dollars. 

Happily  rid  of  these  hilarious  young  fellows,  we  entered 
the  temple,  at  one  time  the  residence  of  an  ex-Mikado  and 
since  converted  into  a  monastery.  The  main  temple,  built  by 
Ieyasu,  has  a  floor  of  dark  blue  tiles  and  a  rich  altar  of  red  and 
black  lacquer  adorned  witth  handsome  gold  images.  The 
walls  and  pillars  are  of  plain  wood,  in  striking  contrast  to  the 
richness  of  decoration.  The  large  two-storied  gateway  is 
highly  ornate,  and  the  upper  room  contains  two  black-lacquered 
shrines,  in  which  are  preserved  images  of  Ieyasu  and  Takatora 
its  builder.  An  aqueduct,  that  serves  to  convey  the  waters  of 
Lake  Biwa  to  Ky5t6,  crosses  the  grounds.  Its  red-brick  arches 
make  a  pleasing  contrast  with  the  greens  of  trees  and  shrubs, 
and  add  greatly  to  the  picturesqueness  of  the  place. 

Paper  is  one  of  the  chief  products  of  Japan;  the  mulberry 
tree  not  only  affords  food  for  the  silkworm,  but  produces  a 
fibre  from  which  the  article  is  made  that  is  remarkable  for 
toughness  and  elasticity.  Over  fifty  kinds  of  paper  are  manu- 
factured ;  the  consumption  is  enormous,  and  the  uses  to  which 

324 


it  is  put  are  infinite.  It  is  used  for  windows  instead  of  glass, 
for  fans,  handkerchiefs,  lanterns,  cordage,  and  many  ornamen- 
tal articles,  while  oiled  paper  replaces  India  rubber  and  oilcloth 
for  carriage-covering,  rain-coats,  umbrellas,  and  tobacco- 
pouches.  One  street  in  Kyoto  is  entirely  devoted  to  shops  in 
which  paper  alone  is  sold.  Writing-paper  is  put  up  in  rolls ; 
we  purchased  a  packet  of  envelopes  for  one  sen  and  writing- 
paper  in  ten  feet  rolls  for  five  sen ;  but  it  proved  unsatisfactory 
for  correspondence,  as  the  fibre  is  very  porous  and  the  ink 
spread  all  over  the  page.  Its  being  absorbent  does  not  signify 
with  the  Japanese,  who  write  with  a  paint-brush  and  India  ink, 
and  tear  off  the  written  portion  when  the  yard  or  more  of  letter 
is  finished. 

In  velvet  and  silk  weaving  the  Japanese  still  cling  to  the 
old-fashioned  hand-looms  operated  by  two  persons.  Upon  en- 
tering a  factory  the  visitor  is  greeted  with  the  incessant  crash, 
crash  as  the  wooden  parts  come  together.  We  wenf  into  one 
where  twenty-five  looms  operated  by  foot-power  were  working 
at  high  speed.  We  also  saw  the  process  of  boiling  and  dye- 
ing in  a  great  variety  of  colors.  The  cleansed  silk  was  dipped 
into  hot  dye,  and  wrung  out  by  placing  a  bamboo  stick  through 
the  skein  and  twisting  it  tightly.  The  dooryard  was  rendered 
conspicuous  with  long  pieces  of  silk  of  every  shade  stretched 
between  bamboo  poles  to  dry  in  the  sun.  More  than  one  visit 
was  made  to  these  factories  of  hand-loom  weavers,  particularly 
those  in  which  the  beautiful  velvets  are  manufactured.  Fine 
brass  wires  are  woven  under  the  nap,  and  the  pattern  is 
painted  on  before  the  wires  are  drawn  out  for  uncut  velvet,  or 

325 


IFn  bamboo  Xanfcs* 

cut  out  for  cut  velvet.  The  process  requires  infinite  labor  and 
patience.  In  every  case  the  head  man  received  us  with  great 
politeness,  and  after  leading  us  through  the  building  he  in- 


A  HAND-LOOM. 

vited  us  into  the  faultless  little  garden  at  the  rear,  where  tea 

and  sweets  were  served.    To  relieve  the  pressure  of  obligation, 

we  invariably  purchased  some  of  his  beautiful  productions. 

Tea,  silk,  and  rice  are  the  three  great  products  of  Japan. 

326 


Ikpoto, 


There  are  frequently  serious  failures  in  the  latter  crop,  and  the 
Government  is  forced  to  purchase  largely  from  other  countries, 
selling  it  to  the  people  at  cost.  The  success  of  the  rice-crop 
being  so  important,  Inari, — the  goddess  of  rice,  in  the  form  of 
a  fox — is  a  very  popular  deity,  as  is  Daikoku,  the  smiling  god 
of  wealth,  who  is  represented  seated  on  bales  of  rice.  After 
the  rice-planting  is  over,  two  days  and  the  intervening  night 
are  devoted  to  merry-making  in  the  temples  dedicated  to  Inari 
throughout  the  kingdom.  On  the  outskirts  of  Kyoto  stands 
one  of  the  most  famous  temples  of  the  rice-god.  Various 
superstitions  are  connected  with  it,  and  one  legend  forms  the 
motive  of  a  No  drama. 

We  had  arranged  to  visit  Inari  on  a  certain  day  in  the 
month  when  pilgrims  make  the  "  Circuit  of  the  Mountain  Hol- 
lows," and,  arrived  there,  we  found  the  temple  and  grounds 
thronged  with  worshippers.  A  great  red  Shinto  torii  stands 
before  the  entrance,  and  at  the  summit  of  the  steps,  on  either 
side,  is  a  stone  fox  on  a  pedestal,  before  which  pious  mortals 
had  placed  offerings  of  rice  to  propitiate  the  gods.  Flights  of 
steps  lead  up  to  the  great  courtyard  with  its  rows  of  lanterns, 
moss-grown  with  age.  Shinto  mirrors,  eighteen  inches  in 
diameter,  hang  from  the  eaves  of  the  main  chapel.  Not  a  sign 
of  Buddhism  was  to  be  seen,  and  it  was  a  relief  to  find,  occa- 
sionally, a  shrine  of  the  old  religion  unmixed  with  the  imported 
creed.  A  priest  opened  the  storehouse  to  show  us  the  sacred 
cars,  of  great  age  and  rich  in  decorations  of  gold,  silver,  and 
bronze.  In  these  cars  the  deities  of  Inari  make  an  annual 
pilgrimage  to  Ise,  the  Japanese  Mecca,  to  which  as  far  as 

327 


1fn  Bamboo  Xanfcs, 


tradition  reaches  back  an  extraordinary  sanctity  is  attached. 
A  visit  to  these  shrines  is  a  duty  as  important  to  every  Shinto- 
ist  as  is  the  sacred  journey  to  the  Mohammedan. 

I  have  one  of  the  little  charms  carried  by  pilgrims.  It  is 
neatly  put  up  in  a  paper  packet ;  on  a  vari-colored  background 
are  two  grains  of  rice,  on  each  of  which  is  carved  in  micro- 
scopic proportions  a  perfect  figure  of  Daikoku,  the  god  of 
wealth. 

Rows  of  innumerable  small  red  torii  mark  the  beginning  of 
the  "  Circuit;"  numbers  of  pilgrims  were  intent  on  making  it, 
and,  not  to  be  outdone  by  the  faithful,  we  joined  the  procession. 
The  shrines  and  inscriptions  en  route  lacked  interest  without 
explanation,  but  scenery  is  not  thus  handicapped,  and  admirers 
of  nature  can  enjoy  it  in  all  lands,  though  each  have  a  different 
language.  On  the  summit  we  had  magnificent  views  in  every 
direction  of  mountains,  rivers,  villages,  and  nearer  hills 
fringed  with  firs,  and  bamboo  fine  as  feathers.  One  never 
wearies  of  such  scenes.  The  mountain  produces  the  finest 
mushrooms  in  Japan,  and  we  saw  numbers  of  our  old  acquaint- 
ances, the  trespass  notices — but  they  had  lost  their  power  to 
startle  us.  Although  the  circuit  occupied  three  hours,  we 
found  our  famished  kurumayas  patiently  waiting  for  us,  and 
to  compensate  stopped  at  an  inn  and  supplied  them  with  a  full 
meal  well  flavored  with  daikon. 

We  went  to  a  very  good  theatre  in  Kyoto.  A  famous  play 
was  to  be  performed,  in  which  the  great  Buddha  himself  was 
represented  by  the  principal  character.    We  rode  down  the 

lantern-lighted  streets  to  the  entrance,  adorned  with  blood- 

328 


Ikpoto* 


curdling  pictures  in  all  the  colors  of  the  rainbow  and  rows  of 
gaudy  paper  lanterns,  in  front  of  which  was  a  crowd  of  theatre- 
goers and  of  curious  people.  Our  box  in  the  balcony  was  fur- 
nished with  small  wooden  stools,  but  otherwise  it  was  abso- 


A  THEATRE. 

lutely  bare.  When  we  arrived,  the  play  was  in  full  progress 
and  on  the  stage  were  a  number  of  men  bound  hand  and  foot, 
and  our  guide  told  us  that  Buddha  would  come  to  release  them. 
He  appeared  in  the  form  of  a  white  paper  horse,  drawn  along 
on  a  cord  stretched  under  the  roof  from  the  rear  to  the  front 
of  the  building.  As  he  alighted  near  the  prisoners,  an  actor 
rushed  from  the  wings  and  cut  the  bonds.    Then  began  such 

331 


1fn  Bamboo  Xanfcs* 


an  uproar  among  the  players,  accompanied  by  the  wildest  dis- 
cords from  the  musicians,  as  I  have  seen  but  once  before — and 
that  was  in  Sitka,  when  a  party  of  Indians  in  war-paint  and 
feathers,  with  whoops  and  yells  and  derisive  laughter,  each 
holding  a  huge  rattle  in  each  hand,  performed  an  old-time  war- 
dance  for  our  edification.  This  revelation  of  Buddha's  power 
was  received  by  the  audience  quietly,  but  with  every  symptom 
of  approval;  for  the  Japanese  never  shout,  nor  applaud  with 
their  hands.  Another  essential  accompaniment  of  our  play- 
houses is  lacking — the  theatre  hat,  but  it  is  offset  by  the  custom 
of  allowing  an  individual  to  stand  up  by  the  payment  of  a  small 
fee.  A  practice  that  obtains  on  the  stage  is  even  more  ludi- 
crous :  attendants  with  candles  fastened  on  long  poles  illumi- 
nate the  faces  of  the  actors  while  speaking. 

After  the  excitement  had  subsided,  the  feasting,  that  had 
been  interrupted  for  a  time  by  the  grand  climax,  was  resumed 
with  redoubled  resolution.  The  fact  that  impresses  one  most 
is  the  continual  munching  of  favorite  dainties,  such  as  eggs, 
rice-cakes,  and  fruit.  It  is  not  etiquette  to  go  to  a  theatre 
without  previously  ordering  at  a  tea-house  a  lunch  to  be 
served  during  the  play.  Our  cicerone  was  busy  in  disposing 
of  the  refreshments  he  never  failed  to  order  at  our  expense, 
and  his  appetite  was  quite  equal  to  the  demands  made  upon 
it.  The  building  was  poorly  ventilated;  smoking  was  allowed, 
as  it  is  in  temples  and  everywhere  else.  The  play  had  lasted 
all  day,  and  when  we  departed  at  ten  o'clock  was  still 
unfinished. 

The  Sabbath  has  no  meaning  in  Japan — all  days  are  alike ; 

332 


1k£OtO, 


business  goes  on  with  unresting  energy,  and  unless  one  is 
especially  careful  the  day  is  liable  to  be  overlooked. 

By  invitation  of  a  clergyman  we  attended  an  Anglican  ser- 
vice, held  in  the  house  of  a  native  convert.  The  partitions  had 
all  been  removed,  making  the  house  one  large  room,  and  the 
family  sat  on  the  stairway  during  the  sermon  and  looked  down 
upon  us.  There  were  about  twenty  natives  present,  half  of 
whom  had  been  baptized  and  the  remainder  were  prepared  to 
receive  the  sacrament.  The  service  was  conducted  with  dig- 
nity and  decorum,  but  being  in  Japanese  was  unintelligible  to 
me.  The  wretched  little  organ  had  been  imported  from  Eng- 
land thirty  years  previous ;  I  was  invited  to  play  the  accom- 
paniment and  consented  reluctantly,  realizing  the  ordeal  which 
I  was  to  undergo.  A  chorus  of  a  dozen  voices  sang  the  hymns, 
which  were  written  in  Japanese  and  set  to  good  old  English 
tunes;  but  the  language  is  so  constructed  that  it  requires  a 
multiplicity  of  words  to  express  an  idea,  and  it  was  hard  to 
tell  just  where  the  singers  were  and  when  they  would  strike 
the  next  bar.  However,  the  last  measure  we  usually  finished 
in  unison.  There  was  something  very  affecting  to  me  in 
the  humble  efforts  of  this  little  mission,  which  has  been  raided 
more  than  once — so  far  without  serious  results.  A  party  of 
natives  came  in  during  the  hour,  who,  though  they  took  no 
part  in  the  service,  created  no  disturbance.  The  clergyman 
told  us  that  missionaries  had  great  obstacles  to  overcome  in 
the  fickleness  of  character  and  extreme  indifference  of  the 
Japanese  to  all  religion;  added  to  which  are  the  difficulties  of 
the  language,  making  it  doubtful   for  a  long  period  as  to 

333 


ITn  JBamboo  Xanfcs, 


whether  the  words  used  convey  the  right  meaning  or  not. 
And,  to  crown  all,  the  Japanese  students  who  return  from  a 
course  of  study  in  Europe  proclaim  that  "  they  don't  believe 
Christianity  in  those  countries."  The  whole  work  of  the  for- 
eign missionary  societies  has  been  little  more  than  a  "  vast 
expenditure  of  energy,  time,  and  money  to  no  real  purpose," 
and  I  am  satisfied  that  traditionary  beliefs,  the  little  "god- 
shelf"  in  every  home,  and  the  claims  of  race  overmaster  all 
outside  influences.  No  Oriental  race  has  ever  yet  been  con- 
verted to  Christianity,  but  God  bless  whoever  tugs  at  the  at- 
tempt ! 

To  return  to  Buddhism — the  same  afternoon  we  went  to 
Chion-in  to  see  the  unique  ringing  of  the  great  bell,  whose  deep 
tones  cause  all  the  buildings  in  the  vicinity  to  vibrate. 

It  was  a  short  railway  ride  to  Osaka,  the  commercial  centre 
of  Japan.  The  city  has  an  air  of  prosperity  and  comfort ;  it  is 
intersected  by  canals  flanked  on  either  side  by  trees ;  it  has 
countless  bridges  of  stone  and  timber,  and  is  almost  as  de- 
pendent on  its  waterways  as  The  Hague.  The  fortress- 
crowned  and  walled  castle  rises  on  an  eminence  whose  preci- 
pitous sides  terminate  in  the  city  itself.  It  was  constructed 
by  Hideyoshi  in  the  sixteenth  century.  The  streets  are  lined 
with  theatres,  bazaars,  and  shops,  and  the  canals  are  crowded 
with  junks,  sampans,  and  pleasure-boats.  The  temple  of 
Tennoji  is  the  most  celebrated,  and  the  upper  story  of  the 
pagoda  commands  a  wonderful  view  of  the  city  and  its  sub- 
urbs. We  also  went  through  the  Imperial  Mint,  organized  in 
187 1.     In  charge  of  our  guide,  we  spent  the  evening  wander- 

334 


ing  through  the  busy  streets,  and  were  impressed  by  nothing 
so  much  as  the  life  on  the  canals  and  the  islands  with  their 
tea-houses  and  pleasure-grounds.  The  custom  of  closing 
places  of  business  at  night  does  not  obtain  in  Japan,  and  it 


THE  OLD  CASTLE  AND  MOAT  AT  OSAKA. 


is  to  be  hoped  for  the  benefit  of  the  fortunate  visitor  that  it 
never  will. 

The  next  day  we  started  for  Nara,  the  centre  of  Japanese 
Buddhism.  It  was  the  ancient  capital  of  seven  Mikados  from 
a.d.  709  to  784,  and  but  little  of  its  former  splendor  remains 

335 


An  Bamboo  Xanfcs. 

except  the  temples  and  gigantic  figure  of  Buddha.  The  gen- 
eral aspect  of  the  country  is  an  undulating  valley,  abundantly 
wooded  and  enclosed  by  mountain  ranges  brilliantly  green 
with  pine-trees.  We  put  up  at  a  semi-foreign  inn  with  a  gar- 
den bright  with  autumn  flowers  and  shaded  by  trees  whose 
branches  met  above  us,  drooping  under  their  burden  of  wis- 
taria. The  sun  shone  warm  in  that  fragrant  area,  and  half 
the  pleasure  we  received  in  Nara  was  from  rambling  around 
that  enchanting  spot,  the  guide  having  to  summon  us  twice 
before  we  were  willing  to  leave  it.  Not  far  from  the  hotel  is 
a  street  of  shops  where  local  products  are  displayed,  consist- 
ing mostly  of  toy  images  made  of  wood  and  trifles  carved  from 
the  horns  of  tame  deer,  that  herd  in  great  numbers  in  the 
sacred  groves.  We  passed  through  rows  of  stone  lanterns  that 
legend  states  "no  man  can  number" — but  women  did! — to  the 
handsome  dark-red  temples  shaded  by  tall  cryptomerias.  An- 
other avenue  with  more  lanterns,  and  we  reached  a  building 
where  we  were  charged  an  exorbitant  price1  to  witness  the 
sacred  dance  similar  to  the  one  seen  at  Nikko,  but  the  per- 
formers, being  young  and  good-looking  instead  of  grizzled  and 
toothless,  were  more  pleasing  to  look  upon.  Among  the  sights 
which  most  attracted  us  was  a  fine  Buddhist  temple  that 
stands  on  a  slight  elevation.  Great  numbers  of  small  bronze 
lanterns  adorn  the  front,  and,  seen  from  this  vantage 
ground,  the  view  up  and  down  the  valley  and  across  the  town 
is  one  of  inexpressible  beauty.  Near  by  hangs  the  large 
bronze  bell  of  Todaiji,  which,  when  rung  at  stated  periods, 

gives  out  mournfully  sweet  tones  that  resound  through  the 

336 


Ikpoto* 


valley.  It  was  cast  in  a.d.  732  and  weighs  thirty-seven 
tons. 

The  Great  Buddha  is  an  immense  image,  larger  than  that 
at  Kamakura,  but  of  less  merit  as  a  work  of  art.  At  first 
glance  its  height,  fifty-three  feet,  and  corresponding  propor- 
tions were  overpowering.  Buddha,  with  an  expression  of  un- 
smiling placidity,  sat  cross-legged  on  his  lotus-leaved  throne 
with  a  great  halo  around  his  head,  composed  of  images  of 
Buddhist  deities.  The  entire  figure  is  made  of  solid  bronze 
plates.  On  the  altar  was  the  usual  array  of  vases,  candle- 
sticks, incense-burners,  and  idols.  Behind  His  Majesty  we  saw 
an  exhibition  of  venerable  hoards  of  odds  and  ends.  On 
stands  were  spread  out  temple  deities,  household  idols  in  beau- 
tiful lacquer,  head-dresses  worn  on  state  occasions,  pottery 
and  porcelain,  musical  instruments,  ancient  swords  and  em- 
broideries— battered  wrecks  of  time.  In  the  temple  of  Kobu- 
kuji  is  carefully  guarded  the  armor  of  Japan's  most  popular 
hero,  the  great  Yoshitsune,  born  in  1159.  A  younger  half- 
brother  of  the  Sh5gun  Yoritomo,  he  was  early  distinguished 
for  his  valor,  but,  falling  under  the  displeasure  and  jealousy  of 
the  Shogun,  he  fled  into  Yezo,  where  he  committed  harakiri 
after  having  previously  killed  his  wife  and  children.  He  re- 
mains to  this  day  an  object  of  worship  among  the  Ainos,  and 
his  name  is  a  synonym  with  the  Japanese  for  "  single-minded 
bravery  and  devotion." 

The  greatest  ornament  of  Nara  is  the  park,  where,  far  re- 
moved from  the  turmoil  of  the  world  and  the  ugly  and  jarring- 
sights  and  sounds  of  our  grinding  civilization,  one  seems  to 

339 


In  bamboo  Xante. 


breathe  an  air  of  purity.  In  the  cool,  refreshing  shade  the 
inn  had  provided  a  delicious  noonday  meal.  The  coolies 
scornfully  refused  to  share  the  "foreign  food,"  and  we  gave 
the  surplus  to  the  sacred  deer  of  less  fastidious  taste.  As  day- 
light waned  we  took  the  train  for  Kyoto,  where  after  hours  of 
sunshine  we  arrived  amid  torrents  of  rain  and  gusts  of  wind. 
The  night  being  chilly,  the  kurumayas  drew  us  over  the 
ground  at  a  great  pace,  and  we  were  soon  in  our  rooms  enjoy- 
ing an  open  fire  thoughtfully  provided  by  the  presiding  genius 
of  that  well-regulated  hostelry. 

The  Japanese  encourage  learning.  "  During  the  Middle 
Ages,  education  was  in  the  hands  of  the  Buddhist  priesthood. 
The  temples  were  the  schools:  the  subject  most  insisted  on 
was  the  Buddhist  Sutras.  The  accession  of  the  Tokugawa 
family  to  the  Shogunate  (a.d.  1603-1867)  brought  with  it  a 
change.  The  educated  classes  became  Confucianists.  Ac- 
cordingly, the  Confucian  classics,  the  'Four  Books'  and  the 
'Five  Canons,'  were  installed  in  the  place  of  honor,  learnt  by 
heart,  expounded  as  carefully  as  in  China  itself.  Besides  the 
Chinese  classics,  instruction  was  given  in  the  native  history 
and  literature.  Some  few  art  students  picked  their  way 
through  Dutch  books  that  had  been  begged,  borrowed,  or  stolen 
from  the  Hollanders  at  Nagasaki,  or  bought  for  their  weight  in 
gold  for  the  sake  of  the  priceless  treasures  of  medical  and 
other  scientific  knowledge  known  to  be  concealed  in  them. 
But  such  devotees  of  European  learning  were  forced  to  main- 
tain the  greatest  secrecy,  and  were  hampered  by  almost  in- 
credible difficulties.    For  the  government  of  the  day  frowned 

34o 


on  all  things  foreign,  and  more  than  one  zealous  student  ex- 
piated by  his  death  the  crime  of  striving  to  increase  knowl- 
edge. With  the  revolution  of  1868,  the  old  system  of  education 
crumbled  away." 

Japan,  as  "  heir  of  all  the  ages  in  the  foremost  files  of  time," 
has  selected  and  adopted  the  best  products  of  the  Occidental 
brain,  and  shaped  "her  acquisitions  to  meet  her  own  ends." 

Her  military  system  is  modelled  on  the  French  and  Ger- 
man ;  her  naval  system  on  the  French  and  English ;  English 
and  American  experts  constructed  her  telegraph  and  telephone 
systems;  and  her  public  school  system  is  modelled  upon  the 
best  results  obtained  in  Europe  and  America.  In  1872,  it  was 
announced  officially  that  "  it  is  intended  that  henceforth  edu- 
cation shall  be  so  diffused  that  there  shall  not  be  a  village  with 
an  ignorant  family,  nor  a  family  with  an  ignorant  member." 
The  Japanese  are  very  fond  of  reading,  bookstores  are  com- 
mon, and  circulating-libraries,  carried  on  the  shoulders  of  men 
from  house  to  house,  are  noticed  everywhere.  We  visited  the 
Imperial  University  and  Peeresses'  School  in  Tokyo;  an  ele- 
mentary school  Ifor  both  sexes  in  Kyoto,  where  each  boy  and 
girl  had  his  or  ner  own  seat  and  desk;  and  the  university 
called  the  "  Doshisha,"  founded  under  the  auspices  of  the  Con- 
gregational Board  of  Missions,  which  occupies  with  its  build- 
ings and  grounds  a  large  tract  of  land  in  the  vicinity  of  the 
Emperor's  palace.  Its  success  is  mainly  due  to  the  efforts  of 
the  Rev.  Joseph  Neeshima,  an  eminent  convert  and  one  of  the 
most  famous  Japanese  of  modern  times.  Including  the  School 
for  Girls,  there  are  more  than  five  hundred  students.    A  lady 

34i 


iFn  Bamboo  Xan&s* 


connected  with  the  female  department  took  us  through  the 
buildings,  which  contain,  besides  the  usual  lecture,  study,  and 
recitation  rooms,  a  well-stocked  library,  a  fine  laboratory,  a 
geological  museum,  a  school  of  engineering,  an  astronomical 
observatory,  other  minor  departments,  and  the  latest  scientific 
apparatus. 

One  of  the  corps  of  instructors  remarked :  "  We  hope  to  do 
better  work  when  we  become  better  organized." 

The  boarding-school  for  girls  occupies  a  building  in  the  same 
grounds,  and  is  presided  over  by  a  principal  and  several  assist- 
ants. The  girls  receive  a  very  good  general  education,  some 
instruction  in  music,  and  are  taught  to  sew — all  of  which 
qualifies  them  to  become  wives  of  well-to-do  foreigners ;  but 
grand  failures  if  they  marry  natives  of  their  own  class,  as  few 
Japanese  can  afford  to  give  their  families  the  luxuries  Euro- 
peans consider  necessities.  We  were  shown  about  the  build- 
ing and  saw  the  girls  at  study  in  their  private  rooms,  after 
which  we  dined  with  the  ladies.  The  ornaments  of  the  dining- 
room  were  embroidered  scrolls,  lacquer-ware,  and  bronzes; 
the  table  appointments  were  exquisitely  refined  and  the  food 
delicious.  The  society  was  the  most  agreeable  of  all,  and 
while  we  conversed  there  floated  toward  us  the  indescribably 
sweet  tones  of  bells  from  a  neighboring  temple.  After  months 
of  travel  and  its  attendant  discomforts  it  was  an  hour  of  enjoy- 
ment; we  were  charmed  with  everybody  and  everything. 
One  of  the  ladies  had  a  fine  collection  of  curios,  especially  of 
antique  candlesticks,  that  she  had  gathered  during  a  residence 

of  some  years  in  the  country.    The  veranda  and  windows  were 

342 


1k£OtO. 


thickly  grown  with  vines  and  in  the  garden — although  so  late 
in  the  year — there  were  still  plenty  of  flowers.  I  noticed  par- 
ticularly the  roses,  geraniums,  and  chrysanthemums.  The 
same  evening  we  went  with  our  friends  to  a  prayer-meeting, 
held  in  the  house  of  a  missionary.  The  large  parlor  was  well 
filled  with  ladies  and  gentlemen  engaged  in  ecclesiastical  work, 
and  the  service  of  prayer  and  song  was  conducted  with  zeal. 
The  American  missionaries  are  conscientious  "teetotallers," 
and  devote  their  time  to  their  work  with  praiseworthy  energy. 

The  transition  from  a  solemn  Christian  gathering  to  gay 
street  scenes  is  in  Kyoto  absurdly  simple.  We  walked  across 
the  park  to  a  native  house,  where  we  found  the  family  gathered 
around  the  hibachi,  as  the  evening  was  cool ;  stepped  into  our 
kurumas,  and  were  soon  dashing  along  the  street  at  a  speed  that 
rivalled  that  of  a  trotting-horse.  The  route  chosen  took  us 
through  a  noted  thoroughfare,  best  seen  at  night  when  crowded 
with  people,  and  lighted  its  entire  length  with  paper  lanterns 
of  every  color.  Dismissing  the  kurumayas,  who  could  go  no 
farther,  we  left  them  with  instructions  to  await  us  at  a  cer- 
tain point.  The  theatres,  peep-shows,  and  shops  were  well 
patronized.  All  along  the  way  there  were  scores  of  shops 
filled  with  the  products  of  patient  toil,  from  articles  of  dress 
and  ornament  to  sweetmeats  and  toys.  I  bought  a  box  of  con- 
fectionery containing  a  dozen  varieties  invitingly  arranged, 
only  one  of  which  I  could  pronounce  good.  We  saw  other 
places,  in  which  all  the  articles  that  could  be  strung  together 
were  hung  across  the  front  or  in  the  room,  forming  great  fes- 
toons that  fluttered  with  every  puff  of  wind.    These  ornamen- 

343 


1Tn  bamboo  Xanfcs* 


tal  business-signs  were  especially  noticeable  in  shops  where 
toys  and  lanterns  were  for  sale.  The  refreshment  booths 
were  crowded,  tea  and  sake,  receiving  more  than  their  share 
of  attention.  We  were  prepared  to  see  strange  scenes  and  did ; 
and  were  very  careful  not  to  taste  anything.  Among  the 
thousand  quaint  sights  the  people  themselves,  with  childlike 
satisfaction  depicted  on  their  countenances,  were  always  most 
amusing.  All  ages  were  represented,  from  the  patriarch  down 
to  the  mite  napping  comfortably  or  wondering  over  its 
mother's  shoulder;  children  are  never  put  to  bed  until  the 
parents  retire.  We  sauntered  up  and  down,  stopping  at  every 
little  shop,  sometimes  hemmed  in  so  closely  escape  was  diffi- 
cult. The  whole  town  appeared  to  be  having  a  frolic  of  the 
first  order.  The  hour  was  late  when,  thinking  that  perhaps 
we  should  never  meet  again,  in  sad  and  affectionate  words  we 
thanked  our  charming  friends,  who  had  shown  us  more  than 
kindness,  and  rode  through  the  waning  moonlight  to  our  hotel. 

Kyoto  had  been  an  inexhaustible  source  of  pleasure;  we 
had  come  to  see  and  had  not  neglected  our  opportunities.  The 
weeks  flew  so  quickly  each  day  brought  new  wonders  and  new 
pleasures;  the  Emperor's  birthday  was  at  hand,  and  I  had 
planned  to  reach  Tokyo  on  that  day,  and  thither  it  was  neces- 
sary to  go.  Sayonara. 

344 


CHAPTER  VII. 


MUTSUHITO  AND  HARUKO. 

A  night  ride  in  a  Japanese  sleeping-car,  without  accom- 
modations for  sleeping  other  than  the  leather-cushioned  seats, 
is  a  novel  experience  and  affords  a  rare  opportunity  to  study 
the  people.  Rather  than  be  the  only 
occupant  of  a  carriage  reserved  for 
ladies,  I  took  a  seat  in  one  well  filled 
with  natives,  I  being  the  only  foreigner. 
The  passengers  all  belonged  to  the 
Samurai  class,  their  narrow,  pale  faces, 
arched  noses,  thin  lips,  large  eyes, 
white  teeth,  and  a  certain  hauteur  of 
manner  indicating  the  indelible  caste 
distinction.  I  bundled  myself  up  in  a 
corner  and  napped  between  stations, 
although  disturbed  somewhat  by  the 
ceaseless  chatter  they  kept  up  during 
the  entire  night,  and  the  tap,  tap  of 
smokers  removing  the  ashes  from  their 
pipes. 

The  Japanese  are  the  soul  of  refinement,  as  evidenced  by 
much  I  saw  during  my  tour ;  and  never  was  it  more  apparent 

345 


1fn  Bamboo  Xanfcs* 


than  during  that  night's  ride.  An  elderly  gentleman  and  his 
son  had  seats  near  me,  and  while  having  our  respective  break- 
fasts we  exchanged  courtesies,  I  offering  fruit  and  eggs — of 
which  all  classes  are  very  fond,  he  giving,  in  return,  rice- 
cakes  that  nearly  choked  me  while  attempting  to  swallow 
them.  I  shall  never  forget  an  incident  that  occurred  at  day- 
break. Suddenly  I  noticed  every  passenger  with  head  un- 
covered, gazing  in  a  reverential  manner  out  of  the  windows ;  I 
too  looked — and  saw  Fujiyama  as  I  had  never  before  seen  it. 
What  a  glorious  sight  it  was !  Reddening  in  the  sunrise,  with 
not  a  cloud  to  obscure  it,  the  great  dome  of  snow  stood  forth 
in  all  its  majesty,  bathed  to  its  summit  in  rosy  tints.  We 
were  running  through  the  lowlands  at  the  base  of  the  moun- 
tain, and  the  view  was  peerless.  On  my  first  visit  to  the 
Pacific  Coast  I  waited  many  days  for  the  clouds  to  pass  that 
obscured  Mount  Hood,  and  when  at  last  the  great  snow  moun- 
tain appeared  in  the  extreme  excitement  of  the  view  its  beauty 
and  grandeur  quite  unnerved  me.  A  similar  emotion  in- 
fluenced me  on  that  lovely  autumn  morning  when  Fujiyama 
revealed  itself  covered  with  snow  and  glistening  in  the  slow 
splendor  of  the  increasing  sun.  A  grand  climax  to  all  I  had 
seen  in  Japan  and  a  rich  compensation  for  a  restless  night  in 
a  stuffy  car.  It  is  not  surprising  that  the  Japanese  worship 
with  profound  reverence  this  noble  mountain,  for  these  snow- 
crowned  peaks  cannot  fail  to  rouse  the  noblest  emotions  in 
mankind. 

After  this  grand  sight — which  I  have  longed  ever  since  for 

a  painter's  power  to  place  on  canvas — we  reached  Yokohama. 

346 


/IDutsubtto  anfc  tmrufeo, 

A  dejeuner  a  la  fourchette  concluded,  I  started  with  friends 
for  a  garden  on  the  Bluff  to  see  a  fine  exhibit  of  chrysanthe- 
mums (kiku),  then  in  their  prime.  Magnificent  plants  of  every 
conceivable  color  bordered  the  paths,  and  in  temporary  arbors, 
put  up  to  protect  them  from  the  sun,  were  masses  of  them. 


A  VIEW   OF  CASTLE,  AND  NIJIUBASHI. 


Some  plants  were  allowed  to  bear  but  one  blossom,  and  single 
specimens  of  enormous  size,  fastened  on  twigs,  were  stuck  in 
the  ground  in  patterns,  making  a  pleasing  variety.  This 
flower-display  can  be  duplicated  in  no  other  country  but  Japan. 
The  day  was  so  charming  we  continued  our  ride  to  Mississippi 
Bay  and  lunched  at  our  favorite  tea-house.  The  same  evening 
found  us  nicely  housed  at  the  Imperial  Hotel  in  Tokyo. 

347 


1Fn  JSamboo  Xanfcs. 


At  last  came  the  much-desired  November  3d,  the  Em- 
peror's birthday — happily  it  was  fine — and  we  prepared  to 
attend  the  festivities  in  his  honor.  The  vast  enclosure  of  the 
imperial  palace,  once  the  castle  of  the  Shognns,  stands  in 
the  centre  of  the  city,  protected  by  eleven  miles  of  moats  and 
high  stone  walls,  the  blocks  01  which  are  fitted  together  with- 
out mortar  or  cement.  Three  broad  moats  filled  with  aquatic 
plants  in  autumn  and  wild  fowl  in  winter,  and  ramparts  one 
hundred  feet  high  in  some  places,  surround  the  grounds. 
Turret-shaped  towers  surmount  the  angles,  and  there  are 
twenty-seven  entrance  gates,  some  of  them  approached  by 
bridges,  the  finest  of  which  is  the  Xijiubashi,  a  beautiful 
structure  of  white  marble.  The  gardens  which  surround  the 
palace  are  extensive,  and  every  detail  is  carried  out  in  accord- 
ance with  the  best  schools  of  Japanese  landscape-gardening. 
Mountains,  lakes,  streams,  fountains,  bridges  more  or  less  im- 
posing in  size,  rocks,  dwarfed  pines,  and  shrubs  are  ingeniously 
arranged  to  form  a  natural  scene.  The  grounds  are  beauti- 
fully cared  for  and  thickly  planted  with  forest  trees  that  ante- 
date the  memory  of  the  oldest  inhabitant  by  a  century  or 
more.  Magnificent  chrysanthemums — the  royal  flower  of 
Japan — in  bloom,  transformed  the  spot  into  a  garden  worthy 
of  Amyitis. 

Few  Japanese  and  no  foreigners  are  allowed  to  enter  the 
grounds,  unless  their  presence  is  there  desired. 

The  ancient  palace  was  destroyed  by  fire  in  1872  and  the 
work  of  rebuilding  begun  in  1 884.  Architecturally  the  modern 
one  is  in  pure  Japanese  style.    The  cluster  of  low  white  build- 

348 


/Ifeutsubito  anfc  Ibarufeo. 


ings,  with  black-tiled  proofs,  covers  an  area  of  fifty-six  hundred 
square  yards.  Walking  up  the  broad  avenue  and  "entering 
through  long  corridors  isolated  by  massive  iron  doors,  we  find 
ourselves  in  the  smaller  of  two  reception-rooms,  and  at  the 
commencement  of  what  seems  an  endless  vista  of  crystal 


THE  PALACE. 

chambers.  This  effect  is  due  to  the  fact  that  the  shoji,  or  slid- 
ing doors,  are  of  plate  glass.  The  workmanship  and  decora- 
tion of  these  chambers  are  truly  exquisite.  It  need  scarcely 
be  said  that  the  woods  employed  are  of  the  choicest  descrip- 
tion, and  that  the  carpenters  and  joiners  have  done  their  part 
with  such  skill  as  only  Japanese  artisans  seem  to  possess. 

349 


Un  Bamboo  Xanfcs, 


Every  ceiling  is  a  work  of  art,  being*  divided  by  lacquer  ribs 
of  a  deep  brown  color  into  numerous  panels,  each  of  which 
contains  a  beautifully  executed  decorative  design,  painted,  em- 
broidered, or  embossed.  The  walls  are  covered  in  most  cases 
with  rich  but  chaste  brocades,  except  in  the  corridors,  where  a 
thick  embossed  paper  of  charming  tint  and  pattern  shows  what 
skill  has  been  developed  in  this  class  of  manufacture  at  the  Im- 
perial Printing  Bureau.  Amid  this  luxury  of  well-assorted 
but  warm  tints  remain  the  massive  square  posts,  beautiful 
enough  in  themselves,  but  scarcely  harmonizing  with  their 
environment,  and  introducing  an  incongruous  element  into  the 
building.  The  true  type  of  what  may  be  called  imperial 
esthetic  decoration  was  essentially  marked  by  refined  simplicity 
— white  wooden  joinery,  with  pale  neutral  tints  and  mellow 
gilding.  The  splendor  of  the  richly  painted  ceilings,  lac- 
quered lattice-work,  and  brocaded  walls  was  reserved  for  Bud- 
dhist temples  and  mausolea.  Thus  we  have  the  Shinto  or 
true  imperial  style  presenting  itself  in  the  severely  colorless 
pillars,  while  the  resources  of  religious  architecture  have  been 
drawn  upon  for  the  rest  of  the  decoration.  In  one  part  of  the 
building  the  severest  canons  have  been  strictly  followed ;  the 
six  imperial  studios,  three  below-stairs  and  three  above,  are 
precisely  such  chaste  and  pure  apartments  as  a  scholar  would 
choose  for  the  abode  of  learning.  By  way  of  an  example  in 
the  other  direction,  we  may  take  the  banqueting  hall,  a  room 
of  magnificent  size  (five  hundred  and  forty  square  yards)  and 
noble  proportions,  its  immense  expanse  of  ceiling  glowing 
with  gold  and  colors  and  its  broad  walls  hung  with  the  cost- 

35° 


/IDutdublto  ant)  Ibarufto. 


liest  silks.  The  throne  ehamber  is  scarcely  less  striking, 
though  of  smaller  dimensions  and  more  subdued  decoration. 
Every  detail  of  the  work  shows  infinite  painstaking-  and  is 
redolent  of  artistic  instinct.  The  furniture  of  the  palace  was 
imported  from  Germany." 

Twenty-five  years  ago  the  person  of  the  Emperor  was  so 
sacred  he  was  seen  by  no  one  save  high  court  officials,  and 
even  to  them  his  face  must  be  veiled.  When  he  first  appeared 
in  public  he  was  clad  in  the  national  costume.  He  now  visits 
the  charity  hospitals  and  drives  about  the  streets  as  the  rulers 
in  Western  lands.  The  Emperor  and  Empress  received  their 
guests  surrounded  by  princes  of  the  imperial  blood  and  officers 
in  full  dress,  with  the  long  coat  confined  by  a  silver  belt,  such 
as  German  soldiers  wear,  and  stiff  little  caps  with  a  great  white 
aigrette,  like  the  French.  The  Emperor  Mutsuhito  is  slightly 
above  the  average  Japanese  height,  and  though  not  handsome 
has  an  air  of  distinction.  His  eyes  are  dark,  his  short  hair  as 
black  as  ebony,  and  his  beard  is  trimmed  a  la  Frangaise.  He 
wore  the  full-dress  uniform  of  a  general  in  the  army.  He  is 
a  man  of  great  force  of  character,  of  much  energy  and  endur- 
ance, and  devoted  to  outdoor  sports — riding,  shooting,  tennis, 
fishing,  and  football.  This  wise  and  unselfish  ruler  was  born  in 
1852.  The  Empress  Haruko  was  en  grande  toilette  of  Parisian 
make.  She  is  petite,  has  jet-black  hair,  a  finely  formed  head, 
much  personal  beauty,  and  is  a  very  clever  woman.  She  is 
two  years  older  than  her  husband.  She  has  organized  many 
charities,  benevolent  societies,  and  a  school  for  the  daughters 
of   noblemen,    where  they   receive  instruction    in  English 

35i 


1Tn  Bamboo  Xante. 


branches,  music,  drawing,  and  painting.  The  lace-schools  are 
under  her  patronage,  and  she  interests  herself  also  in  silk- 
culture  and  embroidery.  The  Empress  is  both  a  poetess  and  a 
musician:  her  favorite  instrument  is  the  koto  of  seventeen 
strings,  on  which  she  is  an  accomplished  performer.  The 


for  each  individual  member  of  it.  The  government  is  a 
limited  monarchy.  A  tidal  wave  of  foreign  ideas  reached 
Japan  in  1886,  and  since  that  time  the  Japanese  court  has 
abolished  the  national  costume,  although  it  is  said  that  the 
Empress  still  wears  the  native  dress  in  private.  They  en- 
deavor to  be  everything  that  is  Western  and  nothing  that  is 
Eastern. 


Crown  Prince  Haru,  born  in 
1879,  is  being  carefully  edu- 
cated, and  already  speaks 
English,  French,  and  Ger- 
man fluently.  Two  little 
princesses  complete  the 
group.  All  are  deeply  im- 
bued with  Western  ideas. 


THE  EMPEROR. 


The  sentiment  of  the 
Japanese  toward  the  royal 
family  is  not  only  one  of 
religious  veneration  for  the 
representatives  of  an  un- 
broken dynasty  which  dates 
back  twenty-five  centuries, 
but    also    one   of  affection 


352 


23 


flbutsubito  anfc  Ibarufeo. 


We  thought  it  a  piece  of  barbarism  to  discard  the  easy? 
graceful  kimona  for  the  stiff,  ill-fitting  European  costume; 
for,  with  all  our  superior  civilization,  we  cannot  teach  them 
anything  about  dress,  and  why,  with  all  the  world  to  choose 
from,  they  should  choose 
ours  is  inscrutable.  Before 
leaving  the  country  I  was 
gratified  to  learn  that  a  re- 
action had  set  in ;  the  high- 
est intellect  of  the  country 
strongly  resists  this  servile 
imitation  of  the  West,  and 
it  is  to  be  hoped  that,  if  Ja- 
pan resumes  her  national 
dress,  she  will  never  again 
abandon  it.  I  deplore  the 
denationalization  of  nations, 
the  breaking  up,  in  short,  of 
^national  life  and  customs; 
and  instances  of  it  are  nu- 
merous— India  rapidly  be- 
coming Anglicized ;  Hawaii 
a  Republic;  Japan  imitating  Europe.  The  times  threaten  to 
deprive  these  countries  of  their  peculiar  charm.  The  change 
is  most  remarkable  in  Japan,  where  the  worship  of  ancestors 
and  the  ancient  customs  form  the  national  religion. 

It  is  quite  the  rule  for  the  Mikado  to  abdicate  in  favor  of 
his  successor;  he  then  rises  to  the  rank  of  ex-Mikado.  This 

355 


THE  EMPRESS. 


1Tn  Bamboo  Xanfcs, 


custom  extends  to  all  classes ;  a  father  upon  reaching  middle 
age  gives  up  business  in  favor  of  his  son,  and  waiting  for 
"  dead  men's  shoes"  is  not  a  fashionable  occupation.  After 
seeing  something  of  the  Orient,  one  feels  quite  inclined  to 
doubt  whether  our  ideas  of  civilization  are  the  highest  and  best, 
after  all. 

We  saw  the  review  of  local  troops  by  the  Emperor,  who 
was  on  horseback  and  made  an  impression  by  his  fine  and 
soldierly  bearing.  He  was  attended  by  mounted  men,  with 
plumes  waving,  and  their  bugles  blowing  the  notes  of  their 
own  march.  It  was  a  festal  day.  The  city  was  decorated  with 
thousands  of  flags;  the  Japanese  ensign,  a  red  ball  on  a  white 
ground,  and  His  Imperial  Majesty's  portrait  was  everywhere 
displayed.  Bands  of  music  played  the  national  air  and  modern 
war-tunes;  through  the  streets  flowed  a  great  multitude  in 
gala  attire ;  and  each  hour  a  train  arrived  from  which  a  crowd 
poured  forth.  As  night  came  on  the  excitement  increased, 
and  there  was  a  marvellous  illumination  extending  as  far  as  the 
eye  could  reach ;  the  whole  city  was  ablaze  with  lanterns,  and 
fireworks,  the  favorite  national  combustible,  were  discharged 
in  large  quantities. 

It  was  the  good  fortune  of  the  writer  to  meet  a  typical 
family  of  the  highest  world.  The  husband  was  dressed  as  a 
European,  the  wife  wore  the  native  costume,  although  she 
was  educated  in  America.  Their  house  was  of  Western  archi- 
tecture, and  in  the  admirable  grounds,  shaded  by  grand  old 
trees,  bloomed  a  wealth  of  shrubs.    The  interior  was  fitted  up 

with  great  elegance ;  and,  seated  on  damask-covered  chairs,  we 

356 


A  SHINTO  SHRINE,  KOBE. 


flDutsubtto  anfc  fmrufeo. 


had  tea  with  our  hostess,  a  lady  of  many  accomplishments,  Ori- 
ental ease  of  manner,  and  richly  attired  in  an  embroidered 
kimona.  She  conducted  us  through  the  house  to  the  upper 
rooms,  which  contrasted  strongly  with  those  below.  Fine 
white  mats  covered  the  floors,  kakemonos  of  great  beauty  were 
suspended  from  the  toko  walls,  and  vases  of  freshly  gathered 
flowers  brightened  the  pretty  interiors.  Nowhere  in  the  world 
are  such  delicate  attentions  lavished  upon  the  visitor  as  in 
Japan.  Family  life  among  the  upper  classes,  a  life  of  which 
foreigners  see  little,  is  sacred,  and  to  speak  to  an  Asiatic  of  his 
wife  and  daughters  would  be  a  gross  rudeness  and  an  unpar- 
donable insult.  A  foreigner,  though  admitted  to  the  house  of 
a  Samurai,  sees  nothing  of  the  domestic  life,  and  his  reception 
in  the  guest-room  is  usually  most  formal.  Our  Japanese 
friends  sent  parting  gifts,  accompanied  by  the  usual  shred  of 
seaweed  neatly  put  up  in  a  gilt-paper  packet.  The  bit  of  sea- 
weed signifies  the  origin  of  the  race  and  good  luck,  and  the 
custom  of  sending  it  with  presents  is  universal. 

At  Aoyama,  the  residence  of  the  Empress-Dowager,  and 
Dangozaka  we  saw  the  most  wonderful  displays  of  chrysan- 
themums in  the  world. 

359 


CHAPTER  VIII. 

THE  INLAND  SEA. 

Sir  Harry  Parkes'  two  daughters,  a  commodore  of  the 
English  navy,  the  manager  of  the  steamship  company  with 
his  wife,  and  three  Americans  composed  the  party  who  sailed 
on  the  Empress  of  India.  As  we  stepped  on  board  the  ship 
that  was  to  bear  us  away,  baskets  of  flowers  were  presented  by 
the  gentleman  who  has  made  the  Grand  Hotel  the  finest 
hostelry  in  the  East. 

The  scenery  was  sublime  as  we  dropped  down  the  bay.  The 
volcano  on  Vries  Island  sends  heavenward  an  eternal  cloud  of 
smoke,  and  snow-crowned  Fujiyama  towers  over  the  hills  into 
the  deep  blue  sky,  forming  a  picture  neither  poet  nor  painter 
can  depict.  Continually  coming  into  view  are  outlying  isl- 
ands richly  clothed  with  vegetation  that  comes  down  close  to 
the  water* s  edge,  rocky  promontories,  and  inlets  thickly 
studded  with  little  white-sailed  boats  engaged  in  fishing.  A 
blue  sky,  a  smooth  sea,  the  weird  cries  of  seabirds  enrich  a 
scene  that  makes  the  blood  dance  in  the  veins.  As  the  sun 
travels  westward  and  sinks  below  the  horizon,  its  last  rays 
light  the  cliffs  and  the  sea  with  a  golden  glow. 

We  remained  on  deck  long  after 

360 


Zhc  ffnlanfc  Sea, 


" the  moon, 

Rising  in  clouded  majesty,  at  length 
Apparent  queen,  unveiled  her  peerless  light, 
And  o'er  the  dark  her  silver  mantle  threw." 

The  following-  morning-  we  cast  anchor  in  the  land-locked 
harbor  of  Kobe,  the  seaport  of  Osaka.  It  was  crowded  with 
shipping — men-of-war,  English  and  other  foreign  tramps, 
Japanese  mail-boats,  junks,  and  sampans,  mixed  up  with  coal- 
barges  and  steam  launches.  Kobe  in  bad  weather  is  probably 
as  dismal  as  most  places,  but  on  that  bright  November  day  it 
wore  a  decidedly  picturesque  appearance.  The  hills,  tinted 
with  autumn's  many-colored  leaves,  offered  great  attractions 
for  those  who  could  walk  well,  and,  as  we  all  could,  the  instant 
breakfast  was  finished  we  started  for  the  heights. 

In  going  to  the  famous  cascades  formed  by  a  mountain 
stream  that  leaps  a  hundred  feet  into  the  pool  below,  we  were 
constantly  beset  by  beggars,  who  made  special  effort  to  display 
their  repulsive  deformities.  It  was  a  pretty  stiff  climb  of  two 
hours,  past  torii,  temples,  and  tea-houses  and  sound  of  chanting 
brooks,  to  the  summit  where  stands  the  shrine  dedicated  to 
Maya  Bunin,  the  mother  of  Buddha.  Ranges  of  mountains 
somewhat  bare  rose  to  the  west,  and  over  the  bay,  between  us 
and  Izumi,  the  shores  for  miles  are  exquisitely  beautiful ;  the 
woods  run  into  the  water.  Coming  down,  we  heard  a  peculiar 
rustle  among  the  trees ;  and  discovered  a  troop  of  wild  mon- 
keys indulging  in  a  lively  frolic.  The  walk  had  given  us  suffi- 
cient exercise,  and  we  were  glad  to  engage  kurumas  for  the 
remaining  sights.    A  fine  driveway  runs  along  the  sea-wall, 

363 


In  bamboo  Xanfcs, 


and  Higher  up  is  another  avenue,  where  we  saw  a  gorgeous  show 
of  chrysanthemums,  equal  in  quality  if  not  in  quantity  to  other 
flower  displays.  Continuing  our  ride,  we  crossed  the  unruly 
Minato-gawa  by  a  massive  stone  bridge  to  the  native  town  of 
Hiogo ;  visited  several  noted  temples  and  a  wonderfully  fine 
statue  of  Buddha  fifty  feet  in  height ;  rummaged  among  the 
curio- shops ;  and  returned  late  that  evening  to  our  steamer. 

There  were  no  late  sleepers  the  next  morning ;  every  pas- 
senger was  on  deck  when  the  ship  weighed  anchor,  for  we 
were  about  to  thread  the  waters  of  the  beautiful  Inland  Sea — 
a  long  strait  that  stretches  for  two  hundred  and  forty  miles  be- 
tween the  main  islands  from  Kobe  to  Shimonoseki.  It  is 
thickly  studded  with  islets — some  large,  thickly  populated,  and 
under  a  high  state  of  cultivation ;  and  others  mere  nameless 
rocks,  a  foe  to  seamen.  Mountains  rise  to  a  height  of  seven 
thousand  feet,  villages  abound  on  the  shore,  temples  and  ruined 
castles  can  be  distinguished  among  the  trees,  and  square-sailed 
junks  and  fishing-craft  ply  the  smooth  water.  From  time  to 
time  we  passed  among  islands  so  closely  grouped  they  ap- 
peared to  form  a  cul  de  sac;  but  the  skilful  pilot  steers  the 
ship  in  safety  round  point  after  point,  encountering  currents  and 
whirlpools  that  have  sent  many  a  native  boat  to  destruction. 
The  course  is  well  lighted,  and  can  be  traversed  equally  well 
by  day  or  night.  The  lovely  island  of  Miyajima  is  one  of  the 
"three  chief  sights  of  Japan,"  a  resort  of  pilgrims,  and  so 
sacred  that  no  one  is  allowed  to  be  born  or  to  die  there.  Its 
famous  temple  is  built  on  piles,  over  the  water,  the  great  torii 
stands  in  the  sea,  and  the  sacred  deer  are  as  tame  as  those  at 

364 


XTbe  Ihtlanfc  Sea, 


Nara.  The  climate  is  delightful ;  and  fine  tea-houses  and 
good  bathing  combine  to  make  it  a  popular  watering-place. 

The  peculiar  beauty  of  the  famous  sea  is  derived  from  the 
bold  and  diverse  outline  of  the  islands,  the  little  rocks,  and  the 
varied  vegetation ;  its  praises  have  been  sung  for  ages,  and  its 
wonderful  loveliness  has  been  at  once  the  inspiration  and  the 
despair  of  painters  and  of  poets.  The  scenery  is  much  more 
picturesque  than  that  of  the  Thousand  Islands  of  the  St.  Law- 
rence River,  and  less  grand  than  that  of  the  Inland  Passage  to 
Alaska. 

We  reached  Nagasaki  early  in  the  day.  As  we  entered  the 
harbor  the  celebrated  island  of  Pappenburg  was  seen  rising 
Gibraltar-like  from  the  sea.  In  the  seventeenth  century  thirty 
thousand  native  converts  were  thrown  over  its  high  cliffs  by 
command  of  Iemitsu,  who  drove  out  the  Jesuits  and  extin- 
guished Christianity. 

The  Christian  religion  has  had  a  hard  struggle  in  Japan. 
Beginning  with  the  arrival  of  St.  Francis  Xavier  in  1549,  the 
new  theology  early  in  the  next  century  had  gained  about  six 
hundred  thousand  converts.  The  government  became  alarmed 
at  its  spread  and,  fearing  its  influence,  determined  to  suppress 
it.  The  Christians  defied  the  ruling  power,  and  rebellion, 
sieges,  and  massacres  followed,  ending  with  the  wholesale 
slaughter  of  Pappenburg.  The  converts  met  their  fate  with 
courage,  refusing  to  trample  on  the  cross.  The  new  faith  was 
completely  obliterated.  Grifns  explains  the  larger  success  of 
the  Jesuit  missions  of  the  sixteenth  century  partly  by  the  re- 
semblance between  the  outer  forms  of  Roman  Catholicism  and 

367 


1hi  Bamboo  Xanfcs. 

the  outer  forms  of  Buddhism — the  newer  being  taken  for  a 
higher  form  of  the  older,  though,  "  in  point  of  dogma,  a  whole 
world  of  thought  separates  them  from  every  form  of  Chris- 
tianity."  Hecker  classes  it  as  one  of  the  "epidemics  of  the 
Middle  Ages." 

At  that  time  the  Dutch  were  the  principal  traders  in  Japan, 
and  after  an  agreement  not  to  proselyte  had  been  duly  exe- 
cuted a  colony  of  them  was  allowed  to  occupy  the  "  walled 
and  bridge-guarded"  island  of  Deshima,  a  suburb  of  Naga- 
saki, for  trading  purposes.  There  is  a  humorous  side  to  the 
corralling  of  these  traders,  for,  as  is  well  known,  the  Hol- 
landers of  that  period  had  little  interest  in  saving  souls — their 
sole  ambition  was  to  save  silver.  They  would  have  been 
much  more  dangerous  neighbors  if  either  greater  sinners  or 
greater  saints.  This  agreement  so  readily  made  was  as  easily 
kept,  and  for  two  hundred  years,  until  the  arrival  of  Commo- 
dore Perry  in  1853,  the  Dutch  monopolized  the  trade  of  the 
country. 

The  sheltered  harbor,  a  narrow  inlet  three  miles  in  length, 
is  one  of  the  most  famous  in  the  world,  and  affords  safe  re- 
treat for  all  classes  of  shipping.  It  is  also  an  important  coal- 
ing-station. We  had  no  sooner  cast  anchor  than  great  flat- 
bottomed  boats  were  moored  alongside,  and  a  tireless  crowd 
of  native  girls  and  boys  passed  the  coal  in  small  baskets  up  the 
gangway  and  discharged  it  on  board.  It  would  seem  to  be  a 
slow  process,  but  the  little  army  worked  uncomplainingly  all 
day,  and  by  evening  we  had  the  necessary  supply  of  fuel. 

The  sun  lighted  up  the  island  as  we  stepped  on  board  the 

368 


24 


XTbe  Inland  Sea, 


sampan  of  the  English  Consul,  that  landed  us  at  the  European 
settlement.  Pretty  bungalows,  embowered  in  greenery — the 
homes  of  foreign  merehants — cling  to  the  steep  hillside ;  and 
on  a  conspicuous  point  the  Stars  and  Stripes  wave  above  the 
consulate.  A  short  distance  up  the  bay  is  the  point  where 
the  American  astronomers  observed  the  transit  of  Venus  in 
1874.  At  the  wharf  were  guides  and  kurumayas  galore, 
clamoring  for  business ,  and,  having  but  one  day  for  sightsee- 
ing, we  lost  no  time  in  securing  both. 

We  rode  along  the  water-front  past  consulates,  public 
buildings,  banks,  business  houses,  and  clubs  to  the  native 
town,  where  we  spent  a  few  hours  in  the  fascinating  curio- 
shops.  Silks,  embroidery,  tortoise-shell  and  fine  porcelain  to 
tempt  the  most  indifferent  were  lavishly  displayed.  I  pur- 
chased a  miniature  kuruma  made  of  tortoise-shell  that  lasted 
two  hours,  and  some  beautiful  designs  in  pottery  that  lasted 
longer.  We  also  visited  a  bazaar  that  occupies  the  old  prison- 
house  of  the  Hollanders.  By  steep  streets  and  stony  lanes  we 
reached  the  Shinto  temple  of  O'Suwa,  of  no  great  interest  aside 
from  the  huge  bronze  horse  that  adorns  the  courtyard  and  the 
extended  view  over  the  town  and  harbor  from  the  garden. 
An  atoshi  was  hired  for  each  little  carriage,  and  we  hastened 
on  to  Moji,  five  miles  distant  by  an  excellent  road,  celebrated 
for  its  fine  scenery;  the  hills  on  both  sides,  terraced  to  the 
summit,  are  planted  with  tea  and  rice.  Moji  is  a  wretched 
little  village,  charmingly  situated  on  the  seashore.  From  a 
point  beyond  we  had  a  grand  view  of  Shinabara  Gulf,  and 
lunched  at  a  tea-house  whose  balcony  overlooked  the  water. 

37i 


flu  Bamboo  Xante. 

Had  we  not  been  running  a  race  with  time,  a  walk  back  to 
town  would  have  been  more  to  our  taste  than  the  prosaic 
kuruma. 

We  first  made  short  visits  to  a  Buddhist  temple  and  a  res- 


A   BUDDHIST  TEMPLE. 


taurant  of  note ;  then  we  climbed  the  hills  where  oaks,  cam- 
phor-trees, and  bamboo  shaded  the  paths,  and  wild  flowers 
grew  in  profusion.  The  summits  are  covered  with  moss-grown 
gravestones. 

During  the  annual  "  Feast  of  the  Dead"  or  "  Festival  of 
Lanterns,"  fires  are  lighted  at  night  on  the  hill-slopes  and  the 


Uhe  IFnlanfc  Sea. 

cemeteries  are  brilliantly  illuminated  with  lanterns  and 
thronged  with  relatives  of  the  departed.  Special  devotions 
are  performed,  and  offerings  of  food  are  placed  before  the 
family  graves  for  the  benefit  of  deceased  friends  who  are  sup- 
posed to  return  to  earth  for  a  short  period.  Nagasaki  is 
noted  for  its  religious  festivals,  which  are  still  observed  with 
all  the  gorgeous  display  and  enthusiasm  of  ancient  times. 
The  Suwa  Festival,  the  most  magnificent  of  all,  is  held  in 
October.  As  I  did  not  see  it,  I  will  quote  from  Fischer,  who 
did:  "First  goes  an  immense  shapeless  mass  of  linen  carried 
on  a  bamboo  by  a  stalwart  man,  of  whom  nothing  can  be  seen 
but  his  feet.  Mighty  is  the  load  he  bears,  for  the  cloth  is  full 
twelve  ells  in  length  and  embroidered  throughout,  forming 
one  huge  canopy.  Then  come  banners  and  embroidered  orna- 
ments, covered  with  skilful  needlework,  representing  some 
renowned  man  or  celebrated  woman,  a  hill  covered  with  snow, 
the  instruments  of  various  trades,  or  scenes  from  ancient 
Japanese  history.  Next  follow  musicians,  playing  upon 
drums,  cymbols,  and  flutes,  strangely  attired  and  accompanied 
by  a  number  of  servants.  These  are  led  or  headed  by  the 
ottona,  the  chief  municipal  officer.  Then  appears  a  long  train 
of  children,  representing  some  expedition  of  one  of  their  mi- 
kados  or  demigods.  This  part  of  the  show  is  most  admirable ; 
clad  and  armed  like  the  warriors  of  former  times,  the  leaders 
march  gravely  along,  followed  by  the  representatives  of  an 
imperial  court,  male  and  female,  displaying  the  greatest  pomp 
and  luxury  and  surpassing  every  conception  of  dainty  beauty. 
Each  of  these  trains  is  attended  by  a  number  of  palanquins, 

375 


fin  Bamboo  Xanfcs* 


which  are  intended  for  any  of  the  children  who  may  become 
fatigued.  After  these  come  companies  of  actors;  every  now 
and  then  high  benches  of  equal  size  are  ranged  along  the 
road,  and  on  these  the  actors  perform  with  great  spirit  and 

emphatic  gesticulations.  Their 
actions  are  accompanied  by  the 
music  of  flutes  and  syamsen 
(shamisen).  When  this  is  over, 
a  crowd  of  miscellaneous  mu- 
sicians, palanquins,  servants, 
and  the  relatives  of  the  chil- 
dren follow,  and  this  closes 
one  train. " 

Madame  Chrysantheme  and 
the  cottage  where  she  resided 
with  her  French  husband  were 
not   en   evidence ;    but  Pierre 

WRESTLERS. 

Loti's  charming  sketch  made 
the  whole  environment  seem  strangely  familiar.  It  was 
just  twilight  when  we  arrived  on  board  with  the  crushed 
tortoise-shell — however,  we  did  not  mind  that  much!  At 
last  the  moment  of  departure  arrived,  and  we  bade  fare- 
well to  Japan — that  land  of  many  charms,  fairy  world  of 
inexhaustible  interest,  Eden  of  the  nineteenth  century. 
On  leaving  the  country,  I  realized  that  a  few  months 
spent  there  had  enabled  me  but  to  stumble  over  the  thresh- 
old; to  understand  her  institutions,  to  see  things  from  their 

point  of   view,  and  to  know  the  unique  workings  of  the 

376 


Zhc  flnlanfc  Sea. 


Asiatic  brain  would  require  a  long  residence  and  continuous 
study  for  years.  One  will  best  see  the  Orient  by  looking 
through  the  eyes  of  the  Oriental. 

We  sailed  away,  and  two  days  later  were  in  China. 

377 


GLOSSARY  OF  JAPANESE  WORDS. 


Amado,  outside  shutters  used  at  night. 
Arigato,  "Thank  you." 

Asarum,  a  plant  whose  leaf  is  the  crest  of  the  Tokugawa  family. 
Atoshi,  a  man  who  pushes  the  kuruma  from  behind. 

Buddhism,  a  religion  introduced  from  China  via  Korea  in  the  sixth  century. 

Cha-no-yu,  the  tea  ceremonies. 
Compradore,  an  agent  or  middleman. 

Daibutsu,  Great  Buddha. 

Daikon,  a  radish. 

Daimyo,  a  feudal  lord. 

Dai  Nippon,  Great  Japan. 

Dashi,  a  car  used  in  religious  festivals. 

Fusuma,  sliding  screens  covered  with  wall-paper. 
Futon,  a  bed-quilt. 

Geisha,  a  professional  player,  singer,  and  dancer. 

Geta,  wooden  clogs. 

Godown,  a  fire-proof  storehouse. 

Gohei,  an  emblem  of  Shintoism  used  in  temples. 

Harakiri,  suicide  performed  by  thrusting  a  sword  into  the  abdomen. 
Hata,  a  flag. 

Heimin,  the  common  people,  of  whom  there  are  38,000,000. 
Hibachi,  a  charcoal  brazier. 

lend,  the  name  of  a  tree  whose  leaves  turn  gold  in  autumn. 

Ihai,  funeral  tablet  bearing  the  "dead  name"  that  a  Buddhist  receives  to 

be  known  by  in  the  next  world. 
Ikura,  "How  much?" 

379 


(Blossarp  of  Japanese  Worfcs, 


Kago,  a  small  palanquin  used  in  travelling  and  borne  on  the  shoulders  of 

two  men. 
Kagura,  a  Shinto  dance. 
Kakemono,  a  hanging  scroll. 
Kami-dama,  a  Shinto  shrine-shelf. 
Kamiyo,  the  "dead  name"  of  a  Buddhist. 
Kimona,  a  loose,  long-sleeved  robe  worn  by  both  sexes. 
Keyaki,  Japanese  elm,  used  in  the  nave  of  temples. 
Kiku,  the  chrysanthemum. 
Kocho,  the  head  man  of  the  town. 

Koku,  about  five  bushels,  a  standard  measure  of  capacity. 
Ku,  a  city  ward. 

Kuruma,  a  jinrickisha  or  man-power  carriage. 
Kurumaya,  the  kuruma  runner. 

Kwazoku,  the  nobles,  about  four  thousand  in  number. 

Maro,  a  loin-cloth  six  inches  in  breadth. 

Mate,  "Stop  !" 

Matsuri,  a  religious  festival. 

Mon,  the  crest,  or  coat-of-arms. 

Mousme,  a  young  girl. 

No,  a  lyric  drama  patronized  by  the  nobility. 
Norimono,  a  palanquin  used  by  the  nobility. 

Obi,  a  sash  worn  by  women. 
Ohyo,  "Good  morning." 

Rin,  a  copper  coin  of  which  a  thousand  make  a  yen. 
Robiton,  a  bowl. 

Sake,  rice  beer,  containing  from  eleven  to  seventeen  per  cent,  of  alcohol. 
Sampan,  a  shore  boat. 

Samurai,  a  two-sworded  man,  a  retainer  of  a  feudal  lord. 

Satsu,  paper  money. 

Sayonara,  "Good-by." 

Sen,  a  cent,  a  hundredth  part  of  a  yen. 

Shinto,  the  indigenous  religion. 

Shinto  mirror,  an  emblem  of  the  Shinto  faith. 

Shizoku,  Samurai,  two-sworded  men,  of  whom  there  are  about  two  million. 
Shogun,  a  great  military  general,  or  Tycoon. 

380 


Glossary  ot  Japanese  MorDs, 


Shoji,  a  sliding  screen  covered  with  translucent  paper,  that  serves  as  a 
window. 

Soraban,  an  instrument  enclosing  rows  of  beads  sliding  on  thick  wires 
used  for  figuring. 

Tabako-bon,  a  tray  with  tire-pot  and  ash-pot  used  by  smokers. 
Tatami,  a  house-mat  made  of  rushes,  3  feet  by  6  feet  and  2^  inches  thick 
Tempo,  a  copper  coin  worth  about  eight  rin,  coined  a.d.  i 830-1 844. 
Tokonomo,  an  alcove. 

Tokugawa  dynasty,  beginning  with  Ieyasu  in  1603  and  ending  in  1867. 
Torii,  literally,  birds'  rest,  a  portal  before  the  entrance  to  a  Shinto  shrine. 

Waraji,  a  straw  sandal. 

Yadoya,  an  inn. 
Yashiki,  a  mansion. 
Yen,  a  Japanese  dollar. 

Zen,  a  lacquered  stand  six  inches  in  height,  a  dining-table  for  one  person. 

381 


